Okay everybody, I know this is a girlie kind of post, but some of you may not have discovered this wonderful feature of the H3 yet!
I thought this was worth noting since I see several female drivers of H3's! After having a few cars that would only allow you to carry a little travel package of tissues, I'm pleased to report that in the H3's center console under the shallow tray that lifts out, a full sized cube style Boutique box of Kleenex fits perfectly! There's still plenty of room for a few of those other things you might want in the center console! The shallow tray even goes back where it belongs without sticking up!
You see, it's the little things like this that make the H3 Nice to Own!
Edmunds was the first place I joined when we bought a Previa. It's meant to be family friendly - the Hosts have slapped my hand a couple of times. It's condemned on the net as having a bunch of idiots posting misinformation (that's everywhere and what is right is what is right in the mind of the individual, even though most people agree that 2 + 2 = 4).
I read two other forums. One post has the shallow tray mentioned above by better_half as being discontinued. Other items of interest:
Some may experience engine head problems (and it seems GM goes out of their way to keep you happy) but supposedly H3 motors built after March 31, 2006 have stronger valve train. Not concerned.
Chatter about failing heater cores. Not concerned.
Mention of a front differential? on the IFS going bad and clunking especially when rock crawling and using 4low. No mention if rear e locker engaged. Something about bushings?. Other IFS's with aluminum differentials split their case and warranty is denied by that brands parent company. Not concerned.
Big concerns now are getting a shorter antenna so it doesn't hit going in and out of the garage, and need a new ball mount to bridge the big gap from receiver to the trailer.
Hello! Please help me! I have Hummer H3. I am from Russia and we have not official dealers of Hummer. But I need information about Hummer H3 wheel alignment for do this service in Russia. Please help! Send it to my e-mail.
I just ordered one myself and can't wait to climb in and play with everything... you are right, the little things count. Thanks for the tip. Does anyone have one with the navi system? How does it do w/ DVD's? I got the luxury level and am wondering about the little things now, like is it w/ the single CD or 6 CD changer, etc. Should be talking to the dealer before long, but I would like to know what owners have to say.
After 17000 Miles My service light came on. Took the H3 to the dealer. Engine running a little rough at idle. Found out that valve seat was a problem. They are replacing the Head on my engine. The dealership said they are not trying to repair the head on the H3 but replacing it.
Thanks for the calm post. Other h3 forums have lots on this issue. It seems motors built before 4/1/2006 (and a given vin number) may be involved. Real design change or implementation of qc on just in time parts? Again, from other forums, one way for others who only read here, to check the date of their motors is on a sticker on the valve cover facing the firewall. Our motor has a 4/21/2006 build date and we feel for others, but the general is on top of this unlike the pain caused by dcx and the crd we used to own.
I'm planning to get a new truck or SUV in the next 4-6 months and the H3 is on my list. I wonder how is the reliability and if you'd get another one if the current truck would be lost/stolen/totaled etc. I'm especially interested in hearing from owners who had their H3 for at least a year or more. I'm aware it's not that quick and has poor gas mileage but we can live with that.
The new '08 H3 Alpha with a 5.3 V8 won't change the poor fuel consumption, but it should improve performance and eliminate the cylinder head issue of the five cylinder.
Brake problem-While stopping at a red light after driving down a hill the brake pedal drifted to the floor. The vehicle did stop to a point but it kept moving slightly. My wife drove the H3 to my office just a short distance away.My son drove the car around a parking lot and experienced the same. About 4 hours I drove the car home(15 miles) on highway, stop and go, down hills and there was not a problem with the brakes. I had my service man check out the H3 and after a bit of driving he to found that coming to a stop down an incline the brake pedal drifter to the floor. He felt that ther may be a problem with the master cylinder or the hydrolics as the brake fluid level was fine. Hummer towed the H3 to the nearest dealer about an hour and a half away. They received the car on Thursday and to date they have not been able to find any problem. The H3 was pruchased Nov 2005 and has 13300 miles on it. Any suggestions
Read about this before and just checked that forum, air in the system. Understand your concern, our ford conversion vans would do that at times sitting at a light and would cause us to shift into neutral and get ready to apply the e-brake. Research back then talked about replacing the master cylinder with a better one from a ford truck.
