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Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems

KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
Here's the discussion to talk about any issue you have with electricity or an electrically-powered component.


  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    My turn signals on my 2000 Dodge Dakota stopped flashing. Bulbs are ok. Both left and right are affected. Sometimes they will flash once, twice, or a few times. They will not continue to flash until turned off.

    I went to the parts department of the dealer to get a flasher. They sold me a 'relay' for $47. Owner's manual does not show a location.

    Anyone have any advice as to the problem. If the 'relay', where can I find it in the truck?

    As yet I cannot locate it in the truck.
  • On my 2001 quad, that relay is underside of the dash to the left of the steering column. If you never pulled the lower steering dash cover to see exactly where that relay is, it's probably best to remove that lower cover attached with the 3 screws. You can then see that ~ 1" wide by about 2" long relay housing. There are 3 relays inside that black box I pulled mine apart the other day with another problem I had to look. Once you know where that relay housing is, you can reach underneath to the right of the support column and feel it without pulling off that lower dash section, and you would need to lift the housing upwards to remove it from the connector socket..My radio and blinkers stopped working along with my heater fan at any speeds. Reseating all the fuses and relays in the engine compartments electrical box corrected my radio and blinkers..unless just a coincidence, but who cares, its all working.
    Good Luck Ger.
  • jwyattjwyatt Posts: 10
    Thanks, Ger, I will see if mine is the same. It seems to be correcting itself as today it worked most of the time normally, but at times would blink only a couple of times before it would shut off. Moving the lever to off and turning it back on would sometimes cause it to work, so I am beginning to suspect the switch in the column. A couple of weeks ago I had a problem with the light dimmer switch shutting off the headlights when switching to dim from bright. That went away after two days. Weird grimlin!

  • Just a general note also. When was last time your battery was replaced? Only noting cuz I had engine idling problems and others had intermittent strange sporatic problems when the battery was 4-6 yrs old..Replaced lately? I swapped and turned around some fuses and also swapped same type relays anywhere I could to also see if intermittent problems could be resolved. Let us know your "Fix". Ger.
  • My 1997 Dakota started turn signal problems about 1999, just after warranty ran out. Dodge mechanic replaced turn signal assembly, then turn signal flasher (relay). Next year I replaced the same relay. About 2003 the same symptoms appeared and the Dodge mechanic replaced the whole fuse panel. It seems ok right now. Good luck on yours. CRUDMUDGE
  • bdret101bdret101 Posts: 1
    how to replace the rear turn signal bulb.
  • jake37jake37 Posts: 2
    Hi- I have a '99 Dakota and I have a blockage in either the tubing or nozzles behind the firewall that I can't clear by blowing into the line from the pump to the firewall or by inserting a pin into the nozzle holes to clean them out. I have tried blowing out the tubing by cutting the short piece of tubing coming from the pump to the firewall and inserting the nozzle of the air compressor into the tubing. It appears that I will have to remove the cowel and disconnect the feed tubes from the nozzles and blow back toward the pump to clear the blockage. Prior postings on this forum indicate that some members of this forum have had the same problem and had to blow the lines out but how is this accomplished?
  • jake37jake37 Posts: 2
    Hi- I was able to finally clear the blockage in the windshield washer tubing by making an adapter to fit the ID of the tube entering through the firewall. I made an adapter out of an unused tapered plastic nozzle with steps to trim that comes with a lot of tubes of sealant and etc. I then used the small piece of the tubing that I originally cut out of the line from the pump to the firewall to use as a seal between the tip of the air gun nozzle and the ID of the plastic adapter.. (The ID of the tubing fit perfectly over the end of the air gun nozzle.) I then inserted the tip of the plastic adapter into the end of the hose that enters the firewall and got a nice tight fit. I then inserted the air gun tip and pressurized the hose to the nozzles and the passengers side nozzle started spitting wiper fluid. After pressurizing the line several times the drivers side nozzle cleared and I was home free. Previously I had a lot of compressed air leakage when I first tried to blow out the lines due to the mismatch between the air gun nozzle and the ID of the tubing. I refilled the fluid reservoir by using a funnel with a fine mesh paint filter and I did find some granular material that probably caused the original blockage. When I add fluid from now on I will strain the fluid and of course I will try the Prestone fluid in place of the cheap stuff I had been using. I am glad I joined the forum as it will be useful to me in the future.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Thanks for posting that solution. Maybe that will help someone else in the same boat.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • rudakorudako Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Dakota and the fuel gauge will just drop to zero and the low fuel alarm will turn on for about 5 seconds and then everything goes back to normal. This happens every ten minutes or so…any ideas?
  • the other day i got into my 1994 dakota and the headlights were working then i shut them off and then went to turn them back on and they didnt turn on only the parking lamps and the taillight lit up and i replaced the head lamp switch and still nothing but i do get headlights when u hold back on the dimmer switch but as soon as u let it go they go out if sumone has ne answer i would be more than glad to liten thanks CoTToNeYeJoE94
  • hi i finally figured out what was wrong it was the headlight switch itself not the dimmer but if anyone has this problem check your switch first. thanks
  • Heater fan was only working on high, and found out that the resistor board was defective. I replaced the board ($15) and it lasted about 1 month. I replaced the part again and it lasted 1 day. I am thinking I may have other electrical problems causing the resistor board to blow. Does anybody have any thoughts as to what may be the problem? I am not experiencing any other electrical problems.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Here are some other items that may cause burnout.

