Jeep Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems
My Cherokee has 150K, sometimes I need to jiggle the shift lever (3spd Automatic) just right to get it to crank. Do you think it's the neutral safety switch or a linkage adjustment? Anyone else ever experience the same problem? The problems tends to be worse when I do quick trips. Moe ( my cherokee's name) has been over the river and through the woods and around the block a few times. His still strong and I want to keep him Jeeping.
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Here is a link to a switch like the one that I bought:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-OEM-Neutral-Safety-Switch-Jeep-Cherokee-87-96- _W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQhashZitem270069467385QQihZ017QQitemZ270069467- 385QQtcZphoto
If you aren't sure which one you need you can always send him an e-mail. He replied quickly to mine and the transaction was quick and simple.
I have a downloadable zip file with the 'how-to' instructions on my Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website. Look on the On-Site Tech index for that, or on the Downloads page. There are also links to some other sites with fixes for this on my Off-Site Tech index.
You can also go to JeepsUnlimited or NAXJA (just google them up!) and head to the Cherokee Forums for first hand info from people who wrench these great vehicles every day!
HTH
There is also a shifter interlock cable than can get out of adjustment but the reverse lights won't be killed with that.
The AW4 is a 4 speed tranny.
This is how it started. I bought a 99 Jeep and was selling the 93. I had it running so it would be nice and warm for the buyer I had comming over.
Just as the sale was almost complete the Jeep dies out and has never ran again. All I did was leave it idling for about 20 minutes.
Any ideas out there that I may try? The last thing I changed again was the crank sensor and that's not the problem. I was thinking possibly a elec short somewhere.
also wiggle shifter try to start in nutral maybe safty start switch
It wasn't until I had similar problems with my next Cherokee that I learned about the NSS. I bought one on eBay for $140 from jeeppartsking. My mechanic was surprised that I bought it so cheap.
Crown Auto Parts (online seller) also has them at a reasonable price - like the ebay deal mentioned above, which is MUCH cheaper than dealership $$$$$.
I have a couple of links to rebuild articles on my website's "Off-Site Tech" page as well as a downloadable "how to" zip file listed on my Downloads page. (There is a link to my site earlier in this thread.)
Again, hardest part is actual removal of NSS from tranny... takes a couple of flat pry bars to GENTLY (and slightly) wiggle the thing loose and off the shaft. Takes a bit of acrobatics with the pry bar sizes & angles - think I used a large flat blade screwdriver & a flat pry bar that had the 'right' angle to get the thing moving.
Be sure to mark the NSS location so you can easily reinstall it without too much fuss.
There is also a brake safety interlock that can, but rarely, goes bad.
Tons of other possibilites but if you just changed the crank sensor we'll assume that's ok for now...
My mechanic tried starting it up on neural but no luck.
BTW: When I instered my key and none of my gauges will move.
I have 145,000 miles on it.
I have Cherokee jeep sport CDR 2003 with starting problem, it’s not possible to start the engine even, i try cranking attempts over 5 minutes with no result ( it’s not battery or starter problem the engine turn well ).
But the engine run if i try to start with bushing the car (with 3 gearbox), it’s run will with good acceleration and i can go for many miles with no problems,but it did not run again if i stop the engine ,I changed fuel filter and recycle fuel cycle with no result , the car did not show any error message, any one here will have any idea where is the problem
Have ya'll checked your Crankshaft Position Sensor, located on the bellhousing just behind the driver's side of the head?
LINK Procedure for checking Crank position sensor. LINK (Page is focused on RENIX / non-HO engines but CPS test is the same for HO or RENIX motors.)
After that - check the CAMshaft position sensor, located in the distributor. You can LIKELY disregard this in the case of the above post where the distributor was swapped. (Unless the distributor was dropped into the motor out of time w/ the engine.)
CAMshaft position sensor diagnostics.
HELP! ANY advice appreciated!
The vehicle starts after a lengthy crank time - sometimes idles very fast - sometimes normal. Once in gear and driving, the vehicle shifts from a lower gear to a higher gear, without any reason, then when coming to a stop the engine stalls, will turn over and start but again after a lengthy crank time.
I've been told that the computer needs to be replaced as the engine is not advancing properly - to take care of the crank, idle and stalling issues – (I cannot find a 1990 computer for this car – any ideas). But this shifting problem is very troublesome.
Any ideas on or experience with either of these problems and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
All are common issues & you may have a combo of them.
Throttle Position Sensor, located on throttle body. Sends signal to ECU (computer) to control fuel injection, some tranny input. Relatively easy to replace and adjust but requires a $5 digital volt meter from Harbor Freight, etc to set the voltages correctly. (This is likely causing the wierd shifting issue.) These things go whacky too if the ground connection / connector is oxidized. Running a ground jumper wire helps that immensely. (As well as checking your engine's ground strap from rear,driver side of head to firewall)
Tranny kickdown cable, goes from throttle body to transmission & has an easy to do adjustment (no tools required) but I'd have to dig up my FSM (factory service manual) to give ya the details. I'll post a 'how to' article on my Jeep website as this is a fairly common question.
Idle Air Controller, located in throttle body regulates idle speed. Easy to remove, clean w/ carb cleaner & replace.
Vacuum leaks are EASY to check for: With the engine running 'rough' (when it's misbehaving) you can use a windex style bottle filled with water to squirt along the intake / exhaust manifold area where it bolts to the head. It is a fairly common occurance for the manifold bolts studs to loosen up over time. Do NOT overtighten these! The studs (front most & rear most) are especially prone to snapping off! Torque sequence is posted on my site.
