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Mazda5 Brake Questions

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Discuss brake issues with your Mazda5 here.

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  • drvm5drvm5 Posts: 1
    When first driving my M5 each day, the brakes have a very loud squeaking noise (backing out of the driveway, stopping at the end of the street). After a minute or so, the brakes do not squeak anymore.
    Has anyone else had this problem, or know what the problem is? This has starting happening in the last month - could it be related to the cold temperatures?
  • isda65isda65 Posts: 74
    I have started noticing this too exactly as you have described - backing out of the driveway. As I live in a complex where I had to go over 5 road bumps at 10-15 intervals before getting out on the road it takes me the first or second bump to go over before the squeak disappear. Today I didn't notice it though even though it was about 0-1 degree centigrade. At this point, I'm not too sure what to make of it. I figure I'll give it time until summer maybe to see if it persists.
  • hifivehifive Posts: 72
    I have noticed this too since the weather turned cold. I am sure it's related to the cold. I had my Five for five months before winter, and no problem until it got cold.

  • david6david6 Posts: 75
    We have the same initially squeaky brakes on my wife's Mazda3 - I just figured it is the brake pad material developing a bit of rust on them overnight. It is annoying, though, and makes my wife wish for her old Honda Accord, since she has convinced herself that the Mazda will not be as reliable. The squeaky brakes are not helping me convince her that the MZ3 will last.
  • YES!!! It has been happening sporadically for me, but this morning when I was taking my kids to school, as I was leaving my parking spot of my building's garage and driving up and stopping at the garage door, the brake squeal/screech happened very loudly. So much so that my kids asked what was wrong with "Max" - our car's name ;).

    So, yes, it has happened to me just as you have described; and yes, I also put the blame on the cold temperature; and yes the noise stops once I drive my car a few seconds/minutes and brake a couple of times; and yes, I didn't notice this at all when the weather was warm; and no, you are not alone. I also notice that, in addition to squealing, the brakes become very grabby when you use them after the car sits parked for a couple of days.

    Anyone know if this could signify a problem?

    Also, my ABS worked for the first time last night when I stopped at an intersection that was covered with black ice - it's been cold here in NYC - and I actually got excited and clapped.
  • rdrrrdrr Posts: 20
    My 05 Mazda 3 does the squeaky brake thing in the morning also from 600KM. The 04 Mazda had the same problem and Mazda said they fixed the problem for 05. 05 owners are also having this problem, i am not alone. And now the 06 Mazda 5. Come on Mazda get it together. Is this a free Mazda option or a standard built in feature. :mad:
  • It happens sporadically but always during the first time I drive off in the morning, after the ~1st mile it's QUIET. But the last time it happened, the squealing sound was so loud I may have awaken the dead.

    Also, i'm not sure if it's connected to the squealing issue but whenever i have some weight(2 people) on the back. It sounds like it's groaning sometimes sounding like the back is dragging on the road. This issue also ONLY happens during the first few minutes of the drive.

    I'm a newbie and if anybody can recommend what I need to tell/ask the service guy to check it would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance for any input!
  • I've had the car for 3 weeks and noticed that the brakes squeal/grind the first time I drive the car after it rains. The noise stops after the first two or three times I use the brakes.

    I was worried the first time I heard the sound, but then someone at work said the noise was related to the brakes being wet. I haven't given the noise much thought since
    a) the sound always stops, and
    b) I've noticed the noise only happens after it rains.

    I'm curious to see if others have similar experiences, or if I need to have my brakes checked ASAP.

  • Hi, I just bought my 2007 Mazda 5 (Touring trim) and my wife loves this car. But I do have some complaints on the brake. The pedal is high and hard. For example, when I stop at the traffice light, I have to keep pressing down hard to stop the car. Does anyone have the same problem? Thanks.
  • kw_dakw_da Posts: 76
    Bring it back to the dealer and have them look at it. On our Mazda5, the brakes are almost too sensitive - they'll stop on a dime.

  • David: Thanks a lot for your feedback. I just want to make sure the brake is not some common problem from the design of the car (which will make it very hard to fix). I will bring it back to my dealer and have them to take a look. BTW, how do you rate the driving experience of the car, say on a 5 scale? Thanks again.
  • kw_dakw_da Posts: 76

    Well, I think that how you rate the driving experience depends on what you are used to. Compared to the 94 Villager that this car replaced, it has more power and handles better. (but the Villager has more room and has approved towing capability) The Mazda does have the occasionally hesitation under acceleration that others have mentioned. I'm in California, so I don't have to deal with snow as others have complained about. These brakes are so sensitive compared to my other cars, that I have a bit of problem getting used to them when I switch cars.

