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Villager/Quest Knock Sensor



  • The symptoms your discribing is the exact same thing my van was doing. I have 275,000 kms on it. I have spent thousands from incompentant automotive techs from Canadian Wheel to fixorrepairdaily dealer. I have changed cap/rotor, wires/plugs and throttle body clean and injector flush, new coil, new catalitic convertor before i took it to foundonroaddead dealer who put on a new o2 sensor, finally they said lets do a diagonstic which found a knock sensor fault, 600 dollars later they had to call the f- hotline who told them to check for faulty grounds on ecm which seemed to work for a while. Took it back again and they said it was High Resistance on neg battery cable. Well after changing that it still wasnt right. Had to have it towed to a Nissan dealer (which i should have done in the first place) they said it was the distributor and it was just filth build up on it. They said it may happen again but i may get another year or two out of it. My symptoms were.... started up fine after reaching operating temperatures it started to buck and sputter/misfire with loss of power, rpm gauge would dance. Been one expensive lesson. hope this helps.
  • Your comments here make me feel pretty good that the replacement distributor is going to fix the problem, The van is going to end up being my kids vehicle.. it does have over 100,000 miles on it but form other owners I see that these engines will run until the body rusts out.
    I should be getting the new distributor next week. If this does solve the problem, I will post a very detailed description of all of the steps I took to determine and fix this problem. Hopefully our comments here can save the next person a lot of trouble. I did read another forum that warned me of going to a FORD dealership... Nissan dealership was strongly suggested. If I get away with these repairs only costing me $150 I will be real happy since I see what this could have cost me.
    If this does not fix the problem, you will see may 95 Mercury Villager :lemon: parts for sale....Including a new distributor and ignition module.
    If this solves my problem all I have left is to replace the 2 rear brake lines... and the kid has a real cool 7 passenger family van to call his own.
    I will let you know as soon as I get the new parts installed. Thanks for sharing the infomation
  • E, I finally got the new "Rebuilt" distributor, and that solved all of my problems. I found a company on EBAY that sells this rebuild for $105.... with no core charge.
    I will write up a detailed description of what I did and how I verified the bad distributor, by cooling it with water. I also want to point out that there may be a mistake in the Haynes Manual around the resistance measurement of the ignition module.
    I will get all of my facts straight and post it in a new thread.
    Thanks for participating in this forum.... all of this information led me to a much cheaper fix.
  • My CEL has been on for the past 6 months. Immediately after having the timing belt/water pump replaced the CEL came on. The codes returned were for the knock sensor and O2 sensor. I had the knock sensor and both front and rear O2 sensors replaced; the light came back on. Now the code that comes up is P1148 and an online search tells me this a "Closed Loop", but I can't find any more information than that.

    Any explanation of what this means (and what it is going to set me back) would be greatly appreciated.

  • Pull off your distibutor. And clean off the photo sensor on the distribor and re-install. Then disconnect the battery cables for half an hour and clean them and re-attach. See if this clears your mysterious codes. hope this helps.
  • I have read something from AUTO TAP about this "closed loop". It says that it is a sensor problem. A coolant temp sensor is used when the vehicle first starts up until it gets warm then the 02 sensor (Oxygen) takes over adjusting the fuel/air mixture, this is called a closed loop . Perhaps it may be the coolant temp sensor? hope this helps.
  • I realize this is an old message, but was it dirt debri on your photo eyes on the distributor? I had this very same problem.
  • Any Mercury villager owners pass the 300,000 km landmark ?
  • help please new batt./starter is OK how do u get to the alt.thanks
  • Before I would change out the alternator, Get the van running and check the charge voltage out of the alternator. If it is 13-14 volts, the alternator is good.
    Double check all of the connections at the battery and starter make sure they are clean and tight.
    Don't rule out a faulty new battery, I just helped a friend with a similar problem, he was going to change out the starter.... ended up his new battery, about a week old had a bad cell and would not keep a charge. If you have access to a different battery its worth a try to swap it out.
