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Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems



  • lgoodwinlgoodwin Posts: 4
    I have checked all fuses at the JB, the PDC under hood and replaced dash light switch. I pulled what I thought was the CTM and took to 2 parts stores. Cross check on part number showed as an ABS module. It was in the right place, behind passenger kick panel, under dash, with right dimensions (approx 5 X 6), with one 14 pin connector on the top. The module is full of electronic parts and pieces. Picture at stores looked the same as the module (approx $100.00). Was the only module I could find or see on either side of the dash. Any ideas on the possible disconnect in the description/identification between the CTM and an ABS module? Or is this the right part being called a different name?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, I'm pretty sure that an ABS module is going to be a heck of a lot more than $100.

    Mistakes in the parts list at aftermarket stores are real common. I've gotten the wrong transmission filter for my daughter's Hyundai Accent, and the wrong upper radiator hose and PCV valve for my friends '98 Chrysler Concorde in the last two weeks alone. An acquaintance is overhauling the engine on a 2001 Grand Am and told me he got the wrong intake manifold gasket set and incorrect timing chain from AutoZone.

  • Hello,

    I have a 93 Dakota 3.9, and my power door locks suddenly quit working. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.
    Also, my rear speakers don't work most of the time. Every once in a while they will work, but the next time the car is turned off and on they don't work for days at a time. I thought it was my radio but when I replaced the radio the problem persisted.
  • The speedo on my 93 dakota is out, however it is not the same problem that some other people have described here.
    My ABS and brake dash lights ARE NOT coming on.
    I recently purchased this truck in this condition, and the previous owner said that the speedo used to work until she had the ignition cylinder replaced, and stopped working since. Any ideas?
  • yokyyoky Posts: 1
    i have a 96 dakota and im having problems with my headlight and time i turn them in the will work for a while then shut off and flash sometimes
    i think its the switch over heating but i replaced it and im still having the same prolem
    ive talked to a few technicians and they said that i probably have a short somewhere (causing the switch to over heat)
    i would just take the truck in and have them fix it but i havent been able to find a job in over a year now so thats not really an option
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Hmmm. In this case I'd suspect a bad connection from the PCM to the instrument panel, or a defective speedometer gauge.

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You may or may not have a short, but I've seen a few headlight switches replaced on that vintage Dakota.

    The headlights utilize a circuit breaker in the fuse panel. The circuit breaker could be defective, or the circuit is drawing too much current.

  • I recently bought a 93 dakota, and the previous owner apparently accidentally pulled the wire that goes to the horn. The horn itself works but obviously without the wire there's no power going to it. (I tested it directly from the battery) Would anyone be able to tell me where this wire comes from so I can try to reconnect it? Or maybe what it looks like (like the wire color)? I found no lose wires around the horn unfortunately. Thanks in advance.
  • Problem solved. Speedo cable came off and was hiding deep behind the instrument cluster.
  • lgoodwinlgoodwin Posts: 4
    Finally went to dealer to check out part number. It was the ABS module I had removed (and ABS module at Advance and Auto Zone both list for around $100.00).
    Reason I couldn't find the CTM is because CTM was not put on the Daks until 1997 (when the body style changed, this is per the dealer parts list).
    So back to the problem, head, tail, dash lights out, ABS, engine check light on, tach working intermittently. But cranks and runs fine. Parts guy stated he'd had 2 Daks with no problem like this. Suggested maybe Ignition switch and or run wiring for ground. Keep in mind NO blown fuses in FB or PDC. Any other ideas on fixing this problem?
  • 2002 Dakota 4x4 lights go on and off when the key is in the on position or when the truck is running. They work fine when the key is off. Has anyone experienced this and what is the solution...
  • has anyone corrected this problem by replacing the central timing module?
  • I have a 98 dodge dakota,3.9L,auto.The reverse lights work but not in reverse.On the dash it is between P and R.sounds like the shift cable needs to be adjusted just not sure
  • apb1952apb1952 Posts: 2
    i have a 1999 Dodge Dakota, previous owner had a electrical harness for towing and it was mangled and hanging so I removed it and now turn signals are flashing fast and no front turn signals at all
  • apb1952apb1952 Posts: 2
    i think you are correct, i think i need a T10 to get the assembly off
  • djorndjorn Posts: 1
    We have the exact problem now and the truck just dies out of nowhere. Did you find out what it was? We're going nuts with this!! The truck runs great and it just stops, and we gt the no bus message in the odometer. If we give it a minute, it starts back up. Any information to help?
  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    I got no response from this in another posting,so I am reposting it here:

    2K Dakota Slut Truck 4.7L Auto 4wd 168K miles I have an unusual blower problem with the heater/AC. It always seems to work when I first start the truck. If I stop after a while and then restart after a short while, the fan will not work at any speed. With the AC on, one can detect that the compressor is working, and cool air will come from the vents at speed. At highway speeds, the fan generally will come on after a while.

    I am unsure as to whether it is the resistor or if the blower motor is going out in light of the blower's starting after getting to highway speeds. Is the AC or ambient air cooling the resistor enough to restart, or is the highway speed and air induction coming through the vents giving the blower motor enough oomph to start again?

    Anyone have any ideas? Jim

    Since the above was posted, the blower has stopped working alltogether. Analyzing the problem, It seems to me as if the problem is not the resistor, but I was looking around the fuse box and found a blower relay which I think might be the problem. I hope to get a response here.