And one of our vans had a squeal (2 years)that most of the ntx dealers "could not duplicate". b-h and myself, with the engine cover off, found it coming from the abs unit and paid yet another dealer to bleed the system including the abs with the magic box with the toggle switches.
Saw that you joined and got the same answer (master cylinder) that was given before. Did you go back to 01/07 and see the last response from that poster about air. Either way, hope you get the answer on Monday and report back here also.
Where is your next post? With the last call I made to dcx to check on crd title release (stories about these issues with dcx from dcx loyal fans) to the Hummer dealer, the dcx financing arm employee answered the phone with "It's no bummer we don't sell Hummer". He got an earful from me and said no more. "bummerhummer" brought that back.
Been to slippery subject and bitog. Patman wouldn't use 5w30 or 5w40 mobil 1. The last change was from 5w30 t&suv to reg 5w30 mobil 1. Better. Has anybody (who can change their own oil) switched from mobil 1 to p platinum (not platinum weird) and can relate the difference if any?
Never bought a smooth intake tube to replace original factory. Bought one K&N sealed from the factory, took out a ford maf sensor. Know someone using a K&N on an old chevy ss with supposedly no problems. Assume you want a tube to go with a new filter. Like syn fiber no oil needed dry filters but will stay factory with B_H's H3. The following site has been linked by many.
Could mobil be using euro profits to subsidize oil for us. Didn't the last demo pres try to get the euro from ~ eighty cents plus up to parity of one to one with the dollar. I think last year? my post to a european about we've spent our treasury and therefore our goods would be cheaper(implied) was probably wrong. Even gm uses good managers to move millions on a daily basis. If memory isn't failing - decades back didn't importers like gstoyota do the same.
Well discussed everywhere. Do what you want. But unless games are going to be played with octane numbers (see cetane anguish) 87 is just fine for our pocketbook and we don't need to make carbon to lubricate our pistons/valves/rings.
Got tired of the time and gas going to the very few pepboys we have here to be told, paraphrasing; i think we had some 5w30 pp, our computer shows ten bottles of rl si 1, and truck came in this morning but i can't find any.
Called redline about dealers and lack of fi cleaner. RL said they could be shipped directly even though si 1 not on the website. Dave also told me the distributor is just down the road in roanoke. Called him. Went there. Bought a whole case of si 1 and a case of sm 5w30 red line. Good bye pepboys and it has been fun at the slippery subject and bitog. Long oci and more time away from the computer.
:confuse: I did a test drive for 2007 H3. Found that there is some issue with brake and accelerator pedal. While driving it shakes or wobbles (as if it's loose or something like that). Dealer says it's a known problem and GM has a replacement part for that. My question is: is it really true ? Is this a known issue or has anyone experienced this ?
My car started doing that recently...it doesn't do it all the time...it seems like when I drive it for longer period of time, it starts doing that, also the tire pressure monitor signals from time to time, but I don't know why. I had the tires checked and everything seems to be fine.
O'Reilly's oil promotion runs 9/26-10/30/2007. Stopped in this afternoon, bought a case of synthetic oil and was given a rebate for purchase price refund. Went on line to O'Reilly and started the rebate procedure-paperwork going in tomorrow.
My Driver Information alerts me to 'Service 4WD'. After checking the owner's manual, it merely states 'Check fluid levels' for axles & transfer cases. Done, but the warning light still comes on periodically. Is there something else that needs attention ?
For those not needing off roading reservoir shocks, saw bilstein part number of F4-BE5-E672-H0 for front shocks for $121 (did I really see that) vs monroe reflex locally for $71. Looks like a call to bilstein on monday since dealers called today had no clue. And what about the rears, bilstein.
A Hummer can be towed with all four tires on the pavement by selecting Neutral in the transfer case settings. To do this, hold down the 4HI button and 4LOW Lock button at the same time for 10 seconds. This will put your transfer case into neutral and allow you to tow the vehicle. It will also not rack up miles on the odometer in this mode.
my 08 alpha has given me more problems than I can count. my latest, it runs 3/4 hot on the temperature gauge and the service dept says "Thats normal". Seriously? Anyone else with this issue? How normal is this?
