I've written about this before, but am still looking for help since its now a warranty dispute. The dashboard in my 03 has split and the adhesive has failed along the edge of the panel that houses the speakers resulting in a "bubble" of lifted vinyl. I finally have a meeting scheduled next week with the regional Infiniti rep and would really appreciate some info on any similar problems and how Infiniti handled those issues. Thank you.
Thanks 96qowner. What I mean about taking off in 2nd is...is it recommended to do city driving in 2nd gear (or o/d off) as wess has recommended for earlier models?
Ah, I think he meant 3rd - same as D2? There's a slight dead spot in the low end of 4th gear - makes the engine lug - so it's better to put it in 3rd if you're not on the highway. Not a great big deal - just more responsive. It causes the most trouble on long straight inclines (and bad knock sensors makes it worse )
Thanks again. Actually my gearbox is R-N-D-2-1, I think, plus O/D off. So maybe I should start off in 2, then proceed to Drive, but with O/D off in the city.
LATELY WHEN I AM DRIVING THE TCS/SLIP LIGHTS COME ON. AFTER I TURN THE CAR OFF THERE IS A HUMMING NOISE COMING FROM UNDER THE HOOD. I HAVE COME TO FIND OUT THIS IS DRAINING THE BATTERY. WHAT IS THIS HUMMING NOISE AND WHAT CAUSES IT
Almost certainly it is coming from the ABS unit (its in the left rear of the engine compartment, has 3 small cylinders with 5 lines going into it). When you shut the engine off and you hear it humming, tap it gently with a hammer. The humming will stop. If it does not stop humming after several taps, or it stops but the problem persists, you will have to have the unit replaced.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP. NOW I NEED TO ASK ANOTHER QUESTION. WHEN THE MESSAGE BOARD READS LOW BATTERY CHARGE AND I HAVE REPLACED THE BATTERY DOES THAT MEAN THE ALTERNATOR IS GOING OUT OR IS BAD
I was wondering if anyone has experienced a problem with the navigation screen going blank. I have a 2002 Q45 and the screen would turn off occasionally. The climate control cannot be adjusted and the radio turns off. None of the buttons to control any of this work once the screen goes blank. It popped off a a few times a couple of months ago but the next time I started the car it worked fine. Now every time I start the car the screen is off none of the controls work. The Infiniti dealership told me over the phone they would have to send the unit to CA and could take up to three weeks. Has anyone out there had to fix this problem before and can you tell me what the problem was? Thanks in advance, I appreciate it!
Hello ...just found the site and joined on here...I have a 1991 Infiniti Q45 that ran great until about a week ago. It acts like it wants to turn over but will not. The battery is fine..also the fuses...any awnsers for me...lol a woman here...
MY 94 Q45 WITH 165K MILES HAS BEGUN HAVING TRANS PROBLEMS . WHEN COLD THE TRANS WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR WHEN SHIFTED INTO D POSITION.IT WILL RESPOND IF SHIFTED ON DOWN INTO 3. IT ALSO WILL NOT SHIFT FROM 2 TO 3 UNLESS YOU ACCEL. UP TO ABOUT 4K RPM AND LET OFF TO MAKE IT SHIFT. ONCE IT IS WARMED UP IT SHIFTS PERFECTLY. IT HAS RECENTLY BEEN SERVICED WITH NEW FILTER AND FLUID. THE OLD FLUID WAS VERY CLEAN AND NOT BURNT, IT HAS BEEN SERVICED ONCE BEFORE AT ABOUT 100K. THE SELF DIAGNOSIS REVEALS NO CODES FOR ANY TRANS COMPONENTS TO CHECK. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY ADVISE ON WHAT I COULD THAT MIGHT HELP THIS SITUATION. THANKS I
I own an 02 Q45 sport. I decided to replace the sparkplugs one day, not for any reason except for my knowledge of new plugs in my car. I went to the autoparts place and bought 8 plugs. I went home and pulled the first one out of the car and compared it to the new ones. It was the WRONG plug. I went back and asked them to double check their computer and find the correct plug. They said I had the correct one. I did many internet searches and everybody claims the same part number that is WRONG. After reading the tech manual, I found the correct part number and had to get the store to order them for me.
My point is that a TECH at firestone makes a phone call and says I need 8 plugs for an 02 Q45 4.5 . The auto parts guy looks it up and sends the driver with the parts. In the mean time the mechanic removes all the plugs waiting for the new ones to arrive. When they do he puts the (CORRECT) ones in. Not even paying attention that they are shorter and I think colder than OEM.
