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Comments
I would think it shouldn't take Gm that long to get the wiring harness modification and instructions to the dealers.
My dealer has offered to do mine and i've given him all the instructions from Vince etc and he is really planning to do it right. (I have no problem doing it myself as Vince did but my dealer guy has taken a real interest in it now) I know he even appreciated all the information from here because he didn't know anything when i had OnStar get him on line that day.
I'm a design engineer for Fisher Controls Co. I have designed Presurizer Spray Valves for Westinghouse PWR's and been in containment different places around the world. Also designed the 20" and 24" Recirc. flow control valve for GE's BWR's which was what the NY (Nigra Mohawk NineMile Point) deal was about. Yours sound more interesting (:-)
Vince - Mike called late today, arrived at his dad's yesterday i think. Will get together with him and his wife tomorrow MAIDRITE!!!!
Loren 75v
Loren took my dad and me up for a flight. We went from Marshalltown (after we ate Maid-Rites) over to and around Elberon. Took several pictures of my dad's house from the air, through the hazy skies. After we get back I will post some of the pics for all to see.
We rode out to the airport in the air conditioned comfort of Loren's 2500HD LT. Nice grey leather!
Then we had to ride back to dad's house in my little truck.
Thanks Loren we had a good time.
Later,
Mike
I found the campground between Douglas and Casper on the WY state map today.
Also the R&D Relay came today. Took me about 30mins to install as result of your pointers last nite. Thanks to both you and Vince for the reminders of easy it would be to install.
Plus it's nice to know how easy it is to get to the electrical under the fuse box.
75v
oltroll, it sounds pretty isolated there; only one way in and out? You've probably told us but what island is that?
I had to push the truck in second gear to keep 65 mph up steep hills. 65 in second is about 4800 rpms. I got 10 mpg on return trip letting speed drop to 55 before I kicked it down. Is this gas mileage typical?
Two things suprised me. One, tow/haul mode really works. Two, it does not keep the torque converter lock under wide open throttle. I think this generates heat in the transmission. Some hills were 5 miles long and I used WOT all the way. The outside temp was near 100 and A/C was on full blast. I can just imagine what the trans temp was!
I emailed GM and they said this truck does not need a trans cooler and can tow 5000 lbs with no options other than auto trans. Is there a way to keep the trans locked, even under WOT? Is there a trans temp meter that can be installed without much trouble?
In this combination, auto, 4x4 V-6, 3.73, tow haul mode would allow overdrive towing when speed was above 60 mph and would drop out of overdrive when speed was below 55 mph, regardless of load. Held trans in thrid most of the time to avoid shifting. There is a big gap between second and third at WOT. A five speed auto would be nice or possibly 4.10 gears, but they are not avaliable.
This spring I developed a disk problem that wrecked our June trip in the camper to Colorado. After 8 weeks of bed rest I scraped through without surgery and now am almost back to normal. Finally got the camper out last week for a trip to southern Vermont. Canoed the Battenkill River from Arlington to the NY border despite the low water due to drought. This is a premier catch and release trout stream and lovely for paddling and cool swimming. Spent a couple of nights at Emerald Lake State Park in East Dorset, VT. I recommend this park highly. Clean, well run, and scenic. Our site was isolated and quiet. No connections. Battery held up just fine and repair on the blackwater tank is holding!.
First I'd say that your truck did amazingly well if you could maintain 65mph up hills in any gear. My 89 F250 with a 5.0 V8 couldn't do that up any moderately serious freeway hill (like 4%+). What type of camper do you have and do you know how much it weighs?
Your gas mileage is not surprising if you have a full size hard-side camper. As you know, the frontal area wind resistance is killer. Also, pushing the small engine hard drops the mileage down to the same or less than a larger engine would get. I get about the same mileage with my 6.0 Silverado that I did with the 5.0 Ford (~10mpg) even though I'm going faster now.
I agree that tow/haul works well. I always run with it on unless I'm in town where it is a little annoying. I don't think you can do anything about the lock up issue. When more power is needed the trans just wants to raise the RPM and dropping out of lock is the first step. I assume it needs to be out of lock to shift but I don't know for sure, does anyone know if an auto trans can shift while locked?
