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Mazda5 Brake Questions

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Comments

  • nahag1nahag1 Member Posts: 10
    Hey shaw63, after you jacked up the car and took out the tire, what did you use to unscrew the caliper? :confuse:
  • shawr63shawr63 Member Posts: 6
    There are two bolts which hold the caliper to the caliper mount bracket. I think maybe they are 10mm bolts, and they are hidden down in the little black rubber cylinders or sleeves sticking out the back of the caliper. As I remember you have to pull off a black rubber cap to expose the bolt head down in each cylinder. I used a deepwell socket to take them out, but a regular socket might well reach the heads also. After they are out, the caliper will lift off (maybe with a little prying with a tire iron or large screwdriver to get it by the edge of the rotor), and you can replace the pads easily from there. You don't have to unbolt the mount bracket. After that it's a good idea to grease up the caliper bolts when you put them back in the rubber sleeves, then push the F caliper pistons back flush with a big C-clamp or something like it, so you can get the caliper back on the bracket. I was expecting the brake fluid level to rise in the master cylinder when the pistons are pushed in, but it didn't. The excess fluid hid somewhere else, and when I got it all reassembled and slowly pumped the brake pedal a few times to fill the system, the pedal got very hard up high, and the brakes were locked. Scared me good and proper! But when I went back to it the next morning, the pedal was relaxed, the brakes worked fine, and all was OK. Don't have a clue why this happened.

    The R brakes are pretty much the same deal, except there are spring clips on the back of one of the pads which slide into place on the piston. But the problem is that you can't retract the R pistons by pushing on them. They must be a screw type, and I don't know yet how to retract them. But they were only lightly worn (most pad wear is on the F pads) so I left them in for another 30K miles. Hope this helps!
  • nahag1nahag1 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks, that was a great help.
    :shades:
  • dctorontodctoronto Member Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    Hi everyone,

    We seem to be having the same problems as other posters in this discussion.

    Since day one brakes have been squeeky, but only when a touch wet and only in reverse, have to keep an eye on things when braking and now the car apparently either needs the rotors replaced or machined at approx 45,000 KM.

    The first thing is just annoying.

    The second thing might be a result of the thing we like best about our car, its responsive steering

    The third thing plain bugs us. Even though we are well within the 80,000 KM three year Basic Warranty the dealer, so far, is arguing brakes are only covered for 12 months or 20,000 KM. Unfortunately, the dealer is a bit unclear as to why this is the case and we cannot get a written answer out of them to support their position. Does anyone have any documentations from Mazda Canada or experience as to why this is the case as there is nothing specific in the warranty documentation that we can find.
  • dctorontodctoronto Member Posts: 2
    Dealer has gotten back to us and has explained why Mazda of Canada does not cover brakes beyond 12 months or 20,000 KM. According to them a rotor can only be damaged as a result of driver actions. Fair enough. Fortunately, the dealer has decided to take care of this as if it were warranty work. Big thank you to them. Hope others have similarly good dealings with their Mazda store of choice.
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    You should call Mazda and find out. Bumper to bumper includes brakes. Rotors can also warp because of manufacturer defects.
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    I have an 08......... yes to the rust and the grooves wouldn't surprise me. Mine warped before 30,000.......... when its time it will be after market.

    Larry
  • willsamwillsam Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have an answer regarding how to get the piston to retract on the rear brakes? Do I need a special tool?
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    I haven't done the 5's brakes yet although it will be pretty soon as badly warped as these rotors are but, typically a larger "c" clamp can be used to drive the piston back into the caliper.

    Larry
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    Just did the front rotors and pads............ getting those rotors are off is not for the feint of heart.

    Improved aftermarket IS the way to go!

    And no, the rear pistons don't slide....... they twist in.
    And those get done in a couple of weeks........ this is definetely not a Volkswagen.....

    Larry
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    The $8.00 "universal" tool From your local parts store for turning the rear pistons back into the caliper will not fit the Mazda 5 pistons - save the $8.00.