They will work fine for lets say 500 miles and then the car says NO this is not right. The mechanic swears he did the job correctly but the wrong plug is installed. Not reallly his fault but our cars are rare, unlike a Ford or Chevy.
Pull a spark plug and check with the Dealer to make sure it is the correct one.
I have a 1997 Q45 with 118000MI. MY goal is to keep it to 300000MI. I have taken very good care of the car ,e.g. always change oil& filter, new front brakes,new tires,OXY Sensor, change belts,change Rack and Pinion+ Pump recently.My question is : can you recommend the top 10 things I should be doing to keep it going strong.The car is a piece of ART.
I am glad to find comments and concerns from other owners of the Q45! My Q will be 3 yrs old in July and now has approx. 30K miles. Though I've had minor irritants from dealer maintenance, overall this darn thing gets better every day! Driver Info Center has flickered on/off 2 or 3 times, sound system has gone off a time or two but always comes back on, recall on tail lights, engine seems to "pull back" when I get the nerves to do more than 120 MPH. Over the years I drove the Vette, the "Baby" Benz, BMW, Volvo and Eldo to finally get here! Gotta learn the "how-2-doos" on the Navigation System. Any suggestions?
Is there a such thing as a transmission module or modulator for my 96' O-45? If so, I think I may need to replace it.. so I've been told. My transmission wont shift in to Drive after I start it, even after a tranny flush. It will go into 3rd, then after a while I can shift it in D, but what do I need to fix to get my car to shift normally?
I HAVE A SLIGHT LEAK IN THE RACK, SLIGHT LEAK IN THE PUMP, THEY NEED TO BE REPLACED. HOWEVER, AFTER A SHORT TIME DRIVING, 3 TO 4 MINUTES, THE HICAS LIGHT COMES ON AND THE ENTIRE POWER STEERING SHUTS DOWN. RUNS FINE, JUST NO EASY STEER. COULD THIS BE A MALFUNCTION OF THE HICAS PUMP, LOCATED ABOUT MIDWAY BACK UNDER CHASSIS? AND HOW DO I TEST THIS PART, OR REPLACE IT. 156K MILES, SUPER NICE Q, CUSTOM EXHAUST, LOVE THIS CAR, BUT...
have a problem i have a 04 q sat morning got my car is parked in my drive way on a incline got in temp was about 40 degrees started it up and the car made a tapping noise for about a afew min when it warmed the tapping went a way it did it later that night after a few min it went away the car is well mantain with about 50.000 miles on it should i take it in for service
My 02 Q45 :shades: passenger side headlight quit working recently. It started by coming on and going off at certain times. If I played with the switch turning it off and on it would come on. However now it will not do anything? What are my options. I would like to repair it myself.
okay, i just put in an alternator and battery about 3 months ago. Now my battery is running low. my brake light will not go out and when i am stopped for a long period of time my tcs and anti-lock brake light come on. what is the problem.
Damd56, It is one of two things. The bulb or the ballast. Normally it is the bulb. They are expensive. You can switch the bulbs around an see if it does the same on the drivers side. Then it is the bulb. You should replace them in pairs! A good online place is plasmagarage.com Ivy
I attempted to start my 97.5 Q45 one morning, and the engine turn over, caught, ran rough for a minute or two. I turn the car off, and attempted to restart the engine, however the ignition turned over and over, but the car wouldn't start. I can't tell if there is a problem with the injector or the fuel pump has gone out (car has 125K mi). Is there a anything that I can do to test the injectors or the fuel pump? Or, is there something else that I should check? Thanks for any feedback on my problem.
If you turn the key to the "ON" position you should hear a slight humming coming from the area of the fuel tank for a few seconds. If you don't hear any sound, your fuel pump is bad.
Not good at transmission problems but the fluid burned up the seals around the Torque converter. The transmission will have to be drop down to inspect the seals in this area.
I'm sure you checked the fluid and it was burnt smelling. Transmission must be(running) when the car is moving down the road. When running, it keeps the fluid pumping through the transmission and out to the cooler up by the radiator. Its like you running your engine and had the water pump disconnected. The water wont circulate around the engine and out to the radiator if the water pump is not running too.
The transmission operates the same.When the car is moving, the transmission Torque Converter is actually moving too! The force of the rear tires instead of the force of the engine is turning it. This creates a hot condition in the transmission because the engine is not running the oil pump in the transmission to keep it cool.
