All of the propane cylinders I've ever owned have a date stamped somewhere, generally into the neck. Granted, mine have all been the smaller 2 or 3 gallon size for BBQ, camp lights and cook burners, so they weren't the kind installed in campers. I recently had to buy one of the new style cylinders because the vendor would not fill my old one. The date on the old one was '88 or '89, if memory serves.
Air cylinders for SCUBA diving are treated the same way, but they must be re-hydroed more frequently than propane cylinders - like every 5 years, I think, but don't quote me.
is basically a test conducted to validate the structural integrity of a device, like a tank, a piping system, a pressure vessel, or in our case, a propane cylinder.
The propane cylinder (a pressure vessel) is designed to withstand a certain amount of internal pressure exerted by the propane. The "design" pressure of a vessel is higher than it's "working" pressure, generally by at least a factor of two, or perhaps more. I.e., a vessel with a working pressure of 100 psi would have a design pressure of 200 psi, or more.
Periodically, pressure vessels are tested at a pressure that is 1-1/2 to 2 times higher than the normal working pressure, but less than the design pressure. In the above example, the vessel would be pressurized to somewhere around 150 psi to check for leaks and potential failure.
The "Hydro" part of hydrostatic testing refers to the method of testing, in which the vessel is completely filled with a non-compressible liquid, water for example, then more liquid is pumped in until the pressure reaches the desired test value (it doesn't take but a few drops or cc's to do this, depending on the size of the vessel). The inlet valve is then closed, and the vessel is allowed to sit pressurized for a period of time. If there is a leak, the pressure will drop rapidly.
Liquids are most often used for this purpose because it wouldn't be very smart to pressure test a vessel with air or any other compressible gas, because if the vessel fails you are likely to have an explosive condition, like a balloon popping (maybe a really BIG one, if it's high pressure and/or high volume). If you are using a liquid, and the vessel fails, you only get a little squirt of water.
In my case I have never had a propane cylinder recertified. Buying a new one has always been cheap enough at $20 or so, and it will be good for at least twice as long as a recertified cylinder. In your case, it may be a different story. I have no idea how much the larger cylinders cost. I also don't personally know of anyone who recertifies them, but I am certain that your local propane supplier (Northern Energy, perhaps?) will either be able to do it themselves, or will know someone who does.
I didn't mind the long windedness. Now I know. I've seen the small 15lb cylinders at Wal-Mart for under $20 bucks, but I never have priced the larger 30lb ones. I guess I should before I have to convert them to the new valves. Never know, It is possible the new valve could cost nearly as much as the whole tank. I had my tanks topped off last week, so I am hoping not to have to worry about it for the rest of this year. But, it is never too early to start researching.
I paid about $65 for a new 30# for my trailer last year, including the fill at a local propane dealer. You can get pricing off the websites of any of the camping stores out there or yellow pages for your area. In my area Campers Barn http://www.campersbarn.com ,is the hot shot RV dealer supply house here (Kingston, N.Y.) Their showing the 30# @ $72 in their catolog.
I'm sure these cylinder prices are fairly level across the country, so that gives me an idea of how much not to spend on a new valve and possible testing down the road.
Thanks for all the great info. I have horizontal tanks from 93 so I am on the edge all around. I just expect grief when I go to refill and try to explain the horizontal tank exemption. I know the place I bring it here in MA (BJ's Wholesale) looks at my tank with the meter on it and wonders what that is doing on it. I can't imagine when I try the exemption line. I'll post what happens when I try. Fortunately I'm full now.
I drove up to the Mendocino area this week with the camper and my new Rancho RS9000 shocks. I had them set to 4 front, 5 rear. They are definitely an improvement over the Edelbrocks. Noticeably less rocking and floating. That isn't to say those things are gone, I wouldn't mind a little more damping but it's good enough now. It took less effort to drive the Hwy 1 twisties since I didn't have to compensate for the weight moving around. The ride was fine, no harshness at all. I tried my informal shock test: roll very slowly, hit the brake to stop in place, count the front end bounces. Stock = 5, Edelbrock = 3, Rancho = 2.
