Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Liberty CRD Diesel Real World MPG

steverstever Posts: 52,683
How's your gas... er, diesel mileage? Please include tidbits about your driving style, additives, odometer reading, etc.

If you stumbled in here but own a gas Liberty, please post your mpg over in that discussion.

Jeep Liberty: MPG - Real World Numbers


Steve, Host


  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    So you want real world FE numbers. Well here goes.

    So far I have not quite 11K miles on my 2005 CRD Limited.

    If I do 75% city and 25% highway, then I average about 18.9 MPG.

    If I do a 50/50 blend, then it climbs to 21.6 MPG.

    If I do a long highway trip and keep the speed around 63 mph, then 30.5 to 31.2 MPG is not uncommon.

    Driving style is mostly laid back. I let the world go by and kill itself. I like to push it a little on country roads but the Liberty not being a "tossable" vehicle kind of limits that. I usually stay around or just a touch over the speed limit around town, but will not exceed 65 mph on the highway.
  • bmartinpebmartinpe Posts: 51
    Generally we see 20-21.5 mpg in mixed driving on our 05/2005 build Liberty CRD. I am on my fourth EGR valve on this diesel engine. Once we got as much as 25 mpg on a trip to NC from Middle Tennessee, but the fuel economy dropped back to about 21.5 on the way home. I have never had a 30 mpg tank! I have been using Amsoil Cetane Boost and Fuel Modifier, and now am using Power Service (one-fourth bottle to a tank).
  • julie10julie10 Posts: 6
    I have had my CRD since August 2005 (Love it by the way!). I have almost 12,000 miles on. I drive probably 65% freeway at about 70 mph and 35% city driving about 35 to 40 mph and get an average of 22 mpg. The worst tank I ever got was 18 mpg. My best was just recently on a trip traveling with cruise set the first hour and a half of travel at about 74 mph and then 2 hours with cruise set on 63 or so and I got 27 mpg...that was my best ever. Hope there's more of that to come!
  • ecramanecraman Posts: 25
    March 2005 - 31,000 miles

    25-27 mpg all of the time, mostly highway with some bumper to bumper. A/C on all of the time. When not in bumper to bumper on I78 average 70 mph.
  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    At 23,500 miles:

    Overall mileage since new is 24.59 mpg. Data indicates that mileage may have improved .5 to 1 mpg since new. Best fill-up was 32.8 mpg (tail wind) and worst was 17.9 (all town). Mix of driving is maybe 52% highway. It's difficult to sort that out because some of the town mileage is 45 mph with no stop lights and some is bumper-to-bumper.

    I have been experimenting with Cetane number improver on the last 4 or 5 tanks and cannot sort out any difference in mileage, performance or sound of engine. Unfortunately, my egr valve stuck closed on the 3rd tank with the additive.

