2K GMC Sierra's - II
I've never seen a new topic sit empty this long. I've never been the first to post in a topic so thought I'd jump on here.
Actually a real question. Has anyone had problems with their horn? Lots of rain the past month in Dallas and I think mine must have gotten wet. It sounds very sick. I thought it would dry out, but hasn't. Warranty should replace it, but it sure sounds sick in the mean time.
Greg
Actually a real question. Has anyone had problems with their horn? Lots of rain the past month in Dallas and I think mine must have gotten wet. It sounds very sick. I thought it would dry out, but hasn't. Warranty should replace it, but it sure sounds sick in the mean time.
Greg
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Yes I have the 255/70r16's on the chrome steel wheels and a build daye of april 00 from the Ontario plant. I havn't had any probs at all with the vibration until my brakes were "repaired" then all of a sudden the vibration shows up and the steering wheel wobbling back and forth I honestly couldnt tell where it felt like it was originating since I slowed down and it was gone.
On a side note my dad has his 5.3 1500 in the shop now for the vibration. The region gm rep said they had to install some kit. It has been in for 4 days now and will let ya know what I can about this "kit" when I do
Greg
On the other hand it does have an electronic lock-up torque convertor which makes you kinda think it has five gears.. It will go into overdrive and depending on the grade you are climbing, may or may not lock-up the convertor. You should be able to watch your tachometer and see this occur. Nothing to worry about though, pretty normal.
gmc sierra
Regarding brakes: I have had the panic feeling once or twice when I came to a stop at a traffic light and the brakes momentarily let loose and the truck kept going forward. I think others have posted that this is "normal" when the truck goes over a bump or pothole when braking and the ABS kicks in. The truck always stopped, but it can
really test your nerves when it happens. Otherwise, the 4 wheel disc brakes work very well, and with the Edelbrock shocks I have there is very little nosedive on a quick stop.
On another note, I took the truck in for a recall to have warning labels installed on the front brake hoses to caution mechanics to use care when removing/replacing the brake hoses so they don't rub against the wheel.
I asked the service writer to check to see if my V6 was covered by the TSB for a mismachined crankshaft on some V6 engines. He said that very few engines were affected and that the affected vehicles were either bought back by GM or, if not yet sold, returned to the factory for engine replacement.
This truck will be used primarily as a passenger vehicle, with no towing use. My dad had a 96 with the V6, which returned him mileage consistently in the low 20s, with fine performance.
I like the new V8s, and am concerned that the V6 may hurt resale, but like it's higher potential mileage figures. I plan on selecting the 3.42 axle ratio.
All opinions welcome!
The vibration that I have is very slight, I hardly notice it unless I am really thinking about it. My dad's truck has a severe vibration and is (i think) more what people have been discussing here.
There was no reason for keeping the truck as long as they did, they only drove it 40 miles. maybe they were hoping for the placibo effect or something. My parents are supposed to find out by the end of the week all the details about the rep taking it to the training event.
Wind noise is just a little annoying. The breaks have gone mushy a time or two on me when I come to a quick stop (darn Dallas traffic). Is this something with the anti-lock breaks?
Comments are much appreciated, I'll be trying to keep up on the list and give any feedback/experience I can.
To kinda sum up the few hundred posts:
1: front end vibrations(Some are bad goodyear tires some are caused by ???
2: rear end sag/bouncing(replace leaf springs)
3: wind noise(quarter windows/doors)
4: leaky/broken back sliding glass
5: Launch shudder when pulling out with load(seems to be mostly ext. cabs)
6: Lots of other little things that unless you are told about, you probably won't notice
Summation: Pig in a poke!
Some people get good ones, some don't.
You might want to check in in the Silverado topic, they have lots of good stuff there.
I have a 2000 std cab, stepside, SLE, 5.3 auto, handling package, 3.42 rear, 2wd
2500 miles so far and none of the problems others have encountered.