Hi all, hopefully this is the right place to ask this question.
I bought an old pop-up camper last year, a 1977 Venture Buckingham ("the palace on wheels"!). This spring I plan to take it on a long trip, 2,500 miles round trip. The camper was apparently never heavily used, as the canvas is perfect and the tires appear to be original.
Not wanting to drive that far with 25 year old tires on the trailer, I plan on replacing them shortly. So my question is this: should I replace the original 5:30-12 tires with radials that are near in size (is it worth the 30% price premium?), or just go with the same type/size?
I have owned 4 popup trailers over the years. They were big to small in size. I always used bias ply tires. Whatever you choose be sure that they are trailer service tires. I would get load range C if I were you. Also be sure to keep them inflated to the maximum recommended. 25 year old tires are unsafe no matter what they look like. Have fun on your trip.
Don't ignore those bearings before your long trip. Make sure you carefully clean and inspect them before you leave. New seals and a quality grease (I use red grease, Penzoil 707) will certainly add peace of mind while you are out on the interstate and those little wheels are humming along at almost twice the RPM of your tow rigs tires. While on the topic of bearings, what greases do the rest of you folks recommend? I would like to try a full synthetic some day (like the Kendall blue stuff), but I want some real-world results before I switch over. My uncle turned me on to the red grease, and I have had good luck with it. It seems to hold up much better than the standard short-fiber wheel bearing greases I was using.
Synthetic lubricants have been around quite a while and as far as I've ever read are always superior to organic, just more expensive. I'd go for the synthetic. I use it for the engine, brakes, differential (stock), and chassis. I don't know about the auto transmission though. Does anyone know about that?
I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Started when I read about a guy in UK building a Feet Forward motorcyle. He had big problems with the steering linkage lubricant washing out (lots of rain, you know) until he tried Mobil 1. It stays in place where other grease wash out.
I've used synthetic oils for years, so I switched to the M-1 grease.
Vince, why would you feel any different about the sythetic ATF? It has the same advantages as synthetic in other applications. I would think a heavily loaded automatic transmission would be an ideal application for a synthetic lubricant.
Thanks for your replies, I guess I will stick with the stock size bias ply tires. I will definitely consider the C load range tires, although my camper is fairly small, only 1,250 pounds dry weight.
The bearings were recently re-packed, so they should be good to go.
If your trailer does not have bearing buddies it would be a good idea to install a set they are easy to use and it allows you to grease your bearing with a grease gun anytime. I grease the bearings on my trailer before every trip. BTW I use Lubriplate industrial grease and it works well.
I've gone back to using long fiber greases in trailer applications, and rear floating axle bearings. I use either Mobil 1 or SkiDoo Synthetic for everything else.
Can't remember the name of the conventional long fiber grease I use, it was recommended in the Dexter trailer axle book that came with my trailer.
As far as trailer tires, I like the old style bias ply for small applications.
For large trailer applications, I have bought my last set of Goodyear ST trailer tires, we seem to kill them when pulling our trailers at 80mph down the interstate, and dragging them hauling butt over 11,000 passes that have rocks sprinkled on the road.
We are going back to LT tires for the trailer, and are going to be AR about covering them from the sunlight while not towing......
I just received a note from a retired navy friend who keeps his camper on a base in Rhode Island. A year ago he was frustrated by the amount of time that it took to clean the last traces of polyethyleneglycol-based antifreeze from his water system when he put the rig back on the road. Last fall he filled the system with cheap vodka from the PX and this year he is not at all worried about removing the last traces of antifreeze. If this approach is used, it would be a good idea to be securely parked and finished for the day before drawing a nice glass of drinking water, however.
Has anyone replaced the exterior rubber trim that runs along the edges of their RV? On my Lance it's a white flexible material inside metal tracks on the front and rear. Well it used to be there, now most of it has cracked and fallen out. I wonder how easy it is to slide new rubber into those tracks.
