I have an 02 dodge 1500. Pending on the year and transmission you have you might want to check the (TV) Throttle Valve cable. I did this per the Haynes manual I have for my year and all looked good. I went to three repair shops and they tried to sell me an overhaul. I eventually took it to someone I could trust and they Diagnosed it and forund the (TV) cable out of adjustment. I had them do the tranny service while it was there. Runs like a champ now, better than before. $40.00 for the adjustment was a lot better to swallow than $3000.00. Invest in the Haynes manual first. You can save alot of $ if you know what your talking about, before you take it somewhere.
Also I forgot to tell you that in the Haynes manual it states that the (TV) cable might be adjusted and working fine when it is cold but will not work after it reaches operating temp. Something to look at.
when i shift from park to drive my trans starts out in third gear when i manually shift from drive to first it goes into second. when shift it from park to first it goes into first.once i get it into first mind you this is a auto trans it manually shifts perfect through all the gears like new. but if i leave it in drive it stays in third
We just bought a 1998 Ram 2500. After we got it home (illinois doesn't have a lemon or any used car protection laws) the check engine light came on PO740. My husband did the check you described for flow and got about 3 quarts in 20 seconds. It keeps down shifting back to first and gets really high rpms before it shifts to second. It never did this on our test drive or when we had it overnight. Does it seem that the transmission is toast or should we flush the whole thing out and replace the hoses when we change the transmission fluid and filter. Could it be the filter plugged. It doesn't smell burnt but there are no records of it being changed since 38,000 miles and it has 89,000. The guy to own it before us said he never changed it. It is not burnt smelling smells like old fluid. We are so disqusted this dealer seemed to know before we told him that there were problems. On a dodge will the error code light go out after a little while or after you run the codes? It went out but the codes are still there and the problem is still there. We didn't erase codes the law in illinois doesn't let part stores do that anymore. Could it be the bands just need tightening since the transmission has apparently never been serviced.
go to a dealer get a govenor pressure sensor and switch easy to repaired they go bad all the time be sure to only atf4 fluid can be bought at napa if not sure what was use in it in the past flush i also bypassed the check ball hose i replace it with ordinary transmission hose
Does it sound like the transmission is probably okay then or should we be threatening this dealer to take it back. Only had it less than 48 hours when issue started.
I am interested in purchasing the 5.7L, 3.92 axle, Quad Cab. But I noticed in a couple of trucks (one in particular) that when I attempt to come to a smooth stop - from a low speed - the truck pulses (at a point just shy of stopping) and you can feel the entire truck mildly bucking/pushing/bouncing/shuddering forward - like a barrage of little ripples front-to-back. To all current 2009 Dodge Ram 1500, anyone know if their trucks do this too? Is this an isolated phenomenon? Thank you in advance for your input.
Sounds like the ABS braking system may be malfunctioning or just might be real noticable in your RAM. The ABS pulsates so your wheels dont lock up in a hard brake or on slippery surfaces to keep the wheels rolling so you dont slide out.
my truck, an 02 3500, is not wanting to shift from 1st gear..it will shift if i pat the accelerator or if under no load. i replaced the governor pressure sensor and solenoid today,atf-4 and a new filter. nothing bad in the pan.however,i still have the same problem...any other suggestions?
It certainly could be an ABS issue - I'm coming to an easy stop in the parking lot of the dealership on a dry pavement (asphalt) and while approaching intersections- so the ABS should never engage in this situation. The salesman acknowledged it himself and even tested another vehicle and we both noticed it more on this particular truck (didn't care for the color/features on the Ram that was smoother). I know this sounds like knit-picking, but if no one else notices this, I suppose I should set my sights on another Ram. Thank you for replying to the original post.
its a automatic it starts off in 3rd when its in drive. when i go from park down to 1st and run through it manually its fine like new but if i should go from drive to !st it starts out in 2nd. so another words when i get to a light as long as i go into park and then shift into 1st its ok, i just cant start it out in drive because it stays in third.
hi, not sure how to put this, but I have a 5.9l V8. My shift lever is loose, and I am having problems getting the truck into drive I need to at times go down to 2nd then find my way back up. Sometimes while driving i do not notice that I am not yet out of 2nd until I hit the highway and try to pick up speed. Then the engine reves up and I have to fiddle with the lever quickly going in Neut, and trying to get it to drop into gear. I also find my rpms going between 1 and 3 while driving and tapping the lever seems to knock it back down. I am going to the shop for inspection and want them to look at it for me. But would like a heads up of what to expect. I have no lights on. So I dont beleive there is a trans issue. I did have my trans repalced at 86,000 miles. it now has 123,000. Any idea as to how much getting possibly the gear shifter replaced could cost, and is this a labor intensefied job. Thanks ahead of time for any help received. :confuse:
Does anyone know what trans is in a 1999 B150 Van with an automatic 3.9 ? Is it the same as the one in a 2001 Ram 1500 with the same motor ? Please help.