    If this is going dead over night, check to make sure there are no lights staying on, I had a glove box light that would draw a battery dead in 1 day.....

    If you do have to get to the alternator, I think My 95 was located behind a plastic cover behind the passenger front tire. from underneath.
    You will have to jack it up, put it on Jack stands, maybe remove the passenger tire then take the plastic cover off, From what I remember its not to bad to get to once you get under there.
  • I have a 93 Villager with 384,954 KM on it 239,145 miles it runs and rides very well!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Sweet - did you ever have exhaust manifold bolt issues? My '99 is idling along at 121,000 miles.
  • Cool- my 98 is closing in on 300,000 kms. Runs well but has the usual maintenace issues, ball joints, motor mounts, tie rods , daytime running light issues and so forth.
  • I have a 95 Villager and when it rains......water collects somewhere behind the passenger front floorboard/dash...and you can hear it slosh back and forth when in-town driving.....also..when turning left and stepping on the brakes water will come gushing inside the floor!!! Any help?????
  • ckent724ckent724 Posts: 5
    I have a 1996 Mercury Villager, and I thought I had a knock sensor issue, but now I am not certain. I have three codes present, P0136 Downstream O2 sensor or circuit fault, P0325 Knock sensor and or circuit fault, and P0400 EGR insufficient flow detected. I have pulled the knock sensor sub-harness and have checked volts at the connection. I have 3.28 constant and when I hammer on the intake the volts don't change at all. not even .01. I have checked the EGR by putting my fingers on the diaphram and moving the throttle up over 2000rpm and I cannot for the life of me feel any movement. I pulled the upper vacuum hose on the EGR and checked for any vacuum and I cannot feel a thing. I haven't voyaged down to the O2 but I am wondering if it is possible that my Knock sensor is the issue and has caused my other problems. I have had this light on for a while now and the times I have had it read and cleared (for NYS inspections) that was the only code present. The last time I had it read was about 6 months ago and it was the Knock and EGR codes. Today when I read it I had all three. Any suggestionsthat someone may have would be great!!!! I have the ability to change the Knock sensor myself and I can get it from a Parts store up here for like 115$ but the labor involved is the main reason why I am hesitating. Thanks to anyone that can give me an Idea. Oh I have NO driveability problems whatsoever!!!!!!
  • Before you do that may i suggest checking your distributor. I spent the money changing my knock sensor, as well as 3, thousand dollars for other things too. My 98 vehicle was bucking and sputtering when warm , ford changed my knock sensor and made no differance. I towed it to the nissan dealer, did a diagnostic and took off the distributor and cleaned off the photo sensor on it, works great now and no codes. hope this helps.
  • graham66graham66 Posts: 13
    How does the Van run when cold and then hot..... I had some problems that would only effect the perfomance when the van was up to running temperature.
    I had no codes being set on the computer.. My problem ended up being the distributor. I got a rebuilt one from Ebay, a company out in california for $100. I had replied to other forums that detailed all of the trouble shooting I did in hopes of saving someone else some money...
    Let me know, and I can repost the entire thing.
