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Ford Ranger III



  • hmerglerhmergler Posts: 85
    I think onegranite was referring to the fact that Ford is looking at buying into or even buying a controlling interest in DaeWoo. Don't take this to mean that I agree with him, because I don't. I have 2000 Ranger with 15,000 miles on it and the only problem I had was the alternator failed when at 8 miles. The mechanic saw it was defective and had it replaced. No problems since then.

    - The Merg

    The Merg's Freeware Co.
  • Dear all -
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger XL pickup. This truck,
    unlike the XLT version, does NOT have power
    steering. What would it take for me to put the
    power steering into my truck? The chassis is
    exactly the same from the XL to the XLT, and so is
    the 2.3 liter engine.

    Can I get the parts from a junk yard? If so, what
    do I need? How much do you think it would cost
    for me to get a mechanic to install the parts once
    I get them?
    Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • I'm looking to buy a 2000 Ford Ranger with
    the Off-Road package, Automatic, 4.0L V6,
    Flarestyle, etc. I've been offered $100 over
    invoice, and on top of that, Ford will rebate
    $500 with 3.9% finance rate.
    My question: Is $100 over invoice a good
    price for the Ford Ranger at this time of the
    year, with the 2001 model coming out soon?
    Thanks in advance!
  • cpousnrcpousnr Posts: 1,611
    Could I suggest you go here:
    or maybe the main board which you can access from there.

    I think as a minimum you would need a whole new steering setup, a pump and bracket and the lines. You may need new inner tie rod ends and perhaps a new steering column.

    But check out that site, post the question and see what the people say. That board is where guys post info on modified suspensions, engine swaps, header/ehaust swaps etc.

    Give it a try, it is a good site for Ranger info.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    $100 over invoice sounds pretty darn good to me. What is the total price before taxes? In 1998 I paid 19.6K for a similar truck to yours.. Granted, I paid cash this probably made somewhat of a difference..
  • Invoice price was $22,788, so my "base" price
    before taxes and rebates is $22,888. With
    the $500 rebate, it will be $22,388.
    What upsetted me to walk out on them was that
    they advertised it for $1500 below invoice,
    and I'm still paying above invoice. I also
    really wanted Ford to offer the 0.9% financing
    like they are doing for other cars.
  • kjtgkjtg Posts: 49
    I thought Ford was giving a $1500 rebate on Ranger
  • The rebate deal is either $1500 or
    $500 & 3.9% financing. I want the
    good financing deal.
  • pocahontaspocahontas Posts: 802
    In case you didn't know, Edmund's 2001 Ford Ranger Review, by By Liz Kim is now available. Let us know what you think.

    As for Ford Ranger incentives/rebates, look for that information right here in Edmunds's Current Incentives and Rebates section.

    Happy Motoring. ;-)