Attila and I are going to a 4wd "safety" course May 4th at Hollister Hills. The 4wd part of the park is closed to the public for it. There are a few hours of classroom and then the rest of the day on the trails. I guess he shows how-to and how-not-to do things like extraction etc.
Mike (or anyone else) you want to come along? You can still get a reservation.
I'm working on signing up. I want to bring Dorothy along as a copilot, so she can overcome some of her fears of offroading. Hopefully, the 'controlled' environment and instructors will make her feel better.
That's great Mike. She can come for free if she is not a driver. Attila will probably be alone, Terri will be with me. This is my Christmas gift from her.
Did you get a reservation? I have Doug's email if you need it, he handles things himself.
I've just returned from a weekend out with the camper. Found a nice little lake by just wandering on some backroads and following whatever sign looked promising. I set the Rancho shocks to 4 front and 5 3/4 rear. The rear ones actually go past the #5 detent so I cranked them all the way this time. It has a noticeably firmer ride than the old Edelbrocks, the sharp bumps come through more. But the lack of float and rocking is well worth it. I tried 5 on the front but it was too rough. I recommend these shocks to anyone that uses the truck with the camper on and off.
Vince, what time are you going down? My guess is you're heading down Friday night to be ready for the 8:00 Safety check. I'm bringing the camper. Doug said that is not a problem, and it didn't sound like we were going on any tough trails. Probably simpler stuff than we went on with Steve.
If not, do you want to meet somewhere? We will leave about 6:30-6:45. So we get to sleep in a little.
I don't know........The Black Hills are pretty spectacular, as are the Montana Rockies, Canyon Country, Wyoming, even the deserts of Nevada. Oh, I like it all. Never been someplace that had no beautiful scenery (except cities).
We are heading out east....eastern Labrador! and if time permits, Newfoundland also. Then we will have driven to every US state and Canadian province that you can drive to. OK, Newfoundland takes a ferry ride. It looks like it is about 3500 miles from CA to Labrador....about the same as from CA to Alaska!
Doesn't matter where you go, as long as you like it and everybody isn't there at the same time.
Mike -- Take it your not making it to the MaidRite this summer???
Update on the AUX Battery deal -- Tuns out GM does not intend to make the correction a Service Bulletin. My Silverado Sales Planner gave the following - Quote
The information is now in the TAC (Technical Assistance Center) system available to every dealer. Because the correction involves changes to the electrical system, we must only release this correction through authorized GM Dealers. We do this for your protection and for ours so that making the changes don't cause other electrical and computer systems errors. Please go back to your dealer and have them contact the TAC for assistance in parts information as well as the correct service procedures for this update and change. If the dealer has difficulty getting the answers, have the dealership use their Lotus Notes system to send me a note and I will ask to have the TAC contact the Dealership Service Manager direct.
Let me know how you make out in the dealership. Thanks! -SC
My Dealer Did and following are the Parts On Order to make it GM Official PN15372010 -- Cable ASM, AUX BAT POS -Q: 01 PN15372009 -- Cable ASM, BAT POS -Q: 01 PN15305003 -- Block ASM, AUX BAT POS C -Q: 01 PN1517031 -- Nut, BAT POS FUSE BLK CB -Q: 01 1-Remove the aux pos bat cable incl the 125A mega fuse. 2-Remove the aux bat cable between the 125A mega fuse ant TP2 solenoid. 3-Order above parts / Probably before you start #1 4-Install new aux pos bat cable that connects the new block assy 40 amp(Side A) and to the TP2 solenoid. 5-Pull 40amp Maxi-fuse located in Power Dist (UBEC) near Stud 1. 6-Install new aux pos bat cable from block assy 40 amp(Side to Power Dist (UBEC) Stud 1.