    I actually haven't driven the car that much since my wife uses it the most - others on the forum may have more info. Many have complained about the lack of power, but it's enough for us.


  • I've had my mazda 5 sport (automatic) for just over 2 weeks and I'm noticing something with my brakes that I'm not accustomed too...

    majority of the time when I apply pressure to the brake pedal, I get resistance from the pedal all the way through... i can ease into the brake pedal and the car slows down to the amount of pressure i put on the pedal... great!

    but once in a while when I put my foot on the brake pedal, I'll get no resistance for about 1/3 of the way down and then suddenly I get resistance and the brakes abruptly start to slow or stop the car...
    this tends to happen when i slow down with the brake pedal, release the brake pedal, coast for a second or two then immediately press the brake pedal again... and it also happens when I try to park the car using the brake pedal to slowly ease into the parking spot (not pressing gas pedal at all just using the brake pedal), sort of looks like a jerking motion of the car each time i release/press the brake pedal and try to inch into the parking spot...

    I find myself searching for the point when the brake pedal should provide the proper resistance to my foot so that the car slows down and/or stops accordingly...

    can't seem to find that sweet spot on a consistent basis...

    sorry if I'm not describing this properly... but does anyone know what might be the issue...
  • castg1castg1 Posts: 34
    Hi, My first experience with such 'behaviour' was when nearing the stop light, at slow coasting speed, the car ahead of us suddenly braked. With my foot off the brake pedal I quickly stepped on it and there was almost no resistance, but the brakes did get applied to the maximum.
    Saving us from a fender bender.

    Reading the manual, I learned that the 'emergency brake assist' or some sort or feature detects the speed of pedal travel. Based on this the brake system will assume you need
    immediate brake application and acts accordingly.
  • Thanks... actually I think I remember reading something about emergency brake assist as well... i hope that's the case...

    I'll have to read on that again... does anyone have anymore info on how the emergency brake assist works or similar experiences???

    I like having some sort of brake resistance against my foot when I hit the pedal so I have some feedback that the car is actually stopping... even if the brakes do get applied to the maxim the lack of resistance doesn't seem right...
  • sam80sam80 Posts: 2
    As I stated in another post, I too experience the same issue. Spoke to the dealership and was told not to worry about it. The service guy said it's just the result of the materials Mazada used on the brake pads.???? Not sure if I am convince though
  • barney16barney16 Posts: 2
    Has anyone noticed any Disc rotor grooves at all?
    Seeing one on my right rear rotor @ 1000 total miles.
    Rotors will obtain surface rust after they become wet(rain)while setting for as little as a day which probably attributes to temporary noise.
  • nola1nola1 Posts: 18
    I also had the groaning when I had big people in the back. After several trips to the dealer and them taking pictures and sending them to Mazda they found the solution and fixed it. They had to change the suspension to stop the tire from rubbing against the tire well.
  • rsolomonrsolomon Posts: 1
    I bought my Mazda 5 ten months ago in Israel. The weather is quite hot here and I do a lot of highway driving. I took it in the other day for the 30 000 Km check (actually 34 000 Km) and was told I needed new front brakes. The dealership is very reputable and said this is quite normal, but doesn't sound normal to me. Has anyone else had to change brakes so soon? Remember, that's 34 000 kilometers which is about 21 000 miles. Thanks for any help.
  • I have one groove on my front passenger side. I only have 1800KM on mine.
  • Hey, all:

    According to my Mazda Full Circle service report, my brake pads are at "yellow", which means about half or slightly more of my brake pads are worn. They do not, necessarily, need to be replaced until I reach "red" status. Anyway, I recently had my tires aligned, but at about 60 mph on the highway I hear, more than I feel, a slight shimmy. Before the alignment, I slightly FELT the shimmy through the steering wheel, but after the alignment, I just hear it - no feeling. So, I think I may need tire balancing, as well.

    In any case, my Full Circle Mazda dealer quoted me a price of $100 for a 4-wheel tire rotation and balancing. They also quoted me a price of $200 for replacing the brake pads in the front, and another $200 for replacing the rear ones. If I want my rotors "shaved", then they would add another $100 to the price of each set of brakes ($200 more for both front and rear). So, getting my tires rotated and balanced, and getting my brake pads change would cost me anywhere from at least $500 to $700 (should I choose to get my rotors shaved). What do you all think of this?

    I, most likely, WON'T get my rotors shaved, since I don't see a need for that. So, it would come out to about $500 plus tax for brake pad service and the tire rotation and balancing. Is that a fair price? Should I shop around? Please advise. Thanks.