    I drive 5 mph over the speed limit in town and 65 mph on the highway which may be 5 under or 5 over depending on posted speed limit.
  • olegrizzolegrizz Posts: 7
    Only about 2,500 miles on my 2005. Only had it a month and a half so far. Very laid back driver, kind most hate I guess, not in a hurry to get anywhere most of the time. Normally not over 5 miles over speed limit ever. 65% highway and 35% city normally. Getting about 23 to 24 mpg. Have not took a real trip with it yet but on little 45 minute runs on the highway see (when reset the trip monitor) from 30 to 32 mpg running around 60 mph. Does seem to run better with bio-diesel b5
  • 29232923 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Liberty crd Limited. I kept it in my garage for a year, 2800 miles in fourteen months. I then added a righthand drive controls to use it on a rural mail carrier route. The route is 92 miles and 246 stop and starts six days a week. Route is all gravel, 50% gentle hill 50% flatland Nebraska, total time for engine to run is 4.5 hrs. per day. MPG Normal driving 17.9 MPG Kicking Turbo in every chance I get 16.5. Numbers may not sound impressive to most but I am happy since I have been used to 11 to 12 driving 3800 buick and Olds on the same route for the last 11 to 12 years. The 3800 V6 was rated 30 MPG highway.
  • I have a 2005 Liberty CRD. Crossed the country getting 23mpg regardless of how I drove. 18 mpg in the winter with 4wd. Now I'm lucky to break 20mpg. 16,000 miles on it and it just barfed it's egr valve. Dealer wants $89.00 every time they look at me even though it's still under its' useless warrenty. Egr parts will be available in two months. Diesel is going for $3.16 a gallon here and likely to go up more. Regular unleaded is going for $3.00 a gallon.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    We bought our Liberty Sport CRD Sept. 29 2005. We have 17,700 miles on it. Lowest has been 20. mpg best has been 23.5 mpg. We use full time 4x4 everytime we go some where. Our road is 5/8 of a mile of dirt gravel, ruts, sharp rocks, and a steep hill. We have never gone on a trip. All our miles are within 120 miles of home. Most people in economy vehicles don't get this good. We live in Lake of The Ozarks., and there is lost of slow downs and stop and going. I was expecting to get 24 mpg, but I found some on the forum may tend to over state or guess a little high.
    Most problems that the CRD have, are related to Tec's not knowing what procedures to follow in reparing things. For instance when the EGR goes bad the PCM must be replaced as well. Very few Tec's knew this and just replaced the EGR, sometimes as many as 4 times! This sort of thing makes buyers lose faith and become convinced what they bought was poor quality, which the CRD is not. If considering a CRD be smart be wise buy a Chrysler Extended Service Contract. Diesels are long lasting, but parts are heavy duty just as the engine is, thus the cost is a lot. A diesel pump is $2007. + labor. Those who use Bio Diesel above B-5 are asking for real trouble, even though they think it runs fine. Some people just won't listen, and when the CRD fails because they did their own thing, then it is all Jeep's fault. Sorry I do not agree. I would say buy one but follow the Owners Manual. Very simple, and easy.

  • Did I not understand correctly that you use biodiesel yourself, Farout ?
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Why do you keep in full time 4x4. That is not needed when on paved roads? Just shift into 2wd high. Your MPGs will definitly improve. You should be averaging at least 25+ MPG's.
  • derbs24derbs24 Posts: 17
    Purchased Nov '05, currently has 28,XXX miles. Best ever was 27.25mpg(cool spring weather) and worst was 21.85(Cold winter week).
    Tried different additives, found them all to be a waste of money(unless it's real cold and you NEED it) with no gain or loss.
    EGR replaced at 22K, no big deal, dealer did a great job. 15 ppm ULSD should help come October.
    Love this little Jeep!!! Can't wait to get a Grand Cherokee with the new Benz diesel!
  • tailgatetailgate Posts: 32
    I have 13,500 on my 05. These are summer time measurements with the a/c running most the time. Best: 28.5 Worse: 21.5. Running great, owned it for 1500 Inferno Red miles now. Even with the high cost of fuel, I still struggling to keep from hopping in the CRD, with nowhere to go :shades:

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    thstranger: The only Bio fuel I have knowingly used was what was left in the tank when I got it after my dealer swapped it for my CRD. I can see no reason not to use B-2 or B-5. We just do not have any Bio fuel where we live.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    goodcrd: We only use fulltime when on our 1/2 mile road that goes to our house. I have the select transfer case because when it rains or anytime I feel the need for the fulltime I use it. The command does not allow it's use on dry roads. I feel this fulltime is as important as the ABS. I seldom have more than 2% of a tank of diesel. I consider 22 mpg better than the mileage sticker said 21 to 26 mpg. The best we have gotten so far has been 26.1 mpg and that was on WalMart diesel!

  • abbzer0abbzer0 Posts: 3
    Just picked up my new 06 CRD this past weekend. Had a 600 mile drive home. With agressive driving, I averaged 27 MPG freeway the drive back. Man, I sure do love this thing. :)
  • stbstb Posts: 31
    16,600 miles since Sept 05 low 19 avg 21-22 best 23
  • rjsjrjsj Posts: 5
    Before I begin, first when checking mileage figures make sure your odometer is correct. I have tested 3 new Liberty CRDs, including mine, and the odometer is NOT correct on any of them. Use a good GPS unit to verify. I use 2 Garmin C330 units.

    On mine, a 2006 CRD, if my odometer shows 100 miles, the GPS shows 106.6 miles. The second vehicle showed 100 miles w/ GPS at 105.2 miles and the third showed 100 miles w/ GPS at 104.7 miles. (on all 3 the OvHC show the same as the odometer did).

