2K GMC Sierra's - II

gnipper

I've never seen a new topic sit empty this long. I've never been the first to post in a topic so thought I'd jump on here.

Actually a real question. Has anyone had problems with their horn? Lots of rain the past month in Dallas and I think mine must have gotten wet. It sounds very sick. I thought it would dry out, but hasn't. Warranty should replace it, but it sure sounds sick in the mean time.

Greg

jreichart

My new 2000 GMC Sierra has a four speed auto with overdrive. Does this mean that its 4 speeds total or four speeds plus OD. The reason I ask is this, my truck shifts from third gear into OD at 40 MPH and has no accelerating power in that gear at that speed. Sometimes though it seems like it shifts into a gear just before it goes into OD. Is this normal or are my shiftpoints messed up. Please help.

2timer

Wow! we havent had much of that rain down here in Austin. I guess that's a good thing since I have had brake probs with my 00 sierra in the last week or so. and wouldnt ya know it the dealer closest has a totally lame service dept.

2timer

cont from yesterday,
Yes I have the 255/70r16's on the chrome steel wheels and a build daye of april 00 from the Ontario plant. I havn't had any probs at all with the vibration until my brakes were "repaired" then all of a sudden the vibration shows up and the steering wheel wobbling back and forth I honestly couldnt tell where it felt like it was originating since I slowed down and it was gone.
On a side note my dad has his 5.3 1500 in the shop now for the vibration. The region gm rep said they had to install some kit. It has been in for 4 days now and will let ya know what I can about this "kit" when I do

obyone

Most of the vibration is related to the sensitivity of the rack and pinion, or shall I say oversensitivity. No point in guessing on vibration problem. I guess you will be taking it back to the dealer. What exactly did they do to "repair" your brakes?

gnipper

4 gears forward total. First, Second, Third, and Fourth (or) Overdrive - whatever you want to call it. GM refers to it as both on their website. Go here for all the details: http://www.gmpowertrain.com/transmissions/4l60_main.htm . All the details straight from GM.

Greg

gmcsierra

The transmission is just a four speed(od included).

On the other hand it does have an electronic lock-up torque convertor which makes you kinda think it has five gears.. It will go into overdrive and depending on the grade you are climbing, may or may not lock-up the convertor. You should be able to watch your tachometer and see this occur. Nothing to worry about though, pretty normal.

gmc sierra

tucsonjwt

base 2K Silverado, since I have an aftermarket Viper remote - it sounds every time I open/close the truck. In fact, it's a little too loud for me- I think it wakes up the neighbors at 5:30 a.m. when I forget to use the silent mode.
Regarding brakes: I have had the panic feeling once or twice when I came to a stop at a traffic light and the brakes momentarily let loose and the truck kept going forward. I think others have posted that this is "normal" when the truck goes over a bump or pothole when braking and the ABS kicks in. The truck always stopped, but it can
really test your nerves when it happens. Otherwise, the 4 wheel disc brakes work very well, and with the Edelbrock shocks I have there is very little nosedive on a quick stop.
On another note, I took the truck in for a recall to have warning labels installed on the front brake hoses to caution mechanics to use care when removing/replacing the brake hoses so they don't rub against the wheel.
I asked the service writer to check to see if my V6 was covered by the TSB for a mismachined crankshaft on some V6 engines. He said that very few engines were affected and that the affected vehicles were either bought back by GM or, if not yet sold, returned to the factory for engine replacement.

obyone

If that was true, there wouldn't be a TSB. Very few...sounds like the amount of brain cells that service advisor has...

kkempen

I'm in the market for a new Silverado 1500 extended cab, short bed, and am looking for advice on the engine choice.
This truck will be used primarily as a passenger vehicle, with no towing use. My dad had a 96 with the V6, which returned him mileage consistently in the low 20s, with fine performance.
I like the new V8s, and am concerned that the V6 may hurt resale, but like it's higher potential mileage figures. I plan on selecting the 3.42 axle ratio.
All opinions welcome!