Yes...this brake/accelerator/steering knocking is a known issue. Bought an 08 H3...started happening at 5K miles. Dealer had to replace the steering shaft. Dealer stated this is a known issue.
A national news magazine reporter would like to speak with owners of a Hummer and are having buyers remorse. If you are an owner, please respond to ctalati@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than Thursday, July 24th.
Just came from Bob's, Redline topics all over first page. Saw the amsoil gear lube test link some time back. Changing dif lube and transfer case has been on the back of my mind. Called Dave at redline and received a nice email with a preliminary response to the lube tests mentioned above. Sticking with redline for the dif's and transfer case.
Went to pick up a new qt lube pump, small capacity, but nice to use. None available at Pepboys, Auto Zone, or Oreilly's. Just bought one a couple of years ago to do the crd.
Should've just searched the net. A nice lady at Plew's sent me to B.E. Atlas in Chicago - getting a box of 5 for $20 plus S&H.
Finally replaced the gear lube in Blue Beauty this weekend. GM synthetic out and Red Line in. Took for a short drive to top off the tank and sling the lube around for monday morning. Better Half came home tonight and almost gave a wow - she said the 3 felt effortless. Didn't do the tcase with Redline D4. While reviewing the shop manual noticed the pipe thread comment (bought some today almost $30 full retail for a little tube, but who pays retail these days).
Another gotcha on the tcase, the vin reflects the possible newer case, there is no blue dot, but there is a sticker saying to add the 8 ounces through the speed sensor. Pulled out copies of posts from fstop on the other forum about this issue. Based on the wow comment the D4 is going in the fill hole or 1.5L of D4 or whatever I feel like.
Keep reading jeeper comments on the jk and looking at another h. Dang if only could get the best of both worlds. The general engine, tran, computers, the jeep history, support, sfa - dang dang dang
Was it months ago on the other forum where the topic was transfer case. A tcase failed around 90K miles? and another about 38k miles? Just changed blue beauty's tcase fluid to D4 redline. Have the sticker but the vin above the change so took off the fill plug first and sure enough out came about eight ounces. Always take the fill plug off first. Saw the plastic sending unit, disconnected it but didn't attempt to take it out. Easy for everything, no jacks needed and plenty of room just doing too much lately and you know that last little thing when your tired really sends the day downhill fast.
The fluid was dirty. I don't remember the tcase (nv241 or nv242?) in the crd being dirty. Advice on the other forum was to change it out. I wish I had made time to do it earlier. Aluminum drain and fill plugs with that expensive teflon sealant really dried on - used an old brass brush to try and clean some of it off - just added a little more and installed them - probably too tight - too lazy to get the three eights torque wrench out.
Came back from doing our part to keep the economy going and decided to take better half to gas up the 3 tonight instead of the solo sunday routine. Went wow. Pulled over let her drive her dd and she went wow. Wish I could let you drive and feel the floating drivetrain and listen to the running gear that is now quiet. Sold on redline. Maybe amsoil has the same effect. Can't wait to do the tranny. Glad the dif's were done first so I could see the effect of each change. Unbelieveably finer than new. mpg's slightly better and expect even more now that the tcase isn't sucking energy.
I just purchased a new 2007 H2 about 10 days ago. Today I went to start it and nothing happens. I cannot move the shifter out of park, the vehicle will not release the key from the ignition. There are NO lights or horn, the only thing that lights up is the engine light. I am thinking its the battery, but on cars of the past you can at least hear the starter clicking, but I get nothing. Obviously a call to the dealer is in order, other than that any ideas from anyone?
depends on how much juice is left in the battery. If this is a brand new H2 than I'm guessing the sitting for 2 years on the lot in all weather has done the job to it.
Comments
I thought this was worth noting since I see several female drivers of H3's! After having a few cars that would only allow you to carry a little travel package of tissues, I'm pleased to report that in the H3's center console under the shallow tray that lifts out, a full sized cube style Boutique box of Kleenex fits perfectly! There's still plenty of room for a few of those other things you might want in the center console! The shallow tray even goes back where it belongs without sticking up!
