I have 84 Ram with a A904 in her. It started to slip from time to time. I checked the fluid and noticed that it needed to be changed, this about 6 months ago. I did a filter and fluid change. Now if it sits for a day or so, it goes in rev & drive for only a short period of time. Could it be a torque converter or something worst?
hi guys i bought a 97 dodge ram 1500 4x4 318 automatic 2 weeks ago and just now started having trans problem,, it has ran and drove awesome for 2 weeks until the other day where now it wont shift from 2nd into thirs it high rev to about 3000rpms about 30-35 mph it can go higher and faster but i dont want to blow it up now the fluid has just been changed along with the filter and it looked real good no metal shavings or burnt smell good red color to it what do u think i should do
I have a 2007 dodge 2500 with a 5.9 turbo cummins diesel, at 45,000 miles my trans started to slip shifting from first to second gear. I drained the fluid and changed the filter, i checked the magnet in the pan for any large debris and there was nothing. Sometimes it will go into 2nd gear by itself fairly easy and other times I have to get the rpms up to 24 to 26 hundred before it will shift. does anyone have any advice?
Sell it or get a new trans.I just dropped 2300 on one and glad I did. No more trans problems for me to try to figure out.My old transmission was driving me nuts.
I have had my Ram 2500 4x4 V10 w/ 130,000 miles on it for a littele over a month and now the reverse is out. I have all other gears and it shifts fine, but no reverse. Has anyone ever heard of this and/or does anyone have any suggestions?? I went to a tranny shop and they said I basically need a complete rebuild, but that doesn't sound right considering all other gears are fine. Thanks Aaron.
I have a 2000 Ram 1500 5.9L and just recently had troubles. i was going down the road and my truck just wouldnt shift. I pulled over to the side of the road and waited about 5 mins and then it drove for about a block. I did that again and then got it towed to me house. There was no prior problems with it and it just did this all of a sudden. Hope someone can help.
I recently experienced the same problem along with a bouncing shift at low speeds. I have a Ram 1500 and I cured the problem by replacing the Gov Solenoid and Sensor inside of pan. Cost about 300 dollars. Parts were 211 at dealer and fluid was 70 at CARQUEST. Remove pan, Passenger side of valve body you will see Solenoid and sensor. Remove 3 bolts and 2 Allen head screws, gently pull solenoid strait down, Try not to jerk wires to hard, remove bracket from solenoid. On side of solenoid the connector has a latch remove connector; the sensor is on side of same area. Gently remove from body, the connector has a lock. Mine was red, retract lock and then release latch remove plug. Simple! Reinstall everything in reverse. Apply a small amount of fluid to O-rings prior to installing. Tighten bolts and Allen Screws. The valve body is Aluminum so don’t try to kill it. If you haven’t replaced filter and Gasket before you might as well do it now. The fluid is pricey and the job can be quite messy.
Chances are you have a A518(46RE) transmission. The sensor is located inside pan passenger side. If you so inclined to replace, I would recomend you replace the Govenor Solenoid as well. They are held in place with a common bracket. 3bolts and 2 Allen head screws hold bracket. I just replaced the set in my 01 Ram 1500 because of dropping out of OD and randomly throwing a code(P1740), Drove me nuts for about a week and a half, Mechanic couldn't seem to get a handle on it. So to limit costs, I did it myself and it was easy but messy, just 3 bolts and 2 Allen head screws. About an hour and a half and nearly $300 for parts, fluid and gasket filter set.
i have a dodge ram van 2500 with a 46rh trans i have rebiult and i still have the same problem and wers it was over heating and kicking out over drive wen i took it apart the first set of cluches in the rear were discolord now it still over heats and the same cluches are bernt when it stoped it it would go in gere and then stop pullin if i shut it off it will go in gear and then stop pulling again
Your tranny is overheating. The O/D light indicates overheat and the discolored and warped clutches are signs of overheating. Dodge has a small rubber ball (check valve) in each tranny cool line, about 4-8 inches from the radiator or tranny cooler. They mess up regularly. Take one line loose and start the truck, put it in gear. If tranny fluid does not squirt several feet, you have a plugged line, preventing fluid circulation. Pull them both out, or remove that portion of the tranny line. That will stop the over heating. Bobwinner
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4 & it`s been sitting in my driveway for awhile now. I was driving home from work & stopped at a light then went to take off & it would hardly move. I can watch the RPM`s rev up but it does`nt want to shift ( it`s automatic). I can take the cables off the battery & let it sit for about an hour then hook them up & it will drive for a bit then do it all over again. Anyone Know why??
I have a 99 Dodge ram 2500 4x4 with a 5.9 v8. I just put a new filter and shift solenoid in my automatic transmission. And still won't shift. Don't know what else to do.