    BTW - I have almost 25K miles on my 2006 Mazda 5 (that I bought in July 2005) and my tires are just fine.
  • kanatakanata Posts: 22
    Here in Eastern Ontario the snow is deep. After driving in the snow and having stopped for a while we are experiencing functional brake failure. The symptom is that the brake pedal feels as though there is a brick under it, that is, pressing the pedal does not cause it to move down, and the brakes are not applied. There has been an occasion where the brake and abs lamps lit up as well. I suspect that any collected snow is melting in the heat from the brakes, and solidifying into ice, thus literally freezing the brakes. I have never experienced this before, either in this car (although last winter, my first in the 5, there wasn't much snow), or in other cars. Is this a known problem with the Mazda 5? What can be done to prevent this from happening?
  • Did you ever get this fixed? I am experiencing exactly the same thing on a two week old Mazda 5. Also, the brake pedal seems a bit high and somewhat hard to press. Took it to the dealer, who replaced master brake cylinder - but the car still is not 100% right. Anyone else with these problems?
  • I also live in eastern Ontario and have only had this happen 2 times and both were when i drove through the heavier snow getting onto a recently plowed road. Both times i just drove a bit more causiously and after the car had sat for a bit the packed snow had melted and was fine. light and funny feeling peddle and all.

    I still love the car, just hate how they messed up the transmition when they 'udated' it after the idiots had driven in 2nd gear for hours at highway speeds. They did not fix the issue(update) as it can be repeated on what was then new 2007 cars so they put in the 5 speed from mazda 3 also increasing the mpg at the same time. If you want to duplicate the issue try slowing down, when car is in 3rd, as if for a stop light and then having the light turn green put your foot on the gas there is a hesitation and then it grabs-thud. You can also see it as the dash gear display does not change as the exact same time as the actual transmition. I spoke to one of the engineers and he said they 'dumbed' down the transmision and as not enought people complained they were not bothered fixing it.
  • I live in hilly San Francisco, and find my automatic 2007 Mazda 5 and have great difficulty w/ my car rolling backwards when in gear. When I'm stopped at a traffic light on a hill, if I remove my foot from the foot brake to begin acceleration, the car will roll back indefinitely until I am able to apply the gas enough to get the car moving forward. My previous car was a manual transmission, so I'm new to an automatic, but this strikes me as incredibly odd and unsafe. I'm forced to use both feet when accelerating from a stand still on a hill, keeping one foot on the brake, while accelerating w/ the right foot until there's enough speed to send the car forward. Is this common on the model, or just a fluke w/ my car? Has anyone has luck getting this remedied?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    If the automatic is unsafe where you have the same number of pedals as you have feet (I'm making a big assumption), how did you manage when your feet were outnumbered 3-2?

    With that out of the way, you have to figure that the car weighs ~3,400lbs and it's powered by a 2.3L engine that makes very little torque at idle. If the engine is required to hold the vehicle against an incline, the fuel consumption would need to be increased to support the vehicle. Of course, you'd wonder why your mileage was reduced.

    Say, does Subaru still make cars with the hill-holder feature? Steve_host would know that one.
  • I'm not sure if San Francisco is common for any model :surprise: , but it should be normal to see that. Now, if you used to drive manual tranny, driving an auto on an incline should be much easier to control, no need to juggle with the clutch :)

    The other option is to get a Nissan GT-R, but it is a little bit pricy ;)

    • ATTESA ET-S All-Wheel Drive (AWD) with independent rear-mounted transaxle integrating transmission, differential and AWD transfer case.
    • Rigid, lightweight carbon-composite driveshaft between engine and transaxle.
    • Electronic traction control plus 1.5-way mechanically locking rear differential.
    • Vehicle Dynamics Control (VDC-R) with three driver-selectable settings: Normal (for daily driving, controls brakes and engine output), R-Mode (for ultimate performance, utilizes AWD torque distribution for additional vehicle stability) and Off (driver does not want the help of the system).
    • Hill Start Assist prevents rollback when starting on an incline.
  • mdchachimdchachi Posts: 275
    That's normal behavior for an automatic. I can see how that might be bothersome if you used to use the handbrake to prevent rollback and you no longer have a handbrake. Anyway, if this bothers you, look for a vehicle that has "hill start assist" in your next vehicle. It might be a useful feature in SFO.
  • Try it in a car with 800cc engine, manual tranny and 5 people inside. I have to rev the engine and use the handbrake to hold the car from sliding backwards.
  • Thanks so much for all the info about rolling, and hill assist--definitely a great feature for SF! I'm still concerned, as it seems odd to have to keep my foot on the foot brake while I accelerate to get up the hill. It's actually MORE difficult to get up a hill than in my previous manual VW Jetta GLX. Perhaps it's just because this car does not have a powerful engine. My husband's Ford Taurus does not do this, and I don't believe he has hill assist. Does an automatic switch into neutral when stopped, or is it in first gear?
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