    After adjusting the mileage to GPS mileage I am getting on the average highway trip (Savannah GA to Knoxville TN) 30.6 MPG at 65 MPH, no AC and using Cruise Control. (65 on the GPS which equals 69 on my speedometer). I am using regular dino fuel. (Enmark, Hess and Flying-J)

    The best trip was 33.1 MPG, the worst was 27.6 using A/C.
    In town, I usually get about 23-25 MPG on average with A/C, and in a city with heavy stop and go traffic about 19 - 21 MPG with A/C.

    A recent trip to Grand Canyon AZ from Savannah GA averaged 29.8 MPG at 60 - 70 MPH (a 4360 mile trip, 65 most of the way, some head - side wind and a lot of rain).

    My CRD has 10,564 miles on it, every thing is stock. Best mileage seems to be at 37-38 PSI in tires, 60-65 MPH. A/C seems to pull 1.5 - 2.0 MPG, 1 window down and no A/C looses about 1 MPG and sunroof part way slid open looses about .5 MPG with 1 window cracked about 3 inches (like for smoking).

    I consistently get 8 - 13 MPG better than my 1996 Grand Cherokee Limited did, with a 318 CID and a K&N filter.

    I tried a K&N filter on the CRD for 400 miles, and lost about 2-3 MPG, plus I began to see oil & dust in the intake, so I would not recommend a K&N oil style filter for the CRD, (but do recommend them for the gas engines). Oil and/or dust in a diesel intake is a big no-no! I switched back to stock filters!

    Also have noted only a .5 - 1.0 MPG loss using full time 4 wheel drive, which is a lot less reduction than I expected. My testing on this vehicle has been extensive, all hand calculated using GPS as stated above. If anyone is getting poor MPG figures, I would first suggest checking your actual mileage using GPS before accepting the low numbers.

    As far as qualifications on my tests, I was a mileage tester for the IVAP unit testing Hydrogen Fuel Cells in the 70-80's as well as a fuel cell developer.

    I have talked to several factory service reps and they have admitted the odometer is usually reporting on the low side, if it is off any. They have no fix for the three I tested as the encoding software show correctly for the tire size.

    Something that really helps MPG on diesels is to coast rather than hard breaking and to let off some on the accelerator as the torque increases. Follow the torque curve. Example, as the speed increases from a stop to about 30 mph, start letting off slightly as the engine gains RPM (speed). Above 2,000 RPM is beginning to waste fuel. Keep letting off a little more until your desired speed is reached. It takes a little practice at first, but soon it will feel natural and a very fluid motion with the torque curve will become second nature. This can then be applied to your particular driving style, with positive results.

    I hope this helps some having low figures, as well as people considering the CRD, as the CRD does have several big advantages over the gas versions.

    I am amazed with the off road capabilities the Liberty displays. A fantastic go anywhere vehicle! :D
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    rjsj: I appreciate your very detailed information on the CRD's.
    However, I have personally experienced that the speedometer can be corrected. I put on 245 70 16 tires, that were off by a small amount. I called the 1800 992 1997 number and asked about adjusting the tired with the speedometer, I was referred to the dealer. They measured the outside circumfrance, and them made the correction required. The cost was $30. and took about 1/2 hour. The speed is accurate according to the State Trooper which used the radar to check it for me. I have a 2005 CRD if that makes any difference.

  • rjsjrjsj Posts: 5
    Maybe I was not clear, sorry.. I never meant to say the speedometer could not be changed for different tire sizes, I meant to say the tire size on the vehicle matches the software encoded, so no further fix is available. Yes, when changing sizes, they can re program for speedo adjustments, but in the cases I posted, these are the stock tires, the speedo re programed with the same results. Chrysler did re-program mine also, with nothing changing. I'm still am off as I mentioned in the post. All I am saying is to use a GPS to check your accuracy on the odometer if you are having low mileage readings first, just in case your CRD has the same issue as the ones I have checked. Not all the CRD odometers are off, but in low MPG readings, some may find my situation to really be the cause, and MPG may not be as bad as these folks feared.

    When I played with the dealers system, (yes, I am a retired diesel cert. master mech as well) I did notice the only adjustment calibrations I could change was based on tire size, not tire measurements. Perhaps your dealer has a different system I am not aware of. If that is the case, I would love to know, as I could insist mine and the others tested and be re programed using it instead.