I have a 99 durango which runs fine but starts out in 2nd gear at all stops and does not go into OD. I was told it could be the pressure sensor and the trans temp sensor and Gov. pressure solenoid. Any suggestions before I spend $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ on this thing?
There is only one other thing you can do, short of repacing the Transmission, that is to replace the Governor Solenoid and Sensor. They are located on the passenger side of transmission inside of pan. The Governor solenoid and sensor controls the shift points via the PCM
Did you ever get any answers to the no reverse problem? I have the same truck, I went to dinner Friday night every thing was fine parked the truck over the weekend then when I got in it Monday morning, no reverse.
I have a 98 Dodge Ram V-10, suddenly I have no reverse. I drove the truck into town Friday night, everything worked just fine. I parked it over the weekend and when I got in it to go Monday morning I had no reverse. All the foreward gears seem to work fine. Does anyone know whats up?
I am have a 2006 3500 Heavy Duty I just bought and am heaving transmission problems. It happens after I back up. I put into drive and it is like it doesn't want to shift. The Rs will go to almost 2600 RPMs in 1st gear and then shifts straight to third gear with a big slam. And then the same for the rest of the gears. Then when slowing down you can feel it down shifting to almost the point of sliding the tires when coming to a lower gear. When I come to a stop and if I put it back into park and then back to drive again it works just fine. I just changed the Trans Fluid thinking that this would help but it did not. Has any body heard of this happening before and what can be done to fix this problem?
Hello All, I have an 05 ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.7 with 56k on it. I started to have this problem when it got real cold in december, it starts fine, idles fine, runs great until i get to the first stop then it feels like it's stuck in gear almost like if you leave a clutch engaged to long on a stick shift, sometimes it dies if it doesn't then the idle drops every time I come to a stop I have noticed that the idle seems a little low it was at 700 now it stays at 500 unless i two foot it and tap the gas peddle, now that it is warmer the truck only does it after it's warmed up maybe 20 minutes of driving or so, I had a trans flush done at 32k replaced the fluid with ATF+4 but i used an aftermarket filter kit, i also replaced the throttlebody and had some update done that this dodge tech that i do business with told me was for that problem, buy the way i have no check engine light on either, I'm at my wits end, anybody with any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks
I had a similar problem and all I had to do was add a special additive to my differential. I bought it from Dodge, and it took a few days to really work itself in, but it did solve my problem. That may be worth a try. bobwinner
Based on what you have stated, I feel it not be the Transmission nor the rear differential. It sounds more like you have an Idle control problem. You may notice it is more likely to die when you slow down suddenly, if you gently slow down( coast to the intersection then apply brakes) it idles rough. Have your mechanic check the Idle control sensor/solenoid. You stated that you replaced the throttle body, does that mean you replaced the Throttle position sensor and the,(I not sure you have one) Idle air solenoid. Your problem may be as simple as faulty wire or loose conection. Hope these thoughts help!
I have a 2005 3500 diesel. It runs great except?? At start up, it idles rough and smokes. At RPM, it is smooth, and get great MPG, but my tailgate gets covered with oil spots. If I remove the oil fill cap, there is WAY excessive blowby. ???
i have what they call a fly by wire throttlebody it's all electronic when i talked to the guy at dodge he told me the tps and the idle air control is in the throttlebody when i replaced it there was no change still did the same thing
hey i have the same problem. drive about 10 miles in overdrive, then it kicks out ,and i can't use the overdrive button anymore, then about 5 miles the trans temp light comes on. I've had it worked on 5 times new valve, overdrive rebuilt, overdrive switch, cooling sensor, and so on please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When your problem arises, stop and feel of your transmission cooler. It looks like a radiator, but has two transmission lines running to it. Unless it is HOT, you have aplugged cooling system. Probably the rubber check balls in the lines, within 5-6 inches of where they connect to the coller. remove them and try your truck again. bobwinner
2003 Ram 2500 4X4 5.7 Hemi. 112K miles. After sitting overnight, when first started and put in gear it is as if in neutral until engine is revved up,then slowly goes into gear. Not always, but at least 50% of the time. Once moving it is fine in every way. Only once has it done it when sitting for 1/2 hour. Usually when put in gear it is ready to go. Any ideas? Fluid level correct. Weather not cold either.
My transmission doesnt want to shift into 2nd or 3rd gear. When the rpm reaches the level to shift, the transmission slips. I can let off the fuel for a second or two, and the rpm slows wya down and the truck will then shift into 2nd, then directly into third and go on. When the truck is in 4th gear, at low highway speed, I can accelerate hard to force the truck to shift into 3rd, and the truck will again slip.
