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GMC Yukon Small Problems and Aggravations

tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
Radio knob missing? Glove compartment door stuck? Paint peeling? This is the place to discuss those problems and irritations that don't impact safety and operation of your Yukon.


  • I bought my '07 Yukon in June, clock has been missing for months now, Dealer has no info, can't find a fix online. Any help?? Thanks
  • Have an MP3 disk in the CD player? Remove it, wait a while (an hour or less with the truck off) and viola the clock will reappear. Apparently if you have a disk with too many MP3's on it (there is a limit in the manual, it's somewhere around 300 songs I think) it takes the memory for the clock or kills the clock somehow. Don't worry the clock will return after the disk is removed. I have reproduced this a few times and now don't load a disk with lots of MP3s on it. It may take a little while after you install the disk for the clock to disappear. Let us know if this was the issue. GM probably needs a software update for the Nav radio to prevent this from occurring.

    -- Gregg
    Boston, Mass
  • I have about 4000 miles on the vehicle. About one month after I bought it i was washing it one day and I had the radio on for about 45 minutes. I went to move the yukon and the battery was dead. I took it to the dealer where I had baught it from and they checked the alternator and battery and it all checked out fine. They told me they could not replace anything unless it tested bad. About a month later the same thing happen so I took it to another dealership and they also said they couldn't find nothing wrong with it. I payed 39000 dollars for the vehicle and I shouldn't have this problem with this yukon. Both times I made sure the key was in the auxillary position. Does anyone have any suggestion about my problem. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


    Dustin Harvey
  • awf_axisawf_axis Posts: 136
    I have an '07 Escalade, and have the similar issue. If you watch a movie (while in acc position), or just play the stereo for a CD or two, dead battery. Also, I was able to determine that if I press the "Load All CDs" option, but only load 1 or 2, the CD drive motor will keep running until the battery dies. (The "Load All" is when you hold the "Load CD" button down for 5 seconds, and it beeps. It keeps accepting CD after CD without re-pushing the button). Same for Eject, (without running down the battery). Pushing the Eject for 5 seconds will cause it to spit out all the CD's in one session.

    Anyway, there must be something wrong with the computer's "run-down" protection, because it doesn't preserve the battery very well. Also, once a battery (starter type, not deep cycle) has been run down, it's reserve and life cycle is reduced greatly.

    I have a feeling that the BOSE system, with AMP's is just too much for the battery system. It must draw a ton of juice.

    I've now had 3 dead batteries, and 2 near failures. I used the GM roadside for one incident, while camping.

    Dealer would not do anything about it. Also, it said the battery was not damaged enough for replacement. But its weak.

  • Hi folks, I just purchased this truck about a month ago and love it so far. I have noticed a strange popping sound that seems to be coming from the heater on two occasions now, almost like popping the lid off a can of pringles or something, has anyone else noticed this? thanks.
  • My '07 Denali RainSense windshield wiper does seem to work properly. Besides no adjustment on the level of sensitivity, it does not work consistently during driving under raining condition.

    Does anyone have similar experience?
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Dave, in all fairness, listen to a CD equates to about an hour of battery usage... When you have the ignition key turned to ACC, not only your Stereo system is on, but also all other electronic devices that are tied to that circuit are draining the battery as well. I am with you about the Battery Run Down Protection System can be improved, at the same time we can do a number of things on our own to save ourselves hassles. Best Wish.

