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Chrysler Sebring Climate Control Problems

ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
edited March 2014 in Chrysler
Ask questions and talk about Chrysler Sebring's heating and air conditioning systems.


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  • Hello. My name is Jason and I own a 2001 Sebring Sedan, And about a week ago the fan speed selector stopped working unless on high, Don't get me wrong I am thankful that I have A/C, As the summer days can be very hot in Florida, but none of the lower numbers work, Although it gets very cold very fast, witch is good, But it's either High or off, and if anyone knows a way to fix this with out having to spend an arm and a leg, And does this year model have an A/C filter? If so where would I find it? any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks,
    :) Jason :(
  • I had a 2001 Sebring sedan which developed this exact problem. Turns out that the fan switch resistors had burned out. The dealer fixed it for me for $60. I found out later that the parts only cost about $12, and, I easily could have fixed it myself.

  • ds1ds1 Posts: 1
    Boy am I glad I found this site! I am having the exact same problems with my 2002 Sebring LXI. Took it to my dealer yesterday and they immediately said "oh the power supply is out on the fan; will cost about $157 to fix it". Didn't let them do it (am po'd because this is a lease car and my warranty just ran out last month AND I've had my car into the dealer last year for the same problem!) I was going to check the fuses first, if that doesn't work, I will definitely try the fan switch resistors next.

    Thanks for the info!!!

  • What is a Fan Switch Resistor and how do I buy one?
  • What is a Fan Switch Resistor and how do I buy one?
  • The fan switch resistor is a little circuit board with some resistors on it. The resistors give you the various fan speeds below full speed. Its available from your Chrysler dealer's parts department. I didn't change mine myself, but, have been told that it plugs into the back of the heater controls. Supposedly you can access it through the glove compartment. Probably have to take the insides out of the glove box to gain access, but, I'm not sure.

  • Blower Motor Resistor Switch Mopar part number 1-04885844AA cost $19.31, installed it myself in 45 minutes.
  • The fan blower on my '99 Sebring convt.has just now started to work only on HI speed. Would someone please explain to me where the resistor is located and how to get to it (if it is hidden behind panels, etc.).
    Thank you very much,
  • The fan blower on my '99 Sebring convt.has just now started to work only on HI speed. I have seen posts about the resistor needing to be replaced and I have the part #. Would someone please explain to me where the resistor is located and how to get to it (if it is hidden behind panels, etc.).
  • I have a 2003 Sebring sedan and am having the same issue. In your findings, is the resistor the definite problem, and is it something relatively easy for a mechanic (my dad) to fix or should it be taken to the dealer? Tawnya
  • Hi Rick, my wife just informed me she has the same problem, I checked fuses, but that car doesn't seem to have a separate high fan motor fuse. I'd appreciate any info on the resistor, where it's located, dealer part, if that corrected the problem? Thanks. Mark
  • After the engine has heated up and no mater what setting I put the controls on, I get no heat. The tempurature control is set to the max in the red area. The fan blows on all speeds. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
  • The resistor is located under the glove box. There is a plastic housing held in with two plastic fasteners, pry them out and pull it forward, it will slide out on the right when facing. There are two wire harnesses going into the resistor, pull them out, will have to pry a bit, then unscrew the two screws, the resistor will drop right out. Part # 04885844 I believe. Hardest part is laying on the floor board upside down, but it's not too bad.
  • dab777dab777 Posts: 2
    After diagnosis, I determined that the Blower Motor Resistor on my '02 Sebring Convertible was inop. The new resistor looked not at all like the old one. I was told that the old one had lots of problems and this would work. The only hitch to the replacement is the fact that you have to use a small hacksaw to make the mounting hole wider to accomodate the new part. It works fine now.
  • We have a 2000 that is experiencing the same thing. I replaced the resistor and still didn't work. Then I replaced the control head in the dash ($160) and still didn't work. I was wondering if you might have the part number of the new resistor? Appreciate any help that you can offer.
  • karyl2karyl2 Posts: 2
    This is a late comment to your post in December. I just had the resistor replaced at a cost of $135.00. I thought this was really an overcharge but I needed to get it fixed and they had already ordered the part (also a different part number than you posted.) Do you have any idea of the cost?

    Also both head light bulbs replaced at a cost of $70.90. All of this included labor.

    I have had trouble with the tires, wheels, electrical system, transmission shifts hard, and now lights and resistor. Also it still takes about 45 minutes for the heater to blow warm air even after the new resistor!

    $31,000 for this??? :cry:
  • varobvarob Posts: 15
    You've probably considered this already, but whenever I've had no heat but had a functioning blower, the problem has been the engine coolant thermostat.
  • My rear defroster takes a VERY long time to clear the window. I discovered that one of the 2 wired metal contacts is no longer touching the glass. (There's one on the left and one on the right of the window) If I solder it would the defroster work properly again? and most importantly, Is there anything I could damage by soldering it? If I can't solder, do you have any other suggestions?