Hi guys. My 2001 Ram 1500 with a 3.9 automatic was shifting fine. One day I went to move it and now I only have reverse. Any ideas ? I have changed the filter and fluid with all Mopar parts. I don't know what else to do or try. Also I noticed that my shift lever no longer locks into place.
04 Ram 3500 dually with the 5.9 diesel and auto trans. Was coming home the other night, slowed down to go over some railroad tracks. When I went to accelerate I only had first. I was only about a mile from my house so I drove home and parked it. Let it set for a few days until I had time to look at it. Got in and the truck drove fine for about 5 minutes then went back to doing the same thing. I always have first and reverse. Both engage normally and pull fine. Have not noticed any slipping or other indicators of a problem in the past. That being said the trans has not had the easiest life. It has been too long since I changed the fluid, it does have an aftermarket fuel/ignition box for HP and it has seen it's share of full throttle pulls. I know this is a combo that is asking for problems but seeing the manner in which this one came about. I'm finding it hard to believe it is in need of a tear down. Don't know crap about auto transmissions. This is the first one I've ever had. And now probably won't ever have another one. Any info is appreciated.
Hey guys. The above truck(98 Dodge 4X4 1500 5.9 auto, overdrive) is causing me trans problems. It's holding first gear until it hits between 3500 and 4000 rpms and when it does shift it shifts hard. After that it does fine shifting through the gears and into overdrive. I changed the fluid with synthetic and made sure it was the right stuff to use. I still have the same problem. Took it to my local Auto Zone and it threw a speed sensor code. A speed sensor that looked like it plugged on the back of the transfer case. I could not find this sensor anywhere on the truck. Am I just overlooking it? I got the print out and it shows where the sensor should be but now I'm thinking it's for a different trans. I got an SU394 from Auto Zone which says it's a vehicle speed sensor. After searching on their website I find an SU1034 that says it's trans speed sensor. I don't know where to go from here. On a side note, my speedo does not work until the truck is up around 30 mph.
After seeing all these post, it reminded me of my problems. I bought a 2000 dodge ram 4x4 1500 5.9L WITH 85,000 MILES. The check engine light came on after i drove just 250 miles after purchase. I did buy the car as is no guarentee, shoulda realized something was up when that wasn't given for a truck with only that many miles. Anyways i did get a 1 year warrenty unlimited mile for $440 bucks. Anyways i took my truck to the local Chrysler dealership after i took it in to get a tranny flush to see if that would help withe the engine light which said it was a TCC selenoid p1744 code(forget) What sucks is my warrenty didn't cover the tcc selenoid so i paid for it and install and what pisses me off is that i was charged for a tranny flush and new filter and pan when it already had all that stuff from the day before($133). That's when i felt it was all a scam. They put the new tcc on(cost me $650 bucks with tranny flush and filter/pan), the check engine light came on after 127 miles, took it back since the part was covered by the service shop of the chrysler garage, said they would put a new tcc in, got that done, left light same code came on again after 112 miles, took back said they will clean and put new wire harness on, had that done light came on same code took back, said it was the flex plate or pressure plate whatever, had that done left light same code came on after 27 miles. Took it back, and by then the garage probably didn't want to pay for it anymore, so i get screwed more they say they want to put a new pump in then say they will contact my warrenty company, they say they won't cover it, so the service rep at the garage i want argued and got them to atleast get me a used tranny with 50,000+miles on it. They put it on which that cost me $550 bucks waiting to get a rebate check thing from warrenty for atleast $350 bucks, but i probably won't see that from them from what i have heard about Great Lakes Warrenty. But the truck is running just fine after 90 miles so far. But i noticed the shifter when i shift it into D it is actually in D1 so in order to be in DRIVE, the shifter has to look like it is in N(neutral). I think the previous owners may have driven it in D1 and maybe driving it fast in that position let alone in Overdrive. That also could be the problem for some others, not sure. Anyways if the Check engine light comes on i will think it is the sensor. ALSO how can i fix the shifter so it looks like it is in the proper position, so that others like my fiance can drive and not have to worry about her remembering that it has to look like it is in neutral?
