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The R brakes are pretty much the same deal, except there are spring clips on the back of one of the pads which slide into place on the piston. But the problem is that you can't retract the R pistons by pushing on them. They must be a screw type, and I don't know yet how to retract them. But they were only lightly worn (most pad wear is on the F pads) so I left them in for another 30K miles. Hope this helps!
:shades:
We seem to be having the same problems as other posters in this discussion.
Since day one brakes have been squeeky, but only when a touch wet and only in reverse, have to keep an eye on things when braking and now the car apparently either needs the rotors replaced or machined at approx 45,000 KM.
The first thing is just annoying.
The second thing might be a result of the thing we like best about our car, its responsive steering
The third thing plain bugs us. Even though we are well within the 80,000 KM three year Basic Warranty the dealer, so far, is arguing brakes are only covered for 12 months or 20,000 KM. Unfortunately, the dealer is a bit unclear as to why this is the case and we cannot get a written answer out of them to support their position. Does anyone have any documentations from Mazda Canada or experience as to why this is the case as there is nothing specific in the warranty documentation that we can find.
Larry
Larry
Improved aftermarket IS the way to go!
And no, the rear pistons don't slide....... they twist in.
And those get done in a couple of weeks........ this is definetely not a Volkswagen.....
Larry
Larry
obviously unhappy nothing was covered. We don't drive like teenagers, just a 40something couple. I'm thinking these rotors are just super thin?
I guess it wouldn't hurt to call Mazda, at least let them know their brakes stink. Hey wait a minute. isn't this the same vehicle as the Mazda3 in a lot of aspects? wouldn't the 3 have good rotors, because you expect people to drive like a teenager with the 3?
I think I will call Mazda and ask them what the setup is on the 3, and see if the brakes on the 3 last longer or not.
Anybody have a clue as to what is causing this? What should I do if I need another front brake job in another 30,000? I've owned many vehicles, and about the earliest I've ever had to do a brake job was 50k, maybe 60k.
I would expect pedal pulse any time with turned front rotors.
Good luck
Larry
The right rear only is making a grinding noise when braking, and at low speeds (coasting from a stop) even with no brakes applied. I took the wheel off and I can hear it when turning it by hand. The left wheel is dead quiet. Since the pads look fine, what else could it be?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Matt Cotton
Parsippany, NJ
They had no suggestion about the squeal that comes from the rear when backing up in damp weather but maybe the new rotors/pads will fix that too when the existing ones get replaced.
Just my 5 cents worth (inflation ya know)
At slow speeds the slowing down to a stop is not even though. It does feel like a like warped rotor (20k) but the high speed braking suggests a ball joint?
My 2010 @ 24k is pulsing really badly when braking at high speeds (the problem grew slowly) and stops choppy, as if the brake disk has a thinner and a thicker part, or square wheels. I followed the advise on this forum and bought two Reybestos advanced. I've done brakes before, but only twice rotors.
I took the wheel off just to see what's in there and saw that the disk is not held by a screw, but it is also not moving at all.
How do you take this thing off? Hammer? I hope not... Some have a screw whole to bolt in and push the disk out, but I don't remember seeing one....
Good luck!
Larry
Vibration is fixed, braking is better. The more disconcerting find was that I saw one of the tires being really worn on the inside only - camber issue or some alignment - !@#$%^&
I have never seen a car drive nicely straight after alignment. I just don't know of a good place to do this. I remember a Honda Accord (87) drove much better after I re-did the alignment myself with a measuring tape LOL.
ehhh
Just shocking that a Mazda 5 would have a Camber issue! (NOT!!)
I haven't done it in a few years but, 15 years ago and before the amateur sports car crowd did all of their own alignments with tape measures and strings. It IS doable - good luck!
Larry
But here's one thing I've notice: most of the time (but not always), it is almost sure that if we break while going uphill, the brakes wil make some noise. But if we brake while going downhill or on flat, it probably won't make any noise, IF we didn't previously brake while going uphill... Do you have any suggestion about what's going on?!
Thx!!
To say I'm disappointed with the 5 model is an understatement, and as to why this problem does not appear to have been looked into by Mazda is unknown, if it has, it would be good in my opinion to let 5 owner's know what their thoughts are, dealership's just look at you when the subject is brought up, and that has left me so frustrated, and I should add that in all my motoring years, I've never experienced squealing to the extent that my Mazda 5 has.