obyone

for a full sized truck or van would have been the I6 300 cu in. from Ford. Being full sized and weighing over 2 tons, puts a strain on the 6 cyl. Not to say that the 6 can't handle it, but it will reflect in decreased mileage. For myself, I would definitely go with the v8 and allow yourself more options in the future should the need arise to tow or haul. Mileage difference between the v6 and v8 is not substantial enough for me to justify buying the v6. My $.02

tucsonjwt

Silverado for a day or two and see how it performs? Test driving a V6 and V8 is a good idea, but I find that you really don't drive it long enough or hard enough on a test drive to get a good idea. My mileage/performance experience with the V6 is as you report with your father's V6, but I drive carefully. If you keep your truck for many years, then the resale value difference between V6 and V8 is less significant -condition and mileage are the key factors several years down the road. If you plan to sell it in one year - go V8. The 3.42 is really a pretty quick gear for daily driving - but drive one and find out.

2timer

The service dept said that I had a leaking bypass valve and replaced the master cylinder. I took it out on a country road where ther wasn't any traffic got it up to about 75-80 mph and stomped on the brake and it does stop very well.
The vibration that I have is very slight, I hardly notice it unless I am really thinking about it. My dad's truck has a severe vibration and is (i think) more what people have been discussing here.

obyone

consider yourself one of the lucky ones. Has the service dept. finished working on your Dad's truck? If not, could you post his results after installing the kit? thanks...

2timer

Well I just got a call from my dad, the area gm service rep ordered this kit that would fix the vibration. The truck was in for 6 days but they only worked on it for an hour(it seems that some trucks were built with this kit so it was already on the truck) it is supposed to be something welded on to the truck. They service dept said they couldnt find anything wrong and said there was no vibration when they drove it. My dad may invoke the lemon law to get it replaced.

obyone

any reason for keeping the truck for six days? Seems like an awful long time to work on it for only an hour and not really do anything. A suggestion as written the Helm's manual. When identifying a vibration it is best that the technician assigned to the truck test drive with the owner to identify the exact speed, conditions, and type of vibration in question. That way, there can be no confusion as to whether the vibration exists. Once the tech agrees that there is a vibration, the work order can be written up and the tech has already verified. when I got frustrated with the "cannot verify vibration", I told the service manager that I wanted to set up a test drive with the tech. During the test drive, he agreed that there was a vibration at 60. I asked why wasn't he able to identify the vibration. He told me that it wasn't a significant vibration and figured the vibration at 60 was not the one I was complaining about. What it comes down to is that we all have different levels of tolerance. Don't know if your Dad wants to try and pursue this angle, if he does pursue arbitration, he will probably have to give GM one last try to fix the problem unless it is a safety issue. Keep us posted...

tk_tx

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra Ext-Cab Z-71 4dr. When I accelerate there is a slight rattling noise that you can hear on the drivers side when driving. It is not a loud noise you hear from the outside. You can only hear it when the in the truck and driving. Its not the vibration that others are having problems with. There is no noise when the engine is at idle. Only when I press on the gas and you accelerate. I don't know anything about trucks other than changing the oil and the basic maintenance. I have taken this to the dealership and they could not find anything wrong with the engine. The dealership said that it may be something behind the dash from the odometer. He said that Dodge's have the same problem. I don't want them tearing my truck apart to find something and then screwing something else up. Maybe the something loose in the fuel injector? Please help.

obyone

Famous for rattling....more revs=more engine vibs=more rattles...

2timer

Well I just talked to my dad and he says that the area gm rep wants to drive the truck to some kind of training class in another state. Its a several hundred mile trip so they should be able to see the problem first hand. I also told my mom to take the video camera everytime they drive the truck so they could video tape it as evidence.

There was no reason for keeping the truck as long as they did, they only drove it 40 miles. maybe they were hoping for the placibo effect or something. My parents are supposed to find out by the end of the week all the details about the rep taking it to the training event.

losbyrones

About 2 weeks ago I purchased 2000 Sierra SLE, 5.3L, HD suspension, w/ tow package. I've been dreaming about owning a Silverad or Sierra since back in high school but with things coming along like college, marriage...small things, it's taken till now till I could justify. I've read a lot of the messages here, don't quite have the time to read through all the hundreds of them. Could anyone kinda sum up what's been said about a. wind noise from extended cab window, and mushy breaks. Those are the only things I've had any problem with.