    Town Hall Roving Host
  • thanks! I'll check it out!
  • cygnusx1cygnusx1 Posts: 290
    Onegranite, I have stories too. I'll tell you the worst in a 1998 Ranger 4.0 was so bad that Ford was forced to buy it back from me. Not replace parts, not give me a new motor, not fix anything - but BUY IT BACK. I went to arbitration and won and they gave me avery red cent back that paid for the truck. The list of probelms was endless.
  • davidb72davidb72 Posts: 174
    Since I've decided to keep my Ranger another 98,000 miles, I've been thinking of installing a locker in the rear end for winter driving. I really like my Ranger, but even with 400 lbs. of sand in the back it is a nightmare in all but the slightest snowfall. Has anyone done this? Mine is a 95, 4 Cyl, 5 Spd. I have the 3.73 gears now, but it is an open differential and I've had many times where one wheel will just spin away while the other one just sits there. Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    Lockers don't help you in icy or snowy conditions. You want a limited slip diff. Lockers are more for straight away acceleration and not good for corners or turning. A limited slip has a clutch mechanism where one wheel slips and causes the clutch to engage the other tire. Locker is when both wheels spin at the same rpm at the same time constantly. Lockers are usually found on the folks who do some serious rock climbing or snorkling or serious offroading. Stats show that over 90% of 4x4's don't even see gravel! I think for you a locker would be way over kill..
  • i just bought a ranger 4x4 xlt extended cab for 20 350 (BFORE tax and title) here in ohio. options include 4.0L six, 5 sp auto, power locks, cruise, air, 4 doors, running boards, air, cd player. this is pretty close to invoice, but soes not take into account "dealer holdbacks". however, i am happy as this is the best price i could find in my area. i also took advantage of the $500 rebate and went with 5 yrs @ 5.9 %. i also bought an after market cap (A.R.E.)
    and bedliner. also, i am installing a "draw tight" brand class III hitch to tow my bass boats (cost for all these about 1550). hope this helps any new shoppers.
  • any comments on the reliability of the ranger 5 speed automatic tranny ? since i just bought a yr 2000 truck with this option, i am intersted in it's long-term reliability. any details i need to be aware of ? any advice on its maintainance ? thanks in advance. freyguy
  • davidb72davidb72 Posts: 174
    Thanks for the advice, you are probably right. Someone else on another board mentioned that they have a lock right in their Bronco and that it makes for "interesting" turning characteristics... I guess I'll keep looking for something elso, either that or I'll try 1000 pounds of sand with the snow tires. It's a shame really, 99% of the time the truck is fine, but those 3 days a year of snow just stop you dead in your tracks...
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    A limited slip may not be out of the question though..
  • I can gladly say that I too won the arbitration, and typical of Ford, everytime I call them on my check I get the proverbial "check is in the mail" response. I am getting every red cent minus the mile the problem was first reported. How long from your acceptance did you finally receive your check? Did the dealer hassle you on little dings?
  • can't speak on the longevity/durability of the auto, but change the fluid _every_ 20,000miles. and i mean a complete fluid change...don't just have them drop the pan and swap out the 4qts there.
  • zartanzartan Posts: 9
    i just noticed someone here named "cygnusx1". rush fan? this is my first post and i just wanted to share some ranger history with you. my 94 2.3l with 88775 miles is in the shop as we speak, so my opinion may be somewhat negative right now. ive had the truck since 27k ad had only one problem up until late. merely replacing the oxygen sensor somewhere around 50k lead me to believe the little truck was indestructible. i would make jokes with my friends about how my american truck will last forever. i am now sorry i said that. at around 80k, i had to buy new tires. that may sound usual but i drove on bad ones sooo long that i was forced, for my own safety, to buy new ones. then it couldnt be aligned because the ball joint went bad. next up, the heat shield comes loose and rattles at extremely irritating frequencies. next, a squealing sound from the rear means my U-joints dont want to work anymore. alas, my front brake pads are all but non-existent. i need a new serpentine belt. my A/C needs recharged. the fan switch only works on high anyway. i cant get the spark plugs out because they were apparently installed pneumatically. there are several other minor things wrong with the truck. it is my opinion that these repairs should not be necessary on a vehicle with only 89k miles of highway, careful (ive never, ever dropped the clutch) driving. i am fearing for a continuation of problems as i have seen in both of my brothers' rangers. one of which broke to the point of no return.
    thanks for listening and i hope this info is useful to anyone wanting to buy a domestic truck. my advice is: dont buy a truck at all. theyre useless. if you need one, buy a beat up, old f150 for $1000. forget american cars completely and buy a mazda, honda, or nissan and be happy when they go and go and go. or, dont buy a car at all. ride your bike, youll be happy you did.
  • I some ways I agree with Rangerous. I also have a bad experience with the Ranger. At 2,000 miles it pings on acceleration and hills. Dealer can't fix the problem other than making me pay for 92 octane fuel. The one or two times I used their service dept, they always have something extra to sell. In case you would like to know the dealer, it was featured on the Edmund's July 2000 Ranger Road Test report. I know I was not only one complaining about this "award winning service dept" dealer..., so they say.
