Kia Sedona Brakes
Stop here to talk about Kia Sedona brake problems.
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I have seen where a number of people that have the Alloy Wheels have reported that the pretty metal cover over the lug nuts traps water inside the hub cap until it seeps into the wheel bearing space and rusts out the rear wheel bearings resulting in catastrophic failure. Of course before they failed they may have made a ticking sound like you describe. My car has the steel road wheels and so is not effected. Mine has 78K on it and is working great.
I wonder if you have a bad spot now on the Metal Axle shaft itself?
If you know how to remove the wheel and the hub you can investigate yourself on saturday.
Never turn rotors on front wheel drive cars.
It is a total waste of money.
Buy new ones.
I put new pads on the original rotors at 35K miles.
My rotors are still good. I checked them last week.
I would say you got bad rotors and they made them worse. Also if you have a caliper that is set in or out it will cause problems on the rotors.
Most mechanics will run a flat file on the Caliper slides to clear out rust and give you a good slide back and forth.
I think you have a poor mechanic at the dealer. Also these Kia guys normally just replace everything. My wife's car had a small brake problem at 30K miles and they replaced everything.
The only time Rotors warp is a bad rotor ( it happens ) a bad grip on the rotor ( from the Caliper ) or bad driving ( the driver speeds up and slows down real fast ( my wife borrowed my car for a trip. When she came up the street she drove it like she's dives her Spectra, when she stop next to me I could FEEL the heat coming off those brakes. The kind of use will warp a rotor.)
We know that once you WARP a piece of metal it will always try to go back to that warped shape.
Your plan is sound- buy NEW third party rotors and get some life out of them for a change. When you remove the calipers use a flat file to remove the rust from the slides, and then using a tissue with a small dab of never seize on it , work that into the porosity of the metal when the rust was.
That helps the caliper to move better inboard and outboard , during braking.
The pads brakes should last about 30,000 miles of moderate highway driving.
City Driving- reduce that to 10,000 since City people are different from country people.
plus your car weighs 4700 pounds.
If you want to reduce the brake interval do your own front brakes and put on pads and rotors at the same time and you will have better luck.
you can also upgrade to the ceramic pads and the drilled brake rotors, i saw them for this car on sale.
If you have paid $ 80 for 5 brake jobs you already paid for the difference in price.
On another subj -- Has anyone found a replacement for KIA Auto Trans fluid?
Boxwrench
I am currently looking for new rotors NOT from kia. My thinking is that the rotors they are using are causing most of my/our problems with the brakes.
I am going to call R1 Concepts and find out if they have rotors for the Sedona. I think they sell pads too. I wonder if we can get SUV pads so that they don't wear as quick.
Anyway, when I was in last week about the breaks, the service advisor heard the noise (which was there since 700 miles and complained about monthly) and said he would change the rotors and pads and everything should be corrected. THEN, he advised I would have to pay $129.99 for the break inspection and then between $500.00 and $600.00 for the correct repairs !!!!!! I asked why I had to pay and he said because the breaks are now OUT OF WARRANTY. I advised him that Kia has checked them at least 6 times in the last year and they kept telling me that everything is normal. Now,with only 7,400 miles and 90 days out of warranty they will only repair for the bucks. Sounds like a damn good scam Kia has going for themselves. This can only add support to my Lemon Law case. I feel sorry for anyone who is having problems with Kia, they are rip offs.
There are lots of synthetic engine oils out there that can go 15,000 miles between changes with filter. Yet Kia's warranty conditions specifically demand oil changes at 3000 miles for "severe use" vehicles, and if you read the terms, you'll find every V-6 is a "severe use" vehicle. They make no allowance for synthetics.
I think the synthetics are better for the vehicle. I have no doubt you can go a long time between changes. I think there are probably better quality transmission fluids than Kia's. And Kia certainly does not refine their own transmission fluid - somebody makes it for them. But the point I'm making is that Kia is reknown for backing out of warranties any way they can, and using anything other than the specified fluid is a dandy way to let them out without even squirming. Be careful. (See my post #1178)
Same thing with "non-Kia" parts for the brakes. We had the rotors warp at under 5000 miles on our 05 Sedona. No ABS. They just are NOT designed for the weight and stresses of this vehicle. They are the same parts as on the sedans and probably marginal for them. The dealer tried ours when we took it in and agreed they were bad. Rotors were turned (perfectly acceptable repair for me - I do it all the time on all my vehicles) and pads replaced. Been fine for the last 10K and I'm happy with the service.