I very much disagree with the advice GM gave you. An aux transmission cooler is a great idea for your situation. Since you have to run at high RPM to get enough power, the trans is getting hotter than it would with a larger engine. My 2500 has a factory temperature guage and the highest trans temp I've ever seen was when I was holding speed up a hill in 2nd gear. I could see the gauge move as I climbed the hill. I've never seen it change so rapidly under any other condition, and my truck does have a factory aux cooler. Plus it's just good practice to have a cooler when you tow or carry a camper. The fluid temperature is the most important factor in transmission lifetime. You can add a cooler in a few hours for less than $100 which is pretty cheap insurance. You could plumb in an aftermarket gauge at the same time. All it needs is a sending unit in contact with the fluid and a 12V connection.
That sounds like a nice trip. How do you get back to your truck when you canoe down a river?
What was your trans temp climbing the hill in second? Over 280?
I'm not sure I agree with you that pusing a small engine is less efficinet than working a larger engine less. This goes against physics. Volumetric losses are less in the smaller engine. I will explain in detail if you would like.
You may be correct about the engine. With fuel injection and feedback controls it may be just as efficient at WO as normal and really be a function of displacement. I don't think that was true back in the carburetor days.
At 5000 lbs that is one heck of a load. Are you sure it's that heavy, even loaded? That would be way over my 2500's rating, I can't imagine what a 1/2 ton would do with such a load. The biggest Lance only comes in at around 3500 lbs. What suspension mods have you made?
If you told me you were carrying a 5000 camper I'd ask for a picture because that would be a sight to see! Did you happen to see the picture making its way around the web a year ago or so of a grossly overloaded Volkswagen Jetta? It had about 3000 lbs of Home Depot lumber on top and died in the parking lot when the shocks came up through the sheet metal. It was a great picture. I'll try to find it just for fun.
http://ideageek.com/wow/
I can not activate the ABS when towing with about 500 lbs (dead) hitch weight and about 500 lbs load in the truck. The brakes just do not have the reseve capacity even if I use two feet and pull on the wheel! I have had to stop quick a few times in heavy city traffic and it is nerve racking. Is this just my truck?
I'd suspect your trailer brakes first. You can't expect the truck to do all the work, it isn't designed for that much extra load. And remember the 1/2 ton has smaller brakes front and rear with single pistons on the rear. Your load is right about at the Hmmmm decision point between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck in my opinion even though it is below the rated maximum. But I'm a big believer in overkill as a general principal. I've read some tips in Trailer Life on how to test and set trailer brakes but I don't remember any details. I did get the impression that it's a touchy setting.
I've read some posts from guys who swear that 4-wheel ABS when towing is very dangerous. I think they felt that the trailer can cause the ABS to kick in prematurely and cause loss of braking power. Does anyone know why some people feel this way and if it's true?
That said, even with the trailer brakes disconnected, I would suspect I could activated the truck ABS. Unloaded I have no problem activating ABS. I was wondering if I glazed the pads or if this is typical of a loaded half ton.
I do not see why ABS is dangerous when towing. I think it is a life saver. To prevent a jack-knife no wheels can lock. The ABS prevts lockup on the truck and a properly set controller should prevent it on the trailer.
I don't see why ABS is a problem when towing either. I'll look for that towing topic and see if I can find any rational.
The Lance dealer, of course wanting my money, was telling me no prob, your truck can handle this with air bags installed. I calmly indicated to him that was over my GVWR of 9200lbs and that my cargo rating was 2200 and change (which seems low for an HD to me). He told me that the manufactures always lower their carrying capacities as a CYA. In fact my rear axle is rated for 7200lbs, not the 6000 and change listed on the door panel of my truck. Any thoughts??
Went to the Hallmark dealer and they no longer sell hardside campers for shortbeds stating liability issues and the fact that almost everyone they had sold were returned or had to be bought back after suits were brought up from saftey and liability concerns. They were stating they don't recommend ANY hard side camper on a shortbed due to the shorter wheel base. So are there any of you out there with short bed pickups that have hardside slide on campers?? Any problems??