  • ckent724ckent724 Posts: 5
    The van runs very well, no driveability issues, when its cold or hot. I think I may have found my problem though. I talked to a friend of mine who recently started working at a Lin/Merc dealer and he passed the issue on to some of the guys in the shop and one tech send 90% percent of the time it is the BPT hose. It will in the beginning throw a Knock code due to backpressure in the emission system, Then as the hose corrodes more the Egr code will come on, then after a period of time of running rich it will post the O2 code. He usually doesn't see the O2 code though. Apparantly what happens is that hose goes from the EGR to the EGR BPT (Backpressure Transducer Control) It will begin to leak causing it to run rich, then causing it to detonate, the Knock sensor reads the detonation and flips the CEL. After complete breakdown of the hose the EGR BPT cannot perform and it will cause the EGR to not function. The BPT hose is a small 90 degree 1/4inch vacuum hose (On my 96). It connects on the bottom of the EGR BPT then connects to a 1/4 inch steel line. That steel line maybe 6 inches long then connects the the EGR. I picked up that hose at a parts store in the "HELP" section. Replaced my old hose (Which was rotted out and not even connected to the EGR BPT ) cleared my codes and to date 90 miles later, no CEL! It has also stopped running rich!!! As for the knock sensor, It is measuring 3.00 volts. When I tap on the intake it will jump up to 3.20 or more. I almost think that the knock sensor was at its maximum range that is why I wouldn't see any flucuation previously. I couldn't even see the hose at all until this guy told me where to look. Once I felt around under the EGR BPT i felt that it had corroded off. Thank God!!!!!! Hopefully this is it.... and it only cost me 3$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank You for replying I really appreciate your time and input!!!!!!!!!!
  • graham66graham66 Posts: 13
    Hey this is good information.
    I think it is worth time time to check this hose just as a preventative maintenance.
  • I am posting this in case it could help someone else. We have a '95 Villager with 153K miles. It has been running very well. We had to get it inspected for our (new) state registration. My husband powerwashed under the hood. Yes, he got it very clean, and we passed.
    But the next day, the check engine light started coming on. It only came on when I came to a stop or slowed down (let off the accelerator, downshifting) or, as time progressed, climbed a hill.
    Our first guess was that something was still wet from the washing. Everyone told us to just drive it, that it would dry off with time and use. At first, it seemed as if it was improving. But in a matter of 3 or 4 days, it had progressively gotten worse. It idled evenly (wasn't missing), started up just fine, and shut off fine too. But once I started driving it, all bets were off. At the height of the trouble, once it was in gear, as I drove down the road, it basically would jump forward over and over as I limped down the road. It would shift very badly, if at all. This came across as the tachometer racing upwards when I gave it gas. Then it would jump or slam into the next gear. I could manage by VERY SLOWLY giving it gas, but it still would either not shift at all or balk and then jump forward repeatedly. When my husband was driving behind us as we (FINALLY!) drove it to our mechanic, he said as it shot forward, smoke would come out of the tailpipe. I couldn't get it up over 45 mph without even greater shaking and balking.
    Our mechanic went over every part. We ruled out cap, wires, plugs (no missing), distributor photosensor, EGR, BPT, etc. He ran the codes on it and first got a knock sensor reading. He kept getting that error code. We began to research that sensor malfunction and were not happy with what we found. We knew that since it would be expensive to replace what might not turn out to be the solution, we had to keep looking. This might be the end of our family van. But as it turned out, the knock sensor wasn't malfunctioning, it was screaming that there was another problem.
    One thing our mechanic did was check the computer for shorts. In doing this, he unplugged it. When he hooked it up again, he ran codes again. THIS time, the TPS sensor problem code appeared.
    Exasperated, I contacted Nissan. I needed to know what we were dealing with. A very experienced tech said that the knock sensor itself will not cause the check engine light to come on. He said that all our symptoms could be explained by the malfunction of our TPS sensor, including the weird fact that when the engine was warm and in Park, it would idle low (normal) and then idle higher (like a cold carburetor from the old vehicles we used to own) for no reason. It never did that before all this. Evidently, the TPS allows the engine and transmission to talk with each other and the computer. He very patiently explained everything, and it all made sense.
    When the TPS code first came up, our mechanic unhooked the lead to the TPS and drove it, trying to rule it out (like he had done with the other parts in question). When it STILL didn't run right, he thought it wasn't the answer. But our handy dandy Nissan tech said it was and to replace the entire wiring harness and sensor. We went ahead and had our mechanic put in a new TPS ($45 at parts store) and our mechanic discovered that there are actually TWO leads from that sensor. Since he had only disconnected one, that was why the problem didn't disappear when he thought he had completely disconnected it.
