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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Electrical Problems



  • i own a 1995 s10 zr2 and one of my inline fuses burnt up nad now my heat,windsheild wipers,and raido wont work and also my brake light and abs light wont shut off in my dashbord. iv tryed replacing the wires but as soon as i connect them they just burn up again i think its a ground problem but thats where my knolage stops ......any advice on how to fix this please its winter in mighigan and that truck is my only transportation
  • Not sure how competant you are, but here are some things you can try. I'm assuming that this is a fusible link, not wire that is burning up. You have a dead short. If it is a fusible link, the amps are very high to burn it up.

    You were not clear on fuse number, location, or if it is a fusible link or not. Here's some advise. What ever is on that circut, that you know of, un plug it. There may also be something like a cigerette lighter or dome light that isn't even mentioned on a wiring diagram connected to that circut. Your ABS may also be part of that circut, unplug the plug at the ABS unit. If the circut that is shorted is a 30amp or less, purchass a 30amp circut breaker and wire it in for temporary testing. If the circut breaker trips whith everthing unplugged, it is either shorted wiring, or something that is on that circut you don't know about. Recommend an auto electrical shop at this point. If your lucky, and the problem has gone away with the various devices unplugged. Start plugging them in one at a time until the short re-apears. You have then isolated at least what system is causing the problem, and can either leave it unplugged, or trouble shoot it from there.

    From the things you mentioned, most common are a shorted ABS unit, shorted blower motor for the heater, or a shorted cigerett lighter if it is on that circut.Good luck with it.
  • Hello all,

    I have a 96 sonoma v6 and i was leaking antifreeze from my intake manifold gasket.
    I pulled everything out of the way and put a new gasket in myself and put everything back. the problem now is i have no power! When i turn the key i dont get any dash lights, not even the interiors work. It is like no power is going through it at all i cant start the truck or anything its dead. i have checked all the fuses and they are all fine and he battery and alernator are new :cry: . Someone please help me out. Thank you
  • Check for the obvious first;

    Battery fully charged, connections good, positive and negative. Now what may have happened is there are some fusible links connected to the positive post on your starter that may have been pulled loose during removal of the manifold. These power your ignition switch amoung other things. The wiring harness runs down your firewall between the manifold. During your repair you may have pulled them loose. You need to verify that power is going through those all the way up the harness. Down on your starter, the positive post has the positive battery cable connected to it, and also some other 10 guage fusible links. Those fusible links are connected to 10 guage wire, usually red, orange and yellow wire that makes part of the harness. The fusible links themselves are only about 6 inches long. Make sure the wires they are connected to have power to them. Fusible link is tricky, they may look ok, but you have to test it with a test light. Check that then repost. Good luck.
  • Thank you! problem fixed!
  • i need help i have a 95 gmc sonoma with a 2.2 in it and all my dash lights are very dim except to seatbelt light my gages dont work, brake lights and turn signals dont work but my headlights and hazard lights work. my fuel pump doesnt kick on and it will crank over but wont start. i checked fuses , batt cables, relays . i think it might have a bad ground but it has a ground to batt to engine,engine to body , and body to batt. im running out of opions please help me :cry:
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Check out ignition switch at base of column, not key switch.
  • I have a 95 S10. Experienced a power failure that seemed like Alternator and car died. Removed altenator and battery, both battery and alternator check ok. With full charged battery, car is dead, no power anywhere.

    What are likely causes.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Buy a 12 volt test light and start testing. The battery positive should go to the starter, every thing feeds from there.
  • i got a 1995 chevy s10 2.2 that i bought off of a friend. it stopped running on them and they messed around with it alittle...then i got it...put a new sending unit, fuel pump, but there is no power going to anytthing in the fuel area....there is a orange wire that goes to the oil sending unit and when we tested it,,, it had very little power almost none....that goes for the rest of the sensor... could it be the pcm? the relay in the glove box clicks each time you turn the key to on....what are the rest of the relays for? :mad: if you pour starting fluid or gas down the air intake it will run and then it runs out of gas and stops....
    Any ideas? im about to loose it with this truck......thanks
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Check out the ignition switch at the base of the steering column, not the key one. A known problem area.
  • Let me explained how the system is powered so you can trouble shoot it from there. Upon turning the key on you get a 2 second prim. The PCM powers up the relay for about 2 seconds until it knows the engine is running. If your not getting any power at all back at the pump, I would check the power to the relay. The relay is usually located on the firewall engine compartment passenger side. Your year and model requiers a ground signal from the oil pressure switch to keep the fuel pump powered up. I don't think this will be your problem though. The symptom of that is usually a start up for about 2-3 seconds then dies. What is common is the battery power to the fuel pump relay that is tripped when the PCM sends power to the relay. So you have to first verify PCM power when key is turned on at the relay, and battery power. If battery power is missing it is most likely a fusible link.

    One method of testing you might try, I doubt you have a power probe so you can temporarely run a fused wire from the battery all the way to the necessarry wire to power the pump. GM the wire is usually a grey wire in the harness going to the pump. Be sure to either fuse or use a 12v circut breaker rated at 30amps for this test is case your dealing with a short of some kind. If the vehicle runs after this test, its just a matter of finding out why it is not getting power.
  • ya theres power at the relay and we replaced the relay, it clicks each time you turn the key. i use a meter to see if there was power so im good there. also we ran a jumper wire from the battery so the fuel pump and the fuel pump ran and built pressure but it still wouldn't start....could the ignition module , pcm , or anything that controls the fuel injectors stop power? thanks
  • I have recently replaced the head gasket on a 1997 Chevrolet S-10. Now there is not any power when the key is turned on, for any lights, or any accessories. I have used a circuit tested and determined the frame and engine are correctly grounded to the battery. I have also been able to short out the solenoid to get the starter to turn the engine over. One of the other two positive cables from the battery is securely to the alternator. The other cable has been traced to the ABS pump. The circuit tested shown a good power supply to the pump, but I can't find a branch off of it for the rest of the truck. I also had the battery tested, and it showed to have a 100% charge.

