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SUVs and Smart Shopper
Does the '99 have an interior light overide? I seem to remember that if the dash light brightness control is turned all the way up, the lights come on without opening a door. If turned all the way down, some vehicles will turn off the interior lights even with the door open.
I've got a 95' Jimmy SLE if that helps. Any thoughts or suggestions??
I DIDENT DO IT I swear............The Jimmy germlin ??
My freind was happy I finshed my part quick Iam sitting there driver in hand looking like ??????????
Anyway what can I look for and any and all help is needed.New here and this is MY first Jimmy.Thanks Vernon
Alternatively, any GM dealer should be able to fix it for you.
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Anyway, I have to remove the fuse to keep the lights from draining the battery but, If I want to switch to or from 4wd I have to replace the (light) fuse and then switch drives and then stop and remove this fuse or the tail gait will pop open!! Any advice or suggestions?? It gets dark here and we have alot of snow!
thanks, new guy michael
thank you and will check, the shop worked under there when they put a new actuator door in but told me nothing there would cause what is going on.
Or...could I just be CRAZY.........
replaced..computer..fuel pump...cam and crank sensor...distr..pugs..wires...
I get codes telling me it misfires....and sometimes is -7 off in timing...but I can't turn the distr..it's locked down...HELPPPPPP
I have a 1996 Jimmy that I put an electric over hydraulic plow on. I put a second battery in it to help with the draw. I used it all last winter and when everything was running (lights, defroster, rear defroster, rear wiper, front wipers...when I actuated the plow...it would draw down to @9 volts at an idle to 1000 rpm. I decided to put on a larger output alternator for this coming winter and bought a 155 amp unit and also the recommended beefier wiring kit with a 175 amp fuse in it. I installed everything and ran the vehicle with everything going and actuated the plow several times. It still drew down to @ 10 volts but recovered much quicker. I shut it off and since it's just used for plowing, I didn't start it again for a week or so.
Recently, I started her up and immediately noticed that the voltmeter was registering about 9.5 volts with no load on anything. I called Napa and had them ship another one. I took my new one in and the guy bench tested it and said it was good. He also tested the new one they got for a replacement and found it to be bad so he ordered a third one. I installed this one and it worked fine. I started it up the next 3 days in a row and it was charging just fine...but the 4th day, it did the same thing. When I started it up, it wasn't charging. Something happened to both alternators between the time I shut off the vehicle and the alternator was charging...to the next time I started it and it wasn't.
I believe I should have 12 volts at the charge cable end at the alternator at all times...I do. Also, the "L" terminal coming out of the harness at the alternator should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the RUN or START position...I can't confirm that. I don't have a test meter...just a 12 volt trouble light and I'm not sure I'm making a good connection to that small pin but I had these conditions before I installed the second alternator and it worked for 4 days.
I don't understand what has happened...why the new alternator will work for a while and then just stop working while the engine isn't even running. I just replaced the original 105 amp alternator with a higher output one...and I installed the wire upgrade kit that goes with it.
What does that "L" pin go to? Does it have something to do with "exciting" the regulator? I think I read that it could have a resistor in the line somewhere. What does it look like, where is it located, and how do I test it? Can you enlighten and help me...PLEASE? :confuse:
but thanks for the help guys.