i've got a '96 2.2l 5spd. and everything , i mean everything works down to the lighter, courtesy light and all bulbs in between. i guess i'm the lucky one :shades:
i left the key on overnight and had a dead battery, i put the charger on it without disconnecting batt., then started it, with charger still hooked up, i think i killed my alternator, when truck is running, and i take the neg. batt. cable off it shuts down. battery light is on, guages failed, i needed a new batt. anyway, so i bought one, the guages work, 4 now, i drove to work, but left it there, so i didnt have to drive home at night using lights. seems like alt., but i would hate to buy and install, and find out its a brain, or wire harness, or something. any advice is appreciated. chevy s10 2000
First, NEVER, ever connect a battery charger to a automobile with battery cables connected as the amperage from charger is much different thatn that of the charging system. You said that while truck is running you disconn the neg. cable and it dies...do the same thing but disconnect the pos. Does it die? Do you have a voltmeter? If you do, start the truck and check voltage at the battery (black lead to neg. cable, red to positive) Your charging system should be putting out 13.8-14.5 volts. If it is not, replace the alternator. Also, most parts stores will test your alternator for free....simply remove the alternator and they will put it in a carbo load tester with a "pass/fail" result. This does sound like an alternator issue. If it where a harness or computer you would get a check engine light and other systems of the truck would not work. Feel free to email me should you need furher assistance. kngjmz.1@gmail.com
After reading your post I realize that I am not the only one with this exact problem. When you spoke about the watching the volt guage float from 14 I literally had "deajavue" of driving in my 98' Sonoma. Since it has been over 4 years since your last post I am wondering if you found your problem and if so...WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM!?!? Please help! Thanks! :confuse:
Hello there. I see that I am by no means the only person that has major electrical problems with my 98' GMC Sonoma 5 speed. Tonight, I just replaced my 3rd battery in the past 1 1/2 years...luckily I purchased a battery with 3 year replacement for FREE! Anyways, this is what my truck does to annoy me...
Sometimes it will drive fine all day, but others it barely wants to get a mile and the volt guage will fluctuate after staying pinned at 14 it will "float" a bit below 14 and if I use my blinker or some other electric instrument it goes down as well. Another thing it does is when I am driving the guages will all of a sudden go crazy...the MPH and RPM guage will go way high and then go all the way down. The other guages will act eratic as well and then the truck will shut off. Sometimes it will start right back up, but other times I will have to pull over and pray that it will start again. Tonight it didn't start at all...wouldn't jump-start either so I returned my battery for a new one, replaced it, and then proceeded to drive about 8 miles to my house without a single issue except I noticed the volt meter dip a bit when I used my blinker.
I've had my starter replaced, and the battery and alternator have been checked and all check out fine. I've been told it could be a speed sensor, but the AAMCO told me that manual transmissions don't have a speed sensor?! The fuel pump has been recently replaced as well, but because it was shot. I see that many people have electrical problems with this vehicle and was hoping that you could give me a bit of advice on where to go next. Thanks! :confuse:
My 96 S-10 2.2 5 speed runs great with 300,000 miles but lately has been loosing all electrical power. It stalls and goes completely black. even the presets on the radio are erased. Turn the key nothing, no interior or exterior lights nothing. A few minutes later it runs fine again. I think this has happened while driving but the momentum just restarted the motor. I had battery checked and replaced two days ago. Alternator replaced a year a go.
i have a 1999 chevy s-10 with a 2.2. When i have the car running and no lights on, the day time running lights do not come on. When i turn the lights on no head lights come on. Just the running lights. If i play with the column and put it in drive i can get the running lights on. Anyone have any suggestions???
when i am having issues i get nothing, not even the dome light. however, if i turn the ignition, my gagues will start to rise or flicker. I have to disconnect the battery then reconnect and everything will come back on and it will start. as i am driving, i can hear the alternator in the speakers and the dask lights flicker. i have replaced the ignition switch and alternator. thinkg short someplace or a switch. it has gradually got worse. today i had to jump it bypassing the battery. Any ideas?