I have checked the fluid level in the transmission and there are no "check engine" lights coming on... Can someone help, or has anyone had simular problems?
I just joined the site 5 minutes ago, so forgive me if this has been addressed.. I have an 01 2500 automatic, diesel, and while my truck was down so I could put a new hydroboost unit on it I was using my sons jeep. I came home from work, being gone 2 days to find a lot of trans fluid underneath. It appears to be coming from the union of the trans to the transfer case. I'm hoping this doesn't indicate a rebuild? Has anyone had this issue, and what was the fix? Thanks in advance!
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 with the 5.9 V8 with about 120,000. Recently (like last 2 weeks) it has started to almost skip 2nd gear when under pressure like climbing a hill or stepping on the gas. It works and shifts just fine when rolling down the highway, but this weekend when I got back home I went to shut the truck off it wont let me put the truck in park or reverse. I can put it in neutral and any forward position (D,2,1) and drive forward, but no matter what I do I cant get it past the selector to go to reverse or park. Any thoughts? Thanks
i used a steele rod to narrow a soft pounding noise to the bellhousing. changed fluid & found some sludge & very small brass colored shaving. refilled with fluid & still have the noise everything else seems to be working fine. 63000 mi. on truck i pull a 17000 lb gooseneck also this is 4wheel drive thanks
There is a brass bushing in the factory torque converter that goes out and slowly grinds away. It eventually will clog the valve body and cause erratic shifting. This happened to me. Replace your torque converter with a quality afyermarket unit before it gets to the rest of the tranny. With your towing requirements i highly recomend a triple disc billet one by one of the many available ie. banks, ats, etc.
just had tranny rebuilt; and now after it warms up awhile it stays in D from a dead stop and not shifting into first like it should....symptoms for the rebuild were as follows: o/d kicked off; tranny temp light came on; then would not shift out of first with erratic clanking coming from inside.... my mechanic is thinking it might be in the wiring.....he went ahead and tried replacing solinoids again but that wasn't it..... ANY SUGGESTIONS......
thanks for the info but funds are a little tight as im in construction i just checked out what a new tc cost. can i replace the bushing or is this just not a good idea
I've been having somewhat of the same problem too.. Trying to keep a consistant or slow climbing speed of 75-85 km/hr it seems to hicup between gears and rev's 1500 to 2000 and back. Although mine is a 2001 Dodge 2500 Diesel 4X4. I'm getting a diagnostic ran on it tomorrow, but i was wondering if you had gotten any hits on this? If you could shoot me back and let me know.. not to mention that i could see what my mach has to say and let you know as well!!!
I don't know how this works, but my email is trackstar_106@hotmail.com
i'm working on a 01 dodge 3500 van of my father in-laws,it has a 318 engine. it gave code ( 1762 i think ) anyway it was the governor pressure sensor. so i bought both the sensor and transducer and when i went to install them i clean the pan and found a metal ring broke in several pieces and a round dough nut( but not as big)looking piece that is magnetic. anyone know what it is.
The doughnut you refer to is indeed a magnet and its designed to catch all the unwanted metal shavings and trash in your transmission and isolates them from circulating throughout your tranny clean it off and re install it as for the metal ring I would need to see pictures to help with diagnosing the parts I have seen all kinds of stuff on those magnets from cotter pins to bolts you would be amazed at the stuff dodge transmissions shed. Good luck and keep us updated as to if it solves your problem. Also check the transmission line check valve. Its located on the return line about 6 inches from the cooler that check valve goes bad and causes terrible issues!
thanks for the quick reply. the ring parts that i'm refering to is coming from up inside the transmission. i can see parts of the ring still there. how can i send u pics of the parts of rings that i have.
My Husband and I have a 98 dodge 2500 cummings turbo diesel 5.9 that we have been told it was the transmission or torque. When you get it up to about 40 to 45 MPH it doesn't want to shift right. We even changed the transmission filter and fluids. It still does not want to shift right and keeps getting worse. The truck has 170,000 miles on it. Does anyone have any suggestions or know what it may be?
