but they still have your radar signature from the transponder when squaking VFR code so they know if your their so they can vector IFR trafic clear of any uncontrolled VFR stuff. Thus the F16 intersepts possibility. Most of the country around here is back to normal except when they put up a no fly zones around the nuclear plants etc. Back East still lot of restrictions for all segments of General Aviation which is a little on the over kill side. No GA plane can cause the damage that the fully fueled heavy iron can. Severl aircarrier pilot friends are extremly concerned about the un-scanned bagage they have to haul an no passenger to bagage confirmation. They believe that it's Russian Rulette every time they take off. My UA captain friend made UA baggage operations remove all the luggage from his 737 out of Miame three weeks ago when 4 male connecting passengers from San Palo were on the ground for 2 1/2 hours but could not be found for his connection. UA did not want to remove their baggage but eventually he said get another flite crew or remove the baggage. They removed the baggage finally. Consequently I won't fly any aircarrier if I can possibly avoid it because of this issue. UA crews think its not if but when.
The VT trip was with the HD only. 2700 mi ave 12.09. Gas price was $1.02 to $1.17 for 87oct. That Hd rides so nice and smooth just can't say enough. GM has still not published an SB to fix the Aux Bat. wiring correctly but ofcourse with everones help here we have it corrected by my dealer. Did notice cold air coming from under dash on passenger side I'm going to have to figure out. Anyone knows that fix would be appreciated.
And those gas prices!!!! Don't know the last time we had prices that low in Northern Cal. The prices have dropped dramatically, currently around $1.35 for Shell 87 and as low as $1.25 for Discount Dan's Mystery Fuel. Until 3-4 months ago, it had been above $1.80 for more than 2 years.
Checked with my Inside GM contact on the improperly factory wired Aux. battey TP2 option-- Here is his response ---------
We did release the TP2 for production about 6 weeks ago. From my position, I don't have any idea what was done to correct the problems. I am going to forward your message on to a Brand Quality Engineer that can bring us up to date. Hopefully he'll be able to tell us what we need to do for your truck. Stay Tuned. I did get response from the quality folks. A service bulletin is being written. I have asked them to let me know the number as soon as it has passed all the process audit folks. Then I wrote a note to the Brand Manager and asked him for help in getting the information released ASAP. As soon as I know, you'll know.
Anyone know the law regarding tandom towing in California? I have a 5th wheel trailer and i want to tow my watercraft. Ive seen others doing it but am wondering if it requires a special license.
I am planning the purchase of a new 2002 silverado, 1500 extended cab LT and want to tow a 24 ft Jayco tandem axle travel trailer that has a GVW rating of 6000 lbs and empty weight of 4000 lbs , 500 lb hitch weight and of course a equalizer hitch and torsion bars. does anyone have experience with the 5.3 liter 8 cyl engine in a similar consit. I want something that will pull the mountains in Pa and W.Va.
Would like to hear experiences from anyone who keeps a soft side slide-in on their pickup all year round. Is this viable? Will the camper hold up to the daily grind? I'm looking at it as an alternative to an SUV or conversion van. Not so much use as an actual camper, but as better support vehicle for weekend travel and activities. I'm thinking if you use it 3 weekends out of the month and don't need the bed space for anything why take it off during the weekly commute.
My dad has a 6000# 26' trailer he pulls with a 2000 5.3L 3.42 2wd Silverado. There are some steep hills in eastern Iowa that he pulls with ease. In fact, his 98 5.7L truck lost speed on the same hills, while the new truck will gain speed going up.
I have a Phoenix popup camper that I leave on the truck full time. I'm sure it hurts gas mileage a little, but I don't like loading or unloading the camper either. It doesn't seem like leaving the camper on the truck is any harder on the camper than storing it in backyard. 2 1/2 years and the camper has been off the truck for a total of 2 months.
My camper is all hard sided in the down position, only the collapsible wall is soft, like tent material. It almost sounds like your entire camper is soft sided.
thanks. no, I was refering to the pop ups (brain cramp while typing ) I was just wondering if the day to day vibrations, bumps, knocks, and weather caused any undue wear and tear. Can these pop-ups take it?
Like I said, I don't think carrying the camper on the truck is any harder on it than leaving in the backyard. IMHO, driving with it at least stirs the air, the activity reduces the spiders and other critters that will nest in it. I leave the slider open, so the camper gets heat from the cab. It looks more like wear and tear to the flexible part is caused my putting the camper up and down.
My camper has over 50,000 miles on the truck(s) and still looks good. Some wear of the soft wall, at the corners where it folds. We have a sandwich wall, thin outer, foam insulating center and a thin inner. The outer is cracked on each corner. I can't blame that on having the camper on the truck. Probably cold weather camping, and folding it while it is cold have more to do with it than anything else.
I really like the popup feature. I'm getting 16+ on the highway and have averaged 15+ since I've owned the 3/4 ton truck it is mounted on.
Thanks. Any advice on length. For everyday use I'd prefer a crew cab w/6.5' bed. Since I'd really be using this as a weekend support vehicle I don't think I would miss the extra length (and don't like the look of 8' camper on 6.5 bed.
I didn't think I would miss the extra 1 1/2 feet either when I went from the longbed to shortbed. All I can say to myself now is BIG MISTAKE! What was that old song, "you don't know what you got till it's gone" In my case I went from fitting 6 dog crates stacked to 4 and no extra camping supplies,(like firewood) now I have to throw the extras in the trailer. My wife shows Siberian Huskies and I go for the camping since with that many dogs camping is much easier than hotels. The next new truck I'll be going back to the 8' bed for sure!
Thanks. My requirement is to balance the everyday use with space requirements. When I stand in the bed of the truck and imagine the camper or step into one at a dealer I just get to wondering how much difference the foot and a half length will make for my intended use. I sure hope Santa brings that crystal ball to answer all these things!