Keep us posted on your new truck. The brakes are sensitive, but you do get used to them. Mine aren't mushy, but I believe that the feel of brakes depend on what you have been used to driving. My thought anyway...
Gas mileage has been pretty good, just filled up the tank tonight. Waited until the low fuel light came on an there was still 7 gal. of gas in the tank. Std cab has 26 gal tank and ext. cab has 34 I believe. Went 393 miles on 19 gal of gas (around 20 miles/gal roughly) can't complain.
later
gmc sierra
BTW, I have owned a bunch of GM trucks, and this one is put together better than any I have seen. No rattles, mis-fits, or wind noise. I love this truck.
email me the details of your ownership experience.
I will post them to a web site devoted to problems
with GM trucks and will also forward to several
people in GM management. Maybe if they continually
get these emails, they will be forced to retrofit
ALL trucks with fixes incorporated into the 2001
design.
Thanks,
Clay Hodges
<<A HREF="http://gm_lemon@bigfoot.com">gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
<<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon>
2timer
Jim
I took tons of digital pictures of these trucks, including the frame stickers that show the build date. The 2001 showed a 6/21 date. I saw many 2000s in the 6/8..6/9 range but no braces. I even have several pictures of a brand new complete 4wd frame leaning against the body shop wall it had no braces..was built in Canada on 6/6. It did have the complete Trans Xmember attached. I would like to see that shop ticket. Could it be vibration related???? Anyway I will be back in town tomorrow night and will upload the pictures to my web site if you are interested.... Oh BTW there are no new rear door handles.
Clay
<<A HREF="http://gm_lemon@bigfoot.com">gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
<<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon>
I think what you may be hearing is the pad drag on the rotor as it is releasing from the stop. The pads do not "snap" back, but will slowly release to a slightly retracted position. Even though the pad may touch the rotor, it is only enough to sometimes cause a squeak or chirp, but not enough to cause any measurable drag. The pads may have a higher metallic content which can cause this problem more readily, but the pads should last longer. One thing I know is that the brakes on my new 2500 are WAY better than my '96 1500.
Jim
I now feel the dealer was correct about the transmission making the sound. It is not loud, just like a bird song while going through the gears, with short spurts of singing. It does not sound like something is wrong. It is probably the 6.0 engine with the heavy transmission seating in.
driving? I've had it happen twice now. Once you shut down and restart it's ok.
Happy Motoring. ;-)
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host
I have been searching for a new vehicle and finally decided to replace the truck I lost in the divorce (God I miss that truck
The new truck will primarily be used for business purposes in town so I'm concerned about having the 8 cyl. engine. My 95 had the 6 cyl. I prefer to keep my gas bill below the national debt. Florida driving is congested at times and my driving varies from 20 miles one day to 180 miles the next (30-40% interstate). It's only when I go home (MS mud), head to the mountains, or FL gets flooded that I feel I must have the 4WD for safety and control.
I'm leaning toward the SLT package because it will be a business vehicle (not a work truck). The impressive interior styling of a luxury car with the safety of a full-size truck. It will be comfortable enough for clients, stylish enough to equate with a "nice" car, and roomy enough for products. I want a smooth, quiet, safe ride.
There are a few options I know I want, for example: leather seats, C.D. player, bucket seats with two position driver's memory, skid plates, heavy duty engine and transmission cooling, short bed, electric rear window defogger, front fog lamps, autotrac active 4Wd transfer case, ability to adjust the smoothness of the ride, wiring and hitch, tires other than the Firestone Wilderness that are standard (no firestone under this boy), the tires must be really good in the rain, rims that can withstand the FL salt air, and either color-keyed running boards or the chrome tubular side steps (short legged fiancee). Which is better the running boards or the tubular side steps?
I know a lot of these items are available after-market, but the Florida after-market is sometimes more expensive and quality is unpredictable as far as installation. The quality of the work and product are a great concern.
This is an important decision for me as I hope it will be my last new vehicle purchase. My father is still happily driving his 73 GMC. I'm even considering the extended 100,000 mile warranty for this very reason. This truck will replace my 95' and end the headaches of sharing a car with my fiancee for the last four years.