Not sure if i will ever drive a dodge again, since this was the first Chrysler vehicle i ever bought. Before i only had Ford, Chevy. But i like the looks of Dodge and might take a chance someday, but this experience does make me sour towards dodge, warrenty companies, little dealerships, and big dealerships with the service departments.
I wish I could help, but I came on here looking for answers about the same thing. I have a 2008 Ram 1500 with 11,500 miles. Two days ago I drove about 1/2 mile to a stop sign. After pulling through the intersection I felt the engine rev and looked down to see the engine light on. I backed into a side street to turn around only to discover that I had no forward gears at all. The dealership wants to take the trans off and take a look inside to see what happened. It doesn't sound right to me. Have you had any luck finding out what your problem is?
Thanks for the reply. I have'nt much time to mess with it, and have'nt gotten any answers from anyone yet. With mine, the engine light never came on. I'll keep digging for an answer and let you know if I figure it out.
Hey,Can any one HELP??I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 it runs great but the tranny seems to shift hard and can be a littl era tic going in to 3rd it also clunks when put into gear like the u joints are bad but they are OK.I just changed the fluid and filter but did not help.Someone said it could be the speed sencer on the tranny or the wire going to the sencer may be bad.My check eng light is on but when they checked it they said that it came up as high volts at down flow O2 sencer.If anyone knows what it may be please let me know.If it is the speed sencer should it reset if if the battery is disconected ahd shift better untill the check eng lite comes back on.I was told that some of the units that the auto parts places use will not pick up some of the codes.
i see all these problems you people are having with dodge trannys i dont understand it at all every truck i have ever owned has been a dodge of some sort my first one was a 74 d100 i bought it with 300,000 miles on it and drove it for 8 years and another 250,000 miles the only thing i ever had to fix on it was a head a carburator and the normal consumables (brakes/shocks/tires ) iv had a 83 b150 that went 275000 miles before selling it (running fine) a 87 b250 that had 235000 miles (it ran great a tree fell on it) and i currently drive a 1998 ram 1500 4x4 quad cab it just turned 110,000 miles and it runs and drives like the day i drove it off the showroom floor iv never had a trans fail on me keep in mind you only get out what you put in if you dont take care of your truck it will fail you if you treat it like a race car it will fail you 99.99%of driver abuse the hell out of a car and all the while think they are great drivers the moral of the story is .......take good care of your truck and drive it the way it was designed to be driven and you will never have a problem :surprise:
I baby this truck. I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4, 360 motor, 5.9 with 46RE, I think. Automatic Tranny. I have 180,000 miles on the truck and motor. I replaced the tranny with a Jasper about 90,000 miles ago.
About 30,000 miles ago I had the tranny flushed by a machine. The tranny started shifting funny a few weeks ago. I would give it the gas and it would shift up normally then sometimes it would not shift up, without letting off the gas a bit. I could sometimes take it easy and it would shift fine through the gears. Sometimes I could stand on it, and it would shift fine.
The other day it started as normal and will not shift up past 1st gear. I can go in reverse too without a problem. I can put the shifter into 1 and 2 and D and the truck will go but not past 1st gear.
I get NO codes but "P doNe."
"My first tranny went out with NO notice or acting funny at all. It just quit and the engine kept winding."
For the last year or so...If my truck would sit for a day or so, when I went to start it up, the transmission would have to build up pressure for a few seconds before it would finally grab hold and go after putting it in drive...I was told this was normal and not harmful.
I was told to change the filter and fluid, along with the governor pressure solenoid and sensor
Does this sound right? When I get the pan off can I do anything else that needs to be done like band adjustment, and to what spec? Taking into consideration the pan is not filled with debris. I guess a CLEAN pan is a GOOD pan. Can I tell if the right fluid has been used in it?
I can't answer most of your questions, but yes, the hesitation is normal for a Dodge. The pressure does not build in Park. If, immediately upon start, you place it in Drive (with foot on brake, of course), pressure builds faster. it just isn't worth the trouble.bre
I've had this 5.7L truck only a couple of weeks and noticed this a few times now. I'll approach a signal and after coming to a complete stop - the engine will drop RPM's after a slight pause (3 seconds after dead stop), the lights will dim, the engine will nearly stall and then the RPM's pop back up and the lights are on at full-bright? Any thoughts? Is this a transmission issue? Thanks.