Wind noise is just a little annoying. The breaks have gone mushy a time or two on me when I come to a quick stop (darn Dallas traffic). Is this something with the anti-lock breaks?

Comments are much appreciated, I'll be trying to keep up on the list and give any feedback/experience I can.

losbyrones

Pay no mind to me saying 'breaks' as opposed to 'brakes'...hey, it's Friday, its been a long week.

gmcsierra

losbyrones

To kinda sum up the few hundred posts:

1: front end vibrations(Some are bad goodyear tires some are caused by ???

2: rear end sag/bouncing(replace leaf springs)

3: wind noise(quarter windows/doors)

4: leaky/broken back sliding glass

5: Launch shudder when pulling out with load(seems to be mostly ext. cabs)

6: Lots of other little things that unless you are told about, you probably won't notice

Summation: Pig in a poke!

Some people get good ones, some don't.

You might want to check in in the Silverado topic, they have lots of good stuff there.

I have a 2000 std cab, stepside, SLE, 5.3 auto, handling package, 3.42 rear, 2wd
2500 miles so far and none of the problems others have encountered.

Keep us posted on your new truck. The brakes are sensitive, but you do get used to them. Mine aren't mushy, but I believe that the feel of brakes depend on what you have been used to driving. My thought anyway...
Gas mileage has been pretty good, just filled up the tank tonight. Waited until the low fuel light came on an there was still 7 gal. of gas in the tank. Std cab has 26 gal tank and ext. cab has 34 I believe. Went 393 miles on 19 gal of gas (around 20 miles/gal roughly) can't complain.

later

gmc sierra

tk_tx

Well the dealership said it was "Spark Knock" and that some trucks are a little louder than others. What the hell is that? I don't think they know where it is coming from. Any other advice?

obyone

probably is spark knock. dealer will tell you that it is normal. whether you want to do something about it is up to you. Some have changed their plugs to colder ones...

cowanj

I finally got my 2000 Sierra SLE 4dr 2500 with the 6.0 liter engine and heavy duty trans. When I drove it home from the dealer I noticed a squeal about 10 - 15 mph. After 800 miles I took it back and was told it is the nature of the transmission and mine is quieter then some. The squeal only last a few seconds. It sometimes occurs again around 20 mph. Other then that, this is a great truck and I love driving it. Has anyone else had this problem?

jlflemmons

I have 1K on my new 2500, 6.0l ext cab and the tranny doesn't make a sound. Okay, so if I have the windows down (not often, avg daytime temp has been >100) the 4L80E is a 'little' noisier than the 4L60E, but no squeal or anything close to it. Are you sure the brakes aren't chirping? Sometimes I get that, but it comes and goes.

BTW, I have owned a bunch of GM trucks, and this one is put together better than any I have seen. No rattles, mis-fits, or wind noise. I love this truck.

cowanj

The quick squeal occurs only when accelerating from a stop at 10mph and then again sometimes at 20mph. Sounds like it is coming from the driveshaft and only last a couple of seconds. I thought it might be a bearing. The transmission is quiet and the truck is a dream to drive.

tiredofwaiting

I you are not satisfied with your truck please
email me the details of your ownership experience.
I will post them to a web site devoted to problems
with GM trucks and will also forward to several
people in GM management. Maybe if they continually
get these emails, they will be forced to retrofit
ALL trucks with fixes incorporated into the 2001
design.

Thanks,
Clay Hodges
<<A HREF="http://gm_lemon@bigfoot.com">gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
<<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon&gt;

2timer

Well looks like I have got to take my truck back in to have the brakes worked on. Sometimes the brake pedal drops to the floor and yesterday I was sitting in traffic and I had to press all the way to the floor just to keep the truck from creeping up on the car in front of me. Then about an hour later they felt normal and later last night they fell to the floor. I really wish I had kept my 98 (that was never in the shop) now.

2timer

jlflemmons

If your dealer cannot figure this one out, go find another dealer. If you are not losing fluid, then about the only thing that could be bad is the master cylinder. Use this logic. The master cylinder moves the fluid. ABS or whatever, doesn't matter, the cylinder moves the fluid. The fluid cannot compress, so either it is squirting out somewhere when the pedal goes to the floor, or the seals in the master cylinder are letting the fluid leak by without pressurizing the system. For all the advancements made on brakes in the past several years, hydraulics are still hydraulics.

