Dodge Ram Transmission Problems

dustyk

Virtually any internal part is available from Dodge. I would recommend visiting a dealer's parts department. They should be able to help you get the correct parts.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

As you're facing the driving shell or drum, there should be a snap ring on the shaft. Removing the snap ring should allow you to remove front annulus gear and front planetary gearset.

Do not reuse the snap ring that you removed. It must be reassembled with a new snap ring.

Regards,
Dusty

eager777

I have a 1995 Dodge 3500 with a cummins turbo diesel. The automatic transmission cannot decide which gear it wants to be in once over 60 mph, and continuously shifts between 3rd and 4th. Selecting overdrive off kills the overdrive, but does not eliminate the problem.

When idling, my headlights brightness varies leading me to believe the alternator voltage regulator is bad. I've heard this may cause shifting problems. Does anyone else have any other ideas?

popieswhip

Thanks dusty I will try my local dealer tomorrow
Ill let you know how it goes
popieswhip

spike1999

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 2 wheel drive 5.2 litre automatic A518. It will not shifht out of first gear I only have 1st and reverse. I've had diagnostic test done it said governor pressure solenoid. I have replace it and the speed control sensor. It is still doing the same thing. Could it possibly be the servo? Someone please help!

dustyk

How many miles on this vehicle?

Actually, I think you'll find you have a 46RE transmission. Other possibilities:

*Valve body issues. You could have a stuck/binding 1-2 shift valve or inoperative solenoid, or a stuck govenor plug. Binding shift valves usually indicate a worn valve body, stuck valves are usually related to dirty fluid. Both conditions can be attributed to a weak or otherwise defective shift solenoid.

Check the terminals in the electrical connector to the transmission for signs of corrosion or contamination. Clean or repair as necessary.

*Remove the transmission pan. The kickdown band strut could have fallen off. This indicates a very worn kickdown band or one that is seriously out of adjustment. The front servo could be stuck or broken as well.

*Defective PCM.

You say that a diagnostic pointed to the Govenor Pressure Solenoid and you replaced it. There is also a Governor Pressure Sensor (the thing the Govenor Pressure Solenoid mounts to) that could be bad.

Regards,
Dusty

sailor12

Our 2007 Ram 3500 has the 6.7 Cummins with the 6-speed auto trans. Great trans, but I'm worried it won't last. We tow a heavy 5th wheel RV (17,000 lbs). On the highway, the trans works perfectly. However, on one grade inside the RV park where we spend part of every summer, we have to tow up a 15% grade. I lock the trans in first gear before going up the grade, and the engine charges up the grade with ease. But the trans rumbles and causes a serious vibration in the whole vehicle. When we get to the top of the grade, no more than 100 yards, the temp gauge on the trans has gone from its normal 150 range to 200. Any ideas what's going on? Solutions?

spike1999

It has 180,000. It is a 46RE I was under the impression that the A518 and 46RE are the same. I did replace the governor presessor sensor. When I dropped the pan there was nothing that fell out.

dustyk

You have a 68RE transmission.

Can you tell if the engine temperature went up as well, or is the only indication that the transmission temperature increased?

Technically, at 200 degrees F the transmission fluid temperature is still within the normal operating range, so I'm not sure this is really a problem. If the engine temperature climbs as well, I'd be prone to think the engine temperature is affecting the transmission fluid temperature through the transmission cooler in the radiator, not necessarily the other way around. But hard to say with factory gauges, and I make it a point to stay away from diesels.

I am not intimately familiar with the 68RE transmission. Our Dodge tech. has never had one apart, either. However, I believe there are computer updates for this transmission since 2007. I would recommend you consult a Dodge transmission technician and review this situation with them. The temperature would not alarm me since its within operating range, but the vibration is something else and should be checked. It could be excessive torque converter shutter, especially since the torque converter is not locked when in manual 1st gear.

You didn't indicate how many miles on this vehicle, but it may be possible the friction modifier component in the transmission fluid has expended and the fluid needs to be changed. Like any Chrysler-built transmission, the 68RE requires ATF+4, but this one is even more sensitive to the correct fluid. Please don't let anyone talk you into using anything else!

Sorry I'm not much help on this one.

Best regards,
Dusty

sailor12

Dusty,

Thanks for your reply. You clearly know more about the 68RE than I do.

We bought the truck new in 2007, and it only has 13,000 miles on it. I have consulted three dealership diesel mechanics on this issue--Folsom Lake Dodge (Sacramento), Ron Sayer Dodge (Idaho Falls), and Lithia Dodge (Eugene, OR), but they couldn't or wouldn't do any more than put in new codes.

When the trans temp goes up, the engine temp does not. I had after market gauges installed so I could monitor trans temp, exhaust temp, and boost. (Having driven big rig for years, I want to know what's getting too hot.)