The Torque Converter is like a couple of fans that face each other. Throw in some transmission fluid and you have force from one fan driving the other fan. The force from the engine drives the other fan connected to the rear tires via the fluid, no mechanical contact. In your case the engine side was not running it also runs the pump I was mentioning above. The fluid from the rear tire side got hot when the engine side was acting like a restrictor for the flow of oil out of the transmission..
Now you know, to leave your engine running if your going to tow your car any length of time. The tow people should have told you to keep the driving wheels off the ground or disconnect the drive shaft that goes to the rear wheels from the transmission.
My 1990 hit a flat spot when turning it over . I dont believe its the battery cause it turned right over a few seconds later when i got it in the garage a little crooked and started up again to realign it .
Done this once before . I 'll check amp draw during start at the Autozone when I get a chance.
I just became the proud papa of an ultra clean '94 Q45. Here's my dilemma. The car has broken the driver's door locking mechanism. It has now gone into security "shock". I did get the door to "lock" itself, not that I could tell, and when I opened the door it went bonkers. Long story short, I cannot get it to turn over. I have tried lock/unlock with the key and so forth. My key fob beeps at me, it will not operate anything on the car. I really don't want to mess with the rip offs at the dealership. I'm pretty mech inclined, just need a shove into a right direction.
1994 Q Never had a car with remote and all thatbeeping alarms, but its a good question for alarm experts.
I can get in to my wire diagrams on my 1990 to see the logic in the wiring for a door lock broke.It could have energized the cutout starter relay. I've seen something labeled cutout once I believe on mine. Sometimes I remove the battery ground connection, it wipes out the memory in the computer. I guess kinda like the Restart button on computers.
i have a 91 q45a and it lifts when started but drops faston cut off, should i change struts-rack&pinon,or strut, or accuators/ and if struts do anyone know where to struts, i am from orlando,fla.
ok my nephew bought a 91 q45a at first i thought he was crazy but come to find out not so crazy the guy he bought it fromreally famboozled him . long story short its on the ground like a old lincoln the fluid container is empty for the active ride and the right rear tire has about a 20 degree tilt inward. i am hoping that by replacing the accumulators and refilling the fluid (if you know what it is please tell me) she will lift back up any advice would be greratly appreciated . you can e-mail me at bigdaddygpk05@yahoo.com. thank you in advance for all your help.
Hi all: My '92Q has developed a loud buzz in the rear speakers. It does not vary in intensity with engine speed and the radio/CD/Tape still plays through them, but the buzz is loud and constant. it doesn't matter if I'm tuned into a radio station, or set the radio to no statio, the buzz persists. Fading from front to rear or changing from left to right balance also has no effect. I'd change out the rear speakers, but don't want to do that if the probolem might be in the head unit. Any thoughts?THANKS! I miss my tunes.
if you're still using the factory speakers, this is what happens when the amps go bad. It's likely the amps. If you look at the rear speakers, you'd see a black plastic housing. Inside this housing are the amps for each speaker. You'd need to replace the amps. You can change the speakers to aftermarket, but be prepared not to get the same sound quality/clarity unless you're willing to change the head unit to an aftermarket as well. All four speakers have individual amp built in. They go bad after time. Good luck!
I PURCHASED MY Q45 IN 2005 AND NOW HAVE A LITTLE MORE THAN 33,000 MILES. TODAY I NOTICED THAT I HAVE GONE 3,000 MILES PAST THE SCHEDULED MAINTENACE THAT WAS DUE AT 30,000. THE MAINT MANAGER INFORMED ME THAT THIS NEXT VISIT WILL COST FROM $900 TO $1,000. MY Q IS GARAGED MOST OF THE TIME BECAUSE I DRIVE MY 2nd AUTO. I TRY TO AVOID ANY UNNECESSARY COST, SO I HAVE TIRES ROTATED & BALANCED AND OIL/FILTER CHANGES AT A LOCAL FACILITY. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE AND REPLACE ALL OF THE PARTS (WIPER BLADES, BELTS AND ETC.) THAT THE DEALER RECOMMENDS :confuse:
I would review the recommended maintenance items before I let the dealer perform the items. - I have a 2002 Q45 and do virtually all the routine maintenance. - I follow the recommended intervals for the fluids/filters, tire rotation, etc.,.and make judgement calls on items such as the serpentine belts (I believe there are three) hoses, wiper blades, etc.,.-
My first Q45 (94 Q45t) is still in the family and has 213,000 miles. - I changed the serpentine belts and radiator hoses @ 100K and 200K, but inspected both along the way. - My 2002 Q has 136,000 and I have followed the same approach.
