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Mazda5 Brake Questions



  • mrbwa1mrbwa1 Posts: 42
    It really depends on the car/transmission. All traditional automatics have a fluid pump to circulate the transmission fluid through the torque converter and through the passages to shift. Newer cars have replaced fluid pressure shifting with electronics. Also, different transmissions will essentially have different pressures depending ont he engine they are mated to. The traditional large American car has enough pressure at idle to hold the vehicle stationary. Newer, and especially smaller cars don't have this pressure. I would attribute it to both less horsepower in an engine to have to cope with (well technically less torque to multiple in the torque converter) but also it is a side effect of more efficient pieces meaning more power goes directly to the wheels and int he long run a little better fuel economy.

    If nothing else, you can always use the old parking brake trick. It'll wear the parking brake pads sooner, but they have to be cheaper then a pair of new bumpers from a roll-back!
  • Thanks so much. You're all wealths of knowledge!
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    That's not really correct, but if it makes cecily happy it's good enough.

    Shifting in Automatic Transmission is still done by fluid pressure but the directing of the fluid on newer cars is done by computer controlled electrical servos, and not a mechanical valve body.

    Also, the pressure is not what holds holds the car. Rather, it's basically the amount of slippage that the torque converter allows at idle that "holds" the car. This slippage is allowed up to a certain RPM (stall speed). While this stall speed is mostly part of the TQ's inherent design, it can be overridden by a fluid servo that will do nothing more than lock the torque converter (typically at highway speed).
  • I have a 2006 Mazda 5 that requires new rotors and brake pads after 42000 kms. The Mazda dealership tried to suggest it was our driving habits that were causing this problem. After it was mentioned that we have a 1999 Honda Civic with 180000 kms on it and we have changed the brake PADS twice since new and the rotors are original they did concede that it was very low mileage for this kind of problem. I doubt if we will get anywhere with warranty but Mazda Canada will be hearing about this issue.
    As an aside they also mentioned that the left front strut was in need of replacement as it was deemed unsafe to drive the vehicle. I will be sending a complaint to Transport Canada as this is definitely a safety issue.
    I will keep you posted as events unfold.
    :mad: :sick:
  • Has anyone found a solution for the brake squeal in reverse that seems to be somewhat common for Mazda 5s? Our dealer's tried to solve this twice already, and their attempts have been unsuccessful - the brakes still squeal when we back out of the garage.

    Thanks for any suggestions!
  • Mine actually hum/screech sort of like a rusty sound from time to time, specially if they are wet and I am sort like softly riding the brakes when backing up. Dont know why it does it, but it seems to be a common thing. If anyone has a solution, please chime in.
  • What squeal? I cannot heeeeaaaarrr it... :D

    It seems to be part of the sediment/layer that sticks to the rotors after they cool down (i.e. overnight after some rain or snow), and it goes away as soon as you step on the brake a couple of times. During the day you can see it like "rust" on the rotor. Would it have to do with the brake pad material used? Who knows...
  • jon72jon72 Posts: 1
    HI. What should brake pads for my Mazda 5 cost?
    If I don't go to an authorised dealer what make of pad should I fit?
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    I work for a dealership, so I may be partially biased and the fact that I pay cost plus 10% on all factory parts don't help either.

    However, if at all possible stick to original factory parts, they seem to be of a higher quality build and material, plus it is what your vehicle came with from the factory. You can never go wrong with OEM factory parts. If not, I am sure any local auto parts store carries brake pads.
  • I am very concerned that I have been told today, by the service department that the braking system on the Mazda 5 could be at fault after a long journey. What I mean by that is, the garage have told me that the metal on the rear disc brake expand due to any type of heat either a long journey or weather, and when you apply the hand brake and after the disc cool down there is a possibility that they may contract leaves the hand break inadequate for restricting the movement of the cars and the car can be move even when the hand break is on. Can anybody advise me if they have had this problem or anything similar.
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    Oh man this is so bogus!
    The thickness of the disk changes with the temperature, but only microns.
    If you would get the brake shoes only to touch the disk, then yes, maybe there would be a thin gap.
    When the parking brake is applied, there is a lot of tension in the cable. Think of it like a pulled spring. A little change in the thickness of the disk will be accommodated by the tension.
    Now there is a way to pull on the hand brake so hard that a bracket somewhere may get bent and the cable then, gets effectively longer. That leads to the brake not being set properly. Like you would only pull it one or two clicks only. Changes in temperature may affect its effectiveness, then. But the change will be more likely due to brake cable expansion or contraction (tubes also) then the disk brake dilatation.
    Also keep in mind that disk brakes are made to withstand high temperature (and a lot of variation). Such materials do not expand/contract that much.

