Nissan Maxima Electrical Issues

dgr008dgr008 Member Posts: 6
My 2003 Maxima has been trouble free but the battery recently died. After replacing the battery, resetting radio presets, etc. I discovered that the sunroof would not respond to the switch. It worked the day before the battery died. I couldn't find any blown fuses. Can there really be a connection between a battery failure and sunroof failure? Thanks for any help.
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Comments

  • maximafanmaximafan Member Posts: 592
    Hi, dgr008. This happened on my 2002 Maxima
    also. It has something to do with when you
    replaced the battery. My trusty Max was totalled in a wreck back in July, so as I sit
    here today, I can't remember how I got it to
    work. I know it was something really simple.
    I remember thinking, uh-oh, I'm gonna have to
    take it in to be looked at(I was just out of
    my warranty at the time). And then voila!
    It worked the next day. I wish I could remember what I did, but it will work. You
    might want to give the Nissan dealer a call.
    They probably could tell you exactly what to
    do over the phone, as they should know once
    you tell them a new battery was put in. Good
    luck!! Or better yet, you might want to check
    in your manual. It's possible the answer is
    in there.
  • dgr008dgr008 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the feed back.
    I took it to my mechanic today and he said that it was unrealed to the battery and said it was probably a switch or fuse problems and to bring it back to him on Monday. A few moments later he said wait a minute and slipped inside, pushed on the button and the sunroom worked! I said what did you do? He replied "i have magic fingers..no charge".
  • maximafanmaximafan Member Posts: 592
    Good deal, dgr008. But I do believe it was
    related to the battery being replaced. If you
    get a chance, check your manual. I keep thinking that there might have been something
    I found in there about this when I was trying
    to get my sunroof to work when I had my Max.
  • damnyankee44damnyankee44 Member Posts: 7
    Anyone know if it's possible to disable the feature of having the front windows open when the open button is held down on the remote? The windows on my Maxima and Titan open up at night sometimes from stuff in my pocket pushing on the remote button. The owners manual doesn't offer any way to disable this feature.
  • slybrislybri Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 Maxima is lighting up like a christmas tree. The service engine light came on, so I went and got it fixed. My mechanic said he fixed what the code told him to fix (and I believe him). But the light came back on and he can't figure out why. Now my driver side airbag light keeps blinking. Anybody have any advice on what to do? I'm trying not to have to take it to the dealership to get fixed. Thanks!
  • dgr008dgr008 Member Posts: 6
    My 2003 Maxima doesn't have this feature but I wonder if setting the power window lock out button (the one that prevents anyone other than the driver from lowering the windows)might prevent this from happening?
  • donniemcdonniemc Member Posts: 1
    My 95 Maxima won't start in hot weather until several turns of the key.I believe(hopefully), that it's the ignition switch. I bought the little harness assembly and am in the process of trying to put it on.My mechanic experience is very limited.I have a couple of things off under the steering column and I have spotted the old harness.It looks pretty simple to change out.Any advice?Do I need to detach the negative cable from the battery?

    Thanks, Donnie
  • masetimemasetime Member Posts: 3
    Hi Donnie, did you ever figure out the cause of your ignition problem? or how to solve it?

    I'm having a very similar problem, but am not sure if it has to do with the hot weather or not. My '97 Maxima has always been stubborn about turning over. It has often not turned over on the first try, but then after I push the brake down or turn the steering wheel and try again it has always started up just fine.

    Today it won't budge. It just makes that clicking sound and I see a little pulley move near the engine, but that's it.

    Any ideas?
  • pep59pep59 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '02 GLE that recently the power seat won't move the seat forward or back. The other power adjustments work fine. My guess is it's a bad switch??? any ideas?
  • pep59pep59 Member Posts: 2
    Check Engine light came on and I brought it to my mechanic. He used the computer, got an error code and replaced the malfunctioning switch- day later came back on. Everytime he hooks to computer he gets a different error code. Hate to bring to the dealer - theyve screwed me bad in the past and my guy is pretty good. This is the 2nd Maxima that this has happenned. Last one (97) he found a bad wire in the harness. I cant imagine that this would be the case again. Car has only 65K on it. anybody else experience this?
  • airzakairzak Member Posts: 1
    My left headlight has only high beam. Bulb is OK. wiring diaagram shows that low and high beams get ground from daytime light control unit (canadian version). I cannot find this unit. Can somebody help me?
  • yungmaxboi23yungmaxboi23 Member Posts: 1
    Hello I had this same problem with my 03 Maxima after the battery went dead, but it has been about 2 weeks and I try it everyday but it still won"t open for me. So by any chance you know what it was that your mechanic did to get it back working? Also does anyone know where I can get hyper white fog lights for the MAX? Thanx!
  • ammorrossaammorrossa Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I need help and advice. My Maxima would not start suddenly about a week ago so I had it towed to a local mechanic. That mechanic couldn't figue it out so I had it towed to another mechanic, and finally I had it towed to the dealer. :sick:

    After an extensive diagnosis, the Nissan dealer service rep said that the problem is that my main electrical harness had been cut and that my ECM needed to be replaced. Now prior to this current problem, my car was running fine. :)

    So I'm thinking that one of the mechanics previous to the dealer cut the harness because my car probably would not run with the cut harness, right? Anyhow, I need to know my options because my dealer said that the ECM unit is $880 and the harness is $1,800, plus another few senors and with labor, my total cost would be $3,900, which I definately don't have. :(

    What options do I have? Can I buy the ECM and harness somewhere else and have an Electrical mechanic put it in? Is this a difficult job to do? Please help! Any advice would be so appreciated! By the way, for reference, I live in Temple City, CA. Thanks so much for your help!!! ;)
  • sherriegsherrieg Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone had trouble with keeping remote keyless entry fobs programmed. My husband and I have to reprogram them starting every 6 weeks. Now we are having to program them every 3-4 days. Any suggestions?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Altimas and Infiniti G35s are having issues with their Smart Keys related to cell phones. I have no idea if the Maxima is affected (what year? This is an issue with the last MY for Altima and current for G35), but one place folks are talking about this is here: Nissan Altima Smart Keys and Cellphones.
  • sherriegsherrieg Member Posts: 4
    It's a 1996 Maxima SE model. This has been going on since January, 2007...
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Oh, well then it seems unlikely to be related to the current Nissan issues - sorry. Maybe someone here can offer some thoughts.
  • sherriegsherrieg Member Posts: 4
    My 1996 Maxim SE has a rattle in the right front. It only makes this noise when I hit big bumps. Any idea what this might be?
    My husband is wondering if it is the shock.
  • colcolcolcol Member Posts: 1
    about a week ago my anti theft system fuse blew the car would not start at all the lights and stuff worked but nothing when you turned the key we replaced the fuse but still nothing!! it was the anti theft relay under the hood replaced it and it started right up but now it is doing the same thing only this time it is the motor comp. fuse that keeps blowing and shuting down the car any ideas????
  • tteschttesch Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 maxima se 5 speed i battery light has been coming on for like a month now but when you run the rpms above 3000 the light goes off. i hooked a voltmeter up to this to see if the alternator was kicking in but it wasn't. If i hit a back road and give it in 3rd gear get it going like 90 and push the clutch in it would work and finally kick in. Now that its cold out it never turns on there so my car dies. I don't know if i have a bad voltage regulator battery or what but i have tested all the voltages from the alternator to the battery and grounds good and the cables are good. i have also tightened the belt. if it was bad i wouldn't think that it would kick in everyonce in a while. if this keeps up im just going to put a new alternator in it and hope im not wasting money any help on what to do??
  • joek19522joek19522 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 maxima. I disconnected the battery to replace the head light bulbs, I replaced them both. A day later, I went to work and when I turned off the ignition switch, the idiot lights stayed on. Even with the key removed from the switch. After removing the negative cable, then replacing it, the lights went off. But when I turn the switch on again and turn it off, the lights stay on. Anyone have any thoughts?
  • jagman3jagman3 Member Posts: 1
    This morning, the starter wouldn't engage to turn over the engine. I checked ground and connections, but no go. I disconnected the battery for 5-7 minutes and reconnected. Upon reconnection and turning the key, the car immediately started. Does anyone know what car system would keep the starter from engaging, but once reset by disconnecting the battery, would clear?

