Would appreciate any feedback as to where I might find a detailed procedure for replacing left & right valve cover gaskets. Most is straight forward but the left side appears to require at least the removal of the EGR and perhaps the intake manifold. Thanks.
My blog 1990 Q-45 has some details of repair I haven't put this one up but will today.
In my removal I broke it down into hoses cables and the bolts and a couple more hoses when you get the manifold separated from the engine.
From memory, I get up on the engine and look behind the engine to the top of the block. You ll see a Y type hose going to the idle air valve and another metal tube that runs along the top of the block. Try and get some pliers on the hose clamp to the metal pipe side, remove this hose clamp only The other two sides do not need removed. Now your going to remove hose clamps on the valve cover. The largest ones in the middle of the cover next to the intake on the intake manifold. Theres two on the left valve cover and one on right valve cover. That is all the hoses for now
I switch to throttle cables next, the three on the right side of the engine. The two upper ones that go into the firewall must be removed, leave the other one alone. That one goes to the other side of engine throttle plate, and stays on the manifold when you lift it off. The two nuts are 14mm size. Use two wrenches and turn the nut on the firewall side of cable while holding the nut on the end of the cable side. If it doesn't move, you have your adjustment for later. Then lift cable off from between the metal clamp by open the throttle by hand at the lever next to these nuts and slide the end of the cable out of the slot made for removal. Then re-tighten the two nuts back together. I re-tighten the nut you loosened to the one that never moved.This is your adjustment point when you reinstall it. I mark this nut on the top with red paint for a reference in case it moves a little.
Next is the EGR valve. It can be hard to get to the tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. I used a 90 degree nut wrench. like those plumbers wrenches but lighter and smaller. Open it up to 15/16 and put on with the wrench towards the front of the engine and try to break it loose. Dont have to remove it completely. It helps to have all the wires on the valve cover out of the way. Then get the other end of this tube at the EGR Valve, it is 1 1/4 size.
Back to the hoses I missed the vacuum booster hose and its clamp on the top backside of engine and fuel regulator hoses.Its down under the manifold on the top of the block by the Y hose and the other fuel regulator diaphragm hose is next to the Idle Air Valve (IAC) on the back of the engine too but higher up on the left side as you sit in the car It pulls right off. One more hose clamp to be removed is on the front of the engine right side comes from the bottom of the manifold into the hoses you removed in the first paragraph. It is smaller, 3/8 size. and wont come off until you lift the manifold and twist the manifold as you remove it, then it comes off. This is the next to last hose holding the manifold on. The last hose is the coolant hoses. There is two, one on each side of the opening for the intake by the throttle valve. I hold the intake up in the air after you have removed the 16 10mm bolts holding it all down. I should have included it in the last step for bolts. Use a 2x4 wedge undr the manifold to keep it up while I remove these last two hose clamps. These are 3/8 size hoses with antifreeze in them. Now is a good time to start draining some of the coolant in the radiator before you start or these hoses will give you a small flood on top of the engine.
Oh yea I remove the two bolts (12mm) on the EGR Valve and remove it, This gives me more access to the last hose I just mentioned. Also remove the diaphram above it,on the top of the manifold next to the EGR. Two 10mm bolts hold the diaphram on.The only hoses that I didnt mention run along the valve cover to some metal tubes and solenoids on the left side of engine, they also get removed. They bolt to the left valve cover. I pull off the small hoses at each end and the two more that connecte to the intake by the throttle valve. The whole assembly of these hoses cant be removed until you remove the manifold.Remember to put it inplace first before you install the intake manifold on reinstallation.
rearwheeldrive - thanks for taking the time and trouble to post the details of your disassembly. Before joining this forum I searched motor manuals and the internet for some details about this undertaking. Given all the comments I found on the internet about Q45 owners experiencing valve cover gasket leakage I was surprised to find nothing published. The '96 model might be different from the '90 model in some ways. There were two major unknowns (to me) to which I was trying to find answers before beginning the project. (1) Would it be necessary to break an A/C line to remove the right side cover? Specifically, the lines near the firewall that are close to the cover. (2) Would it be necessary to remove (or move) the intake manifold in order to remove the left side cover? There is an approx 3/4 inch metal tube that extends from beneath the intake manifold outward over the left side valve cover. Didn't look like the valve cover would clear the tube. Checked with a couple of Infinity service departments about the procedure. All said they bend the tube to clear the cover. Long story shorten....I didn't bend the tube because it would involve major surgery to replace if I broke it. I forged ahead and was able to remove the 16 bolts that hold the manifold on the block, disconnect one bracked from the manifold and was able to lift the manifold the necessary distance to clear the metal tube. As for the right side - it was tight but I was able to remove the cover without breaking the A/C line near the firewall.