  • davem33davem33 Posts: 2
    My 2001 dakota 4x4 w/4.7 auto & OD gets the CEL, and gives codes 0720 & 0715, but when all is checked, the sensors are all good, so I expect a short in the harness between the TCM and Input/Output sensors. Dodge has now charged me over $800 and cannot seem to "find" the real problem. This failure results in no shifting out of 1st at all when in drive, with OD on or off, but I can limp along in second just fine as long as I don't go over 40 mph. Funny, but there are a series of "speed bumps" on one particular road that I can drive over that somehow temporarily fixes the short and allows the signals to get through and all shifts well for a while. I never know when the short will reappear. HELP!
  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    Hey, Dave, don't hold your breath waiting on a reply here unless you are a member of the "in" clique. I got no response on my query about the blower motor on my slut truck.

    If anyone is interested in the symptoms I encountered, it was the blower motor at fault. It finally started making a noise when it was working. Replaced the motor which required pulling the dash. I also had the heater core replaced because of the mileage. AC evaporator had been replaced previously, so this is the second time for pulling the dash out. If anyone has similiar problems, do all three at once, evaporator, heater core, and blower motor as it is 5 plus hours labor. Doing the motor, heater core, AC charge, and wiper blades was $665. Evaporator done last year was $800 plus, so I think the indie garage gave me a break.

    Good luck on the erratic xmission problem.

  • Did you ever resolve this issue? I have the same problem and had to take the vehicle off the road until fixed.
  • rdownwardrdownward Posts: 1
    If you haven't already found the solution to your problem in the forum postings, here it is. Your problem is the Central Timer & Alarm Module. You will need to replace the module to solve your problem. They are available from any Dodge dealership or I ordered one on-line from at a cost of $174.80 plus shipping. Once you replace the module, you will have to go to a dealership service department and have them re-program your remote key fobs. It requires an OBDII code reader and specific instructions from the service manual to do it. I found a helpful guy at a local dealership here who did it for nothing, but you should expect to pay for 30 minutes labor if you can't find a good samaritan to do it for you. The module is located behind the driver's side kick plate just in front of the driver's door. It has two retainers that hold it in place and can be removed by pulling the bottom toward the back door first and then sliding the top tab out and pulling it the rest of the way out. There are three plugs on the module. Just replace the module and then plug the three plugs into their respective receptacles. It's a fast and easy fix. Hope this helps.
  • jd110jd110 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Dakota, headlights stopped working and I determined it was the headlight switch and replaced it. All worked fine until I turned on the high beams and the new switch immediately burned out. Any Ideas?
  • tufftoystufftoys Posts: 1
    OK I have a 1994 Dak. club cab 4x4 auto 318. I just bought the truck and the ammeter is soooo pointing (-). I checked the alt. (low 13v) and the battery is also ok. And yes I knew it when I bought it. When I bought it it had 1/4 of a tank registered so I filled the tank only 13 gal. hmm. Got back to the house and noticed that the fuel gauge was still on 1/4 tank hmm. I put into 4wd and now the fuel gauge is reading empty. Yes I called the guy I bought it from to no avail. He said he had no idea, he himself just 4 months prior bought the truck and drove it from Delaware to Charleston SC straight to me, joy! I hate electrical problems!

  • Hiya , I have a 99 Dakota Sport. Since I am Having problems with my Instrument panel. My check engine light,ABS and brake lights are always on.My spedomter and millage works fine but the panel is not showing the security light nor the seatbelt light.My turn signals stoped working as well. I ckd the fuse and its fine, as my emergency flasher are working. Can anyone help me determine how i can fix this. I also wanted to say that I am a proud owner of this truck. Has been a great lil guy.
  • lsburrislsburris Posts: 1
    try and describe short as I can! Truck would not crank 2 wks ago, no flashe codes on dash. The last time it ran, was very rough. changed 02 sensor, fixed vacuum lines, truck cranked right up, but loss of power on acceleration. Had an overheating problem, changed thermostat, busted radiator hose, changed hoses. Temp on CatCon front to back over 200 deg's difference. Cut CatCon off completely.., truck ran fine, no more over-heating, good power. Few days later, ran fine for a couple hrs around town, stopping starting.., temp good. Last stop, cranked like it was running on half the cly's, turned off, re-cranked, sounded like 6 of 8 cyl's, eased down road, smoothed out, running great, but bogging down on acceleration. Another couple days, running fine, good temp, good power.., turned off, then would NOT re-crank at all. Just turning over! Had it towed home..., not sure NOW what to ck! Everything we did, seemed to fix the problem... run a while, now doesn't "again"!!! Thanks, Lynn & Michael
  • dd02dd02 Posts: 1
    Whenever I turn on my lights, after they have been on for a period, all of my exterior lights start to rapidly blink on and off. I have checked for burned out bulbs, but that is not the problem. I have an uncle that said that the emergency flasher relay may be going out or is bad. Does the problem or solution sound familiar to anyone?
  • On firewall components like the Dakota's resistor pack, if the component failed, it is likely due to corrosion at the terminals, which are exposed to the elements, being located under the hood. In this case, assume the connector has failed as well as the resistor pack. These are not as easy to find as are the relays but most people just cut out the bad connector and put crimp terminals on the wire ends. (mark where your wires belong before you cut!)
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    I've had the same problem for almost a year now. dash is still torn apart. can't figure it out
  • dougdoug Posts: 7
    same thing with mine
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