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • clydellclydell Member Posts: 1
    My fuel guage began to fail intermittantly 3 weeks ago. Two weeks ago the temp guage began to fail intermittantly with the fuel guage. One week ago the blower fan failed and has not worked since. This is happening to my 2000 Maxima. Anybody got any ideas?
  • liaisonliaison Member Posts: 49
    This is for pep59. Did you get your seat to work. I have the same problem with an 02 GLE . The Nissan dealer wanted over $400 to replace the motor.
  • luvlynspecialluvlynspecial Member Posts: 1
    I’ll let everyone know up front that I am not good with cars. I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima; with aver 132,000 miles. One day, I put the key in the ignition and the car went dead. When I got it started, the rear defroster and power locks didn’t work. Furthermore, the doors roll down when the car is off and no key in the ignition and when I leave the key in the ignition and door is open there is no alarm. I had the fuses checked out and they are ok. The mechanic said it is an electrical problem. What kind will it be and how much will it cost to fix. Would it even be worth to fix?
  • kingroadkingroad Member Posts: 1
    Driving lights went out, where should I start my search for trouble fuses or Relays? I checked fuses couldnt find a fuse marked as such.
  • johnny2521johnny2521 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 nissan maxima, car runs great, only two issues, the heater/AC display will be very dim at times, good wack on the side of the dash usually fixes that, and the digital dash only comes on after the car has warmed up, but then will come on the rest of the day. I've replaced all relays next to the fuse block ( Blue and Brown) no chance, I checked and cleaned electrical connections behind the dash..no change. does anyone know where the relay is that controls dash illimunation is? it acts like a relay that is sticking. thanks..Johnny
    You can e-mail me direct at [email protected] :confuse:
  • baxter111baxter111 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Nissan Maxima. My battery kept dying, so I replaced it. I then replaced the alternator, because the battery still kept dying. Now, the radio if coming off and on, the windows are rolling down by themselves, and the clock won't keep the time. I am assuming electrical, but can't afford to continue guessing. Please give me some ideas!!!
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    THERE SEVERAL FUSE BOXES. ONE UNDER WHEEL, SECOND IS ABOVE WASHING FLUID
  • sgarciakssgarciaks Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Maxima is doing the exact same thing with the exact same electrical components doing what your car is doing. One mechanic said it may be one of 4 CPU's in the car (computers that controller electrical) and only Nissan can diagnose it with their software. Have you gotten anywhere with yours?
  • bfournierbfournier Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced my starter it works well but sometimes it wont engage tried the ground but all looked well and clean if i cross the starter manually for a second to give it a jolt it works fine again for awhile then repeats its problem with the no engage thing sounds like you had the same issue and was wondering if you found the sollution?
  • rsavillersaville Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 nissan maxima. Recently both the 12-volt power outlets have went out in the vehicle. all other electical systems are working fine. any suggestions on what the issue may be?
  • mdollazs05mdollazs05 Member Posts: 1
    I am the owner of a 2004 max.I keep having the issue of engine misfire. replace 4 coil packs, Brand new Ngk spark plugs,Right side Catalytic converter, and Ecu.Lets say I replace a coil, the car will run fine for a day and half. The check engine light will start to flash and the car will begin to shake and stutter. The car has 60K on it,I have taken it to the dealer which said was the ecu, and wanted 3k, to fix,and a private shop and they still cant get it right.Does anyone know what might cause this? Im running out of options.This is my fourth max(89,92,95)I love these cars but the 04, is starting me to lose the love.If you have any advise please get back at me [email protected]
  • alibelyalibely Member Posts: 1
    HELLO THERE,, I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM, BUT NO DISPLAY AT ALL IT NEVER COMES ON MY HEADS UP DISPLAY IS NOT WORKING, A/C DISPLAY IS KIND OF DIM AND FLIKERS,, LET ME KNOW IF YOU FIND OUT HOW TO FIX IT.

    THANKS
  • coachkd1coachkd1 Member Posts: 1
    The fuse for the power windows is blowing (also affects seat adjustment power). I have measured a hard ground (0 ohms) on the load side of the fuse block. I disconnected all of the connectors (one at a time) for the seat adjutments and still got the ground.Any hints? How easy/hard is it to access power window motors?
  • mdwwmdww Member Posts: 2
    Did you solve the problem?
    Try cleaning up up the negative battery ground on the engine block.
    Had the same problem, that helped
  • mdwwmdww Member Posts: 2
    Had the same problem. First thing to do before you spend anymore money
    Try cleaning up the battery negative ground on the engine block.
    That solved the problem on my 1995 Max SE
  • morrissuz100morrissuz100 Member Posts: 2
    check recalls. I thought I read something about a rattle in the engine on the 2001 maxima recall list.
  • morrissuz100morrissuz100 Member Posts: 2
    HELP! About a year ago, I started having problems starting my car. It happened about once every three weeks, but when I started the car, I heard a clicking sound and the engine did not start. I would keep trying to start the car and then five or ten minutes later, it would start up without a problem.
    I took it to mechanic #1 and he replaced the battery. The problem continued and then we replaced the alternator. The problem continued for 6 more months and then started happening more frequently.
    Then, my brother took it to the VW dealership where he works and we replaced and oxygen sensor and a nocs sensor (not sure of spelling).
    I got the car back and the problem persisted, so I took it to another mechanic #3 and we replaced the relay to the ignition, the electric parts of the ignition switch, and I put in another alternator.
    It has been 16 months since the problem started and I have put thousands of dollars into this car. The only explanation has been, "there must be a short somewhere." Any suggestions to find the root of the problem.
  • andy100andy100 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem right now: can not start after driving through two stops and while car is hot or weather is hot. I just wonder if you have solved your problem yet. If you have solved the problem, what is the solution? All I do now is wait for 6 hours and then start it or use it.
  • kagzzkagzz Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Maxima GLE model and it wont start. It started off with doing this intermittently and now it just wont bulge. The battery is fairly new and when I turn the switch to start the vehicle, it just clicks (like a small knocking sound). I wanted to know if anyone has experienced the same and if they think its the starter or the ignition switch? I dont want to change the starter and still have the issue persist. Also I recently noticed that there is a clicking sound that comes from the lock and window controls on the drivers sound while the vehicle is turned on. I wonder if this has anything to do with the vehicle not starting? Any help would be appreciated. I love nissan models but this maxima has been giving me issues. I miss my 93 240SX...never had any issues with it at all even at its old age.
  • dgr008dgr008 Member Posts: 6
    I would suggest that you double check the connections at the battery post. You may have a loose connection or deposits on the posts or on the inside of the of the cables.
    Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it isn't defective. I once had new batteries fail in a row. You may have a "vampire" drain on the door lock actuator or the window motor that is drawing down current on the battery after the car is turned off.
  • jwauthiejwauthie Member Posts: 1
    The past two days my car has been acting as if the "unlock" button is being held down. It seems to be at random intervals, but today it has gotten terrible! It will randomly make a clicking noise, flash the lights, unlock and the front windows go down! Tonight it started doing it when I'd take the keys out of the ignition! I finally got them to stay up (or so I thought), but I came out from practice and found my windows all the way down.