You see, it's the little things like this that make the H3 Nice to Own!
I read two other forums. One post has the shallow tray mentioned above by better_half as being discontinued. Other items of interest:
Some may experience engine head problems (and it seems GM goes out of their way to keep you happy) but supposedly H3 motors built after March 31, 2006 have stronger valve train. Not concerned.
Chatter about failing heater cores. Not concerned.
Mention of a front differential? on the IFS going bad and clunking especially when rock crawling and using 4low. No mention if rear e locker engaged. Something about bushings?. Other IFS's with aluminum differentials split their case and warranty is denied by that brands parent company. Not concerned.
Big concerns now are getting a shorter antenna so it doesn't hit going in and out of the garage, and need a new ball mount to bridge the big gap from receiver to the trailer.
Does anyone have one with the navi system? How does it do w/ DVD's? I got the luxury level and am wondering about the little things now, like is it w/ the single CD or 6 CD changer, etc. Should be talking to the dealer before long, but I would like to know what owners have to say.
air in the system.
Understand your concern, our ford conversion vans would do that at times sitting at a light and would cause us to shift into neutral and get ready to apply the e-brake. Research back then talked about replacing the master cylinder with a better one from a ford truck.
And one of our vans had a squeal (2 years)that most of the ntx dealers "could not duplicate". b-h and myself, with the engine cover off, found it coming from the abs unit and paid yet another dealer to bleed the system including the abs with the magic box with the toggle switches.
Another hummer dealer maybe.
There are better forums here than this Hummer one for that sort of enquiry. Maybe one of our hosts can direct you?
C
http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
http://www.star-telegram.com/ed_wallace/story/189095.html
Could mobil be using euro profits to subsidize oil for us.
Didn't the last demo pres try to get the euro from ~ eighty cents plus up to parity of one to one with the dollar. I think last year? my post to a european about we've spent our treasury and therefore our goods would be cheaper(implied) was probably wrong. Even gm uses good managers to move millions on a daily basis. If memory isn't failing - decades back didn't importers like gstoyota do the same.
Called redline about dealers and lack of fi cleaner. RL said they could be shipped directly even though si 1 not on the website. Dave also told me the distributor is just down the road in roanoke. Called him. Went there. Bought a whole case of si 1 and a case of sm 5w30 red line. Good bye pepboys and it has been fun at the slippery subject and bitog. Long oci and more time away from the computer.
I did a test drive for 2007 H3. Found that there is some issue with brake and accelerator pedal. While driving it shakes or wobbles (as if it's loose or something like that). Dealer says it's a known problem and GM has a replacement part for that. My question is: is it really true ? Is this a known issue or has anyone experienced this ?
Any info would be appreciated ?
Thanks.
saw bilstein part number of F4-BE5-E672-H0 for front shocks for $121 (did I really see that) vs monroe reflex locally for $71. Looks like a call to bilstein on monday since dealers called today had no clue. And what about the rears, bilstein.
Went to pick up a new qt lube pump, small capacity, but nice to use. None available at Pepboys, Auto Zone, or Oreilly's. Just bought one a couple of years ago to do the crd.
Should've just searched the net. A nice lady at Plew's sent me to B.E. Atlas in Chicago - getting a box of 5 for $20 plus S&H.
Another gotcha on the tcase, the vin reflects the possible newer case, there is no blue dot, but there is a sticker saying to add the 8 ounces through the speed sensor. Pulled out copies of posts from fstop on the other forum about this issue. Based on the wow comment the D4 is going in the fill hole or 1.5L of D4 or whatever I feel like.
Keep reading jeeper comments on the jk and looking at another h. Dang if only could get the best of both worlds. The general engine, tran, computers, the jeep history, support, sfa - dang dang dang
The fluid was dirty. I don't remember the tcase (nv241 or nv242?) in the crd being dirty. Advice on the other forum was to change it out. I wish I had made time to do it earlier. Aluminum drain and fill plugs with that expensive teflon sealant really dried on - used an old brass brush to try and clean some of it off - just added a little more and installed them - probably too tight - too lazy to get the three eights torque wrench out.
Thank you