Should anyone read this post and want pictures and details for a 96 Infinity send me a request.
Your right those two areas had me scratching my head. The A/C lines along the right side,and the EGR tube over the left valve cover.
Never bend or break anything on this car, parts are too expensive. I think I tried to get the cover off with it loose but I never had to bend it. It makes installation easier to remove it completely once you get the valve cover off. The right side cover is tough getting around the A/C lines I used a 1/4 drive socket wrapped in masking tape to help my two fingers loosen the bolt because the ratchet gets in the way of the A/C lines The fuel lines I left on too.
My pic's are detailed, but I have them in two different software programs and cant find then in the old software that pops up in the download window of this site. I'll find them today.
Sorry for no response I didnt get an email that usually notifies me of a new message. Sounds like the battery is dead. What is the voltage?. If you dont have a meter Radio Shack sells one for $4.00 dollars.
I think your car has something draining it. To immediately fix this, disconnect the ground cable at the battery every time you park the car. Mine is 13mm size nut on the negative (ground) side of the battery.. Its the correct cable to disconnect when you want to take electric battery power off the whole car, not the positive or red cable, its the hot one Since the NEG. cable is wired to the car body at the other end of the cable, the battery won't short out or spark if your wrench accidentally touches the car metal too when loosening it.
Its the positive cable that goes to all the switches and fuses that is hot, and is never touching the car body. If you accidentally touch the wrench to the car body when your removing it first instead, you would cause a direct short in the electric system bypassing all the switches and fuses and electric parts, and cause sparks too.
I just wanted to warn everyone that is in the San Jose, CA area never to take their Infiniti for service at Frontier Infiniti on Stevens Creek. I brought my FX in for it's 30K maintenance. They told me it was done so I picked it up after work. I paid for the service and they said wait a couple minutes while they bring the car out to the front. However, they can't find my keys. They said this apparently happens often and they might have just left the keys in another car. They "tried" to look for the keys for about 20 or so minutes and said it might turn up tomorrow. They made it a big deal that they provided me a loaner car.
The dealership said they were going to give me a call the next day. I get a call 11:30AM the next day informing me that my car was no longer in the lot. I was even asked if I had come back to the dealership that same night to pick up my car with my spare (So I'm the victim here and I get accused of taking my car). They "discovered" the car missing AM and it took them 4 hours to contact me. I immediately head over to the dealership to file a police report. They have no clue as to what happened. No internal investigation was done. No camera footage was available. Basically considered the whole matter as between me and my insurance. They were very passive and had poor customer service. I love Infiniti and if you car about your's, I highly suggest don't bring it in to Frontier Infiniti on Stevens Creek (San Jose, CA).
The ballast replacement is not a major deal but it will take some time. I had to replace my headlight after a pole met up with it. It took about 3 hours. The ballast is mounted under the headlight. The ballast will come out with a little help, you will understand when you get to it. I downloaded a tech manual from q45.org, but it seems it is no longer there. I do remember that I had to remove the inner fender well and a few bolts were hidden. I will try post the manual tonight on www.makeahybrid.com/q45 , it is the manual for the 2002+ cars.
When I accelerate or step on it to pass, my 'Brake' and sometimes 'Airbag' light(s) come on. They go off whenm I let off the throttle. Can anyone help? Thank you kindly, James S.