    Until then, on my CRD, I just have to add 6.9 miles per 100, and the MPG will come out accurate, or base it on the GPS with the same results.

    Even with this small problem, I still love this vehicle. :D
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    rjsj: Were you a DCX tec? In you experience as a diesel mech what do you like best about the V M Motori? What do you think is the weakest thing in the engine? What do you think is the service that we need be really on top of? Also with the ULSD that is out, at least in some places here, is said to cause more varnish around the injestors, and some kind of oring issues and a lubercation is lacking and we need to use an additive to help lubercate. My problem is what additive do we buy, and what's it called (what's the brand name)? Thank you for your help.

  • rjsjrjsj Posts: 5
    Yes, cert for Chry, Chev, Mecury Marine, Ford, Volvo Penta, M-Benz, Deere, Cat and Cummings. Was a DCX and independent tech / service rep.

    The VM Motori engine has been used in the CRD (Europe)for over 5 years with few problems. It basically is a very strong engine with a solid reputation. The weakest link is it uses a timing belt instead of a chain, :cry: so I would say that is the most important drawback - so for service I would replace sightly less than RSI of 100,000 miles for sure, like at 80,000 - 95,000 miles as a rule. :D

    And of course, the biggest service mistake, running too long between oil changes. Using 0 - 40 Mobile-1 or equivalent, I would do a full change at least every 5000 - 6,500 miles, not at 12,000 as many do. (at 4,000 miles if used in severe duty, like pulling 4,500 lbs or more for extended times, or for extreme off road use). Don't skimp on this or on oil quality! I do not run nor believe in any oil additives. Changing oil regularly is enough.

    The sulfer reduction from 500 ppm to 15 ppm does indeed reduce the lubrication qualities, but fuel manufactures do add a lubricant additive to ULSD to help replace that loss.

    The big problem is in the USA fuel itself and with low volume dealers. There are currently no set in stone standards, as with octane in gasoline. So there is a lot of quality differences in "blends" as well as ratings. US diesel in most parts of the country is very "dirty". (mold, water contamination, bacteria, etc., particularly with low volume dealers)

    For this reason, I would run a fuel additive, such as Power Service (cetane boost - grey bottle) or better yet, use what I use, which is "Stanadyne". (harder to find and more expensive, but better than PS in my mindset). I use 4-8 oz per 18 - 20 gals. Both will increase or insure a cetane rating of 45 - 50, which is considered ideal. Both add more lubricates and help to protect the injectors and pump system from fuel damage caused by contaminates like mold and trace amounts of water. I, like some, do get a little better MPG, at least enough to cover the cost.

    Another high lubricant fuel is B-5, but water, lack of quality standards and bacteria can adversely affect it too.

    Other suggestions, always fuel from dealers who sell a lot of diesel, as they will usually have less mold / bacteria and if possible, use B-5, as it lubricates very well, better than sulfer did.
    Also replace the water separator / filter as per RSI, not just waiting until the light comes on.

    Hope this helps and answered your questions. :D
  • Our 2005 Liberty CRD has 13,000 miles on it and generally gets 26 mpg on the highway and about 22 in mixed driving.

    I bought a 275 gallon tank and now have B99 biodiesel delivered to my home in Washington State. A couple of weeks ago we drove our 2005 Liberty from Sequim, Washington to the southern Oregon border on I-5 and got 29.5 mpg. That was filled with B99 and driving at 70.

    Last week my son and I went to California's eastern High Sierra Mountains and took a rugged dirt and rock road 25 miles into the back country, to an altitude of 10,000 feet. The Liberty took the pounding without a complaint and 14.5 miles to the gallon seemed pretty good, given that we could only go about 5 mph most of the way.

    A few months ago, we loaded the Jeep with family goods, hitched a 16' car hauler on the back, loaded the trailer with an Alfa Romeo GTV (also filled with family goods) and headed up to Washington State. We were close to the Jeep's 5000 lb max load. The trip was 950 miles long and crossed two major mountain ranges. We got an even 20 mpg.

    I'm glad we now have a local source for biodiesel. It appears to me that low-sulfur diesel knocks about 2 mpg off my normal mileage.