But if I ever have a problem with them again I will swap to after-market "performance" rotors and pads and do the work myself. Hang the warranty. I realize the warranty at least on the brakes will likely be voided. (see my post #1175)
Might add that the brake problem and the much-reported fuel pressure sensor warning code are our only problems so far. (The fuel pressure warning is due to a faulty vent valve in the EGR and is well-known.) Dealer handled both okay in my mind. I can't fault our dealer.
I also am getting to really like this van the more I live with it. It's my wife's car and I get it very seldom - driving long shifts on long trips. I think it's ALMOST as good as my very old Aerostar which was spectacular at its job. (Still have it at 174K and the 4L V-6 has never been opened!) I can drive it for ten hours and not be stressed out too much.
Two months ago the Sedona got just a shade over 20mpg from mid-west to Florida and back, around 2000 miles total, with a heavy passenger and luggage load at an average 75 mph out on I-75 and I-65. (Combined weight would be well over 5000 lbs.) 500 miles of it in Florida in mixed highway/city driving at very high daily temps. I love how well this van's air conditioner handles bringing down the huge interior to comfortable levels in a very short time.
For sure it swallows up a whole BIG pile of luggage and gear with ease. May be the most "space efficient" vehicle I've ever packed. And again - the stretch Aerostar is a tough act to follow.
For the money - even for more money if it worked out that way - this is a heck of a good vehicle for us so far.
2.) I have also got a Spectra and the Kia Dealer warranted the entire rear brakes for us at 30K miles, the wheel cylinders, shoes and drums and the cables ! My other dealer warranted the parking brake cables on my van. I have not had trouble getting warranty support from Kia on either of our 2002 cars.
3.) I got a complete warranty/upgrade on my Vans electrical system at 50K miles , when they decided to improve the electrical output as the battery tended to drain. This again was free. In contrast on my new FORD TAURUS I bought 3 batteries and three alternators at my expense, and one tow job, due to a bad wiring design on the taurus. But they have a short warranty so you get hammered on that.
Brake people : Definitely buy new rotors and pads and get on living. Buy a third party brand and try them out. Pepboys sells Raybestos or Wagner and they are good brands.
Lemon Law people- push for a solution. Sadly your dealers are not helping you.
On balance I have had better results with Kia than I did with either my Ford , My chrysler , or my General Motors Fleet of 6 Chevy Luminas I bought !!
they all had major brake failure at 50K miles and GM made me pay full shot or $700 to do the brakes. AND they had a special part that only they offered and the Monro shop had to buy it from them at $ 140 per set.
So go get some Rotors and pads for $ 150 total and enjoy better braking tomorrow !
Took it to Tire Plus and they called a local Kia dealer and talked to the parts department. They told him that the sedona is too heavy for these pads/rotors, and it is a known problem but one they are unwilling to address to the public.
My old parts were still in good shape , but old.
My rotors looked great, but they were getting thin and now with new pads and rotors I have a solid pedal. I also tightened up the rear shoes a little bit.
I am very happy with my brake wear. I do not have ABS.
My van is a 2002 and perhaps I was just lucky or they had a good rotor back then. Now the new 2007 has 4 wheel disc brake. I think I like my 2002 better. I took off the rear brake drum and it looks like NEW so I am not going to replace those. My shoes pere 50 % worn down. I think I will do the shoes so I can ignore them another 80K miles.
NOTE to ALL- The front pads have a pair of stainless steel caliber slides one on top edge and one on bottom. If you do nothave these installed on the replacement pads there could be problems with ticking sounds and noises. they a clearly visibile on the bottom and top of the pads.
FYI.
The previous service manager also talked about the 05 Sedona having many brake problems. Said they were redesigned for the 06 model. Gave us instructions on how to drive and use brakes. Also told us that they are having the same problems in cities with stop and go traffic.
I personally know 2 other people with the exact same make and model and they are BOTH going through the lemon / buyback deals from KIA.
Why won't KIA just fess upa nd admit they screwed up and fix these things the right way. Do
they not want to tarnish the new 06 reputation?
This thing is a lemon :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
PLEASE write back if you are having similar problems... I want to compose a list of people for the attorney.....
The 05 Sedona brakes are not strong enough for the vehicle weight.
Don't be.
If your car stops when you put on the brake
don't worry.you have brakes.
As far as the squawking etc.
Go ahead and prove to your self if you have brakes.
Find a safe level spot where you can use the car jack to remove one of the front wheels.