I had to change two oxygen sensors, after I changed the number 1 sensor I could not go into reverse. They checked the codes and they told me it was the TMS sensor. Where is this located?
I have a 2002 ram 1500 2WD. When I slow down the transmission is shifting hard, when I take off the transmission shifts fine, this problem just started. If anyone has an please advise me what it is.
You may have too much line pressure. There is a cable that goes from the throttle body to the trans. It controls line pressure. You can adjust it down a little but be carefull not to back it off too much as you will get slipping of the trans clutches. It's very sencitive! I would first check your rear most U joint as it is the one that gets the most wear. A bad U joint will cause a clunk too! Good luck to you friend. Cheers, kc.
I have a 2002 Dodge ram 1500, drove it last night, parked it. went to use it this morning and there is a little red light that is rapidly flashing on the instrument panel and the truck wont start. nothing will turn on, no lights radio nothing, any ideas what this could be?
I have a 05 3500 and my trans will not come out of first. But I can stop and put it back into park, and then again into drive and it wil go to third gear and then shift into overdrive. Band adjustment has been suggested but just wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem. If so your know how would be greatly apprec.
will the engine still turn over? if so then that is the conditions that indicated a ECM failure(900.00 repair) on my truck.
try removing+Positive+ battery connection and leave it that way for a couple of minutes. re-connect +Positive+ connection and try to start truck.(maybe you'll get lucky)
Here's what I found to be the issue with my 96 dodge. The transmission would vary ~50-150 Rpms or so when cruising at road speeds. This was after a rebuild and had been giving me grief for quite some time not to mention more waisted money at the dealership. After searching through this site for ideas I checked the "transmission throttle valve cable" for proper adjustment. Well it was NOT adjusted as it should have been. I made the adjustment and the problem went away. I did purchase a new cable and return spring as the old cable seemed to be sticking a little and the spring because of age and loosing a little of its return tension. I think what was happening is that when I would let off the throttle a little the weak spring and the "not so smooth cable" wouldnt allow the TTV to move in sync with the throttle body butterfly. Just my observation, but all seems to be working again with NO variation in rpms when at road speed. The cost of the cable was about $75.00 and the spring was $3.50. Install time was less than a half hour including adjustments.
Yeah, I've been looking for a TSB and dealer said there isn't one. According to other posts, there are other folks who have this issue as well, but no resolution - atleast it doesn't stall - YET...
I need some big time help on this one. Ok like so many of the post before me when I drive my Dodge Ram 01 V6 Pick-Up, it will start doing some funny stuff. For example, when I first take-off i have to give it just the right amount of gas so it won't stall/ over-rev. Then I can fell that the transmission falls back down in to the lower gear and my tachometer is moving all about. It does this all the way to top gear and when I'm driving around 60-70 MPH it will periodically shift down and rev up to about 3.5 to 4 RPM for a second or so and then catch back on.
So now this is new: When I opened my hood, from when I first discovered this problem, I saw that there was a light oil all over the engine compartment and I couldn't deduce where the source of the leak was. What is confusing me about this fluid is that the transmission fluid level is going down and i have to replace it at the rate of half a quart a week, and that the AC on the truck went out simultaneously as the tranny problems started happening.
So to Lay it Down:
-Transmission Slipping
-Mystery Fluid in Engine Compartment
-AC unit not working well, after transmission problems started
-Need Help, I can change hoses and fluids, I'm a boiler maker, so i have a vague understanding of mechanics, I have tools, i just now very little about cars. Please help.
Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Went to drive my truck to an interview last week and it wouldn't shift past 2nd, drove it two days prior and it was fine, sort of came out of nowhere. Took it to Aamco and they said it wasn't listing any codes but the tranny fluid smelled burnt...
Give it to me straight...do I need to rebuild? It's got 110,000 miles on it, is it worth repairing?
Ok so really the problem is that hose that connects to radiator. All I need to know is what that line is called, and im gonna replace both of them the send and return. So what are they called, because no one at gay auto zone knows.
i have a 2001 dodge ram 1500 and lost reverse. i opened the transmission pan and found a small flat L shaped piece of metal about 1 inch long .could this be the problem? if so. can i fix it myself without pulling transmission?
