my 94 buick wants to idle at maximum once the engine starts. we have replaced the air idle control solenoid and the o2 sensor. the throttle body has been cleaned of carbon and the throttle plate doesn't stick like it did. Is there a map sensor on this car. thanks for you help.
I'd recommend not throwing parts at it until you have it diagnosed for codes. I believe you may be able to do that with the underdash ASDL. But 94 may be the year they changed and a reader is needed. See if Autozone will be able to read them free for you.
I've heard this problem mentioned in other discussions but can't recall the types of outcomes they had.
Hey all. I'm new here and currently own a 1995 Buick LeSabre. Unfortunately recently I have had numerous issues with it and have had many parts replaced, including the battery, alternator (twice), serpentine belt, and a relay for my cooling fan. My car now runs thankfully, since the alternator had been bad, but I'm still having issues with the car cutting out on me. Usually I have to start the car about 6 or 7 times before it'll stay running, allowing me to put it in reverse or drive. Any idea what could be causing the engine to die on me when I put it in drive or reverse? Also it'll cut out on me if I simply let off the gas. I was told that it could be a vacuum hose leak or a fuel filter/fuel line problem. Thanks for any information you can give me
You need to give some mileage numbers and maintenance history. It could be fuel filter, it could be carboned up air intake leading from air filter to the intake manifold where the butterfly valve is, it could be crankshaft sensor or camshaft sensor that tells the computer where the motor is in relation to ignition firing. Always think simplest first.
Were the battery cables inspected throroughly including the double connector on the positive terminal, if it has one? They can corrode from acid down into the copper cable; the ends can appear okay but you find the actual cable corroding away inside the plastic coating. Check the ends of all grounds and positive wires at the other ends. Loosen and retighten.
Plugs? AC and within last 60K miles? Book recommended type? Wires? OEM quality NAPA, Belden, Delco? Not something in red box with dragons on it from box store? within last 60K?
I have a 1991 Lesabre with about 210k miles on it. When initially accelerating from a stop, the car makes a loud clanking noise which comes from the left rear area. It's hard to descirbe, but it sort of sounds like dragging a chain across concrete. It only occurs briefly and goes away past 15-20 mph. Any information on this would be great. Thanks.
My windows are slow coming up. I usually have to pull up the one on the passenger side to get it moving. Everyne says the motors a are bad, but I think it's DIRT. What do you think? How do I get the door panels off to look at them and clean them? The car has 168K miles, but mostly has been well cared for. doubledog
Has anyone else had a problem with the wheels rusting?
My car is a 2004 celebration edition, has 16" chrome wheels. Was made in late May 2004. Now just 2 years old the front wheels are covered in rust. I'd thought that brake dust was covering them, but on closer inspection, no, it's rust.
Now you know why I am looking at the 2007 Toyota Camry. I think Toyota could even pull #1 in Sales this year ?? Done with Buick and 'maybe' General Motors (like a Whole Lot of Others). The quality just isn't there but it is with the Toyota.
The paint on my 2000 Lesabre is starting to bubble from underneath. The paint hasn't cracked or broken yet. ( It had on the last car I had). Is there a recall for this or how do I contact some one about this. Thanks, susieskunk
Help! I have a 93 LeSabre 4 door, V6 Automatic. Recently while I had the AC running, the blower began to become intermittent and even though it was on high speed, it would modulate between speeds and or completely shut off for a time. I took it to a local shop and they told me the codes read that the freon was low and that caused a sensor to turn off the blower and lock to the "econ setting". He convinced me that it would require a retrofit and new type of refrigerant. A couple hours later they called and said the code read the temp control module in the dash was bad. I purchased a used one from a wrecking yard and had the same problem. I took it to a Buick dealer and was told by the shop mechanic after an inspection that these type of problems are difficult to trace and can cost thousands to eventually locate and repair. He told me it was again low on refrigerant and to take it back to the first place as it was guaranteed not to leak. Once back at shop #1, they checked and said it was a little low and filled it back up but could not find a leak even with dye in the system. It worked great for a day then the same problem happened and the blower only works intermittently or not at all. Again shop #1 checked and said there was no leak and the refrigerant was not low. The codes were clear and indicated no problems even though there is. Since it is fall, the AC ceased to be much of a concern and the need for a heater is now the focus but, that does not even work. If all else fails, can I bypass the control, and hot wire the heater? Suggestions?
I'm guessing that you had automatic temperature control with a digital readout for setting the temperature?
If I'm right, your mechanic should have check the blower control module that's in the housing near the blower motor on the firewall under the hood. The blower control module does what the resistors do on a standard blower setup only it's electronic giving more speeds. Follow the power line from the blower motor to the unit, about 4 in x 1 in x 6 inches. It goes into the air path inside the housing endwise and the air stream cools it.
They typically fail and the blower won't shut off even with the key off. Sometimes they give strange speeds on the blower with erratic changes. That's what ours did. I believe they're available at Advance Auto parts, the chain store and of course recycling yards.
Hi. I also have a 2000 and the paint on mine is bubbling at the lip of the hood and deck. I have been told that this is due to the fact that the hood and deck are aluminum, and this is the aluminum reacting to the paint over time. I don't think their is any recall, but the good news is that aluminum corrosion does not rot through nearly as fast as steel, and is easier to repair. I'm not a mechanic or body guy, but stripping, priming and repainting the area should practically fix it for good. After 1 1/2 years of owning my car, there is no new bibbling since i bought it and only 1 small chip of paint has come off, so it doesn't even seem to be too urgent of a problem (ie, replacing the panel or completely refinishing it). Hope this helps.
Several discussions have been created to address the various issues you may be experiencing. Please go to Buick LeSabre page to find a discussion that fits your question/concern. If nothing fits, please create your own discussion.
Comments
thanks for you help.
I've heard this problem mentioned in other discussions but can't recall the types of outcomes they had.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Were the battery cables inspected throroughly including the double connector on the positive terminal, if it has one? They can corrode from acid down into the copper cable; the ends can appear okay but you find the actual cable corroding away inside the plastic coating. Check the ends of all grounds and positive wires at the other ends. Loosen and retighten.
Plugs? AC and within last 60K miles? Book recommended type?
Wires? OEM quality NAPA, Belden, Delco? Not something in red box with dragons on it from box store? within last 60K?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
doubledog
Has anyone else had a problem with the wheels rusting?
My car is a 2004 celebration edition, has 16" chrome wheels. Was made in late May 2004. Now just 2 years old the front wheels are covered in rust. I'd thought that brake dust was covering them, but on closer inspection, no, it's rust.
I'm wondering if this is covered by warrenty.
I think Toyota could even pull #1 in Sales this year ??
Done with Buick and 'maybe' General Motors (like a Whole Lot of Others). The quality just isn't there but it is with the Toyota.
susieskunk
If I'm right, your mechanic should have check the blower control module that's in the housing near the blower motor on the firewall under the hood. The blower control module does what the resistors do on a standard blower setup only it's electronic giving more speeds. Follow the power line from the blower motor to the unit, about 4 in x 1 in x 6 inches. It goes into the air path inside the housing endwise and the air stream cools it.
They typically fail and the blower won't shut off even with the key off. Sometimes they give strange speeds on the blower with erratic changes. That's what ours did. I believe they're available at Advance Auto parts, the chain store and of course recycling yards.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,