I am replacing my stock tires (P265/70-16) and wondered if you had any advice. I have a Northern-Lite truck camper and feel uncomfortable with these standard load (Load Range tires. I have decided to upgrade to an LT tire of the corresponding size (LT245/75-16).
The question I have is deciding between load range C (50 psi max), D (65 psi max) or E (80 psi max). I have a camper that weighs 1,400 lbs. wet on a Toyota Tundra (camper has no toilet/shower). It will be used 1-2 months out of the year.
Are load range E tires overkill and will the stiffer sidewall cause a significantly 'rougher' ride, especially unloaded? Would load range C or D give me the safety edge I'm looking for without compromising ride quality? Any input would be welcome.
I have renge E (stock) on my sierra 2500HD.This truck weighs 5600lb and can carry 3000lb+ .The sidewall is pretty stiff even when underinflated,and they do nothing to controll the severe body-roll Tundras are known for.You'd be more comfortable with range c,and air-bags to controll the sway.
It would be to your advantage to calculate the exact weight of your truck then get the lightest rated tire that can handle the load. Not that an mildly underated tire is likeley to fail but if it does and somone gets hurt the legal ramifications could be severe. Dont sacrifice comfort for safety.
I almost agree with the post by bobsquatch. But, I would add to stick with LT tires. You can get the same load rating in a P series tire, but they are much thinner in the sidewall and tread areas, and are more likely to fail from a rock or pothole.
The LR 'C' tires should be adequate. My fullsize Silverado came with LT245/75-16 LR 'C' tires and they can carry up to 2000 lbs each. Double check the rear axle weight of your truck when it is loaded, but that should be plenty for you.
Thanks, Mike. I'm still scratching my head. I checked my original equipment "P" Standard Load tires and they are rated at 2,403 lbs. each (Load Range 111). The LT tires (245/75/16) I'm looking at are Load Range "C" (Load Range 108) which is only rated to 2,205. I assume I'm getting extra 'plys' and can run these at 50 psi. I just assumed LT tires would have a higher load capacity. The benefit seems to be in the 'toughness' of the tire. That was my biggest concern. Joe
If the brand and size of tire you want comes in a D range then go for it. You should be running with the correct pressure for your load regardless of the max rating so you don't need to put 65psi in just because it's a D tire. I bet there is no ride difference between C and D at the same pressure. It's never a bad idea to have extra safety margin, especially in tires. The C is adequate for your load so I'd select a tire based on tread type, brand, size, etc. and take C or D. Now if you live in a southern state and will be driving with the camper in the hot summer, then I'd go for the D.
The conditions under which you operate should be the deciding factor in tire selection. The lightest duty tire to meet you needs may be good for comfort but if you subject them to severe use go for the extra margin of safety. It is hard to picture desert heat conditions this time of year but if you will ever drive in them get the heaviest tire you can. A sudden blowout with a camper on and possibly towing is not a pleasant prospect.
I am getting ready to add a second battery to my truck. I went back and read some of the older post and saw no mention of anyone using a battery isolator. Everyone seems to use a relay. Is there a reason for this? Seems like the isolator would be more simple and less expensive than the relay method. Thanks
slide in camper model designed for a short box truck in a long box truck? Considering purchasing a Starcraft Pop Up Slide In Model. Seems the short box models are easier to find, as well as less costly :>)
My Truck: 2500HD GMC 2001, 4.10, Vortec 8.1, 5 spd Auto Allison Tranny, 4WD
Will be pulling a 2 horse trailer behind when the camper is on, so I won't consider any camper with a rear overhang.
BTW....I would NEVER put an extention in my receiver to accomodate a longer camper. I've seen some pretty scary looking hookups with this type of setup. Better safe than sorry...
rspetty, rayt2 is right....Go with the 8 foot box I think you'll be happier with the extra length as well.
The wiring is in place for the relay on all the new Silverado's. All you have to do is plug in the relay.
The relay is energized when the ignition is on, and the aux battery then gets charged. When the ignition is off, the main battery is isolated from the aux load. So you can count on your main battery to start your truck even when you have run down the aux system.
Certainly you can put a short bed camper in a longbed truck. Then you can leave the tailgate on, and have some(1 1/2') storage between the camper and the tailgate. Kinda looks dorky though.
But, I think the lost interior space would be more important than the extra storage outside. For just my wife and myself, the 8' floor on our popup camper gets small after some time inside. I don't know what we would do with less interior storage either.
Mike L
The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has been forgotten.
For some reason I can't open your old post of the battery instalation. I found a relay at Camping World that seems very simple to install for $15.00. I forgot to ask how many amps it was rated for so I have to call back to get that info. What kind of battery did you add. It looks like the space won't be tall enough for a marine battery. Did you get the battery-tray/mount from GM?
I mounted an Oddessey battery. It's a small, new tech battery and it fits. It is supposed to have more power than a larger standard battery. I don't know about that, but my camper's needs are very limited, and it works for me.
I used the factory battery tray, and the PN is in Vince's story that follows. When the factory installs and aux battery they remove the fender brace above the battery and fit a battery just like the main battery. With my small battery, I left the brace in place.