Then it goes on which is strange SO not sure if they know what their doing after all -- Note this cable will be double stacked on top of the trailer B positive at stud 1. If the condition we discussed is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. Please communicate your results back to GM TAC by either calling for further assistance if these steps do not resolve the condition or by faxing the closing information using the precall worksheet TA-99. This recommended diagnostic approach was developed for this vehicle based on our discussion over the phone. It should not be used for other vehicles with similar symptons
We have to drive somewhere near Iowa to get to the east coast from California, so we will be getting our Maid-Rites this summer - July to be closer. We promised my dad that we would go canoeing with him. I expect to be in Iowa around the 5th or 6th of July, stay a few days and then continue east.
So, after reading the above, is your aux battery working to your satisfaction? I would have to get out my schematics to understand what they are attempting to do. Maybe you already understand it and can explain better?
I snowmobile every winter in the N. Rockies (Montana, ID) and race dirtbikes in the summer in NV.
Agree that the country is much better than the cities.
But the young San Juan mountains in SW Colorado are still my personal favorite. And driving a 4wd or riding a dirtbike at 12,500' elevation for miles on end is hard to beat.....
I haven't made it to the black hills yet, though...
Grew up in the East, there really isn't anything exciting for me east of the Missip.
-Main power is connected to one side of the TP2 relay already. -The other side of the relay goes to the aux battery and to the new 40 amp breaker. This charges the battery when the relay is on and leaves the battery connected to the trailer when it's off. -The output side of the breaker goes to stud A which has the trailer wire. -Pulling the 40A fuse separates stud A from the main battery so it becomes just a junction point.
That should do it. You loose the 125A fuseable link between the alternator and aux battery but I guess that's okay. Pretty unlikely the battery will short out. And just to think, it only took six months (?)! Actually I'm surprised the factory took the time to do that. I guess it pays to be persistent.
In other words, the functionality is the same as ours. Charges the aux battery when running, and isolates it from the main battery when the key is off. The camper is connected to the aux battery at all times.
The only reason for using stud A as a tie point is: that is where the camper wiring terminates. Otherwise, you would run the camper wiring to the aux battery/fuse/relay.
Markbuck have you seen the new Yamaha rx-mountain sled? They had one up here at the arctic man. If you havent seen it it is a 4 stroke sled, it has >140hp and weighs about the same as an 800 with electric start, also it has 60% more torque than a 2 stroke. The only sled that could climb with it was the Crazy Mountain Extreme.
Is anyone planning a trip up here to Alaska this summer if you are let me know I can give you some tips.
Am considering putting solar on my lance, should like to have a second battery as we do a fair amount of boondocking, my question is has anyone put a second battery in a roof storage pod, securely stablized of course, am looking at agm Lifeline batteries. Would like to know what type of problems I'd run into and how to overcome them. The camper is not set up for solar.
Just curious, why do you want to mount your battery up so high?
Normally, we try to keep weight down low to reduce that top-heavy swaying. Don't know what kind of truck you have, but usually there is room for the auxillary battery under the hood. Most manufacturers install a 2nd battery for diesels, and the space is there for a non-diesel. Then you wire the 2nd battery to the camper and use a relay to isolate it from the main battery when the engine is off.
Another place to mount a 2nd battery is in the bed in front of the wheelwell. Either side. I have one mounted to the camper, just in front of the passenger side wheelwell. The space normally is wasted space. I chose the passenger side because the driver side is heavier from all the appliances mounted there on my camper. That battery is so I can have some power when the camper is off the truck.
The solar should help keep the battery charged when you are parked. I don't know how much electricity you use, but I've never run down my aux battery when camped for a couple of days. And even when I drained it by leaving the refrig on 12V, running the truck for a few minutes brought it back enough for the night.
Thanks for the info, the truck is a diesel and leaves me no room under the hood for a extra battery. Am interested in how you mounted your battery to the camper just in front of the passenger side wheelwell. I don't know if my camper jacks will lift the camper high enough to allow the camper to come on board over the wheelwells than sit down. The reason for thinking of putting a battery in the storage pod, couldn't figure out where else to possibly put one. I contacted lance but received no help from them at all in attempting to install a 2nd battery.