I lock the trans in 1st gear because the trans appeared to slip on the grade in question otherwise. Is it not a good idea to lock it in 1st? Is torque converter shudder bad? The most knowledgeable of the Dodge mechanics I spoke with said the shudder wouldn't hurt the trans. True or telling me to go away?
Thanks again,
Bob

dlgldx

mag. runs and drives wont go to park check fluid and linkage trannie works all other gears and shifts fine exept from1>2 takes a little longer not sure what to do any suggestions would be great, thanks

dustyk

The gearshift linkage is damaged or out of adjustment, the parking pawl isn't able to slide into the sprag for some reason, or the end of the pawl is broken off (rare).

Get the vehicle on a flat, level surface and make sure the vehicle cannot roll more than an inch in either direction. I would recommend checking the shift lever on the transmission case to see if it can move into the park position by hand. If it can't, I suspect there is a problem with the pawl (either its bent or there is a burr on it) or the gearshift linkage is out of adjustment, preventing the shift lever on the transmission enough movement to engage the parking pawl. I suspect the latter.

Regards,
Dusty

git_r_done02

MY 02 2500 4x4 wont stay in lock up torque converter. The truck shifts fine through all the gears until you get up to 45mph when the TC tries to lock up it kust goes in and out. But once you get on up tp speed for highway driving like 65mph or more its fine. And it doesn't matter if its OD or not it will do the same thing with the OD off but at a slower speed like around 35mph or so. We already pulled the pan and changed all the electronics around the valve body but its still doing the same thing. So how about some help someone, my ears are open! Thanks

Newtomopar

I have a 98 1/2 24 valve. I just bought the truck thinking it was in good working order. On the way home I had the exact same symptoms, The truck has a brand new tranny in it from Chrysler with 6000 miles on it The dealership and checker both diagnosed it as a bad tps. I spent the $580 and replaced today and it shifts better but still goes in and out. That is enough to piss a guy off so like you, I would love if someone had some sort of explanation for this. Thanks

dlgldx

ill check it out and repost later with updates

thanks-dusty,
dlgldx

dustyk

Do you know which transmission you have? What engine and how many miles on thie vehicle?

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

I'm assuming this is a RAM diesel. Do you know which transmission is in this vehicle?

Regards,
Dusty

Newtomopar

I don't know which tranny is in it. The truck is a 98 1/2 dodge ram 2500 24 valve diesel

crangel

The converter on my 01 RAM decided to stop locking in about a year ago. I don't drive the truck a lot. I bought it 2 years ago & it had 40,000 miles on it. When the converter stop working i noticed right away. It was fine as i was driving one day. I came to a stop sign, stopped, took off and noticed it didn't lock up. Now i'm using it a little more than before and i'd like my lock-up back. There's a little over 50,000 miles on it now. I took an ohm reading on the TCC, O/D, And GOV. solinoids, all are acceptable. I replaced the GOV. pressure senser just in case. Other than this the tranny seams fine. No shift problems. It did set a code in the PCM (1740).
By the way the filter and ATF+4 fluid have been changed.

Any ideas?

I could really use some help diagnosing this problem.

thanks

dustyk

You probably have a 47RE. My apologies, I went back and looked at the previous posts, but I'm not sure what the actual symptoms are. Could you please be more specific?

Thanks,
Dusty

dustyk

Does the transmission always go through 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 shift sequence in normal driving?

Regards,
Dusty

git_r_done02

Ya bud im not really sure what tranny it has but its a 24 valve cummins and its got about 166k on it with about 30k on the tranny rebuild. And since the rebuild I haven't towed much of anything. Before the rebuild I towed stuff all the time but I try to take it easy now.

crangel

Ya. Normal shifts, the O/D still works. It can be turned on & off. Just no lock-up.

dustyk

To be honest with you I would not be suspecting the transmission just yet.

On 47REs the operation of the torque converter clutch is initiated by the Power Train Control Module (PCM) and very dependent on engine performance, load conditions, and driver input.

It would be very helpful to have a trouble code, which is accessible by the operator.

I would recommend checking the Throttle Position Lever that's mounted on the transmission for sticking or binding, or a broken or missing return spring. This problem can also be caused by an out-of-adjustment throttle cable. A bad Throttle Position Sensor can also cause this problem. Lastly, converter lock-up problems can be the result of poor engine performance.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

Possibilities:

*Throttle Valve Lever on transmission stuck or binding, or cable kinked, damaged or binding.

*Throttle linkage sticking/binding.

*O/D switch circuit inoperative or switch defective.

*Engine not coming to full operating temperature, or defective Transmission Temperature Sensor.

*Transmission Valve Body - Low/Reverse Solenoid accumulator or switch valves sticking or leaking pressure, warped valve body or leaky separator plate; dirty valve body.

