Jeep Wrangler Stereo, CB, iPod, CD, AUX, NAV
roachscpgc
Member Posts: 2
I have a 2004 Wrangler X with a blown sub in the center console. I can not find a replacement besides Mopar who wants $300. It is a 6 1/2" dual voice coil speaker. Please help!
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Why stay stock when you can get a better speaker from an audio shop?
-Paul
Travis
VERY stout and VERY secure. You can mount decent speakers under the factory grills too so they don't really show.
-Paul
please respond asap
thanks joe
I'm not sure about power to a stock amp, as I have a dedicated Alpine to my Kicker sub, but I don't think the sub would be a problem for it.
As for fitment, it fit fine, even with an MDF ring spacer between the subwoofer mount and the Tuffy itself. Has plenty of room to go in and out.
-Paul
For those of you who think a CB is an outmoded communication device I ask you have you ever been stopped dead still on I-95 and it is not rush hour. All I do to find out what and where the hold up is located is turn on my CB. I also get alternate routes as well as real time traffic conditions on them with the flip of a switch.
-Paul
I hope I can explain this so people can understand it. There are two wires coming from the back of the head that, when plugged into the REM, remote turn on spot on the amp, will allow the amp to actually turn on. There's a yellow one, and a green one.
BUT (and there are two of these), they ONLY turn on the amp when I have a spare bit of wire from the power wiring touching against them. Otherwise, none of the wires from the back of the head turn the amp on. This wouldn't be so bad, except for the fact that the amp doesn't shut off when I shut the car off, which is a problem because it kills my battery. That makes no sense to me.
The other BUT is that when the green one is hooked up in this way, it makes the smaller speakers cut out when the subs get a nice loud hit.
Can anybody help me figure out which is really the correct wire, or any way that I can make the damn thing turn on and off with the car? Can I wire it into the ignition or something????
But as far as power to the amp. Check the instructions on your stereo to see which wire is the amp turn on (remote). Some have mistakenly used the power antenna lead to do it, which will only work when on in RADIO mode, not CD or satellite (if equipped).
-Paul
-Paul
For the fuel gauge, may be an issue with the sending unit, which is located in the tank with the fuel pump. Older TJ's had an issue with this and yours may be one of them.
For the side mirrors, there should be a couple of phillips screws on either side of the mount of the Jeep (look at the bottom of the 'frame' for the mirror). Loosen them all the way, then reinsert them, tightening them down tightly. This should take care of that.
-Paul
Thanks
I installed an aftermarket sub and amp in my '07. Not too difficult however I've since traded the '07 for an '08 with the infinity sound package included.
Sound Bar Wires
Brown
Lt Brown/White
Red - positive for light, but what do I connect it to?
Black - negative for light, but what do I connect it to?
Blue
Blue/White
Car Wires
Yellow
Red
Orange
Gray/black
White/black
Stereo
Blue
Black
Pink
Yellow
Green/black
White/black
Gray/black
Purple/black
Anyone ever done this before?
Thanks,
Pete
The most vulnerable area is around the instrument panel and steering column.
Most common problems related to water ingress are issues with the clockspring, instruments, charging, and cruise control.
Best advice is not to go there in the first place, and at least get a bikini top you can throw up quickly.
Don't people ride their (waterproofed) jeeps in 4 feet of water? I was told there was a way to reroute the air intake to the engine and seal off the engine compartment so you could drive it up to the windshield in water. If true, how do those people waterproof the instrument panel and steering column?
Rarely more than once!
It's virtually impossible to seal the clockspring and instrument panel, though I guess with enough time and money anything can be done.
Snorkles for Jeeps are designed to allow the engine to breathe clean air on dusty roads, as opposed to driving chest deep in water. The Australian made ARB is a good example.
Extensive and time consuming waterproofing will allow you to exceed the recommended fording depth, but driving in water up to the windshield only works well on TV and in the movies.
Snorkels, as Mac said, are for AIR only. You need to also factor in:
- extended breather lines for the differentials
- extended breather lines for the transmission
- extended breather lines for the transfer case
- waterproofing EVERY connection in the vehicle, including the computer control module.
- Find a way to waterproof the alternator
- electric fan. Fans partially submerged have a tendency to shatter when the blades go from air to water.
It is NOT a tough task, but it is VERY tedious as one missed connection or breather hose could lead to long term issues, especially in the electronics.
you COULD go with a marine grade radio which will help with water resistance, but it will not be 100% waterproof. Get some water down into the dash and your stereo will be toast, so you will need to factor in a way to shield the back of the stereo inside the dash... or get a bikini/safari top.
Forget the vinyl flooring. Go with something like Linex or Herculiner for a STRONG material that will also help keep metal from being exposed to water and rusting. Water can get between flooring materials (Carpet, vinyl, mats, etc) and go to work on any areas where paint has worn off.
Protect the clockspring (between steering wheel and column), the dash openings, and key electronic paths in the engine area and you'll be okay for the casual water and occasional water crossings that aren't too deep.
-Paul
-Paul
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
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