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Matrix Electrical/Lighting Problems & Solutions
Having an issue with the electrical system or lighting on your Matrix? This is the place to ask for help and offer solutions!
Anyway, has anyone gone into this area of the center console. I see a screw on the shift knob, but how do I remove the cover to get at the bulb, which I assume is at the base of the shift lever.
(The Dell Latitude D820 which I am typing this from is about 5 amps. As a general rule, any electronic device can be used with the plug. It is the devices with major motors or heater elements that may draw too much current, such as electric drills, electric heaters, possibly a small vacuum might be too much, also).
You should take care when plugging in your phone charger outlet. Note on the male plug, where the side metal contacts are. Look in the female plug, and see where the metal sides are continuous. You want to put the plug straight in so that the metal contacts on the male plug, make clear straight contact down the side. Push it straight in, and don't twist it while putting it in. What generally happens is the male plug shorts out the contacts if it is loose enough, and twisted around.
I have a 2005 Matrix XR 4WD (39K miles on it), and few weeks ago, the air-bag warning light came on. I parked the car on the side street and turned off the engine. I waited few minutes, then when I re-start the engine, the light disapperaed. But, today, while I was driving, the air-bag light came on again and it won't go away. Is this something that I should be really worry about? If anyone experienced a similar situation, would you please share your thoughts? Thank You
You say the alternator is good, how do you know that? You need to have it checked under load, and any of the autoparts chains can do that for you for you, usually free. This is actually a combination battery and alternator test.
If they check out, then you will need to measure the amperage draw on your battery when everything is off. If you find amperage draining, then you'll most likely need to get an electrical schematic to figure out how to start methodically unplugging fuses to find the culprit circuit.
You can check with the dealer to be sure, but I think the airbags are covered under a longer warranty than the bumper to bumper, so it is likely any needed repairs would be free.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
1. Close all doors with engine switched to "ON".
2. Shift lever to Park or Neutral, then hold the driver's door lock switch (on the arm of the driver door) in the door's lock position for 5 seconds.
3. When the setting or canceling operation is complete, all doors are locked and then unlocked.
Otherwise, your Toyota dealer can complete this function.
Ah, I would suggest that not parking in such a parking lot where "young men" circle the lot is the best prevention. The more direct route of assaulting the driver extricating themself from the vehicle, is more effective then vaulting over rear seats through unlocked back doors. Should they enter the back seat, pull out the keys and leave, thus immobiling the vehicle. Then press the panic button on the key remote to signal for assistance.Then run for safety. May the safest and secure driving follow you.
I tried those steps already and still it doesn't change. So, I tried contacting Toyota's chat line, that was a bust. Called the dealer and he said they could do it in seconds, we shall see.
Anyone with any thoughts on this?
Just remember, the 09's is the #12 blue wire, not red. Thanks goes to this website for your help and especially to 2 great Toyota service techs at the local dealership here who took the time to research and solve my issue on a Pontiac Vibe.
Note: 2009 Matrix, Vibe and Corolla are all located in the same location, behind the glove box
My wife's 2006 XR (with 71K miles on it ) has the original battery which displays a green indicator for good battery yet the car will not start and once jumped runs for about 10 seconds then dies. The belt has about 3/4 on an inch of play at it's longest reachable testing point is that too much play? Any feedback is welcome...
I thought it was the alternator so I exchanged it for a new one. Now the car will run without dying but i hear a whine that fluctuates with the RPM'S. The vehicle will not start without a jump so I was planning on getting a new battery tomorrow.
Once I put in the new alternator the light comes on erratically but the car does not die. Is the battery low on charge or dying?
Have driven a few cars with tire pressure systems..... If temp falls from 60 F down to -10 F I'd have to check them otherwise nada. The temp range in FL at this time of year shouldn't be an issue.
Makes notes on conditions when the warnings are coming on. If it continues sounds like a system fault.
Okay so I thought...
Well a few weeks ago I went somewhere and turned the car off. When I tried to start it again after a few minutes of it being off, it would not start...no noise like it trying to start, just a tiny hum if even that. The dashlights and dome light are all bright and do not dim when attempting to start. I waited about 10 or 15 minutes and eventually it started. Went home, turned it off and tried again and sure enough...would not start. waited for a bit and went out, started right up.
Had the mechanic that replaced the starter check it and he said the connections are all fine and the starter is good. Drove the car for a bit after that and have had no problems. Yesterday it started acting funny again.
The only common thing I can think of is that this seems to happen when I turn it off after a good drive. I work about an hour away from home and had to pick my wife up yesterday and since the car was running for an hour, it was naturally hot. Turned it off to wait for her to come out and after 5 minutes of it cooling, it was still pretty hot and would not start. I let it sit for another 5 and tried..nothing. Again, no noise or dimming of lights. Popped the hood and looked around, nothing out of the ordinary that I can see...no corrosion of the battery terminal, nothing.
Kept the hood open and waited for another 15 minutes and tried it and it tried to turn over but stalled. Waited another minute and it started right up.
Got home, turned it off...no start.
I am at work now and went outside, started right up, but it has been off for a couple hours. Turned it off after running for a minute or two, started right up again. Did this a few times.
At lunch I have to run somewhere that is about a half hour away and will turn it off and try to start it again to see what happens.
With battery +&- attached, battery dies overnight.
With - disconnected, battery holds for work day but not overnight every time I test.
With +&- disconnected, battery holds overnight.
Good starts with jumps.
Everything is OFF when ignition off.
How do I diagnose further?
And I am sure all doors and trunk are closed.
This happens on more uneven roads. Highway is fine.
Any help ?