I won't be buying until next years sportsman show about mid March, so that gives me enough time to research and get the right camper and get more opinions.
Thanks,
Bob
My 2500hd (6.0L 5speed) does a little better, and I'm suprized.... maybe I tend to let the speed lug down slightly more before downshifting, as the 6.0L has a fatter HP curve down low....
I think your truck is working just fine.
Bleed your brakes, it helped alot on my '99
Does anyone know if a extra fuel tank can be put on these (GMC 3500) ?? had one on the Dodge and it was great
I know buying new is nice but you should at least look at the used market. You can easily save 25% to 50% on an almost new unit. It's harder to find the model you want of course.
My opinion (take it or leave it) on slide-outs is no thanks. Here's why:
-Makes you climb to get to the dinette.
-You loose the end of the U seating area. It is actually quite a bit smaller space.
-You loose the huge storage cabinet/kid bed above the dinette.
-Additional weight, complexity, cost. Possible source of leaks etc.
-Do they make into a bed with the smaller size?
On the good side, it makes the space feel larger inside and gives some more floor space. This doesn't offset the negatives for me. Now if they made the back of the camper slide out, that has possibilities.
I assume your 2200 cargo rating is from the glove box sticker. If you take the GVWR - curb weight you will find GM leaves a fair amount of buffer for people etc. 3200lbs + cargo is high for a 2500, that camper should go on a 3500. But don't worry about going a little over the max. The drivetrain can obviously handle it and with some suspension additions it would be fine. I don't know about the rear axle story but my first rule of sales applies: "Everything a salesperson says is a lie until proven to be true." A good rule to live by.
Which brakes were smoking, the truck's? That is a pretty extreme situation for a pickup. I'm surprised it would get to that point with only ATVs on the trailer. How heavy is an ATV?
Good point about the used market, never gave that much thought, but for the savings, it just might be worth it to check it out...what's the worst that could happen, I don't like the choices and keep looking, right?? :-)
Oh yeah one other thing, I noticed at the dealers, there are two types of mounting, one that is bolted to the bed, the other mounted to the frame. I would assume the frame mount would be better, but are there any shoulda coulda woulda's out there that either wish they got one over the other??
Thanks,
Bob
Another thing I learned the hard way: Some trailer manufacturers, namely Skyline (Layton, Nomad) will connect the brake wiring from the axle to the trailer harness using 3M Scotch Locs. While these are fine in some applications, they are specifically NOT recommended for exposure to road conditions and should NEVER be used in an electric brake circuit. I punched a Mazda Protoge through an intersection when he decided to slam on his brakes on a green light. I was really ticked that I couldn't avoid the accident as I consider myself to be a very good, defensive driver. I later found that the scotch-locs had been used on the brake wiring at the factory and exposure to water had caused them to corrode and loose continuity. So, I was trying to stop 7000# of travel trailer with a 1/2 ton GMC and no trailer brakes. After I found that, I removed the scotch-locs and soldered the wiring harnesses together.
It sounds like you had a pretty good case for a lawyer with that brake wiring. You'd think a manufacturer would know better.
Frame:
-Don't have much forward/rearward angle. True, but a rubber mat or spray-in liner provides so much friction I doubt it matters.
-They stick out. Bad for off-road or shins. Maybe doesn't look so great.
-It seems to me that the chain would go tight and slack as the bed moves in relation to the frame. Not a big deal I guess as long as a S-hook doesn't come free.
Body:
-Can damage the bed or bend the bumper. True for extreme loads. It happened to me but I had two extenuating circumstances.
-Some don't like drilling any holes in their truck.
-Optional cross stiffner bar in the bed can get in the way. I tore my camper bumpers out on it.
I'm happy with my Happijac (body) mounts. They look pretty clean and don't use chains which I don't care for. In either case, I agree with the comment about the spring loaded turnbuckles from Happijac. They are quite nice. I wish they would add a little dealybob to close the open portion of the S for extra security.
Don't consider using stake pocket brackets. They aren't very strong or stable. They move around in the pocket and flex. I've had them and my camper never fell out but I never felt very secure in case of an accident either.