    Is this just a fuse issue?
  • willi49willi49 Member Posts: 1
    2000 Nissan Maxima: Car was running. Pulled into Sears and asked them to check battery. Since my battery was only 1 year old, they replaced the battery with a new one. When the technician tried to crank the car, it would not start. Everytime the switch is turned on, the 40 amp ignition fuse will blow. The switch never gets to the crank position. URGENT!! Please help.. WILL
  • imd12c4funnimd12c4funn Member Posts: 1
    I get a code 51
    Replaced injectors
    When warm, right as closed loop, sets code.
    Tach will fluctuate, work normal, go dead intermittently.
    Data shows fuel pump circuit fault and Air Flow Sensor fault intermittently.
    When (rich/lean) Compensation goes lean, engine light illuminates, when it goes rich, light goes off.
    When tach is dead, no engine light at all.
    Always code 51.

    I cleaned Air Flow Sensor, all grounds and batt. terminals, still get open injector fault code.
    Could be distributor or cap, plugs, wires, coil, other if just misfire, but
    with fuel pump losing voltage it could lose pressure to 6th injector, no?
    The tach ...I think is somewhere in intermittent open, yes?

    I am going to test conductivity from ECM harness plug to fuel pump et al, and maybe ohm test wires, plugs and whatever component I can if I find schematic.

    Could it be something in the loom by right strut mount?
    Anyone have this problem? Is it ECM? or harness short? or some combo deal to throw more parts at?
    Thanks for any ideas...
  • shoptalkshoptalk Member Posts: 1
    It appears there are several question about Maxima's having starting problems. Other than checking terminal grounds I cannot find any solutions. My 2000 Maxima problem started 4 weeks ago. It would periodically crank over but not start. It was suggested the fuel pump. I would turn the ignition to on for a few seconds, could hear the pump run, turn to start and no problem, it would start. After about a week it would not crank over at all. At times it will jump start, other times it will not. At times you can jump the starter, other times you can not. Letting it sit several hours would allow it to start again. Possible causes, fuel pump, crank sensor, ignition switch, starter, a safety lock out? Every time the mechanic has it for a few days, it always starts. He has nothing to investigate. Please help?
  • jcioffi852jcioffi852 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My stepson has the 1996 Nissan Maxima from .... Every major artery has been changed in order to get the car crank and turn over. All sensors replaced, fuel pump, alternator, starter, coils, plugs...you name it. We just changed the ECM Computer...The car ran great for four hours then suddenly decided not to start. We spoke to the mechanic and he says that he thinks the plugs are fouled with fuel that is bypass a faulty fuel injector, After $1200 I am out of money and ideas. Please help.

    [email protected]
  • amazyunamazyun Member Posts: 2
    My nissan maxima act like i am holding the unlock all the time. as soon as I take my key out of the ignition, the front windows roll down by themself. sometime I will have just enough time to get out the car and lock it. But it will take few minutes before the car unlock itself and roll the windows down.
    Does anybody experiance this problem before? if so, what is it?
  • amazyunamazyun Member Posts: 2
    Have you ever got the solution to your problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Sounds a bit like the diagnostic approach is chaotic and that you are throwing parts at the car. I understand the frustration, certainly, but it seems like it's time to step back and get more methodical.

    So if the car cranks but doesn't start, first step is to see what isn't happening---either:

    a no spark
    b. no fuel
    c. no compression

    So you get a spark tester and start there. If there is spark, then you get a NOID light to test for injector pulse, and a fuel pressure gauge to check for fuel pressure in the fuel rail. If there is spark, and fuel, then you do a compression test.
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