Here are Vince's instructions: "* OK, here's my battery story. * Chevy at first said you couldn't get the aux battery when you get California emissions (required here), then after I ordered the truck I learned they removed that restriction. So I ordered most of the parts from the parts department and did it myself. The details apply to a 99/00 Silverado. The parts you need: * 15705102 Support bracket $12.85 356668 Battery clamp $5.70 * 12135194 Relay $42.84 15321214 Cable, pos to relay $29.00 * 15321259 Cable, starter to relay $33.66 15321207 Cable, neg $30.35 * 21021808 Nut, metric, bag/10 $3.60 * You must order the support tray at least. It replaces an existing bracket. The other items can be bought in some form aftermarket but the factory items fit nicely and are well made. I didn't buy the battery but found that I will have to because the available height is very minimum so the low profile side terminal battery is all that will fit. I don't know yet if they make a deep cycle battery in that style but I hope so because it's important to use that type. If desired, they sell a battery insulator jacket like is on the main battery for only a few dollars. The overall concept is that the alternator output is taken from the heavy cable attached to the starter motor, run to a relay, and the other side of the relay then goes to the aux battery AND the camper. This means when the engine is on, the main battery and the aux battery and the camper are all connected together (in parallel) so the alternator can charge everything. Then when the ignition is off the relay opens up and only the aux battery is connected to the camper. If the camper has its own battery (mine does) then the two batteries are connected together so you get double capacity. Of course you can run them down without affecting the main truck battery. Now some useful details I learned. First, disconnect the main battery negative cable! Attach the cable to the starter using one of the new nuts, don't take off the original cable, just add the new one. The stud is long enough. Access the starter stud via the passenger side wheel well. I was able to reach over the top of the tire and get in there with a small rachet. The end of the cable with heat shielding goes here. Find the connector for the relay control hanging near the air conditioner dryer tank. This is near the aux battery location against the firewall. It is a 2 pin connector, if you don't have air cond. then there might be two connectors. The one with the white locking clip is for the air cond., use the other one. Mount the relay on the firewall in a convienent location, you have to drill 2 holes. Don't put it where the battery will hit it or where the studs could touch metal parts. Plug in the little connector and attach the heavy cable to the bottom stud using one of the new nuts. Tie the cable to the frame away from the exhaust manifold. Notice the cable has a fuseable link in the relay end. Get some heavy automotive wire, at least 10 guage. Put a ring lug on one end and connect it to the top relay stud. This wire has to go across the engine bay to the big fuse box on the driver's side. I ran it up over above the engine using clamps to hold it to the firewall. The aux battery positive cable also attaches to the same relay stud. I ordered the trailer towing package and the camper/5th wheel wiring options. These are both the same electrically but the camper wiring just has an extra bundle between the cab and bed with unfinished ends. The following details apply to both the camper and hitch wiring. The camper positive lead is red and comes into the fuse box in one of those big covered bundles. It goes to a hidden stud and is powered via the upper left most fuse (40A) which isn't installed from the factory but they give you loose with the towing option. We don't use this because we don't want main battery power. To get this wire free, you need to lift the entire plastic body off the fuse box. Remove the top, then pull the bottom far side away from the little tabs locking it down. Pull up and you can get a few inches of movement. You may need to unlock the clip between the fuse box and the fender with a screwdriver. The cover will not come off due to a bracket but you can get enough distance to see the red wire on the stud in the far left corner. Remove the wire, pull it out and put the plastic back in place. This is the feed for the camper and needs to connect to the heavy wire coming from the relay. You shouldn't connect them directly because it's a safety hazard. A better way is to connect them through a circuit breaker. At the auto or RV store they sell little 30A breakers for about $3 that have two studs. Connect each wire to a stud and you have a nice junction block and protection against shorts. I mounted the breaker on the plastic fuse box, in the cutout where your fingers go to pull the cover off. This way the connections are covered when the cover is on. Only thing left is the aux battery negative cable. I don't know where it goes because I haven't put a battery in yet. I'm sure there must be a good ground nearby since this is a factory option. Otherwise just connect it to a solid, clean metal ground. For the camper end, I ran the wire bundle into the bed through one of the existing holes in the front corner. Then ran it behind my bedliner and mounted a nice metal connector in the bedliner wall (had to shorten the connector with a hacksaw). I bought the connector at the RV store. It fits almost flush against the bedliner, has 6 pins and a spring loaded door to keep the elements out. The door also locks the mating connector in when inserted. I put in a similar system in my old truck but didn't have any factory provisions to work with. I used a relay from the RV store ($17) and it worked fine, or you could use a solid state isolator. I learned that those relays can't tolerate water so be careful where you mount it if you go this way. I sealed the second one with RTV and never had a problem. Also be sure to use a circuit breaker or fuse between the between the aux battery and the camper, otherwise it's a fire hazard. Good Luck!" End of Vince's story.
I used and recommend the factory relay. It plugs directly into the factory harnes and is quite a good piece. I mounted the relay onto the battery tray; Vince drilled through the firewall - something I'm reluctant to do. I wired my camper directly to the aux battery through a 50A fuse. With the key on,
I've tried to edit and finsh the above post, but it won't let me---maybe I'm over the word limit or something. Anyway--
With the key on, the truck supplies the power and recharges the aux battery; with the key off, the camper runs off the aux battery (remember to switch the reefer over to gas!!!). The system is transparent and I never have to think about it until someone asks a question.
You have to run some heavy wire to the camper for a 30A load. I used #6 wire for mine, even though 8-10 may be adequate.
Thanks for the reply. I thought maybe there would be an issue with the center of gravity by putting a short camper on a long box. I did give some thought to the dorky look, you're right there! This will be my first camper experience. I've been hauling the horse trailer for a number of years with a GMC Suburban which doubled as my camper (mattress in the back/truck tent on the tail). I've never driven a truck with a camper on the back so, I want to keep it simple and lightweight. I will have two big dogs and my husband with me, so more than likely will go with an 8ft camper. What model slide in do you have? Are you happy with it? Also considering a hard side as opposed to a pop up for more storage and more efficient heat usage, but I really want something on the smaller side no matter what I get. I'm concerned about being able to see on the passenger side in order to make lane changes. I also want to be sure I can get the camper on and off on my own. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
There won't be a center of gravity issue with a short bed camper moved forward in a longbed. The issue is getting the CG too far back. A long bed camper in a shortbed is much more of a concern.