Loren, you could fly out to Minden - they have a courtesy car at the airport you can take into Pioneer Village, and then you can stay at the motel. Well worth the trip. Plan on two days or one very long day. 2nd day is free if you sign up for it before you leave on the first day.
6856 miles, and the oil minder light is not on yet. 15.1 mpg average for the trip. Most driving was at the speed limit, Cruise Control on, AC on. High was 16.5 mpg (prior tank 16.0, next 15.7) low was 14.0 (California oxygenated gas - first tank of trip). I was very happy with the mileage. My wife got spoiled with the mileage, we got a tank at 14.7 and she's wondering what's wrong! For a 6.0L truck weighing 7450lbs, I was very happy with 15mpg!
From CA we went up into Idaho. Amazing thing was, at the speed limit we were passing more people than were passing us! Didn't happen anywhere else. Through Wyoming, across Nebraska. Stopped in Fremont to visit my brother, his new wife and their new house! Then onto Iowa to see my dad and my other brother. On the return trip we visited the museums in Nebraska with my dad, then he returned to Iowa and we went on.
We wandered north through Gillete Wyo. to tour the coal mines - well worth the visit! Then up through Montana into Canada. Up the Icefields Parkway and across BC. Many, many very nice Provincial Parks. Moose and Elk in the campground outside Jasper (give those guys a w-i-d-e berth). Some very nice parks in Washington and Oregon, and then down Highway 1, the CA coast and home.
Wonder when that oil minder light will come on?
Mike L
But we still got 14mpg going up to Reno.
So, In the campground that night, I looked around and found a loose plug wire, then the engine ran fine, but the SES light wouldn't go out. I checked the gas cap, and it was tight. So, out in Winnemuca we stopped at the dealership, and they looked at it (literally, they were backed up and had a mechanic on jury duty) and said if it is running good don't worry about it. It could take 30-40 restarts for the light to reset itself. We tried 5-6 more time right there to no avail. So we drove off and about 2 miles down the road the light went out.
Other than that the truck ran flawlessly!
Mike L
I imagined the plug wire wasn't properly installed when some (un-named) fool pulled the plugs out to check them. Maybe I should get a new mechanic?
I think we just turned 27K on the truck. I may drive it alot in the summer, but I have other things to drive around day to day.
Mike L
Glad the rest of the trip went fine.
Loren/75v
I can't believe you left out the MaidRite report from your trip notes! You know we were all waiting for that.
Do you want to take a little drive to White Salmon, Washington?
Mike L
We had the one with Loren (no ketchup, but still worth the visit) and 3 other restaurants (with ketchup).
And the glory of Corn Nuggets at the Dysart Drive-in. Rhonda at the Drive-In really likes people, and loves to talk. She even sent us a Christmas card last year. All because we stop in whenever we are in town.
Iowa is just a little different from California! Really nice people and a lot slower pace of life. If it wasn't for the summer heat it would be worth considering. As it is, thank heaven for the great AC in the Silverado.
Mike L
My truck is a 2001 F-350 Lariat long bed single rear wheel 4 X 4 crew cab 7.3 powerstroke desiel. The weight over all with the truck and camper is 10,820 lbs with half a tank of gas and the camper with no liquids. My truck weighs 7,700 lbs and the camper around 3,100 lbs. My rear axle weight is 6,280. If I add more gas (full tank), 10 gal. of water for my camper, and the tounge weight of my water craft trailer i'm up to almost 6,900 lbs on the rear end!!!! And thats not including the stuff i'm gonna haul in the camper.
You see this is all new to me. The sales man said " No problem your truck is fine" when i bought the camper. But the service guy who did the air bags and mounted it said i'd better weigh it also my tires were in no way gonna handle the load. My tires are BF Goodrich AT 285 75 R16's load range D at a load capacity of 3,305 lbs per tire. The highest I can find is 3,415 lbs load range E 265 75 R16's.
Is there anyone who has a truck and camper like mine and is in the same situation or know what the limits are? Am I ok with the tires I have or do you know of any higher rated tires? I can't find any!!! I don't want to be right at my maximum or over what my tires will allow.
Please help me....any suggestions I would very much appreciate because I really want to keep my camper and of course my truck!
Thank You.