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Ford Explorer Engine and Diagnostics Problems



  • Hey there! Well after doing a lot of reading and just by knowing how much I drive my truck, I decided to clean out the intake. I just came back from good old Canadian Tire with a can of Throttle Body Cleanner. I did notice some gunk in the intake before-but never really thought anything about it at the time. Wish me luck-I will let yous know the results. ;)
  • Well I brought it to Midas and it needs new plugs and wires and a Thottle Intake Cleaning. The appointment for the truck is Friday-I will post how the Truck runs once the work is finished-Keeping my fingers crossed. :)
  • I'll bet youre trouble is either a cracked exhaust manifold or a manifold gasket. either problem is an easy fix if you're a do it yourselfer.... although the manifold will not be cheap. You'd be better to buy some shorty headers.. you'll gain performance and save money. That problem is common to Windsor motors (289, 302, 351) all throughout their life cycle.

    it's not a major problem... shouldn't damage anything.
  • heat55heat55 Posts: 1
    truck idles high(2k+)on start up then idles low and rough.just like vacume leak. replaced upper and lower intake gaskets,egr,pcv,tps,maf,iac,cleaned grounds.etc.i have no results with my motis($14000)or otc($7000)scan tools.acts like internal vacume leak but external gauge reads steady @ 19". any ideas would be great. thanks..
  • I'm now having the same problem with my '01 Sport Trac.
    OBD II has no power to it (pin 16)
    Did anyone find out what was wrong and how to repair it?

  • :sick: I recently bought a used 2001 Ford explorer sport. For the first month or so its been doing great, and only had a few minor problems that were fixed. About a week or so ago ive been having some problems with my transmission. For example.

    I would start it up fine, take it down the road and after about a min or so of driving it wouldnt go anymore. You could press the gas and rev it up all you wanted, but it wouldnt go anywhere. My dad and i really wouldnt like to buy a new/used transmission, and would love to know if anyone has any ideas about our problem.

    fyi, we checked the transmission fluid and it was actually above what was needed.
  • I'm finally getting around to fixing this just now. Question; I can easily get at all the manifold to engine head bolts by removing the wheel and plastic wind deflector, but I cannot get to the inside exhaust pipe bolt. The one of two that hold the exhaust pipe to the manifold. My question is, if I remove the bolt I can get at, will the bracket that holds the exhaust pipe to the manifold allow the exhaust pipe to drop enough that I can get at the second bolt?
  • i have a 94 explorer that went from a hard to start to a no start i hear the fuel pump when i turn the key on so i changed the EEC relay and pump relay also coilpack still wont start. i am on ssi so don't have a lot of money to spend on parts it is my only trans. and need it to get to Dr.appts. can anyone please tell me what to check next.
    Ed :sick:
  • cliffy94cliffy94 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Ford Explorer limited, V8 5.4 or 4.6 but its the big one? Only 65K miles and on last trip a moderate ticking noise from engine. Ford shop checked lifters and stated they were okay? Any ideas?
  • rmncoknmermncoknme Posts: 18
    I had a similar ticking noise on my 5.0L V8, 1999 Eddie Bauer (I also thought it was lifters, to the point of dis-assembling the oil cover and checking). Turned out to be an exhaust manifold leak. Had me going for a while, as it sounded really, really mechanical, not like the pfft pfft pfft I had expected of an exhaust leak. The gasket between the head and exhaust manifold had failed.
  • cliffy94cliffy94 Posts: 2
    That was checked and Ford shop did not think it was aleak. They called Ford and were told to replace the lifters on the passengers side...I have the 4.6 V8. Its for sure coming from the right side, and goes away when the engine warms up. It will come and go...crazy
  • I've been reading some of the horror stories regarding these Explorers. My neighbor has a ' 97 with the 4.0 engine and the thing sounds horrible when he starts it. His cousin did a tune up on it recently and when he told me this I wondered if a spark plug wire might be crossed. We checked this today(9/17/10)and if I'm reading the wiring order correctly, #1plug is on the passenger side(when I stand in FRONT of the vehicle) followed by #'s 2 and 3, and then #'s 4,5,and 6 are on the other side(Drivers). I switched 4 and 6 because it seemed to me that they may have been wrong, but apparently it was right, because after I changed them around the thing REALLY ran terrible and when he shifted into Drive, it stalled immediately. I'm wondering about 2 things: Could his timing chain have jumped a tooth, or could he have a bad coil pack? This guy and his wife just had a baby earlier this month and really don't have a lot of money to spend here on this SUV. I can get him a used coil pack at a local U Pull It salvage yard at a good price if we can find one of course. Is there a test proceedure for a coil pack? Any help anyone can give me on what to be looking for would be greatly appreciated ASAP. Thanks and have a Blessed day!
  • Just to follow up with my above issue with my neighbor's 97 Explorer, today(9/19) I had him start the engine and then I proceeded to test the coil by pulling out each of the 6 wires and observing the results, and I can say that there was spark at each coil. The engine backed off in RPM when I pulled out a wire and increased as I replaced it, so I will assume that the coil is good. Now I scanned his computer with my OBD2 reader and I got 4 codes, one for misfire at #5 cylinder and one for misfire at #6. There were also 2 codes for lean system Banks 1 and 2 respectively. I wanted to take compression readings next but I think he was afraid of what we might find out, so he told me not to do that. Now this thing idles OK, it's when you give it gas that in sounds like it has a miss. The odometer quit working at 140K and he estimates there to be at least 160K on the engine or more. So if there isn't a cylinder problem causing this "miss" where would you suggest we look next? Intake manifold gasket,perhaps? I KNOW this engine is running very rich, you can smell it, and I imagine he would be blowing through the gas if he chose to drive this vehicle every day, which he isn't. Again, I'd appreciate any info or heads-up anyone can provide. Thanks again!
  • Oxygen sensor would be my guess here, if you smell gas in the exhaust. With the lean codes, it means the computer is trying to make the motor run richer, to the point it is pushing as much fuel into the cylinders as it can. Perhaps over time this results in more carbon deposits in the cylinder as well, resulting in misfires (which would also explain any ping you may have). If the O2 sensors are still functioning but out of calibration, all of this could happen and yet there would not be a code for the O2 sensor. Intake manifold gasket leak sounds good if you smell the gas in the engine compartment, but if you smell it out the exhaust, then I don't think this possible leak is the cause.
  • Long time coming, but I replaced the exhaust manifold last year. There was a leak in the gasket, so you nailed it. Thanks for your help....
  • Thanks for your reply, rmncoknme, I will pass it on to my neighbor. I should point out though that after we did those few things this past Sunday, he seemed ready to take the vehicle to the scrapyard rather than to go on to other things. I think if he had let me do the compression test like I wanted to, we probably would have been able to determine what to do by those readings, but I guess he's just frustrated by the whole thing. All I can do is offer my help, the rest is up to him. Thanks again.
  • Have a 1996 Ford Explorer V6, automatic, 4 wheel drive, good car, but lately have
    problem of car feels like it is missing at speeds between 35-40 mph. Mechanic says he found on internet that problem is in the torque converter not catching up in the
    transmission. Says nothing can be done except replacing transmission! I would like to know if this is right or should I just live with it.