  • zartanzartan Posts: 9
    thanks for your comments. have you had any interesting problems with your ignition switch? the lock on mine just kind of spins around and sometime the key gets stuck and i have to work to get it out. i forgot to mention it when i was complaining. the good thing is sometimes i can manipulate it so the chime trigger doesnt work (theres a little plastic switch proximal to the steering column behind the ignition lock). so, do you think my repairs are common? i dont have that much experience with autos. my previous car was an escort gt that continually fell apart. my friend had one that went almost 160k but he had replaced almost the entire car. my point is that i dont know about "normal" repairs. another question is where the heck is the pcv valve in the 2.3L? i have been looking for it since 65k! i dig your idea of getting another 90k out of yours. i want to do the same (much more economical than buying a new car no matter how you look at it) but as i said, my brothers' rangers both fell apart at around 115k. it seems as if every consumer advocacy guide ranks rangers reliability pretty high but what are the real world records of the early and mid nineties trucks?
    thanks for the tip about the shoes. ill be looking into that.
    onegranite: sorry about your experience with pings. do you have the four cylinder? i noticed this with my truck since ive had it. earlier this year i was driving through west virginia and almost cried as my ranger struggled to make it up the appalachians. it was very frustrating to have a truck struggle and ping its way up foothills. also, it is my opinion that one should avoid the dealer repair shops. i dont believe they are any more qualified than i am to work on a car. they just have the tools and a garage. also, you WILL get ripped off with their pricing policy. does 92 octane fix the ping? ive NEVER used anything but 87 in mine and cant afford to start using premium but i was just wondering. i think the four cylinder is just a little underpowered for its application. good luck.
  • zartanzartan Posts: 9
    almost forgot. can i ask how much changing the timing belt cost you? ill be looking to have this done soon.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    I bought it used with 38,000 miles. It's had all dealer recommended service every 5 k. It now has 59,800 miles and I just took it in for an early 60,000 mile service. Never a lick of trouble with the engine or suspension. they told me the serpentine belt will need replacement in about 5,000 miles. The only annoying thing has been the electrical system. That damned interior light, and a malfunctioning temp gauge which my dealer took care of as a warentee repais when it really wasn't. Overall I'm more than happy with the truck, which has never failed to start or take me where i need to go. One question though: My dealer service manager told me I have a timing chain that wont need replacement until the hundred thousand mile mark. Anyone know whether this is true or heard differently?
  • davidb72davidb72 Posts: 174
    I paid $335.00 to have the Ford dealer change my timing belt. I had taken it to a local mechanic at 60,000 miles, but he couldn't get it off, he did say that it looked good so I chanced it and drove it to about 97,000 miles. I was away for two weeks for the Army so I dropped it off and let them take their time to do it. Sorry to hear about your ignition switch, that sucks and sounds unusual to me. The other repairs sounded pretty common, they are just basic preventive maintenance that most all vehicled will eventually need. The PCV is that little gray thing sticking out of what looks like the power brake booster. Why it is there I do not know, but I did the same thing! I was looking and looking, I figured it would be on the intake manifold somewhere, but nope.
    To Eharri3, if your truck has the 2.3 then I would reccomend changing the timing BELT between 60,000 to 75,000 miles, like I said above, I pushed mine to 97,000 but I wasn't real comfortable with that. I will say that the belt looked OK though, the dealer left it in the truck for me to look at. If you have a 3.0 or 4.0 then you have a timing CHAIN and I can't help you, I don't know if you have to replace them or not.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    thank you. my service manager may have some explaining to do.
  • 1999 4WD ranger torsion bar broke after big noise driving off road on 4WD Low.
    Took it to dealer, fixed the problem; but I still have that same noise while driving 4WD low.
    The problem is that the vehicle in now off Warranty period; can I still apply the Lemon Law?
    please advise
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    Your vehicel has over 36K miles on it and its a 1999? It hasn't been 3 years yet either.
    I would try to bring it back under the original repair and claim they didn't fix it right the first time, may work...
  • dannygdannyg Posts: 131
    Just curious, what kind of MPG do you get? I've got a 1985 2.8L V6 4x4 long-bed Ranger, I get about 16MPG around town and 19MPG highway. Make that 20MPG if I take it easy and use a tonneau.

    Yes, the 2001s look good. I'm waiting for the 2.3L 4cyl, I'm interested in improving my MPG.
  • I've been getting between 17.5 and 21 mpg in my '89 2.9L. I could probably get up to 23 mpg, but that would require keeping it below 60mph on the highway - not gonna happen. Also, the check engine light comes on with long periods of idling (shuts off when you go), so there is probably a bad sensor or something. Have to have it looked at soon.
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