2011 Equinox Stalling P 0010 code?

capecodbeachfrontcapecodbeachfront Member Posts: 13
edited March 2019 in Chevrolet
Valve position code.... 0010 My GM dealer wants $100 to read the code... Will not offer an estimate for the repair until they have my $100. would not even say if it was SAFE to drive. Local auto parts store said the part was around $60. I am sure GM will want double that.... What should I expect the final cost to run.... $200? $300? $500? From my research I know this is a common problem with 2011 2.4l Equinox models. Right now the Check Engine light is off... Will there be a code? Or should I wait for the engine light to be on before going to the dealer? thanks.....


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    One common cause of this fault code is engine sludge, so it wouldn't hurt for you to change the oil and filter. Sometimes the valve actuator solenoid can be removed and its filter screen cleaned. If during that procedure, excessive oil sludge is seen throughout the engine, then you have a much bigger problem.

    Other possibilities are defective wiring, a bad ECM, or worn timing chain. A good technician with a professional-grade scan tool should be able to narrow down the problem without replacing parts unnecessarily.
  • capecodbeachfrontcapecodbeachfront Member Posts: 13
    Just had an oil change done well under 1000 miles ago. Car only gets 4000 to 5000 miles on it a year. If there is no Check Engine light on will there still be codes? Should I wait for the Engine light to reappear?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    How does the car run--still stalling? So the light went off by itself?
  • capecodbeachfrontcapecodbeachfront Member Posts: 13
    I think it got reset when auto parts store read the code for me. But it had been stalling randomly for a month before engine light came on.  So any codes are gone correct? Do not want to get the old "we found nothing" response. Pay us $100 and come back if it stalls .... 
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,668
    edited March 2019

    I think it got reset when auto parts store read the code for me.

    And people wonder what is wrong with having parts stores do code pulls.....

    But it had been stalling randomly for a month before engine light came on.  So any codes are gone correct? Do not want to get the old "we found nothing" response. Pay us $100 and come back if it stalls .... 

    The $100 isn't to just pull the code. Pulling codes isn't diagnostics it's only one step of the process. The regulars here have seen me say this many times. A trouble code doesn't tell you what part is bad, it tells you what test failed. Parts stores got into the game of pulling codes because it helped them sell parts whether they were needed or not.

    A P0010 is Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Circuit. So first off it is an electrical failure of the actuator solenoid circuit. (which of course includes but is not limited to the solenoid)

    The test runs like this. The solenoid get's its power from the PCM pink/black wire pin 39 of connector 3. The ground side of the circuit is the brown wire pin 59 of connector 3. When the PCM puts power to the solenoid, it should see current flowing when it is on, and see the voltage high at pin 39 and low at pin 59. The code means that isn't happening and its then up to the person attempting to diagnose the problem to prove why.

    Here is one possible failure. The resistance of the solenoid should be 20 ohms. If the resistance is too low,(say 5 ohms or less) too much currrent tries to flow so the control circuit inside the PCM shuts the circuit off. That results in the voltage at pin 39 being low when it should be high and you have a pending trouble code set and with a second test failure the check engine light comes on. (type B code)
  • capecodbeachfrontcapecodbeachfront Member Posts: 13
    After a nights sleep I am in a better frame of mind. You are correct, Diagnostics should be more than checking the codes. BUT in my defense when you Google "2011 Equinox stalling" you get a ton (or more) of responses all very similar. In fact some date back to a 11195A service bulletin pointing to similar issue. It was the service writer's bedside manner that upset me most. "Pay $100 and we will tell you what is behind curtain #1. No clues allowed."
    So should I wait for the Check Engine light to come on, not read or reset, then make my appointment. Or make appointment maybe a week from now and cancel if there is no Check Engine Light? Just saying it stalls occasionally I doubt will get me much of a diagnosis. The service writer had no interest in my Auto parts store Code. Basically said it would be ignored. So without a 'code' to read I am afraid I would waste the appointment?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,932
    edited March 2019
    Since you seem to have an attitude toward that dealer, I can suggest you have two options.

    One is go to another dealer. Indeed a Buick dealer has the same abilities as your Chevrolet dealer, or you can go to another Chevrolet store.

    Two is that you can go to an independent mechanic. Those vary from backyard guys who got enough together to rent a location and open the door for car work to the quality independent who has diagnostic tools much like what your dealer might use for a typical car AND knows how to use and also knows when it's out of his arena and needs to go to a dealer shop.

    I doubt the quality independent mechanic is going to work on the vehicle much for free. They might attach a code reader tool and see if the code is stored, but you're not going to get free work there either.

    Perhaps a third option is to guess at which part it might be based on the info so far, and buy the part, AC Delco in my house local or rockauto.com, and replace it yourself if it is readily accessible. That's what some folks have been able to on some vehicles. Depends on skillset.

    So paying the individual mechanic to diagnose beyond the code and replace or paying the dealer to do a diagnosis. are two options which should give "no guess" repairs.

    If you want to learn more, there are videos showing R&R for intake and or exhaust actuators. Use at your own risk.



    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • capecodbeachfrontcapecodbeachfront Member Posts: 13
    Thank you. The video shows how easy it could be BUT I am not that brave. Fingers crossed the dealer does not turn this into a 'it could be this or it could be this' adventure. My guess... the 10 minute video I just watched turns into a 3 hour labor job.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 26,932
    edited March 2019
    A high quality after market mechanic would likely do the job cheaper than the dealer. The mechanic will make profit from the part as well as a labor charge--that's capitalism. The dealer, another dealer since this one seems to have a "carside manner" that's irritating, will have a flat rate but will install an AC Delco part.

    I included the video because if someone does some work around their car and is comfortable with how the taking off the plastic beauty cover works on their engine this can be a do it yourself job. Many on the Malibu forums have replaced the intake and exhaust actuators when they throw a code, some from defects or failures, some from clogging due to poor oil hygiene, in my opinion.

    The hardest part is likely removing the clip that holds the electrical connection onto the intake valve cam actuator. Those sometimes are hard to figure out how the safety lock has to be worked to release the clip to be able to remove it. They are secured to prevent coming undone in normal use.

    Some video people take time to explain how the rear of the plastic cover is undone, for instance, some don't. Some video makers explain and show how the safety clip on that particular electrical connection is undone.

    Good luck.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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