    Does any one have any suggestions? I have spent a lot of time trying to find the in line fuse that is blown, or the connection that has come loose. Thank you.

    :sick: :confuse:
  • 1997 was one of the transition years for electrical protection for GM.

    Sounds like a fusible link or blown maxi fuse. The power to your ignition switch is feed by some 8-10 guage yellow and pink wire at the switch. Those wires run through a harness down to to positive post on your starter. There are some fusible links that are connected to those wires that then connect to that positive post. Fusible link is tricky. It looks like wire and may appear ok, but you must test to verify power is going through the link to where it connects to the regular wire leading to your switch. GM usually runs this harness down a metal tube that is between your firewall and engine. Obviously you have power to the starter. So, find those 3-4 wires [fusible links] comming off that positive post on the starter and tug on them gently to see which wires they are connected to up by your firewall. Test those wires for power up by the firewall with a test light[usually yellow and pink wire]. If no power, replace the fusible links.

    If you have a power distribution box under your hood, there is a chance that it is a blown main maxi fuse. It really depends on the type of circut protection that was used on your vehicle. If you don't have a second fuse box in the engine compartment, then you have the fusible link design that GM used going directly to your ignition switch.
  • there is 2 ground wires coming off of the negative battery terminal, find where they go and clean them, make sure the surface they are getting bolted to are clean too, i did this and my headlights and everything were tons brighter and everything worked..hope this helped
  • You need to troubleshoot to find out what all is missing.

    Here is what you need for the internal combustion engine to run;

    Fuel, not contaminated, fuel pressure.

    Power to the injectors, key on, dash lights on. During cranking they are saturated{pulsed by the PCM} PCM uses info from cam sensor to pulse injecters as long as a ground signal is found by the oil pressure switch[some models].

    Spark to each plug, 30-40kv I think is the spec

    Compression, engine timing and air. Find out wich one you are missing and go from there with a repost.
    Your original post you stated that you were just missing power to the fuel pump. If you have multiple systems that are not getting power, its probably a fusible link or ignition switch failure. You need to test for power to the injecters, test for their pulse , power to the coil and or spark. Test these for power and function and repost.

    I dont know what tools you have but you need at least a test light and fuel pressure guage.
  • I had my oil changed at a mr.lube since I did'nt feel like getting dirty and what not. After the service was done I left everything was working great until I tried my signal lights. Nethier side worked (even the blinkers in the cab) but my hazzards still work as if nothing was wrong. I went back to mr.lube and they just told me that it would have been nothing that they would have touched to cause this. I checked the fuses and all are fine (backup and turn light are on the same fuse), I'm guessing a loose wire or ground but I have no idea where to begin looking, any suggestions?
  • Most likely its a bad flasher.
  • Where would I find the flasher at?
  • I have a unique problem that no shops have been able to figure out as of yet. It has a 4.3 with a 135,000 miles. I have replaced the distributor,cap,wires,plugs,throttle position sensor,and numerous other parts in the ignition system. The problem is when driving under load the the rpms flutter a little and there is a clicking noise from under the hood or under the dash. If I floor the throttle this issue goes away. It is setting a p0300 code and also showing cylinder 6 misfire. It used to stall out when this happened, but I fixed the stalling issue thanks to a G.M. T.S.B., that was for an internal ground that had to be bypassed. Any ideas or help with this issue would be greatly appreciated.
  • well we replaced a few parts and we have power everywhere exept to the fuel pump...we replaced the relay but still nothing...could it be the oil sending unit? and theres power to the relay but none to the fuel pump.....cry cry lol but it would be great it i could get this truck running...... thanks for any info you can give me
  • For everyone whos cluster lights are out if you have replaced the factor cd player the problem is your dimmer switch the new CD players and Satilite radio transmitters blow the switch. if you still want a custom deck there is a factory line conecter you can get to fix the problem before it happens the only place i have found the conecter is at wal-mart
  • i have 3 different problems the first is i have no dash lights on the heater and ac area the second is my gas gauge shows full all the time but i have ran out a couple times so obviously there is a problem the third is there is a ticking sound that actually sounds like a cigarette lighter popping it seems like it is coming from under the dash if anyone can help PLEASE let me know
  • fepjrfepjr Posts: 3
    i've got a 99 s-10, died on the way home,had it towed, checked the fuel pump replaced the fuel filter, new alternator, new starter and battery,
    nothing leaking, when i start it the battery gauge goes normal, and the fuel gauge works, the oil pressure gauge and the temp don't which sounds normal when not starting.
    turns over fine, but just doesn't ignite
    any ideas?????
  • fepir i might be confused are saying it wiil or won`t start? if it won`t it may be a inline fuse from the alt. or down to the starter. let know mags.
  • fepjrfepjr Posts: 3
    mags, it will not start, it has a brand new alternator and brand new starter on it,
    it seems to turn over without any problem, it acts like its not getting any gas,
    just keeps turning over,
    i changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump while i had the fuel line off and the pump was working fine

  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Will it start when you spray carb cleaner in the intake.
  • fepjrfepjr Posts: 3
    that hasn't worked, either, have tried everything that i know
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    So you are saying with spark and fuel no start.
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