*Weak or defective TCC Solenoid.

*Worn Torque Converter Clutch.

*Bad PCM.

Regards,
Dusty

crangel

Thanks Dusty

Newtomopar

I have 6000 miles on a brand new tranny, shifts fine through 1,2,3 and overdrive until I keep it at a consistent speed (from 45-65). Then the tranny constantly shifts between 3rd and 4th. I just bought a tps because the dealer and checker diagnosed that to be the problem but it did not help.

dustyk

Assuming that the work on the transmission was competently performed, I would strongly suspect that the Throttle Valve cable and/or throttle linkage is out of adjustment. This adjustment is quite sensitive and should be done exactly per the service manual.

Regards,
Dusty

Newtomopar

Thank you Dusty, judging by the rest of you post's, you really sound like you know these things well. I will take a look at everything and let you know!
Thanks,
Dustin

git_r_done02

Alright well like I said I had the tranny went through last year and a new TC when it went back in. And I got the Chrsyler parts #'s of what I replaced a couple of days ago that didn't change anything. #4617210 solenoid, 52118500-AB solenoid, and 56028196-AD transducer. I dont know if that will help you any or not. And as far as the engine performance of the truck, there's nothing happening there. The engine is real strong and does great, I got a couple of performance upgrades on it- an Edge EZ chip and a K&N cold air intake but other than that its stock. And on the TPS it was replaced about a year and a half ago, so I would hope its still good. I dont know about the Throttle Position Lever or the spring on it. So man if ya got any other ideas let me know. I really appreciate the info so far.
Thanks Nick R.

git_r_done02

Oh and I forgot to put in the last message that I've had the codes pulled on it and nothing came up. So thats kinda why we are just scratchin our heads here.
Thanks Again

ptonyt

Bought a 99 dodge ram quad cab with 80k on it last tuesday. First time I took it on the highway the shifting seemed a little funny but being my first truck didn't think to much of it. about 100 miles later... I was no longer able to go 75 on the highway... when the truck shifted into 4th or 5th it maintained speed at 65 ish at 1800rpm... when I tried to accellerate it would drop gears and sit around 3000 rpm and not accelerate with the pedal to the floor. Then when I got off the highway I could drive fine in 1 and 2 but as soon as I give it more gas and it drops a gear I got it to 4000 rpm.. but no power what so ever.... just kinda stayed the same speed.... Just bought the truck... guy said he never had a problem with it... and its never towed anything other than a single 4 wheeler.... any thoughts what this could be?

Thanks!
Tony

yares

Did you ever find out the cause of this. My truck wont go into Park or Reverse so I'd love to know what was wrong with yours.

Diana
dyares@gmail.com

yares

My 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 Turbo Diesel truck wont shift into park or reverse. Also the headlights and tail lights flash and the gear indicator lights flash. This happened right after shifting out of 4 wheel drive., When shifting out of 4 wheel dirve, the truck made a bad gear grinding noise and the the shifter stick for the main automatic transmssion shuddered and shook badly.

Has anyone else encountered this?

Any suggestions?

Diana
dyares@gmail.com

jdob

i am putting automatic 518 tranny out of 95 318 v8 into 01. i have been told that i would have to rewire it. 95 is mech/hyd shift and 01 is elec. got any advice?

jdob

fuddodge

hey dusty my 2001 dodge ram 1500 trans is doing something different now it is a 46re after driving my dodge for about 5 miles or so then its like it goes into neutral it has no gears at all 123 gears and od will not work neither does reverse but after you let it sit for a little while and cool off ,you can drive it ,all the gears work :mad: for another 5 miles or so then it does it again,just so you know there is 116000 miles on the truck and we have never done anything to the transmission :mad:

Newtomopar

I was driving the truck today and of course the tranny was acting up constantly. On the way home from work it was getting warm in the truck so I turned off the heater and the tranny started working perfectly, wierd I thought, I turned it back on and instantly started acting up again, turn it off and fine. It does it with the with the heater, air conditioner, and the defroster. I figure there must be a short somewhere but I don't know exactly. If you have any thoughts on this I would love hear them.
Thanks,
Dustin

FlyDay

Read almost every post here, our prob is just a hair different. My B-I-L's truck was fine when I sold it to him w/ 155,000 miles on it. No drivetrain trouble ever.

A few weeks ago it began this deal in the title. Normally it runs right around 2000-2100 rpm @ 70 mph. Now it's closer to 3000. It shifts normally but won't go into OD/ lockup, don't know which. OBD-I set a code of 37 and 21. 37 is the torque converter clutch solenoid, according to the book. They told my B-I-L it was the lock up solenoids. I said fine and changed that today.