    Oh BTW, the batteries that are in our cars are generally not Deep Cycle batteries, so, a few discharge and recharge cycles will decrease a battery life by a huge percentage.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    princetonriver, my 07 Yukon Denali RainSense at first had the same problem like your's, not working consistently. I later found out the problem was with the Rain Sensor Unit (a small black square box next to the center rearview mirror) was loose, not tightly against the windshield. It was caused (sorry I am not sure how to describe this exactly... but here I go) by the loose plastic "slider", which can be pushed Up in to (or dwon from) the overhead lining to secure the sensor again the windshield. After I done that, the system has been working 99.9%. As far as the sensitivity adjustment, I thought its related to the wiper delay (interval) adjustment, the shorter the delay interval the more sensitive it is... I could be wrong as I only had my Denali for a couple of weeks, still in my "smelling the new car" period, LOL. Hope your's is as easy to fix as mine, good luck!
  • I have the exact same battery problem with my 2007 Yukon and I bought it in June. We had this problem the day we brought it home. We were listening to the radio for only about 20 minutes (with the key out of the ignition) and when we went to start the car, it was dead. GM roadside sent someone out to jump start it (after waiting about an hour), but we have had this exact problem at least 4 times since then up to about a week ago. The dealer replaced the battery, but that did not seem to fix the problem. We are afraid to turn the car off sometimes because we do not know if it will turn back on. (The car still dies after less than 20 minutes of battery use, and sometimes even no real use of the battery). This really is a great car, and many other people that have it have little to no problems, but the amount of problems we have had since June with our car is really worrying me. :lemon:

    Whenever the car "dies" and we jump start it to get it back going, the check engine light, transmission, and tire pressure monitoring system all show failures. One of the times this happened, we did an OnStar remote diagnostics by pressing our blue OnStar button. They saw all of the problems the car was reporting to me, and more. When we took the car to the dealer the next day, the failure lights eventually turned off. Luckily OnStar sent the dealer a report of what was going wrong with the car (because the car was now reporting no issues). The dealer, however, was not able to find anything wrong with the vehicle, even with the OnStar report. When we were supposed to pick the car up at 4:00 PM that day, they went to start the car and could not get it to start. They then replaced the battery, which seemed promising, but we still have the same problem.

    The people at the dealership right now are doing all they can do. The service person I work with told me that this may be an issue with using remote start (because he said that drains the battery). -- My kind response to that is - 1. we rarely ever use remote start, and 2. remote start is something that is built into the car by GM, so it should be serviced by them. If there is a problem with the remote start system in the cars they put it in, they need to fix the problem and recall all of the cars that have it.

    The remote start was not an add on, it came directly from the factory. Blaming the problem on remote start is almost like blaming something on cruse control. I mean, you can drive with your foot on the peddle as much as you can turn on your car with the key in the ignition -- but why not put cruse control on, or start the car remotely from your key chain? These were all installed by the manufacturer, so they should support any and all issues with it.

    If anybody from GM is reading this, why not address any and all major issues with your 2007 Yukon, Suburban, Escalade, and Tahoe now before they are even bigger issues in the 2008 and later models.