    Larry
  • 73chevyimpala73chevyimpala Member Posts: 16
    we've had a shimmy feel when we apply brakes for a longtime, probably since 26,000 miles. finally took to local dealer where we bought car in '08(car is an '08) at 33,000 miles, needed front brake job, and resurface rotors.

    obviously unhappy nothing was covered. We don't drive like teenagers, just a 40something couple. I'm thinking these rotors are just super thin?

    I guess it wouldn't hurt to call Mazda, at least let them know their brakes stink. Hey wait a minute. isn't this the same vehicle as the Mazda3 in a lot of aspects? wouldn't the 3 have good rotors, because you expect people to drive like a teenager with the 3?

    I think I will call Mazda and ask them what the setup is on the 3, and see if the brakes on the 3 last longer or not.

    Anybody have a clue as to what is causing this? What should I do if I need another front brake job in another 30,000? I've owned many vehicles, and about the earliest I've ever had to do a brake job was 50k, maybe 60k.
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    I am SHOCKED that the rotors had enough metal to be turned. Yes, the brakes SUCK. I did all 4 rotors and the pads at 33,000. As I said earlier, upgraded ALL of it and I am VERY happy. The rear OEM rotors aren't even vented.

    I would expect pedal pulse any time with turned front rotors.

    Good luck

    Larry
  • grwsjgrwsj Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the fronts about 10k miles ago. Rears were fine. They still have more than 1/8 inch. The rotors look normal (I think... no scoring, just wear).

    The right rear only is making a grinding noise when braking, and at low speeds (coasting from a stop) even with no brakes applied. I took the wheel off and I can hear it when turning it by hand. The left wheel is dead quiet. Since the pads look fine, what else could it be?
  • shawr63shawr63 Member Posts: 6
    The rear pistons are screw type, and can't be pushed in. They can be retracted with a Mazda tool, but my local mechanic doesn't bother - he just inserts the tips of a needlenose and starts turning! He has the tool but doesn't bother with it. So this should make life a lot simpler for all of us! He also says you don't have to bleed the brakes during retraction. I did have a little pad drag and cold squeaking with the new pads but he says this is normal and will go away. There is no separate adjustment of the handbrake, according to him.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,863
    Yes. That is all correct.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • njsimcanjsimca Member Posts: 6
    I have exactly the same problem. I did think, however, that that right rear rotor was badly scored, but I am not an expert. What did you finally do about it?
    Matt Cotton
    Parsippany, NJ
  • petesmazda5petesmazda5 Member Posts: 12
    I got sick and tired of replacing front rotors because of warpage. I talked to someone in my area with a M5 and he sent me to a local garage that races Mazdas and does general repairs. They recommended Raybestos rotors and pads (I may even do the back with the same brand eventually) and have had no warpage or scoring, plus I like the feel of the brakes better now also.

    They had no suggestion about the squeal that comes from the rear when backing up in damp weather but maybe the new rotors/pads will fix that too when the existing ones get replaced.

    Just my 5 cents worth (inflation ya know)
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    I have a slight pulse in the steering wheel when braking light at 65MPh, but no pulsing in the pedal.
    At slow speeds the slowing down to a stop is not even though. It does feel like a like warped rotor (20k) but the high speed braking suggests a ball joint?
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    I tried the above by intuition today, but didn't succeed. I turned the piston with needlenose pliers dozens of turns, but I don't think I made any progress getting it retracted at all. Any further clues? I've got it put back together now with the old worn pads -- luckily only 2/3rds or so it turns out -- so at least I've got time to educate myself
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    I figured it all out and can now answer my own questions. Yes, the above comment about the cheap little universal caliper retraction tool not fitting MZ5 applied to my 2006 also. I needed a two-peg one, with the pegs as close together and skinny as the tool's side that had 4 pegs. The solution turned out to be the $60 caliper tool kit from the local O'Reillys which is fully refundable before 48 hrs. This kit contains a serious threaded rod 6" long which can press things apart as forcefully as a big C-clamp can push things together, with the business end pegged like the cheap universal tool, and turned by the threaded rod. This tool worked like a charm in less than a minute, and did not require breaking open the brake fluid line to relieve any pressure. I had it back to the parts store and my money back less than an hour later.
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    hello boys and girls,
    My 2010 @ 24k is pulsing really badly when braking at high speeds (the problem grew slowly) and stops choppy, as if the brake disk has a thinner and a thicker part, or square wheels. I followed the advise on this forum and bought two Reybestos advanced. I've done brakes before, but only twice rotors.
    I took the wheel off just to see what's in there and saw that the disk is not held by a screw, but it is also not moving at all.
    How do you take this thing off? Hammer? I hope not... Some have a screw whole to bolt in and push the disk out, but I don't remember seeing one....
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    Yep!! I found heating it up with a torch and then giving it a good whack did the trick. Yes, it is a bit un-nerving. Welcome to the world of Mazda!