Truck runs the same. It now has 185,000 miles on it. Fluid was stinky and dark red, but not much in the pan in the way of metal, a few bronze flakes. I actuated the OD switch many times to see the difference. At each push of the button, on or off, the rpm clicked up about 200, then a few seconds later returned to its previous reading. So is the thing going into OD, but not locking up? Locking up w/ no OD? All/neither of the above?? Sorry for the long post...

git_r_done02

Ok man, got the tranny fixed! Thanks for the info on what to try. You will never believe what was causing the problems. I went around to a couple of more rtanny shops and the last one told me to check the battery terminals to make sure its making a good connection, if that doesn't fix check the wire loom going to the tranny from the alternator and that doesn't work its the TPS. So i went home we cleaned the battery terminals and tightened them up and now the tranny works like brand new. Its the craziest thing I've ever heard of but it worked. And whats bad is the terminals weren't gunked up or anything. So anyone else having shifting problems and can't figure it out, check those battery cables!
Thanks again dustyk

FlyDay

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram/41924-merry-christmas-guys.html

Found a complete shop manual here, almost 60 MB. It's for 2001's but alot of the info applies to years around there.

silverado65

I have a 98 Ram 2500 with Cummins engine and 5 speed manual transmission. When the temperature is cold outside, I hear a "squishing" noise coming from the transmission when I start out. It sounds like oil being forced out through the gears. This only happens when it is cold and when you first start out, at less than 10 mph. Once it is driven a block or so the noise goes away. I have changed the transmission oil and still have same problem. The clutch was replaced about 5000 miles ago. This is a recent problem, within the last couple of weeks. Any ideas?

waynek5

I have a 2001 ram 1500,occasionaly the transmission will stutter while in overdrive.I have 65k on the truck.Could it need a new filter? Adjustment?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

Wayne K

dustyk

Assuming you've checked the fluid level, my guess is the transmission is losing hydraulic pressure, possibly from a clogged transmission filter, transmission cooling lines or anti-drain back valve, or you are losing the transmission pump, or you've got a valve body malfunction.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk

If you have a V8, you've got a 46RE transmission.

At 65,000 miles you should've had at least one transmission maintenance (filter and fluid), and I would have recommended the bands be checked and adjusted.

If you've got torque converter chatter, a transmission filter and complete fluid change may resolve this issue. If this problem is accompanied by and or manifests itself as the torque converter coming in and out constantly, I would suspect a bad Throttle Position Sensor, especially because of the year and miles.

Regards,
Dusty

MikaybiZ

Hi, I am new to this forum and I was reading a few of the posts. I own a 2000 dodge ram 1500 5.9L gas 360. Anyway I just had the transmission replaced, however I think the repairman put the wrong one back in. The paperwork says it is an A618 or a 47RE, from what I have read so far I should have the 46RE, the 47RE was for the 5.9L cummins and the 8.0L V-10. Is this a big concern or will the transmission be okay. The only reason I ask is that I now have a check engine light with the code of P1740 something to do with the TCC or OD solenoid. Anybody have any words of wisdom.

dustyk

Hmmm. Well, yes, a A618 is the previous nomenclature for the 47RH, and the basis for the 47RE. You are correct that the 47RE was used on the V-10 and earlier Cummins motors. A 47RE is essentially the same as a 46RE, but uses additional clutches and has extra pinions in the planetary gearsets. It is a heavier version of a 46RE, if you will.

Can a A-618/47RE bolt up to your 2000 360 motor. Yes. Is there a problem with this? Not in my opinion. I'm guessing that who ever did the work for you did not rebuild or work on the original transmission, but bought an off-the-shelf rebuilt from a supplier. If so, the supplier is probably hedging for the sake of warranty coverage knowing that truck trannies often get abused and poorly cared for and a stronger version would hold up better, or at least that's their theory. Since the difference between rebuilding a 46RE and a 47RE is rather minuscule, it logically provides an increased cost/benefit ratio for the supplier.

I'll have to check, but it is possible that a 47RE was available as an option for the 360, and maybe even the 318 in those years.

By any chance is this a 4x4 RAM?

Regards,
Dusty

rrhnz1

suggest you look at you belts, had similar problems that turned out to be idler pulley bearings was bad allowing the belt to slip when electrical load caused by AC

MikaybiZ

As a matter of fact it is, the odd thing is I had this trannie replaced in Utah in October and the drove to Alabama at the beginning of November without a problem. It wasn't until recently that it started acting up. The most notable problem has been it shifting itself out of overdrive and not letting me put back into overdrive. Even with the check engine light it seems to be driving okay, I would rather not press my luck and be stuck somewhere. Also has anybody had any problems with their dashboard basically fall apart? If so what can I do? I it a pain to replace by myself? I'm not Mr. Goodwrench by any means but I can do some basic stuff. By the way thanks for your help Dusty.

Mike

inknthread

How expensive was this to fix. I think the same thing happened to me today. Thanks