I'm so pleased a friend told me about this website.
Second: why let such a little thing as some brake noise ruin the entire car ownership experience for you? if you let such a minor thing like this bother you this much, you are in for a lifetime of horrible disappointment.
And, finally, my solution is that you replace the pads with a superior aftermarket set of pads. Odds are, if they are squealing that much, they are probably glazed. You could have the pads removed, scuffed up, and reinstalled, but there is little point to going through that trouble when replacements are so inexpensive compared to the labor involved.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I will go back to the dealership and talk to them again, the vehicle is not new so will ask also for a further check to be made.
I must add that I've been driving automatics for some time, but the dual gearbox on this 5 is something different and I have got used to it quite quickly, only one grump and that is, if one uses the gears manually whilst driving, dont foget to swtch back to auto before you stop, otherwise when the car pulls away it will not automatically move up from bottom gear!!
http://freecarsupport.com/diy-write-ups/2012/10/6/how-to-replace-brakes-on-a-201- 0-mazda-5
Just make sure you are turning it the right way. (i think clockwise, and I THINK it's clockwise on both left and right rear pistons.)
I bought my 2013 Mazda5 almost a year ago. I took it for an oil change at the dealer the other day and was told there was an oil leak and my front break pads needed to be replaced. I only have 16,000 miles on my car!!! I have owned 4 cars in my life and never had I needed to replace the brake pads so early on. I also drive a Chevy Tahoe and I don't remember the last time I had to replace the brakes. The service guy said it's probably the way I drive but I beg to differ. I've noticed since I first started driving the car that it takes quite a while to come to a complete stop. I just thought this was the way it was supposed to be since all cars are different. I've grown accustomed to how the car works now and just got used to it. But now that I just got my car back from getting new brake pads I am noticing that it still takes awhile for my car to come to a complete stop. On top of that I feel a slight grinding as I brake. I am a first time Mazda owner so I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue. Thanks for your help!
If you're seeing symptoms after the brake pads were changed, I'd go right back to the dealer and have them take a ride with you to demonstrate what it is you're seeing.
Hi, I'm a new Mazda5 owner - just bought a used 2012 from a Mazda dealer with 36000 miles about a week ago. Today, just as I was getting off the freeway, but as I was travelling at a good clip still, the car made a loud, high pitched sound (seemed to make a few times during the week when braking - but this time louder and longer, lasted for maybe 30 secs) and then went away... I was perplexed, but then I stopped at a stop light and white smoke started wafting from the rear passenger side back wheel. And then I opened the window and there was a very intense burning smell - kind of plastic-y but not totally. It eventually stopped smoking as I took off. I got home, called the dealer, brought it in and this is what they said:
Anyone have any ideas?
Sorry about the bold - I think my baby must have helped a bit while I was typing...
I have 130,000 miles on my 2006. I'm getting new rear pads and rotors for my 3rd time today, they seem to wear out at the same time.
The fronts I have done about 6 times, I lost count! I'm also on my 3rd set of wheels. The flimsy Mazda wheels were all hopelessly bent out of shape by about 36000 miles, the stylish replacements from Tire Rack lasted about 90000 miles more.
I live in a VERY hilly part of New Jersey and TRY to be very easy on the brakes, and the potholes (and pothole "repairs") are the worst you can imagine, and, unfortunately, I am good, but not 100% successful at avoiding them.
I am, frankly, amazed at how durable the car is. I have rust on the hood from stone chips and on both sides of the body ahead of each rear wheel well. Oh, and "Park" doesn't always engage, electronically, so it have to start the car in neutral. Maybe that's a simple adjustment, but I have removed the cover panel under the shift knob and cleaned it up.
Also day to day scuffs and scrapes on the black interior plastic are hard to disguise, it just looks worn and beat.
I will probably replace it with another Mazda5, because there is nothing else like it, and the new ones are much better equipped for not a lot more money than I spent 9 years ago, $24k now vs $20k back then.
Mazda has never really pushed these, though, and I've heard that 2015 will be the last year. Sad. My average over the years has been right on 25mpg. Not stellar, but acceptable.