Jim

tiredofwaiting

I am out of town and found a new 2001 Ext 1500 at a dealer there. I checked out the frame and there were enough other trucks (100+) to compare with that I was able to chronicle the visible changes across 99, 00 and 01. Ok, from what I can see, the 99 and 00 both had a wimpy bolt on transmission crossmember that was not braced to the frame. The 00s after It also drops down lower to accommodate a larger crossmember. The 01s add two braces that run from a foot behind the front wheel on each frame rail to a central point on the crossmember where the front bushing of the lower control arm attaches to. this effectivly provides another 90 degree brace to the frame. The 01 also has a brace that runs from the left to the right frame rails about 8-10 inches in front of the driveshaft carrier bearing mount.
I took tons of digital pictures of these trucks, including the frame stickers that show the build date. The 2001 showed a 6/21 date. I saw many 2000s in the 6/8..6/9 range but no braces. I even have several pictures of a brand new complete 4wd frame leaning against the body shop wall it had no braces..was built in Canada on 6/6. It did have the complete Trans Xmember attached. I would like to see that shop ticket. Could it be vibration related???? Anyway I will be back in town tomorrow night and will upload the pictures to my web site if you are interested.... Oh BTW there are no new rear door handles.

Clay
<<A HREF="http://gm_lemon@bigfoot.com">gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
<<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon&gt;

jlflemmons

I tried a couple of tricks with my 2K GMC 2500 with regard to the squeak as the vehicle starts off. On my truck, I can put the truck in nuetral with the engine off, and let it roll forward down the street and lo and behold, there's the squeak. But if I put just the slightest drag on the brakes, not enough to stop the roll, but just a little bit of drag, no squeak.

I think what you may be hearing is the pad drag on the rotor as it is releasing from the stop. The pads do not "snap" back, but will slowly release to a slightly retracted position. Even though the pad may touch the rotor, it is only enough to sometimes cause a squeak or chirp, but not enough to cause any measurable drag. The pads may have a higher metallic content which can cause this problem more readily, but the pads should last longer. One thing I know is that the brakes on my new 2500 are WAY better than my '96 1500.

Jim

cowanj

Thanks for your response. I will test this when I find a hill steep enough to go 10-20 mph. I feel you are correct as with 1400 miles it is no worse then when I first noticed it. I tried to test to make sure but the 410 gears won't let it roll fast on a small grade. It definitely sounds like a brake pad squeal. Thanks again.

cowanj

I hooked up my trailer and put a load on the truck and the the squeak or chirp increased a bit.
I now feel the dealer was correct about the transmission making the sound. It is not loud, just like a bird song while going through the gears, with short spurts of singing. It does not sound like something is wrong. It is probably the 6.0 engine with the heavy transmission seating in.

edd4

This morning with transmission in "park" engine idle slowed until engine stopped. Did this a few more times. Every time I stopped, the engine wanted to stop running. No roughness, just died down and wanted to quit. After driving a few more miles, problem went away. Any one else experience this? 5.3L, auto, 1500 4X4.

evergreen

I have a 2K Sierra which has given me 4000 miles of trouble free fun. The only thing unusual is when I hit a sharp bump in the road. I sometimes hear a little rattle from the rear suspension. Anyone else have this experience? I will have it checked when I get the oil changed.

obyone

loose spare maybe?

dlucier

Haven't had that problem w/mine, but my '97 used to have a safety brake cable shroud that would rattle a bit. I just pulled it to its guide bracket with a wire tie & it shut up.

dlucier

with the security indicator coming on while you're
driving? I've had it happen twice now. Once you shut down and restart it's ok.

pocahontas

For those interested: Edmund's road test of the 2001 GMC Sierra C3 is now available. Here's the direct link to the First Drive: 2001 GMC Sierra C3, by Miles Cook. Let us know what you think.

Happy Motoring. ;-)

Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host

aircop

I am amazed at the wealth of information one can obtain on the Edmund's site, not to mention all the helpful folks who respond. Thanks for all the good information.