MY 97 RAM 4 SP AUTO [4 WH DRIVE].LOCKS UP IN DRIVE & OD USUALLY IN HOT CONDITION SITTING IN TRAFFIC OR A HOT DAY.IT WONT EVEN MANUAL PULL DOWN EXCEPT TO 2ND . IT SEAMS HEAT RELATED BUT I SHOT IT WITH A TEMP GUN APP 165 DEG .BUT DEFINATILY HEAT RELATED . AFTER IT COOLS .HR OR 2 ITS OK UNTILL IT GET HEATED AGAIN, ONLY CODES I GET ARE GOV PRESS OFF SO I PUT GOV & SENSOR & COMPLETE CHANGE TO ATF+4 SYN .BUT NO HELP DIDNT REPROGRAM ANYTHIND JUST PULLED CABLES TO LET IT RESET ITSELF .STILL GET THE SAME CODE? HAVENT FOUND A HONEST TRANNEY SHOP TO HELP, O & WHEN GOV REPLACEMENT PAN LOOKED GOOD THERE WAS VERY VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF ALUM IN PAN I THOUGHT FROM PULLING OFF IN 2 SO MANY TIMES .1 MORE THING WHEN IT LOCKS IF ITS IN 1 AT LOCKUP IT WILL STAY THERE & WIND UP UNTILL LET IDLE IT JUMPS STRAIGHT TO DRIVE OCCASIONALLY IT DID JUMP TO DRIVE AT WOUND UP TIGHT CONDITION & IT SLAMED MAYBE CAUSING THE METAL IN PAN , BUT COLD THE THING IS PERFECT.EVERY TIME ,WHAT CAN I DO NEXT?
I had the same problem with my durango 1999 I changed out the PCM or ECU if you want, and it works fantastic. call and ask for Jim at 888-664-8787 for about $180. bucks your troubles can be over. It comes with life time wattanty and the newest programming. Ask about there ebay specials. What dodge or chrys, doesn't tell the public is that the pcm's only last about 10yrs and you lucky if you get more. I also have a ram pick up 1995 starting to hesitate and shudder when cold this one has to be rebuilt by the same co.
i need help with the problem i'm having. i have a 98 dodge ram ss/t with a 5.9 gas engine, i just had the transmission rebuilt, TC, PUMP,clutches, sensors, governor, valve body and they even replace the trans case at one point and also the chk ball in the pressure line was replaced and when the trans shifts from 2nd to 3rd it will disengage or slip out of gear SOMETIMES and other times its find. they have been through the trans so many times and can't find the problem..
Comments
Could it be a torque converter or something worst?
i bought a 97 dodge ram 1500 4x4 318 automatic 2 weeks ago and just now started having trans problem,, it has ran and drove awesome for 2 weeks until the other day where now it wont shift from 2nd into thirs it high rev to about 3000rpms about 30-35 mph it can go higher and faster but i dont want to blow it up now the fluid has just been changed along with the filter and it looked real good no metal shavings or burnt smell good red color to it what do u think i should do
Remove pan, Passenger side of valve body you will see Solenoid and sensor. Remove 3 bolts and 2 Allen head screws, gently pull solenoid strait down, Try not to jerk wires to hard, remove bracket from solenoid. On side of solenoid the connector has a latch remove connector; the sensor is on side of same area. Gently remove from body, the connector has a lock. Mine was red, retract lock and then release latch remove plug. Simple! Reinstall everything in reverse. Apply a small amount of fluid to O-rings prior to installing. Tighten bolts and Allen Screws. The valve body is Aluminum so don’t try to kill it. If you haven’t replaced filter and Gasket before you might as well do it now. The fluid is pricey and the job can be quite messy.
Has any body heard of this happening before and what can be done to fix this problem?
I have an 05 ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.7 with 56k on it. I started to have this problem when it got real cold in december, it starts fine, idles fine, runs great until i get to the first stop then it feels like it's stuck in gear almost like if you leave a clutch engaged to long on a stick shift, sometimes it dies if it doesn't then the idle drops every time I come to a stop I have noticed that the idle seems a little low it was at 700 now it stays at 500 unless i two foot it and tap the gas peddle, now that it is warmer the truck only does it after it's warmed up maybe 20 minutes of driving or so, I had a trans flush done at 32k replaced the fluid with ATF+4 but i used an aftermarket filter kit, i also replaced the throttlebody and had some update done that this dodge tech that i do business with told me was for that problem, buy the way i have no check engine light on either, I'm at my wits end, anybody with any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks
I have checked the fluid level in the transmission and there are no "check engine" lights coming on... Can someone help, or has anyone had simular problems?
THANKS! :
my mechanic is thinking it might be in the wiring.....he went ahead and tried replacing solinoids again but that wasn't it.....
ANY SUGGESTIONS......
I don't know how this works, but my email is trackstar_106@hotmail.com
Thanx
Dee
transmission and isolates them from circulating throughout your tranny clean it off and re install it as for the metal ring I would need to see pictures to help with diagnosing the parts I have seen all kinds of stuff on those magnets from cotter pins to bolts you would be amazed at the stuff dodge transmissions shed. Good luck and keep us updated as to if it solves your problem. Also check the transmission line check valve. Its located on the return line about 6 inches from the cooler that check valve goes bad and causes terrible issues!
Can anyone out there help me ?