I agree with Mike. I used to have a slide-in and I remember how important it was to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. I, like yourself, don't understand exactly what Bob is talking about when he said he mounted his in front of the passenger side wheel well. Maybe he meant behind, which if looking at the truck from the rear, would appear to be in front. Either way, my thought would be to mount it on the camper between the wheel well and rear of the bed. At least, that would have worked on mine.
Another location which is just being wasted now is under the truck, behind the cab on the outside of the frame rails, either side. This is where GM used to have the exploding gas tanks. I think it was Oltroll who installed one there. If possible, a sort of shelf that would accept a battery box would be ideal because it could be fairly easy to service the battery.
I remember Ford back in the 70's (?) had a locking door to the outside in that area. I never knew what it led to, I assume a storage bin. I'd love to have such a bin to hold jumper cables etc. Why doesn't any manufacturer offer it? Anyone remember those doors?
P.S. I think the roof is a not a good idea. Raising the cg is bad as mentioned, also if a tree limb or overhang hit it the result could be nasty. In an accident the battery could fly out if not really well restrained.
I mounted the battery in the wasted area in front of the bed wheelwell (towards the front of the truck. It is kind of inaccessible when the camper is in the truck.
The battery is tucked up against the side of the narrow portion of the camper. I have a 1/2" plywoood frame for it and some heavy shelf brackets to help support the weight. And I also have a couple of straps from the camper, under the battery and back to the camper. It is a small battery, but it is still heavy and with potholes, etc. the forces can be quite high. I used a wheelchair battery, so it is a deep discharge type, but small like a lawn tractor battery
All in all, I think mounting it to the bed of the truck with a disconnect plug would be a safer idea, but I really wanted some power when I offload the camper.
Vince's idea of mounting it under the bed is a good idea. Some hot rod or race places carry steel battery boxes that could be adapted.
Thanks for all the information, I really apperciate it. Am planning to go ahead with the solar installation and one battery and down the road possibly adding a second battery, I like the idea of one in front of the wheelwell as when the camper is dropped will still have the battery for power
The battery is only hangs down about 1" more than the wheelwell is down from the lip of the bed. I lift the camper higher than that for installation and removal.
So, no I don't have to raise the camper so the battery clears the wheelwell.
On my truck (don't quote me, this from a sometimes defective memory) I have 8-9" from the top of the wheelwell to the top of the bed. With a short battery, no problem.
If I pull the camper off in the near future, I will take a couple of pictures. We are leaving on vacation the end of June, and I don't think the camper will come off before that. But, maybe it will.
OK, that makes sense. I was looking at it from the standpoint of mounting the battery so that it almost touched the floor of the truck bed. You mounted it as high as the camper would allow it. I also remember now that you said you used a wheelchair battery, am I correct? I was thinking a big honking marine deep cycle battery. Obviously I was reading, but not comprehending.
Heck of an idea. I wish I had thought of that when I had mine.
I mounted the spare battery in a angle iron bracket in the space ahead of the right rear wheel on my 2001 Ram. On my '95 Ford it was mounted on the left side. Plenty of room in either spot but side was chosen to minimize potential interferance with parking brake cables etc. I brought the cable from the battery along with other hookup wires up through the stake pocket and out the hole in it below the top of the box. In this location the battery should be a "low maintenance" type since it would be a pain to add water to a conventional battery unless the truck were on a lift. Apart from not having the battery available when the camper is off the truck, this location works out well - a nice low center of gravity. I don't even know the battery is there most of the time. We leave the camper on the truck while we are on our trips since it is a pop up and we can go just about anywhere with it on the truck. At home, I leave the camper plugged in to 12OV. The Ram is a diesel so I already have two batteries under the hood.