Rather than post all the tiny details here - check out this page at my website for the throttle body & idle speed controller info.
Another Freakin' Jeep Cherokee Website - go to "On Site Tech" then "Engines" then "RENIX Sensors Diagnostics"
HTH
Called RAC and after checking everything thoroughly couldn't find the problem. His reprt said 'No initial fuel delivery, starts on easy-start. Fuel pump drawing 4a (ok).
So the car will start with carb cleaner sprayed down hose but will not restart when engine turned off.
Any ideas anyone???
Neutral safety switch - moving gear selector is a clue for this one. Intermittent reverse light function is another possible (& rather typical) symptom. Switch can be removed and cleaned rather than replaced. Crown Automotive (online jeep parts seller) has them for about $110... which is about 1/2 stealership cost.) You can google for a 'how to' rebuild article or hit my website http://www.lunghd.com/ & look in the On Site or Off Site Tech indexes. Also a zip file download on my downloads page.
Brake safety interlock - press brake pedal to allow engine to start. This one should have come standard on your XJ but was installed as a recall item on my older XJ. If switch goes bad - may not allow engine to start when brake pedal is depressed.
Column ignition switch (not the key switch... but the electrical switch located on lower half, upper side of steering column.) Another "how to" download on my site. Switch is about $20 at NAPA auto parts.
My 99 Cherokee has been off and on. It will usually start on the first try, but when I get on the road it will die on me while I am driving. Most of the time I can put it in neutral and start it back up again while driving. Recently it has not been starting up as easily and I have to pull off to the side of the road for a while. when it starts, it starts like nothing is wrong. I took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong.
Today, it didn't start back up and I had to have it towed. It sounds like from what i have read is that this could be the computer problem.
:confuse: I don't know much about cars, but is this something that can be fixed easily myself. If not what kind of shop do you take it to for this kind of work?
What size engine?
Assuming a 4.0L inline six cylinder in an XJ:
Suspect #1: Check your engine ground strap at rear of head. It is a braided metal strap that runs from the motor to a ground point on the upper driver side engine firewall. If it's frayed / broken it can cause all kinds of intermittant wierdness (stalling/stumbling/electrical issues). You can replace those with a generic battery cable from your local auto parts store.
Suspect #2: Try checking the Crankshaft Position Sensor output with a digital volt meter. Crankshaft position sensor is located on bellhousing, just behind head, to driver side and is easily disconnected for testing with the small connector going to it. Removal and replacement is a royal pain in the butt but if you have a good set of tools can readily be done at home.
Procedure is the same for all year 4.0L engines and can be found on my website's "RENIX Sensor's Diagnostics Page". ( http://www.lunghd.com - look in engine category of "On Site Tech") MOST other tests there will not apply to your HO engine as they have different sensors than the older RENIX engines.
If discussing this with a mechanic, be aware that the ChryCo service procedures refer to this as a CKS (CRANK-shaft Position Sensor). It is also commonly referred to as a CPS but the CPS is actuallythe CAM-shaft Position Sensor which is located inside the "distributor" housing of 'most' 4.0L engines.
There are other things that can cause similar issues... these are just the top two that come to mind. HTH
1.ruff start...takes about 3-5 seconds...cold or hot...
2.occationally after start it will rev at 2000rpms...sometimes it will last a second or two and drop to the norm...but sometimes it stays at 2000...if i hit the gas it will creep to 2500 and stay...so i turn off then restart...no problems...
3.occationally when i come to a stop there seems to be a knock or slight jerk...when it does not occur when i go to accelerate same little knock/jerk...
im thinking...fuel pump, air/vacum, old hoses...
other than that i am very happy...would like to know if the problems may be related or if someone may know what the cause is...
any insite would be a life saver...truthfully...
thanks...
This is what has happened so far. It was towed to the shop and they replaced the Idle Air Control which they said was completely blown out. The Jeep worked fine for a day until the battery died. Don't know if these were related, but my battery was pretty old.
Now its back in the shop and they are saying it is the Engine Computer that is not functioning properly. Anyone else had this problem?
Any ideas on what these cost? The shop cannot seem to find one for my jeep without sending off to the repair place.
IAC - usually just needs cleaning - gets carbon / gunk on it & sticks. They do go bad but it's usually just stuck & mucking up the idle speed.
As for the ECU (computer) those can be picked up at salvage yards, online Jeep forums etc. IF I remember correctly... (BIG IF!) from mid 90's & on up the newer XJ's do have a voltage regulator built into the ECU, (CONFIRM THIS!)... If the regulator is fried... no battery charge.
You can check to see if the battery is charging free at any AutoZone / Advance / etc that will do a free battery / charging system check.
HTH
(This is the one I suspect in your case.) Check the ground straps especially from the driver side of the head to the driver side of the firewall.
This page is for an earlier model XJ but AFAIK all the grounds are still run the same in later models. Jeep Cherokee Ground Straps These things cause all kinds of wierdness when they start oxidizing and/or get damaged / disconnected.
Check the electrical ignition switch - lower half, on top side of steering column. There is a downloadable "how to replace" zip file on my site if that's the problem.
Does it do this under any repeatable circumstances? (ie - always same distance from home, left turns, etc.... or just random?)
Located in throttle body, easily removed and cleaned w/ carb cleaner.
What year?