If I had to guess, I'd say you have a bad ground. A major one, like the cable to the block, or the block to the frame, etc. Next time it happens, try just jerking on the cables and see if it comes back on. I just had this happen with my 79 Chevy truck. I turned on the headlights, which barely glowed, and started pulling on cables. When the lights came alive, I new where the problem was. It turned out to be where the negative cable went into the cable-end attached to the battery (Autozone junk).
Thanks for the idea, i was leaning toward that too. 160K and never changed cables. The 2 positive cables are wraped together and then break apart and go their own way. was thinking of the ground or that the 2 cables were arcing. won't be able to get to it until Friday but will let you know what i find out.
My son is having the same headlight issue with his 95 S10. Also, the horn won't work when the dome lights do work and visa versa... its crazy. I'm concerned about the headlight issue and will have him try this tonight. Glad I found this forum. From what I gleaned... could be cables or a relay. He doesn't hear the clicking that the other guys posted.
I have a 2001 S10 with 4,3L engine. The right rear turn signal and the rear right brake light dos not work. The bubl is ok. I've switched the right and left bubl. I've also measured the voltage on both right and left sockets for the bulb, it gives the same reading. Any suggestion?
had the same problem exactly was actually driving and it died...replaced everything the same as you and it still wouldn't start 400 bucks and 6 mechanics later I pulled the distributor and it looked ok but replaced it anyways...when i compared the new one to the old one i noticed the old one had alot more "play" in it....think i paid under 100 bucks for it, ran like a champ pulling my 5th wheel ever since
Not working: -Rear passenger light cluster -wiper jets -Cruise control -Radio does not turn off w/ ignition (does turn off if passenger door opens and closes but not driver side) -Airbag warning on and off
These were all issues when I purchased the truck, I just didn't realize it. Is it possible there is a single issue causing all of these probs or is it more likely there are separate issues for each one?
At first glance it appears that they are all separate issues.
wiper jets - clogged or disconnected hose. cruise control - disconnected vacuum radio not turning off - faulty door switch (does the cab light come on when you open the driver door?) air bag warning - loose air bag connector or some other faulty sensor. get this checked... would hate for an inadvertent air bag to go off. rear passenger light cluster - ???? what is this?
these are just quick and simple fixes and where I would start diagnosing. After that eliminating the easy ones, then I would dig into it deeper.
Hi all, I am having a problem with my s10's volt meter. Upon starting my car my voltage meter inside my dash varies, going from 14 volts to about around 11 then back up. Also the "check battery" light goes on and off sparatically. I thought it was a battery problem so i replaced it...no luck. I thought it could be the alternator. Replaced it.... no luck. After replacement it worked for about 2 months and then once again this problem came back. I replaced it again and still the problem is here. If anyone has a clue how to get this problem resolved please let me know. Thank you in advanced!
check the ground wires from the battery and alternator to the frame. Also check and replace the battery cables. Even if they don't look bad on the outside, corrosion can build up on the inside.
bonjour a tous,j'ai un probleme avec mon klaxon les lumiere du tableau de bort le plafonnier tout ca ne marche pas et quand j'allume mes lumiere de route la fane interieur se mets en marche
I am having the exact same problem with my 2002 Sonoma. Did you ever find the problem? One thing I noticed is that if I turn the ignition key only 1/2 way the Odometer and PRNDL lights both come on??? However, my Odometer now reads in km instead of miles??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
2000 S-10 2.2L 4cyc: After I start p/u the starter will not stop running, I have to pull the relay out of the fuse block in engine compartment to stop the starter form running. I replaced the starter today with a new one but still have same problem. After engine is shut off I can replace the relay until next time i start truck. I'm wondering if it could be a bad ignition switch? Anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions would be most helpful.
I'm having a problem with my radio on my 1990 gmc s15. Every time I open the driver or passenger door the radio goes blank and then when I shut the door it comes back on but it resets itself. I've checked all my connections and there good so I don't know what it could be. If any one could help that would be great.