The 2000's are being discounted more each day, but my choices will be limited and all my extras could add a pretty penny to a truck that will be a year old when it's new. The TMV on the 2000 is $24,786 with a 3% holdback, not including the options I want. The SLT package alone will add $2125 (MRSP) to the price.
The 2001's TMV is $25,247 with no holdback or rebates that I'm aware of. Pricing out my options on nadaguides put invoice price at $29,439, up from $24,733 base invoice and put MRSP at $33,626 up from $28,266. Sounds like I'm going to be truck poor even with $5-7,000 down???
How can I calculate the TMV on my "dream" truck? What is the purpose of locking differential? What circumstances would cause you to need the auxiliary automatic transmission cooling? Is the painted bumper a good choice (we have lots of lovebugs during season)? Is a bra a better choice? (I hate the looks of the bra.) I want safety first, comfort, and style. Hopefully, all with a payment I won't choke on.
I apologize for the length of this post, but the expenditure has made me research crazy. Plus I have to admit it will do my soul good to put the "truck issue" to rest by driving by her (ex) work.:) I appreciate any and all suggestions. Thanks so much for your time.
Heres a link to my site you can check out some of my accessories. If you have any specific questions on options let me know im sure i can help
http://www.picturetrail.com/ryanbab
heres another link which might help
http://www.picturetrail.com/bco
Also you will have to get a 2001 to get the ride firmness thing you talk about i forget the actual name.
Also the locking rear is good for wet roads, snow, pulling a boat out of a ramp. I have this on my 2000 silverado and really like it. When the rear wheels start to slip (in 2wd) the rear axle locks up and give it traction. For $285 why not get it that was my reasoning glad i got it.
Ryan
The locking rear is a good idea for bad weather. I don't think you can get the six with the SLT package either, and actually, I don't think you can get the six with 4WD at all. This is a good thing!!
I could live the rest of my life without power seats, but I guess you like 'em. The extended warranty is basically money in the dealers pocket. Put it in the bank, in case you need it later. Another thing, after the 3 yr warranty is up, the emissions warranty is STILL in effect. So, if you have a computer/fuel inj/ignition problem it's covered under that warranty! I got a ton of stuff fixed for $0 on my 86 Camaro under the emissions warranty. Some dealers seem to "forget" about it. I know someone a local dealer tried to screw over when their 96 Chevy k1500's F.I. went out. They had a bill written up for $500+. He looked at it, and said "Isn't this covered under the emissions warranty?" After a little while, the new bill was $75 bucks. That included an oil change, diagnostic fee, and something else. All the engine work was free.
Thanks
On September 1st, my 'check oil level' light came on. I checked it and it was a quart low. I called my dealership and (after being pushed back and forth between the dealership and roadside assistance) the dealership said it was just the truck breaking in and was normal.
I added a quart of oil, parked it for two weeks (while out of town), came back and drove it 3 weeks. The 'check oil level' light came back on again! I checked it again and it was a quart low AGAIN (after 3 weeks of local driving)!
PLUS, the truck is smoking (bluish/white) when I start it -- however, not EVERY time, and it doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. I took it in and they said there was nothing they could do because they didn't see the smoke and can't verify that I'm losing oil somewhere (not leaking). So they've started me on an Oil Consumption Test. They made me change my oil (at 2,076 miles) at MY expense, and wanted me to come in every 1,000 miles to have my oil level checked. I told them it won't go 1,000 miles before needing oil. So now I'm to go in every 500 miles so they can document my oil consumption.
(note: At about 100 miles, I checked my oil level out of curiosity -- and it is an inch over the max fill level on my dip stick, so I'm assuming it was overfilled.)
I was told that their gut feeling was that it's bad valve seals -- and if so, they will have to pull my engine for repair. They said before they can take my engine a part they need to document it with this test.
I'm really upset about this and wonder if anyone else is having this type of problem.
Lynlaine
Jim