    The car is a '96 Sebring convertible by the way
  • This problem came on rather suddenly. All was fine one minute, but then suddenly the check engine light came on and the heater began blowing cool air. The light stayed on through several engine startings, but, last time I looked it was off. But the heater is still not heating. This is a 2001 Sebring Conv Limited (2.7 L) with 56K miles...

    The coolant level and engine temperatures are okay. I haven't tried looking up the codes (since I will have to wait for the light to come on again). Anyone have some ideas as to what might cause a problem like this to come on suddenly? Thermostat? Bad heater core? Some kind of sensor? Thanks.
  • Just an FYI..Advance Auto or Autozone will read codes for free while the light is on. Only takes a few minutes.

    If the temperature gauge is still in the middle and you haven't put pure anitifreeze in it lately, I would rule out the aintifreeze and thermostat.

    It may be the dash controler itself, no longer adjusting the hot and cold.
  • I think I am narrowing it down to the obvious: low coolant level after all. On that car, the only radiator filler cap is the one on the plastic reservoir. And apparently it has to be completely topped off for the heater to heat.

    For some reason, the level seems to be dropping ever so slightly--maybe a cup or two a day. Not much, but just enough to affect the heater. Now I need to figure out where it's going. I haven't noticed any obvious leaks.

    Thanks for the advice. By the way, you mentioned "pure antifreeze". I have always been diligent about keeping to a 50/50 mix. But I never have heard anything on how important that is or why. For the benefit of those who are as ignorant as I am, what would happen if the concentration was too rich? Gummed up thermostat or what? Just curious.
  • My '97 (2.5L) has a radiator cap to the right of the front spark plugs about a 10 inches from the radiator, not exactly where you would look. Your system does have a steel pressure cap somewhere. You need to find it and change it. Fill the system from there. Then check/replace the rubber line going between the reservior and the steel filler cap. If there is no leak in the system, the fluid loss is probably coming from the cap.

    Antifreeze has about a 25% lower heat capacity than pure water. That’s one reason why a cooling system should never be filled with straight undiluted antifreeze - it increases the risk of overheating during hot weather. Because it holds less heat, during colder weather(February) it makes air coming out the heater feel cool.
  • holt4holt4 Posts: 1
    You probably had a response already but the same thing happened to my Sebring. It was the coolant sensor. If you look under the hood about midway to the left you will see a black part that sits on top with a couple of hoses attached and a gold colored metal piece which is the actual sensor. It is a dealership only part and the whole part had to be replaced. It was about $75.00 I think.
    But very easy to replace. Do you have any advice on a leaky transmission? I have had the gasket replaced 4 times and it is leaking again. Any similiar problems? This car has had so many problems I am at my wits end with it.

  • captain5captain5 Posts: 1
    Did you find the answer to your heater problem. My wifes Sebring is doing the same thing and the dealer says they cannot find a problem with it. I would like any info you have.

    Thanks, Brad
  • rosierayrosieray Posts: 1
    this sounds weird I know, but we had the same problem,
    we were going to take it to the dealer to be fixed (they thought it was the blend door), so we empty out the glove compartment and the heater came on and works perfect
  • sebring5sebring5 Posts: 4
    I have a 2000. Last year the right contact came away from the frit. I went to the dealer, several auto glass outfits and one collision shop. The all said the entire back window has to be removed and replaced by sewing a new one in. The contacts cannot be bonded or soldered. The cost is over $1000. Screw that, I can live without the rear defroster and I live in a northern state.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Posts: 489
    Radio Shack used to sell a substance that I used to repair a printed circuit on a circuit board. Can't remember if it was a tiny strip or something I painted on -it was 10 years ago. You might check with them and see what is available. I'm sure you can fix it yourself. You could also search on the internet and see what you can find to repair a printed circuit. Your defroster wires are at least bigger than what I was working with.
  • jlsridejlsride Posts: 2
    I have a '98 conv and also lost one side of the defroster contacts. I had it soldered at the dealers' for $65 (boyfriend wouldn't do it in case he cracked it) anyway it worked great all winter, and is still attached.
  • matune1matune1 Posts: 3
    Hope you haven't paid someone $1,000 to repair/replace that contact yet. We had the same problem and the Chrysler dealer fixed it at no charge. I think they glued it back on with an epoxy glue, and it's been working just fine for about 6 months now.
  • tbone10tbone10 Posts: 1
    My dealer was looking into my air conditioning system and said that I need a new control unit. Sometimes the A/C works and sometimes it just blows hot air. $300 for the control unit---I was able to find one at a salvage yard for about $50. It is easy to get at but I want to make sure not to snap off any of the plastic pegs on the 2 plug ins. They did not appear to unplug very easily. Any tricks that I should be aware of? Is it wise to go with the salvage part or should I bite the bullet and go back to the dealer? Is this fix more difficult than it appears? Thanks.
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