You can find a lot of camper manufacturers in the RV Industry Assoc website: http://www.rvia.org/
The Phoenix has insulated softwalls, we have camped several times in cold and snow up in the Sierra's. It stays nice and warm inside when we have the heater turned up. We have a down comforter and turn the heat down to 35 at night to save gas.
I'm reasonably happy with the Phoenix, but if I had it to do again I might spend the extra $2K and get a 4Wheel Camper(http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/). They have a separate 'Artic' liner for the soft sides when the weather gets cold.
One thing I like about doing web research is that you can find the specs on most of the campers without having to listen to the salesman. The 4Wheel camper is narrower than most - 80" vs 84". We had our Phoenix custom made to that same width. I like the lack of side overhang. You can see pictures of our camper under 99 Silverado at: http://community.webshots.com/user/mledtje
Long ago on this group, we discussed the virtues of popup vs hardsides. Some of the differences are:
- Popup is lower - better fuel economy
- Popup is lower - Lower CG for better handling
- Popup is lower - better clearance when off road
- Hardside is already setup when you stop
- Hardside is ready to go when you put the dishes away
- Hardside has more storage than a popup
- Hardside can leave the bed anyway you want
We had been motorcycle/tent camping and the popup had a lot of room compared to that. Your prior experience in the Sub is closer to tent camping than a camper, so you will probably not need the space that some folks do.
Appreciate all the info. I just got the brochure on the Northstar Camper in the mail yesterday. Looks pretty nice. I also looked at the 4WheelCamper on the internet as well - I like the big window. Seems like it would make the unit brighter inside. Your camper is beautiful. That canyon drive in death valley looks interesting to say the least. Thanks again.
We have camped 12 nights in our Northstar since picking it up at the factory in Oct. Overall impression so far is that it is well made and outfitted. Minor complaint - only one light over bed and of course its at the "wrong" end. I'm sure they would reposition it if specified on order. It is a small family run plant and very easy to work with to add extras not on their option list. We had solar panels installed and 12Volt plugs added to use for flourescent lights as needed. They have a "polar pack" insulation pack for the windows and canvas areas that seems to work well. Only been out at ~25 degrees so far but small electric heater kept it toasty (when plugged in I use electric heat rather than propane). It is very fast to release four clamps and crank it up. The effort for cranking is very low. You'll spend a LOT more time leveling the truck for either type than it takes to crank up the popup. Whatever you pick out spend a lot of time sitting in the one on the dealers floor and look at details such as light placement, where you might put a solar controller etc. before ordering.
Thanks for the helpful followup on the quality of the Northstar. When my Sunlite popup is ready to be replaced, I'll seriously consider picking up a Northstar at the factory. You mentioned some 12 volt plugs. Do you have 12v flourescent lights that plug into the kind of 12 volt outlets seen on generators that have this kind of output in addition to 120? If so, where did you get them?
Picking up a camper in Iowa will also give me the opportunity to try a Maid Rite. Although I grew up in Omaha, I never heard of the Maid Rite. Maybe they won't let them cross the Missouri.
I've added a pair of 55w halogen back-up lites this fall that come on along with the standards. Looks like a locomotive from behind when backing up.
Lites were Wallmart $18 special about 2" dia. w'flat 'U' brackets and fastened them to the round hitch tubing with sst hose clamps. Really puts down the lite for rear vis.
The wire Vince mentioned was part of the factory camper wiring package. He pulled it out of the underhood wiring center and connected it to the aux battery relay - just to get the power from the battery/relay to the camper.
I don't have the camper wiring (it is not available with a manual transmission!!!) so I had to fabricate all the camper wiring myself.
I ran some 6 or 8 gauge wire from the relay through a big fuse and to the camper. The aux battery negative side I grounded with the battery tray bolt. And the camper ground is bolted to the frame directly under the bed.
Dumb question: the factory dual battery option doesn't run this way, does it? I have the camper wiring and I was wondering if the factory set-up is an aux / main battery combo. Thanks, -Eric
I don't have the camper wiring either. Made my own. I have ordered the relay and battery box. The dealer had never seen or heard of the relay. Thanks for the part #. I don't think I am going to take the battery tray because of the limited size battery that will fit. Think I will put the battery in the truck bed. Then I can use a large deep-cycle one. My truck also has a junction box (wire from battery,alternator,and to starter) with an extra stud that I will run from rather than than the starter.
I haven't visited this board for awhile. I'm glad to see some new names. Regarding the battery issue, you can see my pictures etc at my new web address
I've used a solid state isolator, an aftermarket relay, and the GM factory relay in my various trucks. They all work fine. The isolator has the advantage of no contacts to pit and wear out over time. Just be sure to get one able to handle high current, at least 50 amps (100 is better). The relay is a little easier to install because you can pick up the 12V at any convenient spot and just send it to the aux battery. The isolator needs the output of the alternator connected to it first, then a cable from it to the main battery and another cable to the aux battery. It's basically 2 diodes which allow alternator current to flow to both batteries but will block flow the other direction so one battery can't discharge into the other.
The GM battery tray is not small, nor does it restrict the choice of batteries except maybe for very large ones. The one requirement is that the brace be removed. I put an Optima deep cycle group 78 battery in mine. I'm quite satisfied with the installation and performance. Having the battery in that spot doesn't block access to anything and it's always there if needed for a self-jump. Putting it in the bed takes up space and leaves it vunerable to damage or theft.