Im having problems with my headlights and dash lights flickering while car driving/running , i have bran new alt, and battery , ive checked cables and grounds all seem good also checked all bulb connections and also seem ok , and also when i turn a sharp corner sometimes the vehicle dies out . Can any1 shoot some ideas as to what may be causen this my why ? Would be greatly appreciated .TY
Could be a loose electrical cable or ground wire that is vibrating while you drive (causing the light flicker), then loses contact on hard turns (causing the stall).
My husband's 2005 Chevy S-10's dashboard control panel has gone haywire. First it was the speedometer, which would jump around from 10 to 100 mph at any speed. Then the gas gauge stayed on empty no matter how much gas was there. Now the oil gauge wags like a puppy's tail (yes, he just had an oil change and they assured him there was nothing wrong). Nothing on the control panel can be trusted, and the warning beeps are insane. Is this a wiring issue or a computer issue? And about how much does it cost to replace the computer, if that's the problem?
Send the dash out and have it rebuilt. Check Ebay, there are several people on there that do that kind of work. It usually costs between $200 and $300.
My sons is away for a few month and whenever I try start his truck after a week or so the battery is dead. I just charged the battery and load tested it is fine.
I also just finished testing the electrical circuit via Amp meter between battery ground terminal and ground wire.
I discovered I have .22 amp draw when everything is off. I pulled all the fuses and when I pulled the interior light fuse the amperage draw went down to .02 amps.
I pulled all the bulbs in the system I could find: light dome, under dash left right lights, mirror left right reading lights and finally glove box and locked doors, waited for circuit to complete cycle no change amperage draw when everything I unplugged off still .22 amp so nothing I can find staying off due to faulty switch or closure
The truck does not have a under hood light that I can find.
I did notice when you lift outside handles it activates light circuit is there any way of disconnected each door circuit to test?
What circuit am I missing. Is there something else connected to this circuit I am not finding??
I have a 1989 gms s15, when you turn the heater on, it runs rough, like its not gettin g any gas, but if its in park its ok, but going down the road with the heater on, it avts like its running out of gas, jumping, sputtering, and acting all kinds a crazy, i am completely lost and need some advice..anyone?
I just thought I would post a little story about my electrical gremlins in my 1999 Sonoma. Last week I left work at 10 pm and turned onto a dark road. My normal headlights were working fine but when I switched to my high beams, all went dark! My side running lights, turn and emergency flashers, brake and tail lights all still worked, but when I clicked off the high beams, my normal low beams came on but the high beam indicator stayed lit! I feared the worst and down loaded the complete electrical diagrams and studied the heck out of them. I checked the fuses, relays, switch functions but everything checked out OK. What had me confused was the high beam indicator that never went out no matter which position the high/low selector relay was in. I was sure there was a major problem. Lo and behold, it turns out I had two, TWO blown high beam bulbs! The indicator was telling me to "check the damn bulbs you idiot!" The bulbs were the original 15 year old units, and it hadn't occurred to me to start simple. I had just gone though a batch of 3 faulty alternators after the factory original died last month so I was worried something major was happening! Two lessons learned here: 1) When diagnosing start with the simple stuff, all the simple stuff (Occum's Razor applies). and 2) Don't buy cheap auto parts, you get what you pay for!
I know these are old post but I thought I would give some help as my truck has done the same thing as every one else here. I checked every thing just like you did but I had a idea it was some thing else as my radio and car alarm/entry remote gave me problems also ..the fault lies in the bcm or body control module it controls all the electronics and the computer ..I changed mine out and have had no problems since doing so..and yes it does control the dash functions as well google what it does and the list is way to long to post here so I wont hope this helps.