I have been searching for a new vehicle and finally decided to replace the truck I lost in the divorce (God I miss that truck ). I don't have to haul or move things often, but I hate borrowing a truck when I need to. I used to make several trips a year to the TN Mtns. during snow season and appreciated the confidence and safety 4WD offered. I had a custom-ordered 95 Sierra 1500 that was decked out. I want to pick up on the traveling again and want the security of 4WD.

The new truck will primarily be used for business purposes in town so I'm concerned about having the 8 cyl. engine. My 95 had the 6 cyl. I prefer to keep my gas bill below the national debt. Florida driving is congested at times and my driving varies from 20 miles one day to 180 miles the next (30-40% interstate). It's only when I go home (MS mud), head to the mountains, or FL gets flooded that I feel I must have the 4WD for safety and control.

I'm leaning toward the SLT package because it will be a business vehicle (not a work truck). The impressive interior styling of a luxury car with the safety of a full-size truck. It will be comfortable enough for clients, stylish enough to equate with a "nice" car, and roomy enough for products. I want a smooth, quiet, safe ride.

There are a few options I know I want, for example: leather seats, C.D. player, bucket seats with two position driver's memory, skid plates, heavy duty engine and transmission cooling, short bed, electric rear window defogger, front fog lamps, autotrac active 4Wd transfer case, ability to adjust the smoothness of the ride, wiring and hitch, tires other than the Firestone Wilderness that are standard (no firestone under this boy), the tires must be really good in the rain, rims that can withstand the FL salt air, and either color-keyed running boards or the chrome tubular side steps (short legged fiancee). Which is better the running boards or the tubular side steps?

I know a lot of these items are available after-market, but the Florida after-market is sometimes more expensive and quality is unpredictable as far as installation. The quality of the work and product are a great concern.

This is an important decision for me as I hope it will be my last new vehicle purchase. My father is still happily driving his 73 GMC. I'm even considering the extended 100,000 mile warranty for this very reason. This truck will replace my 95' and end the headaches of sharing a car with my fiancee for the last four years.

The 2000's are being discounted more each day, but my choices will be limited and all my extras could add a pretty penny to a truck that will be a year old when it's new. The TMV on the 2000 is $24,786 with a 3% holdback, not including the options I want. The SLT package alone will add $2125 (MRSP) to the price.

The 2001's TMV is $25,247 with no holdback or rebates that I'm aware of. Pricing out my options on nadaguides put invoice price at $29,439, up from $24,733 base invoice and put MRSP at $33,626 up from $28,266. Sounds like I'm going to be truck poor even with $5-7,000 down???

How can I calculate the TMV on my "dream" truck? What is the purpose of locking differential? What circumstances would cause you to need the auxiliary automatic transmission cooling? Is the painted bumper a good choice (we have lots of lovebugs during season)? Is a bra a better choice? (I hate the looks of the bra.) I want safety first, comfort, and style. Hopefully, all with a payment I won't choke on.

I apologize for the length of this post, but the expenditure has made me research crazy. Plus I have to admit it will do my soul good to put the "truck issue" to rest by driving by her (ex) work.:) I appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks so much for your time.

ryanbab

If you get the SLT i doubt you can get the V-6. Get the V-8 you wont regret it. Also i really like my nerf bars

Heres a link to my site you can check out some of my accessories. If you have any specific questions on options let me know im sure i can help
http://www.picturetrail.com/ryanbab

heres another link which might help

http://www.picturetrail.com/bco

Also you will have to get a 2001 to get the ride firmness thing you talk about i forget the actual name.

Also the locking rear is good for wet roads, snow, pulling a boat out of a ramp. I have this on my 2000 silverado and really like it. When the rear wheels start to slip (in 2wd) the rear axle locks up and give it traction. For $285 why not get it that was my reasoning glad i got it.