It is my observation that the dealer follows the "one size fits all" approach and if replaces items that don't necessarily need replacing. - I also notice that many of the items are "check" vice actual maintenace/replacement.
The only items I had performed at the dealer was the 100k platinum spark pluy replacement.
Sounds like you got a good maintenance record. My Q-45 is a 1990. Its similar to the 1994 then the rear wheel drive was dropped.
Like the last post I regularly change the oil and oil filter every other change according to the Q-45 service manual. 30K maintenance consist of one extra item the coolant, then every two years or 30K. Also change the air filter at 30K.
I want to get under mine and change the rear differential fluid transmission fluid this year it has 125K on it.The platinum plugs should be changed at 60Kin my manual.
My 1990 is on a blog at my Carspace.com/rearwheeldrive
I dont get forum notices when someone ask a question.I I thought I did, and missed a months or so worth of old Q-45 questions.
Your problem sounds like air induction. The engine is revving could be a leak somewhere in the vacuum lines . One thing I noticed when I tear mine down is all the ventilation hoses and clamps. the design is not like a traditional PCV system. The PCV is on the left rocker at the back and maybe one on the right too.
Another area to check is the two hoses going into the duct that's going from the air filter to the Intake manifold. Squeeze this duct too to see if engine starts to run wild. It could be old and have a crack or leak This is critical to the MAF like in the last post If the MAF is bad it will run in default mode. You can disconnect the electrical connector to this part, it is right at the air filter where the part of the duct is square, as it leaves the air filter.
I know its late but I hope you got the problem fixed if not I hope this helps.
I also need to change a headlight ballast on my 02 Q45. I have not been able to find any information on how to do so. Did anyone ever respond and let you know how to replace?
I just bought a Q45 and it seems that the car is shutting itself down when i try to start it. I put a new battery in the car because when i bought it the old one was dead. Drove home and tried to start it and it seems the car is in a security mode or something the relay for the security is missing. There is no power to the car itself but a clicking noise coming from somewhere on the passenger side of the motor. Im not sure what else i can say so any help would be great. Thank you.
I get the same noise too. It happened this morning and another time when the battery was low.
I pulled the relays in the black box till it went off it was the one marked inhibit I never traced it back to see what it went to but it was not starting only just cranking . I guessed it was just low on battery charge and causing the buzz.
Inhibit relay goes to a module under the dash I think it was security or alarm module.I got my service manual here and will look it up.
Thank you mine wouldn't even crank but i pulled the cables and put a charger on it last night getting ready to go crank it now see whats up. I will look into the inhibit relay.
No luck HELP!!!!! After i reconnected the battery i got in to crank it and it turned over for like 2 seconds and didnt fire then went dead... By dead i mean the battery is charged but the car acted like it had a dead battery then it turned all electrical in the car off again like a protect mode or something. Any ideas????
Comments
Thank you.
My point is that a TECH at firestone makes a phone call and says I need 8 plugs for an 02 Q45 4.5 . The auto parts guy looks it up and sends the driver with the parts. In the mean time the mechanic removes all the plugs waiting for the new ones to arrive. When they do he puts the (CORRECT) ones in. Not even paying attention that they are shorter and I think colder than OEM.
They will work fine for lets say 500 miles and then the car says NO this is not right.
The mechanic swears he did the job correctly but the wrong plug is installed. Not reallly his fault but our cars are rare, unlike a Ford or Chevy.
Pull a spark plug and check with the Dealer to make sure it is the correct one.
Hope this helps.
Gotta learn the "how-2-doos" on the Navigation System. Any suggestions?
If so, I think I may need to replace it.. so I've been told. My transmission wont shift in to Drive after I start it, even after a tranny flush. It will go into 3rd, then after a while I can shift it in D, but what do I need to fix to get my car to shift normally?
i am new to GF50
i got my car yesterday indeed
but i can't find any indication for the tranmission fluid meter inside the engine compartment and the user manual as well
anyone could help???????
thanks
It is one of two things. The bulb or the ballast. Normally it is the bulb. They are expensive. You can switch the bulbs around an see if it does the same on the drivers side. Then it is the bulb. You should replace them in pairs! A good online place is plasmagarage.com
Ivy
JERRY
I will attempt to help you out.
i am so scared about i had not pour enough oil into it
what is it about???????
Not good at transmission problems but the fluid burned up the seals around the Torque converter. The transmission will have to be drop down to inspect the seals in this area.
I'm sure you checked the fluid and it was burnt smelling. Transmission must be(running) when the car is moving down the road. When running, it keeps the fluid pumping through the transmission and out to the cooler up by the radiator. Its like you running your engine and had the water pump disconnected. The water wont circulate around the engine and out to the radiator if the water pump is not running too.
The transmission operates the same.When the car is moving, the transmission Torque Converter is actually moving too! The force of the rear tires instead of the force of the engine is turning it. This creates a hot condition in the transmission because the engine is not running the oil pump in the transmission to keep it cool.
The Torque Converter is like a couple of fans that face each other. Throw in some transmission fluid and you have force from one fan driving the other fan. The force from the engine drives the other fan connected to the rear tires via the fluid, no mechanical contact. In your case the engine side was not running it also runs the pump I was mentioning above. The fluid from the rear tire side got hot when the engine side was acting like a restrictor for the flow of oil out of the transmission..
Now you know, to leave your engine running if your going to tow your car any length of time. The tow people should have told you to keep the driving wheels off the ground or disconnect the drive shaft that goes to the rear wheels from the transmission.
My 1990 hit a flat spot when turning it over . I dont believe its the battery cause it turned right over a few seconds later when i got it in the garage a little crooked and started up again to realign it .
Done this once before . I 'll check amp draw during start at the Autozone when I get a chance.
Your help is GREATLY appreciated..!!
Chad
I can get in to my wire diagrams on my 1990 to see the logic in the wiring for a door lock broke.It could have energized the cutout starter relay. I've seen something labeled cutout once I believe on mine. Sometimes I remove the battery ground connection, it wipes out the memory in the computer. I guess kinda like the Restart button on computers.
Does the hood release still work?
long story short its on the ground like a old lincoln the fluid container is empty for the active ride and the right rear tire has about a 20 degree tilt inward. i am hoping that by replacing the accumulators and refilling the fluid (if you know what it is please tell me) she will lift back up any advice would be greratly appreciated .
you can e-mail me at bigdaddygpk05@yahoo.com. thank you in advance for all your help.
Im going to replace the speakers someday. Mine will go away if I shut off the powwer and turn it back on.
All four speakers have individual amp built in. They go bad after time.
Good luck!
I TRY TO AVOID ANY UNNECESSARY COST, SO I HAVE TIRES ROTATED & BALANCED AND OIL/FILTER CHANGES AT A LOCAL FACILITY. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE AND REPLACE ALL OF THE PARTS (WIPER BLADES, BELTS AND ETC.) THAT THE DEALER RECOMMENDS :confuse:
My first Q45 (94 Q45t) is still in the family and has 213,000 miles. -
I changed the serpentine belts and radiator hoses @ 100K and 200K, but inspected both along the way. - My 2002 Q has 136,000 and I have followed the same approach.
It is my observation that the dealer follows the "one size fits all" approach and if replaces items that don't necessarily need replacing. - I also notice that many of the items are "check" vice actual maintenace/replacement.
The only items I had performed at the dealer was the 100k platinum spark pluy replacement.
Like the last post I regularly change the oil and oil filter every other change according to the Q-45 service manual. 30K maintenance consist of one extra item the coolant, then every two years or 30K. Also change the air filter at 30K.
I want to get under mine and change the rear differential fluid transmission fluid this year it has 125K on it.The platinum plugs should be changed at 60Kin my manual.
My 1990 is on a blog at my Carspace.com/rearwheeldrive
Your problem sounds like air induction. The engine is revving could be a leak somewhere in the vacuum lines . One thing I noticed when I tear mine down is all the ventilation hoses and clamps. the design is not like a traditional PCV system. The PCV is on the left rocker at the back and maybe one on the right too.
Another area to check is the two hoses going into the duct that's going from the air filter to the Intake manifold. Squeeze this duct too to see if engine starts to run wild. It could be old and have a crack or leak This is critical to the MAF like in the last post If the MAF is bad it will run in default mode. You can disconnect the electrical connector to this part, it is right at the air filter where the part of the duct is square, as it leaves the air filter.
I know its late but I hope you got the problem fixed if not I hope this helps.
Warmest regards,
Travis
I pulled the relays in the black box till it went off it was the one marked inhibit I never traced it back to see what it went to but it was not starting only just cranking . I guessed it was just low on battery charge and causing the buzz.
Inhibit relay goes to a module under the dash I think it was security or alarm module.I got my service manual here and will look it up.