I wrote the msg about the Q45 whose 'Brake" light would come on upon acceleration (and sometimes the 'Airbag' light, too). Last night coming down I-75 home, the Brake, Battery lights came on steady, and the Airbag light blinked on and off regularly. I have some familiarity with Japanese cars and this said "Alternator" to me. I hadn't thought of that, as the alternator in the car is NAPA's liftetime guaranteed model, three months old. But that's what it is, the alternator. Gotta swap it out again. Thanks for the help! James
I had the same problem recently on my 2000 Q45. It was one of the coils, if you have a coil-per-plug. Examine the wire(s) closely on each coil-to-plug wire. You might find some very small holes where the spark is shorting out on the metal tube it fits down in. Causes it to miss, eventually completely killed one cylinder, until it was replaced. On mine the dealer had the cheapest part, as you have to buy coil and wire together. Hope this makes sense. Good luck, Bil
I think I have a good one for you. I have a 1990 q45. the air condition has been ginving problem. I have had it charged but for some reason the air blows out hot when I am driving but when I am sitting in one spot the air is so cold it runs you outta of there. what can cause that
Hello everyone. This is my first time posting a message, but I'm desperate for some good feedback. I recently came across a 2001 Q45 with 80.5k for around 8,000. I really don't know much about these cars but my previous car was a Lexus LS430. Supposedly, they are in the same class. That car was awesome, but I need to know if it's a good deal. It's not quite immaculate because it has a few paint dings, but I'm not a expert mechanic. If purchased what kinds of problems should I expect?
I own a 2002 Q45 and previously owned a 1994 Q45t. Both were/are driven well over 140K by me with no major problems. - the 97-01 models have a 4.1 V8 vice the 4.5 V8 that the earlier and current models have. - I have a couple of friends who own the 1997-2001 models and they are extremely pleased and have experienced no major problems. - I would attempt to get the service records to review. - Obviously the most important service is the oil/filter change intervals.
I would be very surprised if you experience any major issues (especially if you can ascertain that routine maintenance has been performed.
Thank you for your input. Besides that, I called that dealer and he said that there were no service records available. I just got a carfax also, and plan to take it to a mechanic for a once-over. Besides that, any other suggestions. Is 7,950 a fair price? The kbb retail value is about 9k.
Seriously though, assuming your plugs are OK, I would check the fuel system. Do you hear your fuel pump come on when you turn your key to the ON position?
My anti-lock light is on and my break light is on lightly. (dimmed) My anti-lock is not connected, but light is on. Then when I drive it, it sounds like it is reving higher, it does not sound like the normal engine sound.
Also, there is a humming in the back side of passenger, sounds like near the CD player which I think is off. I have not ever used it since I bought it. The other owner said she hit it accidently and it stopped working. I was told it was not my fuel pump. I have had the car for 5 years now and the humming for a few years. Can you help me? Thanks Jettb
I am new to this vehicle. I needed a car and didn't have a lot of money. I ran great when I purchased it. My experience since getting it home for a few days are as follows: 1. Didn't want to start 2. Smoke from exhaust is thick upon start up and thins out after 5-6 mins. 3. A/C blows HOT air. I'm told all I need to do for that is to get a belt and add freon.
Can anyone help this unattached lady who really needs to make this car work. Can't afford to pay a mechanic. Need help from you experts. thanks.
I recently bought a 1998 Q45 with 96k miles. Interior and body are in great condition. The drive has very few shakes. However, I recently brought it in for an oil change and brake inspection. One of the issues were a small leak (undetermined yet so they are doing a dye check). Another was that the struts need changing.
My question is, besides these items that could be related to the age of the car, are there other issues that I should be checking for or saving for? I really want this one to last as it still really is an awesome car.
I believe the maintenance schedule calls for spark plugs to be changed at 100K. - I am on my second Q45 (94 Q45t & 2002 Q45 w/Sport pkge) and changed plugs (platium) on both @ 100K. - I thought the engine ran more smoothly after the plug change. - Also check your belts and hoses. - I changed them on my 94 @ the nine year and 110K mark. - Belts showed noticeable wear, but hard to discern if hoses were getting weak. - In a hot climate it is probably smart to change out before a belt breaks or a hose burst and you end up with a hot engine (heat is the demise of an engine), - I was very pleased with my 94 (Son now has it and it has 224K on it) and love my 2002 even more (Navigation, voice recognition, etc.,.). Take care of your 98 and it will take care of you.
I am having some of the same problems that you did a few years ago: the speedometer failed, the power steering has gone out, and that TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION indicator comes on for about 20 seconds when I first start the car. A mechanic said I may have a problem with the Instrument cluster. What did your problem turn out to be? How expensive was it to fix? Could I do it myself?
