Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Electrical and Computer Questions
Hello,
I have a 2000 4WD Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 V8 with 49,000 miles. Today when I was headed home from work I noticed that Service Engine Light was on. I headed to the auto parts store to use their scan tool. I pulled out code P0440 “Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction”
After a little research I found that it might have been caused by the fact the gas cap was not all the way tight. Is this true? Also will the MIL reset itself if the problem is gone?
What else could set a code P0440?
Thank you so much!
Jeb!
See Also
What Your Check Engine Light Is Telling You
I have a 2000 4WD Chevy Silverado with the 5.3 V8 with 49,000 miles. Today when I was headed home from work I noticed that Service Engine Light was on. I headed to the auto parts store to use their scan tool. I pulled out code P0440 “Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction”
After a little research I found that it might have been caused by the fact the gas cap was not all the way tight. Is this true? Also will the MIL reset itself if the problem is gone?
What else could set a code P0440?
Thank you so much!
Jeb!
See Also
What Your Check Engine Light Is Telling You
0
Comments
And this is kinda an ASAP thing too .. thanks ...
Everything works fine except when I'm using cruise and doing about 55 and I reach a small hill, the tach jumps to twice the RPMs as the transmission shifts, then the RPMs abruptly drop to normal again. The tach is always in the safe zone.
The dealer said (without driving the truck) that this was normal, but it's kinda annoying. Is there a problem?
Recently, my 2k Silverado 4.8L has been dificult to start when it's hot. I suspected my EGR valve so I disconnected it to see but got the service engine light on now. I know it's not the EGR now but the light stays on.
I remember my dealer telling me once how to reset this but I forgot. Could anyone help?
Thanks
Your RPMs do increase when the transmission downshifts but not as much as the tach would indicate. Any sensitive electronic meter will do that given a sudden change in input. It's called overshoot. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
Now I'll have to see why it's so hard to start when the engine is warmed up.
Thanks again!
1)MAF or VAF A ckt range/perf
2) MAF or VAF A ckt low input
3)IAT Sensor 1 circuit High Input
4) Manf Cntrl Veh. Spd
Idle Speed Control
Auxiliary Inputs
I have checked visually for any loose connections or vacuum hose issues.
Can anyone sugest how to isolate the problem to the root cause???
Thanks
I would check the MAF and the IAT sensor. Either one can cause all the others but I lean more toward the IAT sensor.
In regards to my previous posts, I have had my truck serviced and it turns out that the Fuel Regulator was causing a poor engine start up (when the engine is warm).
Just sharing the knowledge...cheers!
Same failure one year later on vacation out of state. Radio quit, go to local dealer tell him to check VIN in the system. Order same part. He thinks I'm nuts. Next day truck dead, but radio plays. Replaced blower control and on my way.
I can understand a shorted resistor causing a power drain on the battery, but why would it have an affect on the radio then restore it's operation.
I'm Stumped!
I have the same code on my 03 Suburban, and I know it is not the gas cap, I have replaced it, and cleared the code, but it came back.
Thanks for any info, Catam.
In a few more days, I plan to do battle with the Chrevolet dealership after I get a little more ammunition. I found one case almost identical to mine on another forum site, so if I do find out anything it will be posted!
problem with.
A few days ago I was driving and noticed the battery light come on and
the volts gauge was reading around 10 -11volts. I turned off all
accessories and headed her for home.
Once home I took the battery (delco factory) to Canadian tire for them
to test it. It tested ""replace". So I did with a new 875cca terminator
battery. When I installed the new battery the truck started fine but I
noticed the battery warning light was still on. I let it run for 20min
or so to see if it would charge. (or what ever was wrong might
magically fix itself) The light didnt go out so I tried some of the
accessories to put a load on it. The wipers and blower motor ran but
noticeably slowly.
I just decided to let the truck run with all accessories off. The
battery light didn't go out so after running for 1/2 hour or so I shut
off the truck and the the battery now shows 11.7V across the terminals.
I charged the battery back up to show 12.6V across the terminals.
Then I started the truck and checked the voltage across the terminals
with the truck running (no access on at all)......11.3V....What
the.....and the bleeping battery warning light is still on.
I tried revving the truck to 2000-2200 rpm (no access on at all) and
the voltage across the battery went up to 11.49 at one point but it
also fluctuated down to 11.27 also....
Does this sound like a new alternater to go along with my new
battery???? What are the odd that both the battery and alternator would
crap on the same day???
PS. I have never had another issue with this truck until this
good luck
and might have gone a little to hard because it was night and i under estimated the whole but it wasnt bad at all. Well i hit the whole and bounce twice and everything just goes out lights radio every thing i was wondering if anyone new what this was, about 1 min later it turned right back on and cranked like a chevy does quick and easy and drives fine. I would appriciate some feed back, thanks.
I replaced the alternator, Code came back.
Jumped a wire directly from the ecu to the generator, for the voltage signal, cause I tought It could be short somewhere. The code still came back. Does anyone have experience with that perticular code?
Thanks for the reply.
Gene
Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do to fix it?
Thanks
Chris
Easier than guessing on which fuse !