Yup, seen it and read about it. I crash so much, I'd hate to have the hot exhaust waller me....
I'm waiting for a mtn sled that has seating like the REV setup, as a dirtbiker, I really like to stand up, and whoever brings out a REV designed mtn sled first will get my next dollars.
Headed to SteamBoat Springs first week in June with travel trailer. Interested to see if the 8% taller effective gearing (went to LT255/85-16 tires on the 2500HD) really affects my tow performance. Any of yawl that live in southern Wy or N. Colorado, how's the snow load up there. We were hoping to camp in the back country, and dirtbike and flyfish for a week. AZ is so dang dry, they're gonna close the NForests completely in the next coupla weeks.
Comments
Air cylinders for SCUBA diving are treated the same way, but they must be re-hydroed more frequently than propane cylinders - like every 5 years, I think, but don't quote me.
You might want to have a look at your dates...
The propane cylinder (a pressure vessel) is designed to withstand a certain amount of internal pressure exerted by the propane. The "design" pressure of a vessel is higher than it's "working" pressure, generally by at least a factor of two, or perhaps more. I.e., a vessel with a working pressure of 100 psi would have a design pressure of 200 psi, or more.
Periodically, pressure vessels are tested at a pressure that is 1-1/2 to 2 times higher than the normal working pressure, but less than the design pressure. In the above example, the vessel would be pressurized to somewhere around 150 psi to check for leaks and potential failure.
The "Hydro" part of hydrostatic testing refers to the method of testing, in which the vessel is completely filled with a non-compressible liquid, water for example, then more liquid is pumped in until the pressure reaches the desired test value (it doesn't take but a few drops or cc's to do this, depending on the size of the vessel). The inlet valve is then closed, and the vessel is allowed to sit pressurized for a period of time. If there is a leak, the pressure will drop rapidly.
Liquids are most often used for this purpose because it wouldn't be very smart to pressure test a vessel with air or any other compressible gas, because if the vessel fails you are likely to have an explosive condition, like a balloon popping (maybe a really BIG one, if it's high pressure and/or high volume). If you are using a liquid, and the vessel fails, you only get a little squirt of water.
In my case I have never had a propane cylinder recertified. Buying a new one has always been cheap enough at $20 or so, and it will be good for at least twice as long as a recertified cylinder. In your case, it may be a different story. I have no idea how much the larger cylinders cost. I also don't personally know of anyone who recertifies them, but I am certain that your local propane supplier (Northern Energy, perhaps?) will either be able to do it themselves, or will know someone who does.
Sorry to be so long-winded, but you asked...
Thanks again...
Ray T.
I bought an old pop-up camper last year, a 1977 Venture Buckingham ("the palace on wheels"!). This spring I plan to take it on a long trip, 2,500 miles round trip. The camper was apparently never heavily used, as the canvas is perfect and the tires appear to be original.
Not wanting to drive that far with 25 year old tires on the trailer, I plan on replacing them shortly. So my question is this: should I replace the original 5:30-12 tires with radials that are near in size (is it worth the 30% price premium?), or just go with the same type/size?
While on the topic of bearings, what greases do the rest of you folks recommend? I would like to try a full synthetic some day (like the Kendall blue stuff), but I want some real-world results before I switch over. My uncle turned me on to the red grease, and I have had good luck with it. It seems to hold up much better than the standard short-fiber wheel bearing greases I was using.
Texas Trucker
I've used synthetic oils for years, so I switched to the M-1 grease.
Vince, why would you feel any different about the sythetic ATF? It has the same advantages as synthetic in other applications. I would think a heavily loaded automatic transmission would be an ideal application for a synthetic lubricant.
Mike L
The bearings were recently re-packed, so they should be good to go.
Can't remember the name of the conventional long fiber grease I use, it was recommended in the Dexter trailer axle book that came with my trailer.
As far as trailer tires, I like the old style bias ply for small applications.