    Some of the Jeep's ergonomic features could use work, like getting the driver's seat low enough that a 6-footer doesn't look at the sun visor instead of traffic signals, and providing better foot space for passengers. But, all in all, we're happy with the Jeep.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Sequimgary: I am glad to hear that you CRD is doing so good. We have a 05 and have just 20,000 miles on it. Ours is a June 05 build date. Just as passing on some important information go to the Jeep Liberty diesel forum, then go to post #7715. There is a web address That I got from V M Motori some time ago. Hope this is helpful and meaningful.

  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    rjsj: Thanks for the reply, and a lengthy at that. Now if I can stretch my luck and ask a few more questions?
    My last oil change I used Shell Rotella 5-40w Syn. For me finding Mobile 1 0-4w was next to finding a hens tooth. The tec. information looked better than Mobile 1.
    I have been on a 7,500 mile schedule for oil changes. Is this about right or too long? I don't tow but only a 1,500 10 box trailer twice a year for maybe 200 miles total.
    I have read that anything higher than B-5 is not good to use, because lack of consistency and the injestors and pump will not tolerate long term use due to wax build up and plugging lines and other issues. See post #7715 in the Liberty Diesel Forum for very serious warnings from many parts dealers that make parts for the VM CRD.
    I have planed on changing the water/sep filter at 25,000 miles, and I have had the Tec check to see if any water was in the filter twice so far, and there was no water yet.
    What, with good maintanence, would be reasonable to expect this engine to archive as far as total miles. I have a 1996 Dodge Neon with the original engine with 191,000 miles, so I do take good care of my vehicles.
    I tried PS, both kinds, and it did nothing compared to the way it ran before I put these in the fuel tank. Should we expect to notice any change?
    I appreciate your response and input.

  • rjsjrjsj Posts: 5
    Shell Rotella should work OK. 7500 miles per change should be fine as long as there is no adverse driving. Remember the most adverse type of driving will produce more soot, sludge and particulates, such as excessive short distance driving (10 - 15 miles), excessive cold weather starts, full time city driving (stop and go or excessive idling), heavy towing and a lot of serious off road driving. So if your style of driving consists as above, then I would suggest 5,000 mile changes. Otherwise 7,500 is fine. As far as specs, don't rely on them. It usually is hype! Also, 5-40 w may see a small drop in MPG over 0-40 w.

    If you want to keep the CRD for a long period of time, I would NOT use anything higher than B-10. Most all Biodiesel has problems with lack of consistency, as does Dino. Remember there are no sets of standards governing Biodiesel or Dino at this time. I know many use B-25 - B-100 with no problems yet, and many may never have any, but if problems do develop, they will be very expensive. A fuel rail system replacement can run 2,000.00 - 5,000.00 dollars (depending on items being replaced). DCX will not replace anything fuel related under warranty using higher than B-5. B-5 flow properties are close to that of Dino. Higher ratios will be thicker and will cause higher demands on the injectors and H/P systems. Next generation rail systems will be modified to handle higher ratios of Bio. Your call on that one.

    Good to hear no water yet, keep using your fuel dealer. 25,000 miles on W/S sounds about right.

    With precise service, and reasonable driving, no over-revs, or extremely adverse driving (long term) the 2.8 should out live the suspension by 2 or more times. In other terms, I would expect upwards of 350,000 - 450,000 on the engine or more. Many in the Europe area have reported 400,000 or more.

    As far as the fuel additive, I do not use for better running engine or for the fuel mileage improvement, but rather to lubricate the fuel system and to help with the other problems of US diesel fuel. Some people do notice slight quieting of the engine when cold and a smoother engine when warm, but some notice no change. Most do report a slight increase in mileage, say about .5 - 2.5 MPG. Thats enough to almost pay for the additive. B-5 or B-10 will also smooth the engine, although most report a slight decrease in MPG, as Bio does not have as much thermal energy.