    *)Fan motor drawing too much current.
    *)Blocked airflow. (the resistor is mounted in the airflow to keep it from burning out!!)
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Sorry. I know this is a late reply.

    Inspect the connector and the five wires that connect to the resistor board. Using a strong light, look closely at the terminals as well as the wires from the top of the connector. Are there any signs of corrosion (green residue) or melted plastic? Pay close attention to the two strped wires in pins 1 & 2. Do they looked burned or show signs of the insulation melting?

    If so, the contact resistance is high or the conductivity has been reduced at the terminals and is causing conductor overheating.

    Order Chrysler part 5017124-AA to repair. This kit contains new wires with crimped on terminals and a connector body with a new moisture sealing membrane.

  • We have been experiencing electrical problems with our 1999 Dodge Dakota RT and need some help. First, all of the warning lights lit up on the dash. Mileage indicator read NO BUS. Then, we disconnected the battery and all the warining lights reset. Now all of the interior lights stay lit up when the truck is running and also when the ignition is off. Any ideas on what needs to be replaced or what we need to do? Thanks.
  • kjcdr1kjcdr1 Posts: 26
    for the '01 Dakota Quad cab. The owners manual says the IOD (ignition-off draw) fuse should be pulled if the vehicle will be dormant for 21 days or more. It also says the fuse is located in the fuse block on the left end of the instrument panel--specifically in cavity #12. Further instructions say there is a snap-in retainer for this fuse that allows it to be disconnected without removing it from the fuse block.

    The listing inside the panel cover lists #12 as the Starter fuse and there is no listing for an IOD fuse. I tried pulling #12 fuse and there was no snap-in retainer. If anyone can tell me how to identify the IOD fuse and where it is located, it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you in advance. Ken
  • I replaced some gaskets recently and now I can not remember where the little black box that is connected to the long plug wire is mounted. It is a 95 V-6. Thanks.
  • I had my right headlight assembly replaced and began noticing that all my lights (headlights, running lights, and dash lights) would blink off. They return immediately but it is very disconcerting to have it happen. It can happen up to 10 times in my 40 minute drive to work. I have checked for a pinched wire on the new headlight assembly and have attempted to determine which relay might be at fault. I am stumped; can anyone help?
  • I figured it out.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    There are a number of things that could cause this, including bad connections in various wiring harness connectors.

    A somewhat common problem of intermittently blinking lights for that year Dakota is the Light Switch mounted on the instrument panel.