    Good luck!

    Larry
  • vicenacvicenac Member Posts: 229
    edited August 2011
    Thanks! A light double tap set them loose.
    Vibration is fixed, braking is better. The more disconcerting find was that I saw one of the tires being really worn on the inside only - camber issue or some alignment - !@#$%^&
    I have never seen a car drive nicely straight after alignment. I just don't know of a good place to do this. I remember a Honda Accord (87) drove much better after I re-did the alignment myself with a measuring tape LOL.
    ehhh
  • larry8061larry8061 Member Posts: 37
    Glad to hear it worked!

    Just shocking that a Mazda 5 would have a Camber issue! (NOT!!)

    I haven't done it in a few years but, 15 years ago and before the amateur sports car crowd did all of their own alignments with tape measures and strings. It IS doable - good luck!

    Larry
  • vincent_bvincent_b Member Posts: 1
    Hi! We just bought a 2008 Mazda 5. Of course, we have the braking noise... It's been going on for a month, so we brought the car to the garage and they replaced the front pads (even though we thought the noise was coming from the back, but then again...). That was two days ago, and we still have braking noise...

    But here's one thing I've notice: most of the time (but not always), it is almost sure that if we break while going uphill, the brakes wil make some noise. But if we brake while going downhill or on flat, it probably won't make any noise, IF we didn't previously brake while going uphill... Do you have any suggestion about what's going on?!

    Thx!!
  • sim6sim6 Member Posts: 2
    edited November 2011
    Hi. I've recently acquired a Mazda 5 auto, this after having two of the Premacy models, my last one I'd have for many, many years, and just recently on reversing only I noticed this awful squealing!! This shocked me as I've only had the vehicle a few months, and on making enquries I was told it was caused by condensation, and the noise is made worse because of the alloy wheels?
    To say I'm disappointed with the 5 model is an understatement, and as to why this problem does not appear to have been looked into by Mazda is unknown, if it has, it would be good in my opinion to let 5 owner's know what their thoughts are, dealership's just look at you when the subject is brought up, and that has left me so frustrated, and I should add that in all my motoring years, I've never experienced squealing to the extent that my Mazda 5 has.
    I'm so pleased a friend told me about this website.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,863
    First question: is it only the first time you back up after the car has been sitting? that is the only time you should/would have any noise (even if you went straight ahead, the first time you apply the brakes for the day will usually result in some sort of noise).

    Second: why let such a little thing as some brake noise ruin the entire car ownership experience for you? if you let such a minor thing like this bother you this much, you are in for a lifetime of horrible disappointment.