    I think some may begin to get mad at our off the subject forum, as this forum is for real numbers, not general questions. I hope I have not offended anyone. If so, buy a Toyota, cause Jeep people can take anything! (it's a joke people).
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    rjsj: Believe it or not what you have said is almost exactally what I have been saying. This is especially true for higher oil weights of 15-40. In a nine page e-mail from V M Motori, the letter was signed by several component makers of injectors, pumps, and major fuel related parts that anything above B-5 voids the warranty. I am not sure how they can find out if it was above b-5, but I assume they have some way.
    I have only used Bio fuel 1 time that I am sure of, and that was because I was nearly out of fuel (faulty fuel gage) just dropped to "E" and the light went on and I sure did not want to learn how to prime this dude. So I put in B-20, oh how I wish I did not have to do that. I felt it ran not too well. The power drop was noticeable to me, anyway.
    I drive pretty normal for an "old as dirt grampa" as my grand kids say. I very seldom go over 70 mph and at the speed limit on two lane roads.
    This Liberty has been so good and reliable, we bought a gas Liberty Sport for our daughter. With the rebate and all the huge discounts we got 25% off the msrp. I think that's the best I have ever got before.
    Thanks again for your information.


  • Hi rjsj:

    I just purchased a BRAND new 2006 CRD. I have 170miles. I filled it with abt 80 miles on it, so I'm into my 1st tank by arnd 90miles. My guage is at the 1st mark below the F. I'm so glad to see "real world" figures. My wifes been reading other reviews by searching and she was not impressed. She just got a VW Jetta TDI and we see 43-48 MGP consistently. We traded in a Pacifica due to it's feeding habit of 89 of which she gave us only 19MPG. Last trip 21.1mpg. However, this is abt the new guy, my CRD. I'll let u know what I get on the first tank. I'm using Lucas Diesel add w/Amsoil Cetane Boost. I've also read where some have report like 15mpg-20mpg with highway driving. Can't for the life of me figure that one out. Must be all UPHILL. Gary :)
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    beetlemn73:Welcome to the forum! May I suggest you visit the "Diesel Liberty" forum. There is a wider scope of topics and more posts are made there as well, easier to get responses too.
    You may well get 18 to 22mpg for the first 10,000 miles. I have an 05 Sport with 21,400 miles on it. our mpg went up at about 16,000 miles. We got about 20 mpg, and slowly got better. We have not gone on a trip but on a 1 and 1/2 hour jaunt we get 26.4mpg. Driving around the lake we get 22 to 24mpg.
    You really should not need to use any additives. The owners manual does not suggest it. I have tried both the Cetane booster and the anti gel and it made only one difference. My wallet had less money in it.
    May I suggest a few things. Do not use Bio fuel above B-5. There are no consistent Bio fuels above B-5, the fuel waxes up your injectors, and fuel pump. Also, do not go above 10-40w synthetic oil. I use Shell Rotella 5-40w, it's hard to find Mobile 0-40w and 5-40w in our area. Rotella is a higher rated oil than Mobile 0-40 or 5-40. The best thing you can do is follow the owners manual.
    The Liberty CRD;s stopped production in May 06. There were a total of 11,000 Liberty CRD's made. 8,333 were made in 05, the rest were made as 06 CRD's. We like our CRD a lot. However everyone who bought a CRD was really a part of a "test market" DCX knew that the CRD would not be made after 2006 because the emission standards were to expensive to achieve and make the Liberty CRD affordable.
    The GoodYear ST tires are the poorest tire you can have on your CRD. We have 2 Liberty's. an05 CRD and an 06 3.7 gas. I got ride of the tires as fast as it took my ordered tires to come in. I put on 245 70 15 T GoodYear Silent Armor tires on. Excellent tires in all conditions, and very stable, quiet anf smooth. I gave my GoodYear dealer my ST tires and $380. The tires are $189. ea. list. wholesale price is $155.ea Any tire is better than the ST tire.
    I hope something in my post is helpful.

  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    (I had mistakenly posted this info on a wrong forum)

    These values were taken when refueling using the trip mileage counter and are already averaged per type of driving condition:
    - 4WD at 7500ft altitude 18L%KM ~~13 USmpg (this one is less accurate)
    - heavy rain/snow 12.5L%KM ==19 USmpg
    - local city traffic 11.3L%KM ==21 USmpg
    - interstate 80mph 10.23L%KM ==23 USmpg
    - mixed / commuting 10L%KM ==23.5 USmpg
    - interstate 70mph 9.46L%KM ==25 USmpg

    My "global" average mileage is now 22.5 USmpg after 3 years and 52,000 miles. This comes to almost 12,500 USD worth of diesel fuel over here.
Sign In or Register to comment.