#12 of 13 suspension by rposad Jun 02, 2009 (9:54 am) Save | Reply anybody please!!! i own an 02 q45 that has 61k miles and everything works perfect,but the suspension.it has a very rough ride and it makes no difference whether its on sport mode or auto mode.it makes no difference whatsoever,i could be on the high way or around my neighborhood it has a rough ride and can really feel the road. last week i took it to the dealership and they said that all suspension components are in good shape and they can lift it or lower it with their own computer but my sport-auto button does not work.i dont know if its supposed to be that way,or if i'm supposed to feel the diff between the 2 modes.can anyone please help me?otherwise i'm putting a for sale sign on it. i thought it was going to have a very smooth ride because they brag a lot about having a very smart independent suspension all around.THANKS A BUNCH
I just had a similar problem with my 95 Q and I had the dealer check for bad knock sensors. That was it!! I had the two knock sensors replaced with the harness and the problem was no more. These cars use knock sensors for optimum timing and gas usage. When they go bad, the car will misfire while driving or during acceleration.
Just got in car started it traction control light on saying its off and spin illuminated. can this be reset or is their a problem i need to have check out oh by the way its a 97 Q45
1997 infinity q45 145k. after starting car tcs off light illuminated and spin illuminated. has remain on. can it be reset? it will spin in gravel so the tcs is off. pushing button does not affect the light. help
I have a 97 infiniti Q45 that I may have to get rid of due to excessive repair costs. I have recently replaced all 8 fuel injectors and 2 knock sensors. The problem is that the car more often than not runs with a lack of power, but no other conditions. It occasionally misfires when idling. When driving the car and removing foot from gas pedal and then trying to accelerate, the engine will shake violently. It then is almost impossible to get the car to increase speed regardless of how much you push the accelerator. Once you pull off to the side of the road, the SLIP, TCS and CHECK ENGINE lights come one before the car stalls. My mechanic says the fault code is the air mass meter. Tried replacing it, but problem got worse. When you restart the car, it may run alright (still lack of power) or it may stall again. You may have to turn the car on and off several times before it will run acceptably. The problem seems to be worse when the fuel tank is low, or after a long downhill section of the road. Also, the car may run for a week between the violent "misfires". Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way, before I replaced the fuel injectors, I had the local dealership diagnose my problem, and they recommended the injector replacement.
I had the same problem for a while. I did everything from changing all 8 spark plugs, all injectors, air flow meter, egr valve, etc...none fixed the issue. So one day I decided to re-visit the spark plugs but this time I pulled apart the boots and the coil packs one at a time...VOILA...THERE...one of the coil packs had a tiny amount of oil right where the contact is...so that was oreventing it from sparking. I spray cleaned it and all other seven (just to be certain), let them dry and re-installed all. The car has been running like a wild horse on cocaine since then...I LOVE MY Q! One note...to maintain a Q, it helps to be handy or else you'll spend a lot of money.
I had a terrible problem with my 2001 Q45, with symptoms very much like those above. It even shifted gears poorly, if at all. A friend at a gas station hooked up his OBD Reader and got back Oxygen sensor problems and 3rd gear problems. I bought some catalyst cleaner from JC Whitney and put it in the gas. It stopped most of the problems immediately! The remaining problem is that when it starts it kinda lopes idling until I step on the gas and then it quits. It doesn't lope at traffic lights or other stops, just when I first start it it. Even if I drive a few miles and park it, it will still lope when first restarted.
Any ideas? (I swear that cat cleaner worked wonders!) Bil
My brake light has been going off and on for some time. Now the check engine light is coming on. The car has been serviced, so there is nothing wrong. Do I need a new sensor or could it be the alternator. If it is a sensor, how much does that cost.
My experience with Japanese cars is that when the alternator starts going bad, it first affects the sensors, causing the warning lights to come on. I've owned Japanese cars since my first 280ZX (first of four ZXs). Only problems were with alternators failing, like on my current car, a '01 Q45 Anniversary Sports model. Good luck, Bil
Question 1. Low beam headlight. How do I change it? From the front or back? From the back there is a wire that pops off but can't seem to remove the light, not sure it is the correct light anyway, it is next to a 2 inch round plastic unit with fins on it.
Question 2. When I am sitting a red light the engine starts missing and then when I start moving it misses for about the first 100 feet or so.