    And, finally, my solution is that you replace the pads with a superior aftermarket set of pads. Odds are, if they are squealing that much, they are probably glazed. You could have the pads removed, scuffed up, and reinstalled, but there is little point to going through that trouble when replacements are so inexpensive compared to the labor involved.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    Is it possible this is your first car with disc brakes in the rear as well as the front? The other commenter mentioning "first thing on driving" may be getting at the tendency of brake discs to get rust spots while standing parked, if the wheels get splashed with water. This corrosion is completely harmless but does make some scraping noises during the first brake application after leaving your parking spot. If the above is not the case with your Mazda, if it is brand new I think you have something you should have your dealer service department inspect. If your car was bought used, you may be experiencing the effects of a poor and/or wrongly-done brake job, and an inspection is all the more important.
  • sim6sim6 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply to my first message on this site. Today there was a very early start with lots of condensation about, and on reversing 'early morning' there was the squeal back again!
    I will go back to the dealership and talk to them again, the vehicle is not new so will ask also for a further check to be made.
    I must add that I've been driving automatics for some time, but the dual gearbox on this 5 is something different and I have got used to it quite quickly, only one grump and that is, if one uses the gears manually whilst driving, dont foget to swtch back to auto before you stop, otherwise when the car pulls away it will not automatically move up from bottom gear!!
  • flgmtech1flgmtech1 Member Posts: 2
    I did not see any further issues listed other then the 2 about the brake pedal fading or what felt like the lack or resistance, has anyone on here had this issue and had it diagnosed by a Mazda Dealer that actually fixed this issue? My wife had it happen today and one other time about a month ago, very intermittant, the front Brake pads are New Mazda OEM parts installed last month, and the rears are original still good shape all 4 rotors have been replaced in the last year, due to warpage and vibration, and the fluid is full with no signs of any hydraulic leaks at any wheel the master cylinder the ABS Unit or anywhere on the lines or fittings, but it feels like either the primary or secondary piston in the master cylinder is bypassing the seal intermittantly causin g the brake fade whereby the pedal feels soft and if you place the vehicle in park shut the car off, and repeatedly pump the pedal to deplete all vacuum, the pedal gets high and hard, and then the car stops fine and the pedal feels great, has ANYONE had this happen?? If so, what if anything have you had done to address or repair this issue? Any help would be much appreciated, thank you.
  • staypuftstaypuft Member Posts: 6
    Brake pulsation here as well, but it is so slight that I just plan to live with it until the pads wear down. Going to replace with aftermarket brakes when the time comes.
  • mcookotmcookot Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2010 Mazda 5 with 37000 miles. I have had to replace the ABS Control Unit twice now. The first time it was under warrantee, and this time it should be covered by my extended warrantee. It is a safety issue, besides the deductible I have to pay this time around, as the car is unsafe to drive when the fluid is leaking out of the unit. Has anyone else had this issue? It worries me that I have had this problem with 2 units now-- what is to keep it from happening again? I am thinking of complaining to Mazda but not sure how to contact them.
  • freecarsupportfreecarsupport Member Posts: 1
    Check out this link to see a write up on how to replace your brakes on your mazda 5!

    http://freecarsupport.com/diy-write-ups/2012/10/6/how-to-replace-brakes-on-a-201- 0-mazda-5
  • buhddybuhddy Member Posts: 1
    I just used needlenose pliers to fit into the holes. I did rent the universal kit from ORielly's, but they didn't have an attachment for the Mazda. The needle nose trick works great.
    Just make sure you are turning it the right way. (i think clockwise, and I THINK it's clockwise on both left and right rear pistons.)
  • whobodymwhobodym Member Posts: 190
    I take it you're talking about getting the rear caliper pistons to retract far enough in, that the thick new brake pads will fit, right? I've tried needle-nose pliers on my MZ5 and found it quite difficult. The universal kit from my O'Reilly's does work -- without sticking in any of the adaptor dealies at all -- the basic tool had the right two prongs in it and would turn the piston like a champ
  • davichodavicho Member Posts: 190
    Mine has done this a couple of times. The first time I had my complete brake system flushed and therefore bled which fixed the issue for a month. Now I just got it bled again because the pedal again went to the floor before grabbing. This time I had it looked at Romero Mazda but they didnt find anything wrong with the system and no leaks at all. Since mine is MT I had them bleed the system again and also bledd the hydraulics on the clutch system since both systems share the same brake fluid reservoir. Pedal feels good and normal again. We will see how it fares in the coming weeks or days. It is as if the system gets air in the system from somewhere. Did you figure this issue out? I am suspecting bad master cylinder but I don't want to start throwing money at it blindly...although I may have to... :(
  • luna04luna04 Member Posts: 1