    Hugh :(
  • theheat13theheat13 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    ok i have a 99 5.0 v8 explorer and it runs grate when u first start it up and runs rill smooth but when it warms up it starts idling ruff and has a bad hesitation and doesn't rilly have eny power eny ideas should i try changing the cam sense or is it something els
  • sounds like a broke or cracked manifold
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    In fact, it is the manifold gasket. Widespread problem with these 5.0 engines from 97 to 2001. On the other hand, that 5.0 is flat indestructable. It'll run for 250,000 without breaking a sweat.
  • Hugh what did you find out about the torque converter
  • hello can anyone tell me where to finde the oil presure switch on a 02 explorer thanks a million
  • I had the same problem with a Buick. It ended up being the cam sensor. When it gets hot it expands causing it not to make contact. I could put cold water on the sesor and it would start right up. Just a thought. Try some cold water on the sensor.
  • ofdofd Posts: 1
    I used to like this vehicle. Started running rough @ @ 105000 mi. Though Idle smoothly. Then started using coolant, got worse. Took to Ford dealer, they could not find anything wrong. Continued driving it, Took it to a shop my company uses. They put all new spark plugs, ran good for 4 months, but check engine light stayed on. Started running rough again this past week. Ran Bad yesterday. Today I discovered water in the oil.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I was just going to say, you have a bad head gasket...... Classic symptoms. But very odd for that engine. The engine with that problem was the older 3.8L Essex engine. Yours (assuming it's the 4.0L) is the Cologne, Germany engine, as bullet proof as they come. Not comforting to you, I know. Sorry for your loss..... If you don't fix it really soon, it will hydrolock, and then you're on a tow truck.
  • 2005 Ford explorer with 52000 miles. Tune up completed within last 4 months. Loss of power on highway with service engine soon light. Spent a week at Mechanic with no findings other than sometimes misses on #2,6 cylinder. Removed neg on Batt to dismiss light. Continued to drive for 6 weeks with no problem. Tried starting one morning and got an aweful screatching sound like starter failure. Replaced starter and did not fix. Sounds exactly the same. Mechanic Neighbor suggests the timimg belt is broken and now looking at about $4k repair-----any help? Have not been to Ford yet---Too pissed.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    First of all, your neighbor mechanic is an idiot. This engine has a CHAIN, not a timing belt, and it's not broken. If he doesn't even know that, RUN!! Sounds like your starter drive, or flywheel has a few missing teeth and the starter isn't engaging to turn the engine. Find another (good) mechanic, you'll be able to fix it for way less than that.
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