Question 1: I dunno Question 2: My 2001 Q45 "lopes" at idle, some of the time. A reading of the trouble code shows low fuel pressure. I'm waiting on delivery of the fuel pressure part now. Sure hope thats it.... If yours is a true "miss" it could be one of the plug wires. I had one go bad and they short out against the tube they sit in. Unfortunately, even though the wire is replaceable, it is not offered as a part. Had to buy the whole part. Bil
My 03 Q45 navigation and information screen went dark. The stereo and blower were still working at the settings they were at when it went dark, but no control buttons function. I couldn't find any blown fuses, nor could I find any listed as navigation or info center. Any ideas?
i just found out that the previous owner was using unleaded full in my 96 q45 infiniti. i also used it(twice). will it be fine for me to drive my car until the end of december, because i wont have the money to have the spark plugs changed until then. oh and i will use premium gas unil i have it repaired
Considering purchasing an 02 Q45. History shows "CATS are deteriorating" and "Needs catalyst." What does the catalyst do? Is this repair expensive? I would like to factor possible repair costs in as I negotiate the price on the car. Thanks.
There are 4 cats on the Q45. If you're a "dealer does all my work" kinda guy, maybe you should rethink buying it. Otherwise, I've seen them online for as low as ~$60. And surely all 4 won't need replacing. What I did was go to JCWhitney.com where they have a product you add to the gas and it will clean the cats. They send 2 bottles, under ~$20 shipped. Worked for me. Although the can says it cleans oxygen sensors, I had to replace 2 of them (online=$28 each). I love my 2000 Q45. Most reliable car I've ever owned, and I've had 85 or more cars. Good luck, Bil
2002Q - Bought just over a week ago. Takes a long time to for heater to kick in even after being cranked for 15+ minutes. Mechanic does not think it's a problem just the Infiniti thermostat takes longer. Anyone else experienced/experiencing this? Thoughts? Suggestions?
It cost me a hundred bucks to find it, but I found the problem with my navigation/info screen going dark. The Infiniti's have a known problem of the DVD drives shorting out. My guess is a cold solder. @ $4400.00 for a new one, I went with Ebay @ $400.00
I'm searching for someplace that can go through my original drive. If you know of someone let me know.
Do you remember the name of the catalyst cleaner you bought from JCWhitney? I tried to find it online and even talked with them but they did not seem to know what I was talking about.
I have a 2002 Q45 and I now have 156K on it. - The yellow service light has come on intermittenly the last 20K miles. - Code always indicated poor emission level on right bank. - I bought a can of Sea Foam @ Advance Auto and added it to a new tank of gas. - Problem has not returned for approx 4K miles. - Others I have talked with have had similar positive results on cleaning of catalytic converters.
I know that some manufacturers have auto faults pop up so you have to bring them in. Dodge even has a hidden relay up under the dash that has to be reset with a paperclip. You can try to disconnect the battery for several hours to see if that works. There could also be a fault in the system. Good luck. Jim
I have a 2002 Q45 that experienced the same blinking airbag warning light. - It is caused by a momentary loss of power to the airbag sensing system.
The way to reset is as follows: Turn the key on and as soon as the airbag light goes out (before it starts blinking) turn the key off. - Wait a few seconds and do the same thing two more times. - When you turn it on for the 4th time leave it on and the sensing system should have reset. - Note: it is essential that you turn the ignition off as soon as the airbag light goes out and before it starts blinking the first three times.
Wanted to let all you Q 45 owners out there know that my car has reached its limit so I am now selling the parts to anyone who may be interested. Was a great car!
Comments
In my removal I broke it down into hoses cables and the bolts and a couple more hoses when you get the manifold separated from the engine.
From memory, I get up on the engine and look behind the engine to the top of the block. You ll see a Y type hose going to the idle air valve and another metal tube that runs along the top of the block. Try and get some pliers on the hose clamp to the metal pipe side, remove this hose clamp only The other two sides do not need removed. Now your going to remove hose clamps on the valve cover. The largest ones in the middle of the cover next to the intake on the intake manifold. Theres two on the left valve cover and one on right valve cover. That is all the hoses for now
I switch to throttle cables next, the three on the right side of the engine. The two upper ones that go into the firewall must be removed, leave the other one alone. That one goes to the other side of engine throttle plate, and stays on the manifold when you lift it off. The two nuts are 14mm size. Use two wrenches and turn the nut on the firewall side of cable while holding the nut on the end of the cable side. If it doesn't move, you have your adjustment for later. Then lift cable off from between the metal clamp by open the throttle by hand at the lever next to these nuts and slide the end of the cable out of the slot made for removal. Then re-tighten the two nuts back together. I re-tighten the nut you loosened to the one that never moved.This is your adjustment point when you reinstall it. I mark this nut on the top with red paint for a reference in case it moves a little.