    We have 3 newer GM SUV's right now, but because of the experiences we have had with the 2007 Yukon (in customer service at our original dealership- which we have now left, our new dealer is ok - and with the vehicle itself), this will be our last one until some issues are resolved.
  • I have a 01 YUKON XL that has a ghost in the electrical system. The locks randemly lock and unlock on their own while driving and parked. The factory alarm or panic system will occationally go off as well and will do so for hours. The keyless remote has not been unlocking the secondary doors at times and will only unlock the drivers. I pulled the battery from the remote to see if there was a problem with that and the problem still persisted. Does anyone have any suggestions? I do have an extended warrenty but Im unclear if it will cover this issue.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Electrical problems are not always easy to locate. I would suggest if your 01 Yukon is with all OEM equipment (no add-on after market devices) the sooner you bring it back to your GMC Service Department the better, as your extended warranty is ticking away each day goes by... Good Luck!
  • We have a 97 gmc yukon, great vehicle until lately. We are on our second battery in 6 wks. when we try to start the vehicle it is absolutely dead. when you open the door to get in to try to start it, there is a faint ticking sound the moment you open the door, without the key in the ignition. the ignition switch appears to be in the off position, we don't find that lights have been left on, sometimes a jump start works but only once and at that time we must replace the battery. someone must know what is shorting out our batteries. our mechanic says the alternator and starter checkout fine. the cd player recently stopped working, gives an "err" message when we try to play cd's. any suggestions?
  • gmcguy03gmcguy03 Posts: 1
    unlocking front doors, & not the back 2 or hatch? I had it too. I checked the fuses in the drivers end of the dash & there is 2 square black small block looking fuses.One is for locking, & other for unlock. I swapped them with each other, & there it was. Dont change just one, it worked for 2 or 3 days. Change both & enjoy the back opening again, lol. I was frustrated. Oreilly had the fuse for 15.00 a piece, where Autozone was 28.00 a piece. Good luck buddy!
  • mcj318mcj318 Posts: 3
    I also have experienced this problem in my 2007 Denali. After letting my 3mo XM satellite radio expire, I was renewing, which requires the radio to run for 15-20 min while the satellite sends info to my vehicle. After about 20 min with radio on (key out of ignition)I tried to start my vehicle and it was a no go. Totally dead battery. Lucky I was just in driveway and was able to put charger on battery. Took to dealer and battery tested OK. Told me about all the electronics that run with key in ACC, which I was aware of. Only problem is that only radio was on (I even turned the fan off) with key out of ignition. Since, I have experimented with how long the battery will last before dying. Seems like 15-20 min will do it. Obviously the run down protection system is worthless since the thing won't even turn over with 15 min of radio listening. If anyone has had a smart dealer mechanic figure out what the problem is or come up with a good solution to the problem (other than not listening to the radio) please post. This is very annoying and would really stink if it happened somewhere other than my driveway. I also now have a battery that likely is weak, but not weak enough to test bad at the dealer. I'm just waiting for it to go out in the middle of my next family vacation. Mark
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    There has been a recall by GM with ID #07007, which is about the Battery Rundown Protection basically to re-program the on-board BCM and a number of other modules on your Denali. I had mine done by my dealership, it only took about an hour. You may want to have your's done if not already, so you can verify the fix before your next family vacation. Best Wish!!
  • mcj318mcj318 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info, it is going in ASAP for the "fix" (hopefully). The dealership should have caught this recall the first time around. It is nice to go in armed with info this time around.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    No problem.
    Below is the exact description of the fix on my recall service receipt (just found it in my folder last night...):

    Not sure if you are a registered member of the "My GMLink". If you register (totally free) then enter your Yukon VIN number, it will tell you about any existing recall for your particular vehicle. The register, visit:
  • I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who thinks this Yukon is crap. I purchased my truck in October 2006 and since I have jumped started it 5 times, everything rattles in it. The back panel on the lift gate is coming completely a part and for some reason the radio, onstar system, dvd player door chimes etc. stop working at various times. I have gone to the dealership over and over to be told everything checks out fine. I will never buy GM AGAIN. The sad part is the dealership does not seem to be too concerned. I have gone to 2 dealerships only to be told "The battery is good" and the radio works. Does anyone know why this is happening(battery and shortage on radio/onstar/dvd)? There are no recalls in Houston, Texas related to these problems

    K. Johnson
  • wbmcowanwbmcowan Posts: 1
    I had the recall done on my 2007 yukon xl after it wouldn't start and the rear cargo door would not open. 3 weeks later it has done the same thing. Both times I have had it towed to a dealer. The first time it happened the vehicle had be shut off and locked for 30 minutes. The second time it was shut off for 4 minutes. Rear cargo door won't open and the vehicle will not start. I have a hard time believing the battery went dead in that period of time with no acc. on.
  • nortonjconortonjco Posts: 1

    I have an 02 Yukon with a very similar problem.. Did you ever get yours fixed? If so, can you tell me what they/you found and how you fixed it?