Could use some help i have a 97 s-10 with a 2000 model motor...I have had no electrical problems up untill about a month or two ago...it seems like every month it has a spurt where it will die when the headlights are turned on...it runs fine and drives fine till the headlights come on and it instantly dies...PLZ help
I have a '98 s10 2wd 2.2l. I am having the exact same problem. The voltage gauge pulsates with the turning signals and drops when I put it in reverse or put any extra load on the electrical system and sometimes it drops completely and the truck dies. I had a guy look at it and after a lot of searching, testing connections, and cleaning grounds, he decided to hook a volt meter up to the battery and turn the turning signal on and the meter on the battery read a steady 14.2 to 14.3 volts while the gauge in the truck was fluctuating up and down in the 12s or 13s. he came to the conclusion that the gauge must going bad and being that the gauge is what excites the voltage regulator, whenever it finally goes out, the vehicle wont charge and the only way to fix that is a new cluster.
I have a Chevy s10 2-wheel drive extended cab. My high beams work but my daylight running lights won't work. I replaced the Ambient sensor, headlight controls, and the relay module inside the fuse box in the engine. Anyone have this issue? If so what was the issue causing it. I'm getting ready to have the dealership do a diagnostic test.
I have a 2003 Chevy s10 rwd V6 truck. I could've sworn my drl lights were the high beam lights. I took it to the dealership to have a diagnostic test done but all they told me was the drl are my low beams and showed me how to disable them by pressing the control button repeatedly. My drl lights won't come on during the day and my low beams are on day and night. Anyone have this problem and what was the problem needing to be fixed?
So, I have a 91 s10 2.5 that I picked up off of a kid that thought he was building a drift vehicle... He proceeded to strip the dash, heater core and heat box, guage cluster door panels etc... That doesn't bother me to much because I have already found most of the needed replacement parts, however he had also apparently had some ignition problems and wired in a start button (key switch still turns Even with no key and is used to kill the truck, but push button has to be used to start it.) My problem is that this morning I went out to start the truck and it attempted to fire, I let off the starter button too soon and it never fired up, as soon as I went to start again I noticed a spark at the ign terminal where he had his start button plugged into at the firewall and got nothing... Not even a tick or an attempt to start... After some grunting and groaning I found that I could get the truck to fire by jumping the starter terminals, so I broke out my test light and found that I no longer have power to the ign terminals at the fire wall... The start button was wired to one side of this terminal with a fusable link between it and the button and the tac was wired to the other... I was able to swap both of these out to different 12v terminals on the fuse block and gain power back to both my start button and tac, but was wondering what could have caused the initial loss of power to that circuit... I do plan on putting the truck back together in a more kosher manner and replacing the keyswitch, but I'm baffled by the whole occurrence and don't want to dump money into a new ICM and keyswitch if the new ones will just burn out or not work... Just confused and looking for advice on where to start fixing this mess
My 2004 Sonoma sometimes acts like it’s going to shutoff. When it does this the fuel goes to empty and the temperature gauge goes all the way to hot. If I restart my truck the gauges will slowly come back to normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I have a 95 chevy s10 2wd 2.2l 5sp and the brake lights stay on and right turn signal does not work but when I turn it on the left brake light works and left turn signal does work the hazards don't work but I've tried the turn signal switch and brake light switch and the relays any ideas
This page really helped. Had no warning lights,no turn signal,no spark,no fuel but cranked.put my finger under harness by steering wheel and pulled,bam,everything started working but every time turn key off had to pull harness again. New ignition harness fixed it.
Comments
RD
Sometimes it will drive fine all day, but others it barely wants to get a mile and the volt guage will fluctuate after staying pinned at 14 it will "float" a bit below 14 and if I use my blinker or some other electric instrument it goes down as well. Another thing it does is when I am driving the guages will all of a sudden go crazy...the MPH and RPM guage will go way high and then go all the way down. The other guages will act eratic as well and then the truck will shut off. Sometimes it will start right back up, but other times I will have to pull over and pray that it will start again. Tonight it didn't start at all...wouldn't jump-start either so I returned my battery for a new one, replaced it, and then proceeded to drive about 8 miles to my house without a single issue except I noticed the volt meter dip a bit when I used my blinker.