Next is the EGR valve. It can be hard to get to the tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. I used a 90 degree nut wrench. like those plumbers wrenches but lighter and smaller. Open it up to 15/16 and put on with the wrench towards the front of the engine and try to break it loose. Dont have to remove it completely. It helps to have all the wires on the valve cover out of the way. Then get the other end of this tube at the EGR Valve, it is 1 1/4 size.
Back to the hoses I missed the vacuum booster hose and its clamp on the top backside of engine and fuel regulator hoses.Its down under the manifold on the top of the block by the Y hose and the other fuel regulator diaphragm hose is next to the Idle Air Valve (IAC) on the back of the engine too but higher up on the left side as you sit in the car It pulls right off. One more hose clamp to be removed is on the front of the engine right side comes from the bottom of the manifold into the hoses you removed in the first paragraph. It is smaller, 3/8 size. and wont come off until you lift the manifold and twist the manifold as you remove it, then it comes off. This is the next to last hose holding the manifold on. The last hose is the coolant hoses. There is two, one on each side of the opening for the intake by the throttle valve. I hold the intake up in the air after you have removed the 16 10mm bolts holding it all down. I should have included it in the last step for bolts. Use a 2x4 wedge undr the manifold to keep it up while I remove these last two hose clamps. These are 3/8 size hoses with antifreeze in them. Now is a good time to start draining some of the coolant in the radiator before you start or these hoses will give you a small flood on top of the engine.
Oh yea I remove the two bolts (12mm) on the EGR Valve and remove it, This gives me more access to the last hose I just mentioned. Also remove the diaphram above it,on the top of the manifold next to the EGR. Two 10mm bolts hold the diaphram on.The only hoses that I didnt mention run along the valve cover to some metal tubes and solenoids on the left side of engine, they also get removed. They bolt to the left valve cover. I pull off the small hoses at each end and the two more that connecte to the intake by the throttle valve. The whole assembly of these hoses cant be removed until you remove the manifold.Remember to put it inplace first before you install the intake manifold on reinstallation.
Should anyone read this post and want pictures and details for a 96 Infinity send me a request.
Again, thanks for your help 'rearwheeldrive'.
Never bend or break anything on this car, parts are too expensive. I think I tried to get the cover off with it loose but I never had to bend it. It makes installation easier to remove it completely once you get the valve cover off. The right side cover is tough getting around the A/C lines I used a 1/4 drive socket wrapped in masking tape to help my two fingers loosen the bolt because the ratchet gets in the way of the A/C lines The fuel lines I left on too.
My pic's are detailed, but I have them in two different software programs and cant find then in the old software that pops up in the download window of this site. I'll find them today.
Sounds like the battery is dead. What is the voltage?. If you dont have a meter Radio Shack sells one for $4.00 dollars.
I think your car has something draining it. To immediately fix this, disconnect the ground cable at the battery every time you park the car. Mine is 13mm size nut on the negative (ground) side of the battery.. Its the correct cable to disconnect when you want to take electric battery power off the whole car, not the positive or red cable, its the hot one Since the NEG. cable is wired to the car body at the other end of the cable, the battery won't short out or spark if your wrench accidentally touches the car metal too when loosening it.
Its the positive cable that goes to all the switches and fuses that is hot, and is never touching the car body. If you accidentally touch the wrench to the car body when your removing it first instead, you would cause a direct short in the electric system bypassing all the switches and fuses and electric parts, and cause sparks too.
The dealership said they were going to give me a call the next day. I get a call 11:30AM the next day informing me that my car was no longer in the lot. I was even asked if I had come back to the dealership that same night to pick up my car with my spare (So I'm the victim here and I get accused of taking my car). They "discovered" the car missing AM and it took them 4 hours to contact me. I immediately head over to the dealership to file a police report. They have no clue as to what happened. No internal investigation was done. No camera footage was available. Basically considered the whole matter as between me and my insurance. They were very passive and had poor customer service. I love Infiniti and if you car about your's, I highly suggest don't bring it in to Frontier Infiniti on Stevens Creek (San Jose, CA).
:shades:
Can anyone help?
Thank you kindly,
James S.