  • Thanks Dusty.........I suspected it could be the light switch because I couldn't find a relay or any other electrical device that controlled all the lights. I will replace the switch and see what happens.
  • I have a new alternator(the old one was still good).The battery tests good with a load. but the check engine light comes on when the battery gauge goes over 15 amps and almost hits 18. I have a mechanic getting me a used computer from a junk yard. If none is available I can get a reman for under $200. Anyone have this problem? Another dodge mechanic I know and 2 service managers all think its the computer because there is a module in there that controls the voltage.
  • Hi, just bought my teen age son a 2000 Dakota 4x4 SLT a month ago. Left turn signal blinks rapidly almost everytime he uses it to signal. The right turn signal works normally. Checked to make sure turn signal bulbs are working in front an back and they are just fine except for the fact that they also blink rapidly like the interior blinker signal does. Anyone else have this problem or have any idea what might be causing it? Thank!!
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    First, on your Dakota the electrical system gauge is calibrated in volts, not amperes. So the "15" and "18" you referred to is indicated voltage.

    Eighteen volt output is about the max for a regulated system. The check engine indicator lamp is illuminating because the Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) electronics in the PCM is seeing an abnormal charging rate.

    The normal maximum charging rate varies according to temperature of the battery, from about 12.6 volts at 100 degrees F, to 16.0 volts at 0 degrees F.

    The fact that the alternator is charging at 18 volts indicates that the battery is taking an excessive amount of charge current. It could be caused by a battery that is not holding a charge or is starting to develop a low internal resistance.

    Electronic Voltage Regulator failures in the PCM have been amazingly rare in Chrysler vehicles in my experience. I'd more believe you have a wiring problem or a flaky alternator at the moment.

    How old is this battery and have you just started to have this problem since its turned quite cold? (I'm assuming you are living in a North American winter climate area.) I've seen batteries play tricks on good auto technicians and I have experienced a similar scenario myself on a '93 Nissan Sentra. The battery could be the problem here.

    My recommendation is to install a new or known good battery from another vehicle and see if the charging situation remains the same. If it does then you probably have a wiring problem (to the alternator), a bad alternator, and lastly, a bad PCM.

    Good luck,
  • I think I found the answer. Its the alternator that my mechanic bought from advance auto in harisburg pa. I had another shop test it and it was over 16 .it fluctuated from 13 to over 16. I could not convince my mechanic that bought it to replace it. He was afraid he would pay if advance said it was good. So I took it to advance it was charging at 16.34. That made the check engine light come on. It was the voltage regulator. It was a new alternator. Momroe was no help because although they installed the original reman alt(at a high cost) they were mad I got a new one at less than the cost of a reman. So no more monroe. They mark up 100% of all parts. Now I have to get my mech to install the 2nd new one Monday whivch he said he would. Thanks for answering. Advance is notorious for bad mechanis said he had to buy 4 to get 1 good one.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have mentiond this in the past.... the reason that the alternators from "Adavance Auto" have a lifetime warantee is because they are CHEEEPPP. The roumer is that their rebuilt units are assembled by trained monkeys on mars and there is no quality control nor testing of the units.

    Kidding aside, The cheep rebuilding process allows the prices to be VERY low and attractive. But BEWARE! -- you are the tester of the alternator. If it fails, you have to remove it and take it back so you can have the privlidge to get another untested alternator.

    For me, the labor to replace an alternator several times just to find a good one is FAR more expensive than just installing a KNOWN GOOD alternator once.
  • i agree. i have a new one on order that ill get monday. the dealer put it in so i can get the labor paid. you see the monroe alternator only lasted two years and its out of warrenty. so i was faced with getting one at their inflated 100% mark up price. so i figured that id try advance. hope thid works. It was monroe who wanted to sell me one when i originally saw the check engine light on. Then when I got the new one, and it acted up,they said it could be the computer or a wiring problem They didn't mention it could be a bad voltage regulator. So I went to advance and they said it was a voltage regulator. But you are correct...get quality and put it in your car. Too make matters worse today, my new hyundai was hit by a ford explorer 1984. Only thing was there was no driver in the car. He left the engine running and went into a store in a shopping center. He had it in drive. It came at me . I could stop quick enough to throw it in reverse. got hit.
  • I recently purchased a dakota for my wife and the factory radio did not work properly. It would turn on and the volume would turn up or down with sound coming out of the speakers. But nothing else would happen. I couldn't change the station. So I went to walmart bout a Pioneer 6700 cd player with all the right adaptors. But after I installed it, no sound comes out of the speakers but the head unit works. I first thought it was the radio so i returned it but the new does the same thing. If anyone has any suggestions please reply. Thank You. Randall Wagler
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