For large trailer applications, I have bought my last set of Goodyear ST trailer tires, we seem to kill them when pulling our trailers at 80mph down the interstate, and dragging them hauling butt over 11,000 passes that have rocks sprinkled on the road.
We are going back to LT tires for the trailer, and are going to be AR about covering them from the sunlight while not towing......
Mike L
Where to?
Any Off-Road on the trip?
Mike L
Mike (or anyone else) you want to come along? You can still get a reservation.
http://www.espritdefour.com/
I'm working on signing up. I want to bring Dorothy along as a copilot, so she can overcome some of her fears of offroading. Hopefully, the 'controlled' environment and instructors will make her feel better.
Mike L
Did you get a reservation? I have Doug's email if you need it, he handles things himself.
You can rent a Wrangler pretty cheap, or bring your dirtbike. You can take your PU over a few of the passes....
Vince, what time are you going down? My guess is you're heading down Friday night to be ready for the 8:00 Safety check. I'm bringing the camper. Doug said that is not a problem, and it didn't sound like we were going on any tough trails. Probably simpler stuff than we went on with Steve.
If not, do you want to meet somewhere? We will leave about 6:30-6:45. So we get to sleep in a little.
See you there.
Mike L
We are heading out east....eastern Labrador! and if time permits, Newfoundland also. Then we will have driven to every US state and Canadian province that you can drive to. OK, Newfoundland takes a ferry ride. It looks like it is about 3500 miles from CA to Labrador....about the same as from CA to Alaska!
Doesn't matter where you go, as long as you like it and everybody isn't there at the same time.
Mike L
this summer???
Update on the AUX Battery deal --
Tuns out GM does not intend to make the correction a Service Bulletin. My Silverado Sales Planner gave the following - Quote
The information is now in the TAC (Technical Assistance Center) system
available to every dealer. Because the correction involves changes to the
electrical system, we must only release this correction through authorized GM Dealers. We do this for your protection and for ours so that making the changes don't cause other electrical and computer systems errors.
Please go back to your dealer and have them contact the TAC for assistance in parts information as well as the correct service procedures for this update and change. If the dealer has difficulty getting the answers, have
the dealership use their Lotus Notes system to send me a note and I will ask to have the TAC contact the Dealership Service Manager direct.
Let me know how you make out in the dealership. Thanks! -SC
My Dealer Did and following are the Parts On Order to make it GM Official
PN15372010 -- Cable ASM, AUX BAT POS -Q: 01
PN15372009 -- Cable ASM, BAT POS -Q: 01
PN15305003 -- Block ASM, AUX BAT POS C -Q: 01
PN1517031 -- Nut, BAT POS FUSE BLK CB -Q: 01
1-Remove the aux pos bat cable incl the 125A mega fuse.
2-Remove the aux bat cable between the 125A mega fuse ant TP2 solenoid.
3-Order above parts / Probably before you start #1
4-Install new aux pos bat cable that connects the new block assy 40 amp(Side A) and to the TP2 solenoid.
5-Pull 40amp Maxi-fuse located in Power Dist (UBEC) near Stud 1.
6-Install new aux pos bat cable from block assy 40 amp(Side
Then it goes on which is strange SO not sure if they know what their doing after all --
Note this cable will be double stacked on top of the trailer B positive at stud 1. If the condition we discussed is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. Please communicate your results back to GM TAC by either calling for further assistance if these steps do not resolve the condition or by faxing the closing information using the precall worksheet TA-99. This recommended diagnostic approach was developed for this vehicle based on our discussion over the phone. It should not be used for other vehicles with similar symptons
DAH!!!!
75V
So, after reading the above, is your aux battery working to your satisfaction? I would have to get out my schematics to understand what they are attempting to do. Maybe you already understand it and can explain better?
Mike L
Agree that the country is much better than the cities.
But the young San Juan mountains in SW Colorado are still my personal favorite. And driving a 4wd or riding a dirtbike at 12,500' elevation for miles on end is hard to beat.....
I haven't made it to the black hills yet, though...