James
Good luck,
Bil
I would be very surprised if you experience any major issues (especially if you can ascertain that routine maintenance has been performed.
Seriously though, assuming your plugs are OK, I would check the fuel system. Do you hear your fuel pump come on when you turn your key to the ON position?
My anti-lock light is on and my break light is on lightly. (dimmed) My anti-lock is not connected, but light is on. Then when I drive it, it sounds like it is reving higher, it does not sound like the normal engine sound.
Also, there is a humming in the back side of passenger, sounds like near the CD player which I think is off. I have not ever used it since I bought it. The other owner said she hit it accidently and it stopped working. I was told it was not my fuel pump. I have had the car for 5 years now and the humming for a few years. Can you help me? Thanks Jettb
1. Didn't want to start
2. Smoke from exhaust is thick upon start up and thins out after 5-6 mins.
3. A/C blows HOT air. I'm told all I need to do for that is to get a belt and add freon.
Can anyone help this unattached lady who really needs to make this car work. Can't afford to pay a mechanic. Need help from you experts.
thanks.
Great forum. This is really a great site.
I recently bought a 1998 Q45 with 96k miles. Interior and body are in great condition. The drive has very few shakes. However, I recently brought it in for an oil change and brake inspection. One of the issues were a small leak (undetermined yet so they are doing a dye check). Another was that the struts need changing.
My question is, besides these items that could be related to the age of the car, are there other issues that I should be checking for or saving for? I really want this one to last as it still really is an awesome car.
Thanks!
Take care of your 98 and it will take care of you.
anybody please!!!
i own an 02 q45 that has 61k miles and everything works perfect,but the suspension.it has a very rough ride and it makes no difference whether its on sport mode or auto mode.it makes no difference whatsoever,i could be on the high way or around my neighborhood it has a rough ride and can really feel the road. last week i took it to the dealership and they said that all suspension components are in good shape and they can lift it or lower it with their own computer but my sport-auto button does not work.i dont know if its supposed to be that way,or if i'm supposed to feel the diff between the 2 modes.can anyone please help me?otherwise i'm putting a for sale sign on it. i thought it was going to have a very smooth ride because they brag a lot about having a very smart independent suspension all around.THANKS A BUNCH
One note...to maintain a Q, it helps to be handy or else you'll spend a lot of money.
The remaining problem is that when it starts it kinda lopes idling until I step on the gas and then it quits. It doesn't lope at traffic lights or other stops, just when I first start it it. Even if I drive a few miles and park it, it will still lope when first restarted.
Any ideas?
(I swear that cat cleaner worked wonders!)
Bil
need a new sensor or could it be the alternator. If it is a sensor, how much does
that cost.
Good luck,
Bil
Question 2. When I am sitting a red light the engine starts missing and then when I start moving it misses for about the first 100 feet or so.
Any suggestions? Thanks
Question 2: My 2001 Q45 "lopes" at idle, some of the time. A reading of the trouble code shows low fuel pressure. I'm waiting on delivery of the fuel pressure part now. Sure hope thats it....
If yours is a true "miss" it could be one of the plug wires. I had one go bad and they short out against the tube they sit in. Unfortunately, even though the wire is replaceable, it is not offered as a part. Had to buy the whole part.
Bil
What I did was go to JCWhitney.com where they have a product you add to the gas and it will clean the cats. They send 2 bottles, under ~$20 shipped. Worked for me. Although the can says it cleans oxygen sensors, I had to replace 2 of them (online=$28 each).
I love my 2000 Q45. Most reliable car I've ever owned, and I've had 85 or more cars.
Good luck,
Bil
Question 2. my car cut off while driving and i tried to restart it and it work but yhe second time it would in't start can somebody help me ? Thx
I'm searching for someplace that can go through my original drive. If you know of someone let me know.
Do you remember the name of the catalyst cleaner you bought from JCWhitney? I tried to find it online and even talked with them but they did not seem to know what I was talking about.
Thanks.
Joe
Jim
The way to reset is as follows: Turn the key on and as soon as the airbag light goes out (before it starts blinking) turn the key off. - Wait a few seconds and do the same thing two more times. - When you turn it on for the 4th time leave it on and the sensing system should have reset. - Note: it is essential that you turn the ignition off as soon as the airbag light goes out and before it starts blinking the first three times.
Good Luck. Joe W.
I'll give it a try tomorrow.