    So now our van actually runs better than it did even before my husband washed the engine (we now know how to do it better).
    Looking back, I can tell that this sensor, which somehow tragically failed when it was washed, wasn't working up to par for at least the past 6 months. It shifts SO smoothly now. It shifted OK before but had an annoying bump as it went from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Now, it's smooth all around. We didn't need to replace the wiring harness, but would if it gives us more trouble down the road. I wonder how many people have their transmission serviced or replaced when they only need a new sensor. Hope this helps.
  • bobh3625bobh3625 Posts: 2
    Have a 95 van with 160 k and when it gets warm it bucks and downshifts into third gear and the engine of course revs up. Had it in and they got it to do it and a knock sensor code came up. He said it would be like 160 for the part and like 5.5 hours to replace....and than he said he could not be sure that is what it is so after reading here I am not sure niether where would be a good place to start could i disconnect these sensor to test them any suggestion at alll HELP
  • graham66graham66 Posts: 13
    Your problem definetly sounds like the Throttle position sensor, I have done a lot of reading about problems on these vans and that seems to be the problem that the TPS solves.
    I think the part is about $45 at most parts stores, and it is only 2 , 8 mm screws that hold it on, make sure you line up the flat part on the shaft, I read where someone else goofed that part up and had to do it a second time.
    There is an idle adjustment before you fully tighten it up,and you may need to back probe the wires with a volt meter, I am having some problem when my van engine compartment gets hot and I may be replacing mine, just because the part is fairly cheap and I guess it can cause many drivability problems if it is gong bad.
    I had a similar problem last year but mine was losing power after warm and the timing was getting all screwed up, that was the distributor. I have read that you can clean the optics, but mine was not dirty. I found a rebuilt on Ebay for
    Right now I have some intermittent problem where my van get warm, and shuts off, When I try and restart the check engine light is on,,,,,,,
    Let it set over night the check engine light is gone.. and the van runs fine again.
    Last night i ran it in the driveway for 2 hours and it did not quit...... I need to do this several more times to see if the problem comes back, this van it not on the road and needs a full brake job, and I am hesitating doing the brakes until I solve this quitting problem. this will be a third a car for my kid to drive, and I have to make sure it does not just shut off while he is driving it....
    If I can 't figure it out in the next couple weeks, I will be junking it........hate to do that because when its running it runs very well.
    Definetly read forum 52 with the header of 1995 Villager Knock Sensor/TPS Sensor
    this describes a very similar problem that you have...... TPS solved it.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Posts: 62
    I agree with Graham. Do not change your knock sensor! That is just a symptom rather than the problem. I spent about a grand changing my sensor, made no differance!! I spend about 2 thousand changing parts trying to fix the same problem your describing. I finally took it to a competant tech at the (Nissan dealer) who found it to be a distributor problem. Do not take your vehicle to a Ford Dealer! they dont or may not understand the problem your experiencing. I agree with graham, change your throttle sensor first,if your still having your problem, pay a good nissan dealer a diagonistic on your engine. It may cost $100, but its cheaper than playing - ( change the sensor game) . I just recently starting to have the similar problem with my van, bought a second hand distributor form the local wreckers and the van runs fine now. hope this helps.
  • bobh3625bobh3625 Posts: 2
    had a mechanic change the TPS Van ran good for one week and than started doing the same engine, downshifting not good today the check engine light came on and stayed on than a while later after shutting van off the light was off so what would be the next step here ty bob
  • graham66graham66 Posts: 13
    One thing you may want to check it to verify all of the Grounds from your battery look good. One other person on this forum have a loose ground connection that was causing some problems ,,,
    See if there is a stored code....

    Now I think it might be time to go to a Nissan Dealer...Maybe go and tell them the very specific problem and see if they have any suggestions. Give them as much deteiled information that you can get.. EX, Van runs good until warm.... ETC
    See if they have a set price on doing the diagnostics....And again, the Knock sensor code is usually a result of something else causing the engine to run bad and to cause it to knock...The component replacement guessing game gets to be frustrating. Sorry the TPS sensor was not the home run, but I think it was the most logical try with the problems you described.