Grew up in the East, there really isn't anything exciting for me east of the Missip.
-Main power is connected to one side of the TP2 relay already.
-The other side of the relay goes to the aux battery and to the new 40 amp breaker. This charges the battery when the relay is on and leaves the battery connected to the trailer when it's off.
-The output side of the breaker goes to stud A which has the trailer wire.
-Pulling the 40A fuse separates stud A from the main battery so it becomes just a junction point.
That should do it. You loose the 125A fuseable link between the alternator and aux battery but I guess that's okay. Pretty unlikely the battery will short out. And just to think, it only took six months (?)! Actually I'm surprised the factory took the time to do that. I guess it pays to be persistent.
The only reason for using stud A as a tie point is: that is where the camper wiring terminates. Otherwise, you would run the camper wiring to the aux battery/fuse/relay.
Is anyone planning a trip up here to Alaska this summer if you are let me know I can give you some tips.
Normally, we try to keep weight down low to reduce that top-heavy swaying. Don't know what kind of truck you have, but usually there is room for the auxillary battery under the hood. Most manufacturers install a 2nd battery for diesels, and the space is there for a non-diesel. Then you wire the 2nd battery to the camper and use a relay to isolate it from the main battery when the engine is off.
Another place to mount a 2nd battery is in the bed in front of the wheelwell. Either side. I have one mounted to the camper, just in front of the passenger side wheelwell. The space normally is wasted space. I chose the passenger side because the driver side is heavier from all the appliances mounted there on my camper. That battery is so I can have some power when the camper is off the truck.
The solar should help keep the battery charged when you are parked. I don't know how much electricity you use, but I've never run down my aux battery when camped for a couple of days. And even when I drained it by leaving the refrig on 12V, running the truck for a few minutes brought it back enough for the night.
Mike L
Mike L
Just my $.02 worth.
I remember Ford back in the 70's (?) had a locking door to the outside in that area. I never knew what it led to, I assume a storage bin. I'd love to have such a bin to hold jumper cables etc. Why doesn't any manufacturer offer it? Anyone remember those doors?
P.S. I think the roof is a not a good idea. Raising the cg is bad as mentioned, also if a tree limb or overhang hit it the result could be nasty. In an accident the battery could fly out if not really well restrained.
The battery is tucked up against the side of the narrow portion of the camper. I have a 1/2" plywoood frame for it and some heavy shelf brackets to help support the weight. And I also have a couple of straps from the camper, under the battery and back to the camper. It is a small battery, but it is still heavy and with potholes, etc. the forces can be quite high. I used a wheelchair battery, so it is a deep discharge type, but small like a lawn tractor battery
All in all, I think mounting it to the bed of the truck with a disconnect plug would be a safer idea, but I really wanted some power when I offload the camper.
Vince's idea of mounting it under the bed is a good idea. Some hot rod or race places carry steel battery boxes that could be adapted.
Mike L
So, no I don't have to raise the camper so the battery clears the wheelwell.
On my truck (don't quote me, this from a sometimes defective memory) I have 8-9" from the top of the wheelwell to the top of the bed. With a short battery, no problem.
If I pull the camper off in the near future, I will take a couple of pictures. We are leaving on vacation the end of June, and I don't think the camper will come off before that. But, maybe it will.
Mike L
Heck of an idea. I wish I had thought of that when I had mine.
I'm waiting for a mtn sled that has seating like the REV setup, as a dirtbiker, I really like to stand up, and whoever brings out a REV designed mtn sled first will get my next dollars.
Headed to SteamBoat Springs first week in June with travel trailer. Interested to see if the 8% taller effective gearing (went to LT255/85-16 tires on the 2500HD) really affects my tow performance. Any of yawl that live in southern Wy or N. Colorado, how's the snow load up there. We were hoping to camp in the back country, and dirtbike and flyfish for a week. AZ is so dang dry, they're gonna close the NForests completely in the next coupla weeks.