    I bought my 2013 Mazda5 almost a year ago. I took it for an oil change at the dealer the other day and was told there was an oil leak and my front break pads needed to be replaced. I only have 16,000 miles on my car!!! I have owned 4 cars in my life and never had I needed to replace the brake pads so early on. I also drive a Chevy Tahoe and I don't remember the last time I had to replace the brakes. The service guy said it's probably the way I drive but I beg to differ. I've noticed since I first started driving the car that it takes quite a while to come to a complete stop. I just thought this was the way it was supposed to be since all cars are different. I've grown accustomed to how the car works now and just got used to it. But now that I just got my car back from getting new brake pads I am noticing that it still takes awhile for my car to come to a complete stop. On top of that I feel a slight grinding as I brake. I am a first time Mazda owner so I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue. Thanks for your help! :)

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372

    If you're seeing symptoms after the brake pads were changed, I'd go right back to the dealer and have them take a ride with you to demonstrate what it is you're seeing.

  • vaniajovaniajo Member Posts: 2

    Hi, I'm a new Mazda5 owner - just bought a used 2012 from a Mazda dealer with 36000 miles about a week ago. Today, just as I was getting off the freeway, but as I was travelling at a good clip still, the car made a loud, high pitched sound (seemed to make a few times during the week when braking - but this time louder and longer, lasted for maybe 30 secs) and then went away... I was perplexed, but then I stopped at a stop light and white smoke started wafting from the rear passenger side back wheel. And then I opened the window and there was a very intense burning smell - kind of plastic-y but not totally. It eventually stopped smoking as I took off. I got home, called the dealer, brought it in and this is what they said:

    • New brake pads, so not that.
    • All mazda brakes squeak, so don't worry.
    • Could have been the emergency brake - but it wasn't that.
    • They could smell the smell, but could find nothing wrong.

    Anyone have any ideas?

  • vaniajovaniajo Member Posts: 2

    Sorry about the bold - I think my baby must have helped a bit while I was typing...

  • njsimcanjsimca Member Posts: 6
    I think the brakes are a bit lightweight for a car this heavy, especially if they are the same as on the lighter Mazda3. 
    I have 130,000 miles on my 2006. I'm getting new rear pads and rotors for my 3rd time today, they seem to wear out at the same time.
    The fronts I have done about 6 times, I lost count! I'm also on my 3rd set of wheels. The flimsy Mazda wheels were all hopelessly bent out of shape by about 36000 miles, the stylish replacements from Tire Rack lasted about 90000 miles more.
    I live in a VERY hilly part of New Jersey and TRY to be very easy on the brakes, and the potholes (and pothole "repairs") are the worst you can imagine, and, unfortunately, I am good, but not 100% successful at avoiding them.
    I am, frankly, amazed at how durable the car is. I have rust on the hood from stone chips and on both sides of the body ahead of each rear wheel well. Oh, and "Park" doesn't always engage, electronically, so it have to start the car in neutral. Maybe that's a simple adjustment, but I have removed the cover panel under the shift knob and cleaned it up.
    Also day to day scuffs and scrapes on the black interior plastic are hard to disguise, it just looks worn and beat.
    I will probably replace it with another Mazda5, because there is nothing else like it, and the new ones are much better equipped for not a lot more money than I spent 9 years ago, $24k now vs $20k back then.
    Mazda has never really pushed these, though, and I've heard that 2015 will be the last year. Sad. My average over the years has been right on 25mpg. Not stellar, but acceptable.
  • njsimcanjsimca Member Posts: 6
    If you shift into "2", the car won't roll backwards, but it is much harder to get going up a hill in "2".

     cecily said:
    I live in hilly San Francisco, and find my automatic 2007 Mazda 5 and have great difficulty w/ my car rolling backwards when in gear. When I'm stopped at a traffic light on a hill, if I remove my foot from the foot brake to begin acceleration, the car will roll back indefinitely until I am able to apply the gas enough to get the car moving forward. My previous car was a manual transmission, so I'm new to an automatic, but this strikes me as incredibly odd and unsafe. I'm forced to use both feet when accelerating from a stand still on a hill, keeping one foot on the brake, while accelerating w/ the right foot until there's enough speed to send the car forward. Is this common on the model, or just a fluke w/ my car? Has anyone has luck getting this remedied?
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