    Another example of the high qualifications dealership technicians have.
  • My 2006 Mazda 5 needs new brakes at only 30K miles, according to my dealer. This is very low mileage for replacements, but seems to be in line with several other forum complaints (#22, 24, 37). Anyway, the rotors only have about 1mm of wear on each face, so they are not a problem. Does anybody know what the specs are for minimum rotor thickness? The pads are in fact getting low so I will replace them soon. It's been 20 yrs since I did my own brake job, so I'm a little nervous about diving in! Are there any special Mazda tools required? Is there somewhere where the steps are spelled out? Would appreciate any info! Pads run between $60 and $110 for all wheels at auto supply shops, depending on grade. The dealer wants $300 for the job. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    I would not be surprised that the brakes are done at 30k. I mean if you like the brakes performance then expect the pads to wear out. I had many brands of cars, 30k was the number for good disk brakes. Drum brakes last longer, but then again, they don't stop that well.

    The only thing that is hard to do when changing pads is compressing the brake piston. It is now extended to make up for the wear of the old pads. For the new pads to fit in (they're thicker) the piston has to be pushed back.
    Some parts stores will loan you a press for it. Otherwise you can make a wedge out of two wrenches (big ones) and push hard on the piston. To do it easier, you could open the bleed screw behind each caliper, but be sure to bleed the system afterwards to make sure no air got trapped in the piston chamber.
    Other useful things I could think of are to make sure you don't lose the thin copper sheet that sits under the pads - it acts like a spring and also ask the store for some anti-noise paste. It applies on the back of the pads to quiet the squeal.
    It's a good idea to take the caliper apart and re-grease it to prevent it from getting stuck.

    For some cars it is required to use new screws for the caliper, although I never did it.

    Good luck and have fun!
  • Me too! haven't found anyone who is able to make that mess go away. It's embarrassing sometimes. I had new brakes put in and STILL the same noise.
  • OK, I finally got around to replacing my front disk pads today, and now I have another problem or two. First, when I compressed the pistons all the way back, I was looking for the brake fluid reservoir to fill up. But it didn't. The fluid went somewhere else, and I said Hmmm. And it came to get me when I pumped up the brakes after changing the pads, and got a hard pedal. In fact I can't move the car! So now I have to bleed, and my question is do I have to bleed both calipers equally, and how much? Do I bleed about the volume of the new pads and quit, or is there a trial & error procedure? And do I pump the brakes with the bleed screws open, or just let them bleed without pumping? I really don't want to wind up bleeding the whole system by introducing air.

    Second, I couldn't retract the rear brake pistons at all. Does this have something to do with the handbrake function there? And do I have to use the bleed screws to move the pistons, in order to get the new pads in? Thanks for the advice, I need it!
  • I personally do not do my own brakes but I was once told if i did was to buy a plastic tube(single user slit type) that goes over the bleed screw and not to force the fluid back into the reservoir as it is forcing some proportioning valve in the brake system that can wreck it. The plastic tube is to allow one person to drain the fluid with help as it closes back on itself so as not to introduce air if not you need someone to close the bleed value before you release the slowly pressed brake peddle to prevent air getting into the system. every time you press the brakes and bleed them you just need to make sure you are topping up the reservoir so that when you are pressing the peddle you are not drawing air from there.
  • nahag1nahag1 Posts: 10
    What tool do I need for the caliper screws?
  • shawr63shawr63 Posts: 6
    I finally figured out that my brake pad change problem (#48) is that the rear pistons will not retract by applying a clamp - they must be the screw type, not the push-straight-in type. The front pistons push in readily and changing the front pads is a breeze. The F pads were completely worn out at 35K but the R pads are down only maybe a third, so I just left them alone for now.