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Ski in TX
Anyways i took my truck to the local Chrysler dealership after i took it in to get a tranny flush to see if that would help withe the engine light which said it was a TCC selenoid p1744 code(forget) What sucks is my warrenty didn't cover the tcc selenoid so i paid for it and install and what pisses me off is that i was charged for a tranny flush and new filter and pan when it already had all that stuff from the day before($133). That's when i felt it was all a scam.
They put the new tcc on(cost me $650 bucks with tranny flush and filter/pan), the check engine light came on after 127 miles, took it back since the part was covered by the service shop of the chrysler garage, said they would put a new tcc in, got that done, left light same code came on again after 112 miles, took back said they will clean and put new wire harness on, had that done light came on same code took back, said it was the flex plate or pressure plate whatever, had that done left light same code came on after 27 miles. Took it back, and by then the garage probably didn't want to pay for it anymore, so i get screwed more they say they want to put a new pump in then say they will contact my warrenty company, they say they won't cover it, so the service rep at the garage i want argued and got them to atleast get me a used tranny with 50,000+miles on it. They put it on which that cost me $550 bucks waiting to get a rebate check thing from warrenty for atleast $350 bucks, but i probably won't see that from them from what i have heard about Great Lakes Warrenty.
But the truck is running just fine after 90 miles so far. But i noticed the shifter when i shift it into D it is actually in D1 so in order to be in DRIVE, the shifter has to look like it is in N(neutral). I think the previous owners may have driven it in D1 and maybe driving it fast in that position let alone in Overdrive. That also could be the problem for some others, not sure. Anyways if the Check engine light comes on i will think it is the sensor.
ALSO how can i fix the shifter so it looks like it is in the proper position, so that others like my fiance can drive and not have to worry about her remembering that it has to look like it is in neutral?
Not sure if i will ever drive a dodge again, since this was the first Chrysler vehicle i ever bought. Before i only had Ford, Chevy. But i like the looks of Dodge and might take a chance someday, but this experience does make me sour towards dodge, warrenty companies, little dealerships, and big dealerships with the service departments.
About 30,000 miles ago I had the tranny flushed by a machine. The tranny started shifting funny a few weeks ago. I would give it the gas and it would shift up normally then sometimes it would not shift up, without letting off the gas a bit. I could sometimes take it easy and it would shift fine through the gears. Sometimes I could stand on it, and it would shift fine.
The other day it started as normal and will not shift up past 1st gear. I can go in reverse too without a problem. I can put the shifter into 1 and 2 and D and the truck will go but not past 1st gear.
I get NO codes but "P doNe."
"My first tranny went out with NO notice or acting funny at all. It just quit and the engine kept winding."
For the last year or so...If my truck would sit for a day or so, when I went to start it up, the transmission would have to build up pressure for a few seconds before it would finally grab hold and go after putting it in drive...I was told this was normal and not harmful.
I was told to change the filter and fluid, along with the governor pressure solenoid and sensor
Does this sound right? When I get the pan off can I do anything else that needs to be done like band adjustment, and to what spec? Taking into consideration the pan is not filled with debris. I guess a CLEAN pan is a GOOD pan. Can I tell if the right fluid has been used in it?
Thanks for any help you can give
ECM failure(900.00 repair) on my truck.
try removing+Positive+ battery connection and leave it that way for a couple of minutes. re-connect +Positive+ connection and try to start truck.(maybe you'll get lucky)
dump codes if you can.
I had the Governor solenoid and Governor sensor replaced...I had the fluid and filter changed and the bands adjusted...
It did not fix anything...$400 and the same problem...
The tranny guy said I had the normal stuff in the pan for 80,000 miles and a little more than the average...
Does anyone have any other ideas...
My next one will be a manual tranny...
Thanks, Cwise
So now this is new: When I opened my hood, from when I first discovered this problem, I saw that there was a light oil all over the engine compartment and I couldn't deduce where the source of the leak was. What is confusing me about this fluid is that the transmission fluid level is going down and i have to replace it at the rate of half a quart a week, and that the AC on the truck went out simultaneously as the tranny problems started happening.
So to Lay it Down:
-Transmission Slipping
-Mystery Fluid in Engine Compartment
-AC unit not working well, after transmission problems started
-Need Help, I can change hoses and fluids, I'm a boiler maker, so i have a vague understanding of mechanics, I have tools, i just now very little about cars. Please help.
Took it to Aamco and they said it wasn't listing any codes but the tranny fluid smelled burnt...
Give it to me straight...do I need to rebuild? It's got 110,000 miles on it, is it worth repairing?