    Thank you
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Oh wow! Sorry to hear that. I spoke with my dealership about your encounter of the situations after your recall repair... I was told that the re-programming of the modules may not have done correctly/properly (the mechanic needs to make sure that the re-programming was accepted and done successfully by the on-board modules, otherwise he/she needs to re-program the modules again...).
  • We are the owners of a 2005 Yukon SLT. We absolutely love it. The DVD player works flawlessly but the wireless headphones don't. The video continues to play but the headphones quick working after ~5mins. I have replaced the batteries in the headphones and tried again. But Both sets of wireless headphones quite at exactly the same time...after a few minutes. I am suspecting it may be a problem with the infra red message being sent out from the DVD player. I am hoping someone else has figured out or at least encountered this problem before. Please send a response if you can shed some light on this problem. Thanks to all.
  • Dustin,
    I had the same exact problem and took it to the dealer and got the same answers. I fixed the problem though. I replaced the stock battery with a DieHard SUV battery that has twice the amps as the stock battery. I have yet to have this problem arise again. Also if you really want to beef up you battery problem, the 2007 yukon is set up to carry 2 batteries, an addition area is the flat metal battery plate on the drivers side. You can purchse a cable kit which is around $50 which runs the batteries in paralles. This space was put her because gmc has plans to place a diesel engine which require more amps to start. I havn't put this on mine but my neighbor is a fire chief with the same vehicle and was outfitted with the second battery. He has been able to run the stereo and all of the emergency lights for over 4 hours with the engine off.

    Hope this helps.

    Steve Miller
  • jvciijvcii Posts: 1
    My 2000 Yukon's ignition is locked and the security light is blinking. The steering wheel is locked and the key will not turn in the ignition. How do I get the security system to disengage so that I can turn the key in the ignition and start the car? This latest issue is the worst of a string of related problems.

    The wireless opener failed a long time ago. Then, I could not open any car doors with the key - except the hatch. When I opened the hatch, the alarm would sound but I could start the car with the key and it would turn off. The mechanic fixed the car so that the driver's side door would open with the key but the alarm would sound. This wasn't so bad since I could start the car with the key and disengage the alarm. Over the last month the horn failed. Now I have this problem. A quick response would really help, since I don't want to pay to have the car towed. Thanks.
  • jummsjumms Posts: 2
    Denali. It came with xm radio Navigation system, but the cd did not come with it. Is there a way for me to get the for cheaper than what I would have to pay from the dealership?

  • Your best bet is on Ebay, I got mine for $90 after the dealership told me $600. Also you can check or
  • Steve - What can you tell me about the cable kit to run the batteries in parallel ?
    Where'd he find it? Homemade or pre-packaged? etc. Thanks.

    I asked at the dealership's service department today about the problem - they agreed that battery use life is short, but the parts department said GM had no auxiliarly battery set-up or adaptor kit.

  • Arnie,
    Sorry to get back to you late on this one. The kits can be purchased online or can easily be fabbed up at most custom car shops. The kits online are usually sold for RV's since they pull a lot of amps. I looked online and had a hard time finding one. Here is how the wiring system went. A second battery is added on the right side where the flat plate is at. The bracket that holds down the stock battery can be made to fit here to hold a second battery which you can purchase the bracket at the dealer.(Even though a kit is not sold for the dual battery you can hold it down here) A red positive cable is run from the second batterys positive terminal to the primary battery (stock one) positive terminal. A black negetive cable is run from the secondary battery's negetive terminal to the primary battery's negetive terminal. The original primary negetive lead cable then is spliced and re-run to connect to the secondary batteries negetive terminal. This type of wiring system can be installed at some car audio stores because some stereos require a lot of power to run everything. Unless you are an electrician I would recommend taking it somewhere to make sure it is wired correctly.

  • Steve - Thanks ! In the meantime I've checked around and found that there are a number of ways to solve the problem. Your approach sounds good. There are a number of isolator systems too, from good ol' JCWhitney to high-end systems with indicator lights and toggles. And then I could just pay the bucks and go to a gell-coil (Optima) battery.
    Haven't decided what to do yet; right now I'm just making sure the lights are off and the key is out.
    Thanks again.

  • I have an 03 Yukon and the ignition switch at times seems to be sticking.
    When you first start the vehicle and you turn it over and then let the ignition key
    turn back to the original position the starter is still turning over. Happens at
    least twice a week. It will stop and then you can turn the key over again and the engine will start. Can anyone help me with this?
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