Oltroll, if you are refering to that red plastic juction box near the alternator mine has that too. The extra stud is for jumper cables but would work fine for the aux wiring. The starter is a better location if you are using the factory locations because it's close to the relay connector. The cable doesn't have to cross the engine bay. The factory cable is nice because it has heat insulation near the exhaust manifold area and it has a fuseable link to prevent disaster. A heavy wire and circuit breaker would work as well if installed correctly.
Eric, the GM aux battery option was quite the topic of discussion here a while back. We determined that it is NOT wired as we need it for an isolated RV battery. Rather it's set up to only be connected when the engine is on. Once you turn off the key, no battery. I assume the intent is just to support high current accessories when the truck is in use. If you look at the end of my battery web page I've included the factory schematics for the aux battery and camper wiring options.
Loren, good move on the backup lights. I did the same thing however mine are only 35W. This time I used the smallest rectangular lights I could find and tucked them under the bumper. On a previous truck I had a round light hanging down and smashed it into things backing up often enough to destroy it. Watch out!
Buzzb, hit the RV store and pick out a nice 12V light. They have a huge selection of styles and it's really easy to wire one in. You'll be happy you did every time you get into bed.
Lauriet1, I agree with Mike that the 8 foot camper is far better just due to the interior space, not to mention the dorky looks of the short one. Don't go with the short one. Also, don't rule out a hardside just because of visibility. A popup will block your rear and passenger side view just as much. It may not require as long of a mirror extension but other than that they aren't so different. The real difference is the weight and frontal area and it's affect on handling and gas mileage. I have a hardside and have traveled many miles with dogs etc. and very much appreciated the space. If you are going to put the dogs in the camper then you need to make sure a popup will have enough room for them to move around with the top down. As far as loading/unloading, the most important factor is the jacks. Since even a light weight camper is still very heavy, you are 100% reliant on the jacks no matter what you buy. I've put electric jacks on mine which are great but that may be fancier than what you are looking for. If you have the choice though, spend the $ for electric. Otherwise I've had screw and hydraulic styles and I prefer the screw (crank) jacks. They give you more control and are a simpler mechanism which means more reliable. I had the removable type with the tripod base, they work fine but are a pain to deal with. Stick with permanently attached ones on each corner. What are you looking to do in your camper? How much to do expect to use it?
Went to an RV show here last sunday and looked at a couple hard sides, spoke with a couple of dealers about the pros and cons of soft side vs. hard side. I decided what I would loose in overhead cabinet space on a soft side model wasn't much when compared to the loss of handling and increased weight of a hard side. I've pretty much decided that I will go with an 8 ft pop up model, basically for the handling/milage issues you alluded to.
What am I looking to do in my camper?
Well,,,Since I've spent the last 10 years sleeping in the back of a suburban, I'm basically want a camper to provide me with a place to sleep with heat when I need it and enough space to change my clothes standing up instead of laying down :>)
I want the ability to store simple, basic necessities like a frying pan, a coffee pot, a couple of pieces of real silverware, basic clothing needs and small canned goods so I don't have to load and unload rubbermaid totes and other various camping gear everytime I go somewhere.
A refrigerator is a must have so I can eliminate the need to drag two huge coolers and the purchasing of ice every day on a week long trip. Since I'm so used to "roughing it", a basic camper without a shower and bathroom will be a luxury for me. Having every creature comfort is not really necessary for my needs.
Most of my trips will be to campgrounds which have horse trail systems. I usually take 10-12 trips per year, most all of them long weekends, one of them is for 10 days. The furthest drive is 3.5 hours, so all of my excursions will be somewhat short trips. I'll be pulling a two horse bumper pull trailer approx 14 foot long (including the tongue of the trailer). Doggies will ride in the ex-cab of the truck, not in the camper.
I've never driven a truck with a camper on it, but alot of my friends do. Driving behind them, I've seen alot of these bigger campers sway terribly (even with camper suspension packages installed on their trucks). It looks pretty scary and from what they tell me, I feels scary too. Some of them are not truly comfortable driving them, so they always have a rider along. I will be putting the camper on and off by myself and driving it by myself. For these two reasons, I want to keep it as simple as possible.
Comments
Most of the country around here is back to normal except when they put up a no fly zones around the nuclear plants etc. Back East still lot of restrictions for all segments of General Aviation which is a little on the over kill side. No GA plane can cause the damage that the fully fueled heavy iron can.
Severl aircarrier pilot friends are extremly concerned about the un-scanned bagage they have to haul an no passenger to bagage confirmation. They believe that it's Russian Rulette every time they take off. My UA captain friend made UA baggage operations remove all the luggage from his 737 out of Miame three weeks ago when 4 male connecting passengers from San Palo were on the ground for 2 1/2 hours but could not be found for his connection. UA did not want to remove their baggage but eventually he said get another flite crew or remove the baggage. They removed the baggage finally. Consequently I won't fly any aircarrier if I can possibly avoid it because of this issue. UA crews think its not if but when.
The VT trip was with the HD only. 2700 mi ave 12.09. Gas price was $1.02 to $1.17 for 87oct. That Hd rides so nice and smooth just can't say enough. GM has still not published an SB to fix the Aux Bat. wiring correctly but ofcourse with everones help here we have it corrected by my dealer.
Did notice cold air coming from under dash on passenger side I'm going to have to figure out. Anyone knows that fix would be appreciated.
Loren / 75v
And those gas prices!!!! Don't know the last time we had prices that low in Northern Cal. The prices have dropped dramatically, currently around $1.35 for Shell 87 and as low as $1.25 for Discount Dan's Mystery Fuel. Until 3-4 months ago, it had been above $1.80 for more than 2 years.
Mike L
Check this bulletin:
http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/01-01-37-008.html
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal) #01-01-37-008
Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)
1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models
Does that sound like your problem?
Mike L
Thanks Mike & Vince again - Can't believe the help you guys are.
But damn - Think I want to be their when they have to do this surgical proceedure.