    But I have to second the question in #50, namely what sort of special tool is needed to retract the R pistons? My wife's '96 Honda Accord wagon also needs a special tool to retract the R pistons - would that work on my Mazda 5? Thanks!
  • nahag1nahag1 Posts: 10
    Thank you athenasius for your help, I'm sorry I didn't make myself clear.
    What I am asking about is the tool (Hex socket ?) and what size (mm?, in?) for the screws holding the caliper to the pad holder
    Thx :)
  • shawr63shawr63 Posts: 6
    What happened finally with the hard pedal/locked F brakes after changing the F pads, was that everything relaxed out overnight and the brakes worked normally! No hard pedal or any other problems in F. Maybe there is an internal bleeder which takes care of any imbalance after pumping up the brakes following pad change, and it just takes time to operate. There is a moral here somewhere if we could just get at it......... Anyway, F pads are OK . I would still like to know what kind of special tool is needed to retract the R pistons. Anybody know?
  • nahag1nahag1 Posts: 10
    Hey shaw63, after you jacked up the car and took out the tire, what did you use to unscrew the caliper? :confuse:
  • shawr63shawr63 Posts: 6
    There are two bolts which hold the caliper to the caliper mount bracket. I think maybe they are 10mm bolts, and they are hidden down in the little black rubber cylinders or sleeves sticking out the back of the caliper. As I remember you have to pull off a black rubber cap to expose the bolt head down in each cylinder. I used a deepwell socket to take them out, but a regular socket might well reach the heads also. After they are out, the caliper will lift off (maybe with a little prying with a tire iron or large screwdriver to get it by the edge of the rotor), and you can replace the pads easily from there. You don't have to unbolt the mount bracket. After that it's a good idea to grease up the caliper bolts when you put them back in the rubber sleeves, then push the F caliper pistons back flush with a big C-clamp or something like it, so you can get the caliper back on the bracket. I was expecting the brake fluid level to rise in the master cylinder when the pistons are pushed in, but it didn't. The excess fluid hid somewhere else, and when I got it all reassembled and slowly pumped the brake pedal a few times to fill the system, the pedal got very hard up high, and the brakes were locked. Scared me good and proper! But when I went back to it the next morning, the pedal was relaxed, the brakes worked fine, and all was OK. Don't have a clue why this happened.

    The R brakes are pretty much the same deal, except there are spring clips on the back of one of the pads which slide into place on the piston. But the problem is that you can't retract the R pistons by pushing on them. They must be a screw type, and I don't know yet how to retract them. But they were only lightly worn (most pad wear is on the F pads) so I left them in for another 30K miles. Hope this helps!
  • nahag1nahag1 Posts: 10
    Thanks, that was a great help.
  • dctorontodctoronto Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    Hi everyone,

    We seem to be having the same problems as other posters in this discussion.

    Since day one brakes have been squeeky, but only when a touch wet and only in reverse, have to keep an eye on things when braking and now the car apparently either needs the rotors replaced or machined at approx 45,000 KM.

    The first thing is just annoying.

    The second thing might be a result of the thing we like best about our car, its responsive steering

    The third thing plain bugs us. Even though we are well within the 80,000 KM three year Basic Warranty the dealer, so far, is arguing brakes are only covered for 12 months or 20,000 KM. Unfortunately, the dealer is a bit unclear as to why this is the case and we cannot get a written answer out of them to support their position. Does anyone have any documentations from Mazda Canada or experience as to why this is the case as there is nothing specific in the warranty documentation that we can find.
  • dctorontodctoronto Posts: 2
    Dealer has gotten back to us and has explained why Mazda of Canada does not cover brakes beyond 12 months or 20,000 KM. According to them a rotor can only be damaged as a result of driver actions. Fair enough. Fortunately, the dealer has decided to take care of this as if it were warranty work. Big thank you to them. Hope others have similarly good dealings with their Mazda store of choice.
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    You should call Mazda and find out. Bumper to bumper includes brakes. Rotors can also warp because of manufacturer defects.
  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    I have an 08......... yes to the rust and the grooves wouldn't surprise me. Mine warped before 30,000.......... when its time it will be after market.

  • willsamwillsam Posts: 1
    Does anyone have an answer regarding how to get the piston to retract on the rear brakes? Do I need a special tool?
  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    I haven't done the 5's brakes yet although it will be pretty soon as badly warped as these rotors are but, typically a larger "c" clamp can be used to drive the piston back into the caliper.

  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    Just did the front rotors and pads............ getting those rotors are off is not for the feint of heart.

    Improved aftermarket IS the way to go!

    And no, the rear pistons don't slide....... they twist in.
    And those get done in a couple of weeks........ this is definetely not a Volkswagen.....

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