    Right now I have a similar problem with my van, I'm kind of stuck because It is not currently on the road, was going to be a third vehicle for my teenager, and needs brakes. I do not want to put all of the brakes on until I find the problem with the engine. My nearest Nissan dealer is over 30 miles away
    The problem I have is whe the van first runs. it runs great.. if I run it for about 1 hour, it shuts off, and then will not start, runs very rough, like the timing is not good, Check engine light is on...
    After it cools down the check engine light is gone, and it runs fine again.
    Pulled codes I think one was the knock sensor....
    The other was Ignition, problem...... Can't remember the exact code.
    I just purchased a third vehicle and the Van it too good to just junk.... and I will not sell it to someone else knowing it has a problem with running after it is warm....SO right now It just parked until I have the time and patience to go at it again.

    So if you do end up going to the Nissan dealer or figure this out, Please post any solutions.
    I will pick up on trying to solve my problem this week. My next step was to verify all of the grounds were ok. Some of the things I have done....
    Replaced the battery, because the other one went bad..had to jump sart van.
    Not sure if the jump start or new battery has caused something else to fail??
    Right after that got some driveability problems.
    Isolated those problems to a bad distributor,
    Replaced that along with the module in front of the distributor.
    This seemed to have solved all of my problems....Van was still sitting, waiting for the brake job and teen to get liscence.
    Now van tuns very good when it is cold, and still runs good when at operating temp.....ocassionally will shut off after running for several hours....
    When I restart.. it runs rough, and Since it has no brakes on it. my guess is it would buck and sputter if i tried to drive it.
    The problem I have is definely Heat guess is I will eventually find a simple fuseable link, or another simple component that is causing all of this. The problem for me is it goes away once the van starts to cool down....Defintely needs to be hooked to a scanner when it happens.

    Our problems may not be the same, but if you are able to solve it it may help me to isolate a component too.
  • efitzgeraldefitzgerald Posts: 62
    I have a sneaky suspicion that it is your distributor. These distrutors cause a lot of strange symptoms, such as knocksensor codes, ecm concerns, transmissions causes, rpm dancing, . Do yourself a favor and pay a tech at the nissan dealer for a diagnostic, do not go to the ford dealer, as they dont understand the problem, its not a ford engine. If it is your distributor, get a used one from the wreckers as a new one is about 600 bucks plus labour. HOPE THIS HELPS.
  • graham66graham66 Posts: 13
    I got a rebuilt distrubutor from Ebay.... $ 105 warented for 1 year.
    No core charge, I can look for the vendor I think his name is Partsbookie out of california.....
    If I junk my van I will be selling this part.... If you live in upstate NY, You can try the one I have !!!!!!
  • I recently had a similar problem w/ my 2000 villager (lack of power up hills). I had the front CAT replaced. It was $1600 for the job. It seems to have fixed the problem.
  • I have a 1996 villager and it slosh back and forth when I turn. Water came into the passenger floor on a hard brake.
    I removed the black cover right under the wipers. It exposed a well from the engine and the dash board. I could see the dirty rain water in the well. wear a glove and put your hand in the left of the well and clean out the leaves and goop it built up through the years. All you have to do is push it down through a hole in the well for the purpose of draining rain water. Once the hole is cleared, the water in the well will drain. Water went into the passenger side is because it has a opening on top of the well. Why, I don't know. It took about 30 minutes and all you need is a screw driver.
  • dsolterodsoltero Posts: 7
    Anyone have the rod that is attached from your IGNITION CYLINDER KEY LOCK to the IGNITION SWITCH break in half.
    The dealer here in Vegas has to call the Manufactuer for the price & part#
    Anyone know how to install it (I'm thinking thru STEERING WHEEL)
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