Let me know if that's an 'SB' and I'll give my dealer a call so he can get someone educated befor I let him touch it.
Loren / 75v
http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/gmsi.html
Mike L
We did release the TP2 for production about 6 weeks ago. From my position, I don't have any idea what was done to correct the problems. I am going to forward your message on to a Brand Quality Engineer that can bring us up to
date. Hopefully he'll be able to tell us what we need to do for your truck.
Stay Tuned.
I did get response from the quality folks. A service bulletin is being written.
I have asked them to let me know the number as soon as it has passed all the process audit folks.
Then I wrote a note to the Brand Manager and asked him for help in getting the information released ASAP. As soon as I know, you'll know.
Silverado Sales Planner
SC
75v
http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/calaw.html
http://www.rvsafety.com/state.htm
Bob
and want to tow a 24 ft Jayco tandem axle travel trailer that has a GVW rating of
6000 lbs and empty weight of 4000 lbs , 500 lb hitch weight and of course a
equalizer hitch and torsion bars. does anyone have experience with the 5.3 liter 8
cyl engine in a similar consit. I want something that will pull the mountains in Pa
and W.Va.
Mike L
My camper is all hard sided in the down position, only the collapsible wall is soft, like tent material. It almost sounds like your entire camper is soft sided.
Mike L
It looks more like wear and tear to the flexible part is caused my putting the camper up and down.
My camper has over 50,000 miles on the truck(s) and still looks good. Some wear of the soft wall, at the corners where it folds. We have a sandwich wall, thin outer, foam insulating center and a thin inner. The outer is cracked on each corner. I can't blame that on having the camper on the truck. Probably cold weather camping, and folding it while it is cold have more to do with it than anything else.
I really like the popup feature. I'm getting 16+ on the highway and have averaged 15+ since I've owned the 3/4 ton truck it is mounted on.
Mike L
You may want the extra length in the future - camping or ? The cost now of the 8' vs. 6.5' is not much.
Good luck,
Mike L
What was that old song, "you don't know what you got till it's gone"
In my case I went from fitting 6 dog crates stacked to 4 and no extra camping supplies,(like firewood) now I have to throw the extras in the trailer. My wife shows Siberian Huskies and I go for the camping since with that many dogs camping is much easier than hotels. The next new truck I'll be going back to the 8' bed for sure!
Ray T.
The question I have is deciding between load range C (50 psi max), D (65 psi max) or E (80 psi max). I have a camper that weighs 1,400 lbs. wet on a Toyota Tundra (camper has no toilet/shower). It will be used 1-2 months out of the year.
Are load range E tires overkill and will the stiffer sidewall cause a significantly 'rougher' ride, especially unloaded? Would load range C or D give me the safety edge I'm looking for without compromising ride quality? Any input would be welcome.
The camper is about as heavy as the Tundra can carry as it has a pretty light payload rating compared to the Big 3. I'll look at "C"'s.
The LR 'C' tires should be adequate. My fullsize Silverado came with LT245/75-16 LR 'C' tires and they can carry up to 2000 lbs each. Double check the rear axle weight of your truck when it is loaded, but that should be plenty for you.
Mike L
Axle capacity should be on your tire inflation sticker on the door.
3/4 and 1 ton trucks usually have about 6000 lb axle capacity. Most E rated tires hold around 3,000 lbs at 80 psi. So they are a natural match.
1/2 ton axle capacity's are usually around 3500 to 4000 lbs, so C rated tires are a natural match.
Thanks
My Truck: 2500HD GMC 2001, 4.10, Vortec 8.1, 5 spd Auto Allison Tranny, 4WD
Will be pulling a 2 horse trailer behind when the camper is on, so I won't consider any camper with a rear overhang.
BTW....I would NEVER put an extention in my receiver to accomodate a longer camper. I've seen some pretty scary looking hookups with this type of setup. Better safe than sorry...
rspetty, rayt2 is right....Go with the 8 foot box I think you'll be happier with the extra length as well.
The relay is energized when the ignition is on, and the aux battery then gets charged. When the ignition is off, the main battery is isolated from the aux load. So you can count on your main battery to start your truck even when you have run down the aux system.
Mike L
But, I think the lost interior space would be more important than the extra storage outside. For just my wife and myself, the 8' floor on our popup camper gets small after some time inside. I don't know what we would do with less interior storage either.
Mike L
The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price has been forgotten.
I used the factory battery tray, and the PN is in Vince's story that follows. When the factory installs and aux battery they remove the fender brace above the battery and fit a battery just like the main battery. With my small battery, I left the brace in place.
Here are Vince's instructions:
"* OK, here's my battery story.