Ryan

nrd525

Don't get the 4.3, you will regret it. A friend just got a really great price on a standard cab 2WD Silverado (hail damaged), and already is making plans to let the kid have it next year after he starts driving.He gets 15MPG or so in town. I get that with the 5.3 in a 4x4 ext cab!!
The locking rear is a good idea for bad weather. I don't think you can get the six with the SLT package either, and actually, I don't think you can get the six with 4WD at all. This is a good thing!!
I could live the rest of my life without power seats, but I guess you like 'em. The extended warranty is basically money in the dealers pocket. Put it in the bank, in case you need it later. Another thing, after the 3 yr warranty is up, the emissions warranty is STILL in effect. So, if you have a computer/fuel inj/ignition problem it's covered under that warranty! I got a ton of stuff fixed for $0 on my 86 Camaro under the emissions warranty. Some dealers seem to "forget" about it. I know someone a local dealer tried to screw over when their 96 Chevy k1500's F.I. went out. They had a bill written up for $500+. He looked at it, and said "Isn't this covered under the emissions warranty?" After a little while, the new bill was $75 bucks. That included an oil change, diagnostic fee, and something else. All the engine work was free.

rwcr

I had hoped that I would not have to post with a problem with my new 2000.1 GMC but I could use some advise. My new 2K SLT 4x4 E/C S/B is the slickest truck on the road and couldn't say enough good things about it. (About the Z71 question, 2K Z71 rides noticeably rougher than my 97 non-Z71, oh well) I thought I was going to get away with every problem I've read about these trucks, and I mostly have but the truck just turned 4700 mi. and I seemed to have developed a clunking in the drive train. The clunk occurs first when I let off the brakes from the stop light then it clunks immediatley during initial acceleration. I don't know if its coming from the rear end, drive line or transmission. The clunk is also present while slowing down, during down shifting. I'm aware that there could be drive train slack but the timing of the clunks are wrong for slack. The dealership advised that the tranny had the latest update so I'm running out of options. I read in earlier posts about bad leaf springs. Anybody have any idea what this could be? As for the rest of the truck, I think the quality and craftsmanship of the 2Ks are much, much higher than previous years and I would recommend one.

Thanks

obyone

trucks that clunk on acceleration from stop. Geez, this has been going on since it's introduction in '99. Your dealer must have his head up his you know what...either that or he is playing dumb. There is a TSB out on this. Don't know if I still have it around....will check. But your dealer should know about this one...it's so damn old....

aaaamoore

After the dealership insisted on changing the driverside rear spring to fix my Sierra clunk, they followed the advise on the bulletin, drained the transfer case, refilled, drive for a few miles, drain again, and refill... and that did fix the clunk!

obyone

amaze me on how perceptive they are...LOL!!

aaaamoore

Amen!

lynlaine

I bought a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500SLE on June 28, 2000.

On September 1st, my 'check oil level' light came on. I checked it and it was a quart low. I called my dealership and (after being pushed back and forth between the dealership and roadside assistance) the dealership said it was just the truck breaking in and was normal.

I added a quart of oil, parked it for two weeks (while out of town), came back and drove it 3 weeks. The 'check oil level' light came back on again! I checked it again and it was a quart low AGAIN (after 3 weeks of local driving)!

PLUS, the truck is smoking (bluish/white) when I start it -- however, not EVERY time, and it doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. I took it in and they said there was nothing they could do because they didn't see the smoke and can't verify that I'm losing oil somewhere (not leaking). So they've started me on an Oil Consumption Test. They made me change my oil (at 2,076 miles) at MY expense, and wanted me to come in every 1,000 miles to have my oil level checked. I told them it won't go 1,000 miles before needing oil. So now I'm to go in every 500 miles so they can document my oil consumption.

(note: At about 100 miles, I checked my oil level out of curiosity -- and it is an inch over the max fill level on my dip stick, so I'm assuming it was overfilled.)

I was told that their gut feeling was that it's bad valve seals -- and if so, they will have to pull my engine for repair. They said before they can take my engine a part they need to document it with this test.

I'm really upset about this and wonder if anyone else is having this type of problem.

Lynlaine

obyone

While the Oil Consumption Test is normal procedure, it does seem like this particular dealer is yanking your chain. Overfilling with oil can be damaging to the engine. Any "over" amount should be drained out the dealer.

jlflemmons

They are jerking your chain if they say the engine has to be pulled to change the valve stem seals. You don't even pull the heads, just the valve covers. Then you pull the spark plugs, blow compressed air into the cylinder and remove the keepers and valve spring. Replace the seal and reassemble. I know I made it sound a little easier than it may be, but you certainly DO NOT pull the engine for this job.

Jim