I've had my starter replaced, and the battery and alternator have been checked and all check out fine. I've been told it could be a speed sensor, but the AAMCO told me that manual transmissions don't have a speed sensor?! The fuel pump has been recently replaced as well, but because it was shot. I see that many people have electrical problems with this vehicle and was hoping that you could give me a bit of advice on where to go next. Thanks! :confuse:
Did you ever figure this out?! This just happened to me recently. Any advice would be much appreciated.
The right rear turn signal and the rear right brake light dos not work. The bubl is ok. I've switched the right and left bubl. I've also measured the voltage on both right and left sockets for the bulb, it gives the same reading.
Any suggestion?
It was a loose connection were somone had cut the wire to splice in another wire for I gues a boat plug or something!!!
I have the following electrical issues:
Not working:
-Rear passenger light cluster
-wiper jets
-Cruise control
-Radio does not turn off w/ ignition (does turn off if passenger door opens and closes but not driver side)
-Airbag warning on and off
These were all issues when I purchased the truck, I just didn't realize it. Is it possible there is a single issue causing all of these probs or is it more likely there are separate issues for each one?
wiper jets - clogged or disconnected hose.
cruise control - disconnected vacuum
radio not turning off - faulty door switch (does the cab light come on when you open the driver door?)
air bag warning - loose air bag connector or some other faulty sensor. get this checked... would hate for an inadvertent air bag to go off.
rear passenger light cluster - ???? what is this?
these are just quick and simple fixes and where I would start diagnosing. After that eliminating the easy ones, then I would dig into it deeper.
merci pour l aide que vous pouver m apporter
I am having the exact same problem with my 2002 Sonoma. Did you ever find the problem? One thing I noticed is that if I turn the ignition key only 1/2 way the Odometer and PRNDL lights both come on??? However, my Odometer now reads in km instead of miles??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
My sons is away for a few month and whenever I try start his truck after a week or so the battery is dead. I just charged the battery and load tested it is fine.
I also just finished testing the electrical circuit via Amp meter between battery ground terminal and ground wire.
I discovered I have .22 amp draw when everything is off. I pulled all the fuses and when I pulled the interior light fuse the amperage draw went down to .02 amps.
I pulled all the bulbs in the system I could find: light dome, under dash left right lights, mirror left right reading lights and finally glove box and locked doors, waited for circuit to complete cycle no change amperage draw when everything I unplugged off still .22 amp so nothing I can find staying off due to faulty switch or closure
The truck does not have a under hood light that I can find.
I did notice when you lift outside handles it activates light circuit is there any way of disconnected each door circuit to test?
What circuit am I missing. Is there something else connected to this circuit I am not finding??
Any help greatly appreciated
Chieffy1
I just thought I would post a little story about my electrical gremlins in my 1999 Sonoma. Last week I left work at 10 pm and turned onto a dark road. My normal headlights were working fine but when I switched to my high beams, all went dark! My side running lights, turn and emergency flashers, brake and tail lights all still worked, but when I clicked off the high beams, my normal low beams came on but the high beam indicator stayed lit! I feared the worst and down loaded the complete electrical diagrams and studied the heck out of them. I checked the fuses, relays, switch functions but everything checked out OK. What had me confused was the high beam indicator that never went out no matter which position the high/low selector relay was in. I was sure there was a major problem. Lo and behold, it turns out I had two, TWO blown high beam bulbs! The indicator was telling me to "check the damn bulbs you idiot!" The bulbs were the original 15 year old units, and it hadn't occurred to me to start simple. I had just gone though a batch of 3 faulty alternators after the factory original died last month so I was worried something major was happening! Two lessons learned here: 1) When diagnosing start with the simple stuff, all the simple stuff (Occum's Razor applies). and 2) Don't buy cheap auto parts, you get what you pay for!
thing as every one else here. I checked every thing just like you did but I had a idea it was some thing else as my radio and car alarm/entry remote gave me problems also ..the fault lies in the bcm or body control module it controls all the electronics and the computer ..I changed mine out and have had no problems since doing so..and yes it does control the dash functions as well
google what it does and the list is way to long to post here so I wont hope this helps.