* Chevy at first said you couldn't get the aux battery when you get California emissions (required here), then after I ordered the truck I learned they removed that restriction. So I ordered most of the parts from the parts department and did it myself. The details apply to a 99/00 Silverado. The parts you need:
* 15705102 Support bracket $12.85 356668 Battery clamp $5.70
* 12135194 Relay $42.84 15321214 Cable, pos to relay $29.00
* 15321259 Cable, starter to relay $33.66 15321207 Cable, neg $30.35
* 21021808 Nut, metric, bag/10 $3.60
* You must order the support tray at least. It replaces an existing bracket. The other items can be bought in some form aftermarket but the factory items fit nicely and are well made. I didn't buy the battery but found that I will have to because the available height is very minimum so the low profile side terminal battery is all that will fit. I don't know yet if they make a deep cycle battery in that style but I hope so because it's important to use that type. If desired, they sell a battery insulator jacket like is on the main battery for only a few dollars. The overall concept is that the alternator output is taken from the heavy cable attached to the starter motor, run to a relay, and the other side of the relay then goes to the aux battery AND the camper. This means when the engine is on, the main battery and the aux battery and the camper are all connected together (in parallel) so the alternator can charge everything. Then when the ignition is off the relay opens up and only the aux battery is connected to the camper. If the camper has its own battery (mine does) then the two batteries are connected together so you get double capacity. Of course you can run them down without affecting the main truck battery. Now some useful details I learned. First, disconnect the main battery negative cable! Attach the cable to the starter using one of the new nuts, don't take off the original cable, just add the new one. The stud is long enough. Access the starter stud via the passenger side wheel well. I was able to reach over the top of the tire and get in there with a small rachet. The end of the cable with heat shielding goes here. Find the connector for the relay control hanging near the air conditioner dryer tank. This is near the aux battery location against the firewall. It is a 2 pin connector, if you don't have air cond. then there might be two connectors. The one with the white locking clip is for the air cond., use the other one. Mount the relay on the firewall in a convienent location, you have to drill 2 holes. Don't put it where the battery will hit it or where the studs could touch metal parts. Plug in the little connector and attach the heavy cable to the bottom stud using one of the new nuts. Tie the cable to the frame away from the exhaust manifold. Notice the cable has a fuseable link in the relay end. Get some heavy automotive wire, at least 10 guage. Put a ring lug on one end and connect it to the top relay stud. This wire has to go across the engine bay to the big fuse box on the driver's side. I ran it up over above the engine using clamps to hold it to the firewall. The aux battery positive cable also attaches to the same relay stud. I ordered the trailer towing package and the camper/5th wheel wiring options. These are both the same electrically but the camper wiring just has an extra bundle between the cab and bed with unfinished ends. The following details apply to both the camper and hitch wiring. The camper positive lead is red and comes into the fuse box in one of those big covered bundles. It goes to a hidden stud and is powered via the upper left most fuse (40A) which isn't installed from the factory but they give you loose with the towing option. We don't use this because we don't want main battery power. To get this wire free, you need to lift the entire plastic body off the fuse box. Remove the top, then pull the bottom far side away from the little tabs locking it down. Pull up and you can get a few inches of movement. You may need to unlock the clip between the fuse box and the fender with a screwdriver. The cover will not come off due to a bracket but you can get enough distance to see the red wire on the stud in the far left corner. Remove the wire, pull it out and put the plastic back in place. This is the feed for the camper and needs to connect to the heavy wire coming from the relay. You shouldn't connect them directly because it's a safety hazard. A better way is to connect them through a circuit breaker. At the auto or RV store they sell little 30A breakers for about $3 that have two studs. Connect each wire to a stud and you have a nice junction block and protection against shorts. I mounted the breaker on the plastic fuse box, in the cutout where your fingers go to pull the cover off. This way the connections are covered when the cover is on. Only thing left is the aux battery negative cable. I don't know where it goes because I haven't put a battery in yet. I'm sure there must be a good ground nearby since this is a factory option. Otherwise just connect it to a solid, clean metal ground. For the camper end, I ran the wire bundle into the bed through one of the existing holes in the front corner. Then ran it behind my bedliner and mounted a nice metal connector in the bedliner wall (had to shorten the connector with a hacksaw). I bought the connector at the RV store. It fits almost flush against the bedliner, has 6 pins and a spring loaded door to keep the elements out. The door also locks the mating connector in when inserted. I put in a similar system in my old truck but didn't have any factory provisions to work with. I used a relay from the RV store ($17) and it worked fine, or you could use a solid state isolator. I learned that those relays can't tolerate water so be careful where you mount it if you go this way. I sealed the second one with RTV and never had a problem. Also be sure to use a circuit breaker or fuse between the between the aux battery and the camper, otherwise it's a fire hazard. Good Luck!"
End of Vince's story.
I used and recommend the factory relay. It plugs directly into the factory harnes and is quite a good piece. I mounted the relay onto the battery tray; Vince drilled through the firewall - something I'm reluctant to do. I wired my camper directly to the aux battery through a 50A fuse. With the key on,
With the key on, the truck supplies the power and recharges the aux battery; with the key off, the camper runs off the aux battery (remember to switch the reefer over to gas!!!). The system is transparent and I never have to think about it until someone asks a question.
You have to run some heavy wire to the camper for a 30A load. I used #6 wire for mine, even though 8-10 may be adequate.
Good Luck,
Mike L
I have a Phoenix(http://phoenixcampers.com/index.html) popup. They are made near Denver.
You can find a lot of camper manufacturers in the RV Industry Assoc website: http://www.rvia.org/
The Phoenix has insulated softwalls, we have camped several times in cold and snow up in the Sierra's. It stays nice and warm inside when we have the heater turned up. We have a down comforter and turn the heat down to 35 at night to save gas.
I'm reasonably happy with the Phoenix, but if I had it to do again I might spend the extra $2K and get a 4Wheel Camper(http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/). They have a separate 'Artic' liner for the soft sides when the weather gets cold.
My dad would recommend a Northstar by RC Willet in Iowa (http://www.rcwillett.com/)
One thing I like about doing web research is that you can find the specs on most of the campers without having to listen to the salesman. The 4Wheel camper is narrower than most - 80" vs 84". We had our Phoenix custom made to that same width. I like the lack of side overhang. You can see pictures of our camper under 99 Silverado at: http://community.webshots.com/user/mledtje
Long ago on this group, we discussed the virtues of popup vs hardsides. Some of the differences are:
- Popup is lower - better fuel economy
- Popup is lower - Lower CG for better handling
- Popup is lower - better clearance when off road
- Hardside is already setup when you stop
- Hardside is ready to go when you put the dishes away
- Hardside has more storage than a popup
- Hardside can leave the bed anyway you want
We had been motorcycle/tent camping and the popup had a lot of room compared to that. Your prior experience in the Sub is closer to tent camping than a camper, so you will probably not need the space that some folks do.