Take off the wheel and look at the front brake rotor
yourself.
The front brakes do 80 % of your braking work.
If the rotor is shiney and smooth with no obvious ridges and grooves you have brakes.
There is a clamping device called a CALIPER riding over the
front portion of the brake rotor.
If that has some dark gray materials that are rubbing
on the shiney surface, those are your BRAKE PADS.
You can look at these parts in online car parts
websites , even see the ones that fit your car.
www.rockauto.com , pepboys etc all have sites with photos
of pads and calipers.
If your pads are working the car slows down and the pads
heat up and the rotor heats up as the motion gets turned to friction.
There is a normal about of noise from pads and it varies with the PAD , the ROTOR and the way you apply the brake.
I can create nasty noise by slowing down normally and then gently releasing the brakes just enough to get the squawk going. The kids hate it. But the brakes are fine.
The harder the pad material the better is squawks and the longer it lasts. So brakes that can squawk are often better to high speed ( interstate ) and mountain driving.
Volvos can do this really well.
If you are a city dweller and do not need the longer brake life you can generally assume that the $ 15 pads are softer than the $45 pads and buy the cheap pads and install those.
The hardest pads are the ceramics. I have not tried those yet.
I have been using the $ 30 pads and I get about 40,000 miles on those.
Personal driving style effects the life as well as where you live, mountains versus flat lands.
I live in the flat lands.
If you can learn how to put your own pads in or find an independent garage that will just change out pads you can start figuring out what pads you prefer. They are easy to install and most car buffs will try more than one brand to find one they like.
No one says you have to run them till they are metal to metal before you replace them. I found on my Sedona I can swap pads and not have to turn the rotors at all.
I just put on new rotors at 80,000 miles for the first time. My old rotors were still good but I felt it was time.
I got my parts at ADVANCED AUTO and they had a good price and a good quality part.
When you change the rotors or the rear drums there are some small phillips head screws that need to come out. I suggest buying some new ones before you start , at the KIA DEALER , they are less than a $ 1 each and they make the job easier. If the old one is rusty you can damage it when you take it out and then still have a brand new one to replace it.
Good luck.
Learn more about brakes so you can drive with less fear.
I have spent hours on here trying to figure out how to adjust the rear brakes. Can someone please help me?! Thanks in advance!
..how many miles do you have on your sedona??? Please check with your dealership if you're still under warranty because you should NOT repeat NOT be paying for these brake repairs out of pocket! We have an'03 EX that has been fantastic, except for the brakes when we first bought the van. They squeaked repeatedly, and got louder. The dealership installed all new brakes---rotors, pads,etc. at no cost to us. It totally fixed the problem. What I've advised people to do is to google 'sedona brake problems' and print out some of the posts you find and take it to the dealership with you! Couldn't hurt! Good luck!
Has anyone else had this problem or know what it is? I had Kia look at it. They said they adjusted the pads but that didn't fix the problem.
Any idea on how we can all make our complaints known?
Thanks!
Laura1853
:lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
Laura1853
Their service dept can't seem to keep our phone number on file (they never return calls), but for some reason they have no problem sending several sales ads each week wanting us to buy a new Kia!!! :mad: Best of luck to you other Kia owners!
Thanks,
Laura :lemon:
1) Requesnt that the lugs be tightening with a torque wrench. Most mechanices use impact wrenches which tighten beyond factory specs and also uneven torque amounts. Since the rotor is sandwhiched between the wheel and hub sometimes percieved "warping" issues arise the from unequal torque amounts. You also normally noticed the pulsing after wheels are removed and reinstalled again (ie. tire rotation) since the uneven torqueing is occuring differnetly now. Lugs should ALWAYS be torqued to factory specs (for most other cars it's between 75-90 ft/lbs)
2) Put GOOD aftermarket pads on your car. If Kia isn't paying for them anyway, get some decent pads. Often times, just running the same rotors that are percieved to be warped with new pads eliminates the problem. It's a big myth that rotors warp. 99% of the time, it's the pulsing is caused by uneven pad distribution to the rotor, creating different coefficients of friction and a "pulsing" sensation is felt under braking. Getting the right pads will eliminate this problem and prevent it from coming back. I'm new the Kia world, but do a little research and find some good replacement pads and you won't have to battle your service managers on your brakes again!
fyi..Even with #2, you still need #1 because the uneven pad distribution is caused by unequal torquing.
And for you myth busters, here's a link to brake rotor warping: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml