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Nissan Maxima Electrical Issues
My 2003 Maxima has been trouble free but the battery recently died. After replacing the battery, resetting radio presets, etc. I discovered that the sunroof would not respond to the switch. It worked the day before the battery died. I couldn't find any blown fuses. Can there really be a connection between a battery failure and sunroof failure? Thanks for any help.
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Comments
also. It has something to do with when you
replaced the battery. My trusty Max was totalled in a wreck back in July, so as I sit
here today, I can't remember how I got it to
work. I know it was something really simple.
I remember thinking, uh-oh, I'm gonna have to
take it in to be looked at(I was just out of
my warranty at the time). And then voila!
It worked the next day. I wish I could remember what I did, but it will work. You
might want to give the Nissan dealer a call.
They probably could tell you exactly what to
do over the phone, as they should know once
you tell them a new battery was put in. Good
luck!! Or better yet, you might want to check
in your manual. It's possible the answer is
in there.
I took it to my mechanic today and he said that it was unrealed to the battery and said it was probably a switch or fuse problems and to bring it back to him on Monday. A few moments later he said wait a minute and slipped inside, pushed on the button and the sunroom worked! I said what did you do? He replied "i have magic fingers..no charge".
related to the battery being replaced. If you
get a chance, check your manual. I keep thinking that there might have been something
I found in there about this when I was trying
to get my sunroof to work when I had my Max.
Thanks, Donnie
I'm having a very similar problem, but am not sure if it has to do with the hot weather or not. My '97 Maxima has always been stubborn about turning over. It has often not turned over on the first try, but then after I push the brake down or turn the steering wheel and try again it has always started up just fine.
Today it won't budge. It just makes that clicking sound and I see a little pulley move near the engine, but that's it.
Any ideas?
After an extensive diagnosis, the Nissan dealer service rep said that the problem is that my main electrical harness had been cut and that my ECM needed to be replaced. Now prior to this current problem, my car was running fine.
So I'm thinking that one of the mechanics previous to the dealer cut the harness because my car probably would not run with the cut harness, right? Anyhow, I need to know my options because my dealer said that the ECM unit is $880 and the harness is $1,800, plus another few senors and with labor, my total cost would be $3,900, which I definately don't have.
What options do I have? Can I buy the ECM and harness somewhere else and have an Electrical mechanic put it in? Is this a difficult job to do? Please help! Any advice would be so appreciated! By the way, for reference, I live in Temple City, CA. Thanks so much for your help!!!
My husband is wondering if it is the shock.
Any help would be appreciated.
You can e-mail me direct at johnny2521@msn.com :confuse:
THANKS
Try cleaning up up the negative battery ground on the engine block.
Had the same problem, that helped
Try cleaning up the battery negative ground on the engine block.
That solved the problem on my 1995 Max SE
I took it to mechanic #1 and he replaced the battery. The problem continued and then we replaced the alternator. The problem continued for 6 more months and then started happening more frequently.
Then, my brother took it to the VW dealership where he works and we replaced and oxygen sensor and a nocs sensor (not sure of spelling).
I got the car back and the problem persisted, so I took it to another mechanic #3 and we replaced the relay to the ignition, the electric parts of the ignition switch, and I put in another alternator.
It has been 16 months since the problem started and I have put thousands of dollars into this car. The only explanation has been, "there must be a short somewhere." Any suggestions to find the root of the problem.
Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it isn't defective. I once had new batteries fail in a row. You may have a "vampire" drain on the door lock actuator or the window motor that is drawing down current on the battery after the car is turned off.
Is this just a fuse issue?
Replaced injectors
When warm, right as closed loop, sets code.
Tach will fluctuate, work normal, go dead intermittently.
Data shows fuel pump circuit fault and Air Flow Sensor fault intermittently.
When (rich/lean) Compensation goes lean, engine light illuminates, when it goes rich, light goes off.
When tach is dead, no engine light at all.
Always code 51.
I cleaned Air Flow Sensor, all grounds and batt. terminals, still get open injector fault code.
Could be distributor or cap, plugs, wires, coil, other if just misfire, but
with fuel pump losing voltage it could lose pressure to 6th injector, no?
The tach ...I think is somewhere in intermittent open, yes?
I am going to test conductivity from ECM harness plug to fuel pump et al, and maybe ohm test wires, plugs and whatever component I can if I find schematic.
Could it be something in the loom by right strut mount?
Anyone have this problem? Is it ECM? or harness short? or some combo deal to throw more parts at?
Thanks for any ideas...
My stepson has the 1996 Nissan Maxima from .... Every major artery has been changed in order to get the car crank and turn over. All sensors replaced, fuel pump, alternator, starter, coils, plugs...you name it. We just changed the ECM Computer...The car ran great for four hours then suddenly decided not to start. We spoke to the mechanic and he says that he thinks the plugs are fouled with fuel that is bypass a faulty fuel injector, After $1200 I am out of money and ideas. Please help.
Jcioffi852@aol.com
Does anybody experiance this problem before? if so, what is it?
So if the car cranks but doesn't start, first step is to see what isn't happening---either:
a no spark
b. no fuel
c. no compression
So you get a spark tester and start there. If there is spark, then you get a NOID light to test for injector pulse, and a fuel pressure gauge to check for fuel pressure in the fuel rail. If there is spark, and fuel, then you do a compression test.