Good luck with your search.
Mike L
Picking up a camper in Iowa will also give me the opportunity to try a Maid Rite. Although I grew up in Omaha, I never heard of the Maid Rite. Maybe they won't let them cross the Missouri.
Thanks again
That is the best excuse I've ever heard for needing to get a new camper.
Mike L
I've added a pair of 55w halogen back-up lites this fall that come on along with the standards. Looks like a locomotive from behind when backing up.
Lites were Wallmart $18 special about 2" dia. w'flat 'U' brackets and fastened them to the round hitch tubing with sst hose clamps. Really puts down the lite for rear vis.
Loren / 75v
55w backup lights? That's like a pair of headlights in the back!
We are working on a new convert to the Maid Rite camp! Stabbur needs a new camper!
Mike L
I don't have the camper wiring (it is not available with a manual transmission!!!) so I had to fabricate all the camper wiring myself.
I ran some 6 or 8 gauge wire from the relay through a big fuse and to the camper. The aux battery negative side I grounded with the battery tray bolt. And the camper ground is bolted to the frame directly under the bed.
Mike L
Thanks,
-Eric
http://home.attbi.com/~vcm/batt/battery.html
I've used a solid state isolator, an aftermarket relay, and the GM factory relay in my various trucks. They all work fine. The isolator has the advantage of no contacts to pit and wear out over time. Just be sure to get one able to handle high current, at least 50 amps (100 is better). The relay is a little easier to install because you can pick up the 12V at any convenient spot and just send it to the aux battery. The isolator needs the output of the alternator connected to it first, then a cable from it to the main battery and another cable to the aux battery. It's basically 2 diodes which allow alternator current to flow to both batteries but will block flow the other direction so one battery can't discharge into the other.
The GM battery tray is not small, nor does it restrict the choice of batteries except maybe for very large ones. The one requirement is that the brace be removed. I put an Optima deep cycle group 78 battery in mine. I'm quite satisfied with the installation and performance. Having the battery in that spot doesn't block access to anything and it's always there if needed for a self-jump. Putting it in the bed takes up space and leaves it vunerable to damage or theft.
Oltroll, if you are refering to that red plastic juction box near the alternator mine has that too. The extra stud is for jumper cables but would work fine for the aux wiring. The starter is a better location if you are using the factory locations because it's close to the relay connector. The cable doesn't have to cross the engine bay. The factory cable is nice because it has heat insulation near the exhaust manifold area and it has a fuseable link to prevent disaster. A heavy wire and circuit breaker would work as well if installed correctly.
Eric, the GM aux battery option was quite the topic of discussion here a while back. We determined that it is NOT wired as we need it for an isolated RV battery. Rather it's set up to only be connected when the engine is on. Once you turn off the key, no battery. I assume the intent is just to support high current accessories when the truck is in use. If you look at the end of my battery web page I've included the factory schematics for the aux battery and camper wiring options.
Buzzb, hit the RV store and pick out a nice 12V light. They have a huge selection of styles and it's really easy to wire one in. You'll be happy you did every time you get into bed.
Lauriet1, I agree with Mike that the 8 foot camper is far better just due to the interior space, not to mention the dorky looks of the short one. Don't go with the short one. Also, don't rule out a hardside just because of visibility. A popup will block your rear and passenger side view just as much. It may not require as long of a mirror extension but other than that they aren't so different. The real difference is the weight and frontal area and it's affect on handling and gas mileage. I have a hardside and have traveled many miles with dogs etc. and very much appreciated the space. If you are going to put the dogs in the camper then you need to make sure a popup will have enough room for them to move around with the top down. As far as loading/unloading, the most important factor is the jacks. Since even a light weight camper is still very heavy, you are 100% reliant on the jacks no matter what you buy. I've put electric jacks on mine which are great but that may be fancier than what you are looking for. If you have the choice though, spend the $ for electric. Otherwise I've had screw and hydraulic styles and I prefer the screw (crank) jacks. They give you more control and are a simpler mechanism which means more reliable. I had the removable type with the tripod base, they work fine but are a pain to deal with. Stick with permanently attached ones on each corner. What are you looking to do in your camper? How much to do expect to use it?
What am I looking to do in my camper?
Well,,,Since I've spent the last 10 years sleeping in the back of a suburban, I'm basically want a camper to provide me with a place to sleep with heat when I need it and enough space to change my clothes standing up instead of laying down :>)
I want the ability to store simple, basic necessities like a frying pan, a coffee pot, a couple of pieces of real silverware, basic clothing needs and small canned goods so I don't have to load and unload rubbermaid totes and other various camping gear everytime I go somewhere.
A refrigerator is a must have so I can eliminate the need to drag two huge coolers and the purchasing of ice every day on a week long trip. Since I'm so used to "roughing it", a basic camper without a shower and bathroom will be a luxury for me. Having every creature comfort is not really necessary for my needs.
Most of my trips will be to campgrounds which have horse trail systems. I usually take 10-12 trips per year, most all of them long weekends, one of them is for 10 days. The furthest drive is 3.5 hours, so all of my excursions will be somewhat short trips. I'll be pulling a two horse bumper pull trailer approx 14 foot long (including the tongue of the trailer). Doggies will ride in the ex-cab of the truck, not in the camper.
I've never driven a truck with a camper on it, but alot of my friends do. Driving behind them, I've seen alot of these bigger campers sway terribly (even with camper suspension packages installed on their trucks). It looks pretty scary and from what they tell me, I feels scary too. Some of them are not truly comfortable driving them, so they always have a rider along. I will be putting the camper on and off by myself and driving it by myself. For these two reasons, I want to keep it as simple as possible.
I appreciate your thoughts on this.
Laurie