I had the same problem as yours. Engine rev up and down when stopped at traffic light. I took my 04 odyssey to my mechanist and he replaced Air Idle Control Valve. I've never had this problem again. Hope this helps you.
In June, I bought a pre-owned 05 Odyssey. Almost as soon as we brought it home, the engine would occasionally race when stopped at stop signs. I took it back a couple of times and the dealer claimed there was no problem. The last time we took it in, we left it there for two weeks. One of the reasons that we bought the car in June was so that we could take it on a cross country trip. Well.....the car stayed at the dealer while we rented a car for the trip!! The dealer claims there was nothing wrong and that they didn't fix anything. In that case, the car healed itself as it hasn't had engine racing since August. I hope your car does the same.
I have an '05 EXL RES/NAV with 131,000 miles. Has been an awesome vehicle. I am wondering how it will fair to 200,000 miles plus? Basically trying to decide whether to trade now. Any comments?
Did you ever find out what the problem was? My 07 does the same thing at about 1800rpm when the ECO kicks in. One dealer mechanic unhooked the ECO and we test drove it and couldn't get to do it again. So it's something to do with the ECO. The mechanic told me he thinks that when the ECO kicks in and your running on 3 cylinders that there is fuel leaking into the 3 cylinders not running and they are trying to fire. I have been to 3 dealers no one knows what is causing it or which direction to go. This all started when they did the update for the torque convertor that i had no problem with in the first place. Then the convertor went out. After that they replaced a rear motor mount. That didn't help. So here I'm with about 56,000 miles still with the problem.
Mine doesn't have the ECO. I found the problem on the same day when I purchased a car, but most people have the problem after the software update. You need to replace a transmission torque converter. Some people still have the problem after the replacement of the transmission torque converter. I am one of them. I think the chip set which controls the timing of a shift to the 5th level is not set correctly or the ratio/combination between an engine and a transmission is something wrong. In this case, we may need to replace a chip set or an entire transmission system I think, but I don't know whether or not Honda has developed the process to do these. I visited three different dealers seven times. Mine is an on-going problem. I reported to the BBB AutoLine. I attended a BBB hearing session and I am now waiting for the decision from the BBB AutoLine.
I'm going to take mine back every 1000 miles to build my case. That way they should fix it when they finally decide to tell us what the problem is. I did this with my 2002 van on a transmission problem. I kept documenting it everytime I went in for anything. At 80,000 it went out and they fixed it with no cost to me. But in all honesty this may be my last honda. Also my mileage has dropped down to about 22 mpg on the highway. When I first got this van I got as high as 29mpg on the highway about 27 mpg most of the time. I don't know how much money that has cost me in the last 30,000 miles. Just guessing I would say $800-$900 dollars. I think I'll take it back this week then try and call an area rep. like that will help.
Hi, Mine is 2008 Honda Odyssey EX. I started having the same problem as yours about RPM jump during downshift at about same speed and same magnitude of RPM. They recently replaced the power stearing pump, resorvoirs and torque converter but RPM problem is still there with erratic downshift. :confuse: Also, i see the vibration at between 40-60MPH in top gear with RPM of about 1500, it's like groaning noise.
I am curious to know, what you did to fix this problems..??? Did you ever got that fixed. Can you please reply. Any help would appreciated.
Still have the problem. What kind of mileage do you get? If your mileage drops they say that's because the convertor isn't working right. I think the convertor the replaced is no good. But that shouldn't cause the engine to knock and vibrate. I'm just going to keep taking it in so it's well documented. Like i did with the 2002 that had tranny problem and gave out at 80,000. They fixed that at no cost.
My 2002 Odyssey(84000 miles) engine failed without any warning. We have had oil changed 3-4 weeks ago in Wolfchase Honda TN, shortly after this, the engine dead. The van was towed to this dealer again(This is a wrong decision) and the dealer switched their conclusion more than 4 times, they told us you can only spend 1200$ to get it fixed, then 4000$ rebuild an old engine, then don't need this, only 1300$, we agree with the 1300$, then they called us again, your van still need 4000$ rebuild an old engine. At last, we decided to sell our van to another dealer, they left the engine opened and did not put the parts back! This is not professional way at all ! My van has not had any accident and any repair history, so we are not happy with the engine dead without any warning. We asked the American Honda to send the District Manager to take a look and at least we can get the second opinion, it is very dangerous that the van was dead suddenly on the road without any warning. The case manager refused this and he said he only stand behind the Warranty and the dealer's decision (but not the customer). I am so disappointed to hear this. I said I did not ask for any refund, just the responsible way for the entire Honda’s customer, he refused this from the beginning to the end!!! Please let me know if you guys have some good suggestion! !
It surely got better after I took it to the dealer. According to them they upgraded firmware and replaced the torque converter. It was really smooth right out of the dealer but after about 4 months it seems like it might be creeping back in. I hope it stops degrading at this level because it is acceptable at this point.
I do know other people from earlier posts that had the same work done but did not help. Hope your dealer looks at closer it definitely looks like a transmission issue which is covered by the power train warranty.
They gave me the sun and moon aligned story .... which was gas was in the manifold starting the car caused combustion and enough gas that did not dissipate after the engine stop caused it. Ok now for what Honda did. they did not cover repair under the warranty because the manifold was not part of the engine it is just the cover. Bunch of cra.. anyway I had to use insurance to cover the expenses. But so far about 5 months it seems to be ok. keeping my fingers crossed.
i have an 02 odyssey that is revving between 1000 and 2000 rpm at idle. i replaced the iac valve and no difference. also tried to nail down possible vacuum leak but no luck. really don't care to take it in, but running out of ideas real quick. any past experience would be greatly appreciated. thanks
just a little info on earlier odysseys with engine revving up and down.. sometimes when u are low on coolant, it will do this,, but the main reason this happens is because on the pass. side back of engine, there is a power steering pressure sensor in the p/s line. this sensor wire will either break or get corroded and lose connection. what this sensor does is it revs the engine up if you are turning to help with the power steering when turning. turning creates pressure in the p/s system and this sensor picks this pressure up and tells the computer to raise the rpm a little. i've seen this on may odysseys....i've seen the wire to the sensor break completely off....
We live in Florida and have owned this 2006 Ody since new. Yesterday morning I drove the car three miles and started smelling smoke, kids said they saw smoke too. We got out of our car and within ten minutes the entire front end was on fire. We are still trying to figure out what happened. I saw the smoke coming from the passenger area (where the hood and windshield meet). Initially it was white smoke, then quickly turned black and within minutes flames had engulfed the hood. Fire company is investigating the cause. The last engine work that was done was the 45K maintenance (over 2 months ago) and we had some minor door work done the driver side a few months back as well. I imagine the car is a total loss at this point, we are waiting to hear back from insurance on this. If you have had any other experiences, please share.
Have you found anything new out from BBB? I am about to begin my process of contacting the BBB myself and would love to have some details prior to help my case. I wish I had researched the vehicle better before purchasing.
I just had the same thing happen with a phantom rock hitting the ac condensor at a repair cost of $1100 car is still under the warranty as it is a 2007 but the dealer says it is not covered how did you get them to cover it?
After the Honda dealer completed the recent transmission recall, control module updating, the van started a new problem. At idle the RPM revs to 2k, the engine malfunction light comes on, there is a clunk and the VSA and VSA Activation lights come on. [non-permissible content removed] idles at 1.5k, but pressing the accelarator basically does nothing at all. Sometimes if you shut it off for 5 minutes and restart it will run normally. Other times I've had to turn it off and one 10-15 times letting it sit for 2+hours in between. Basically no warning that it is going to happen and no idea why it is all of sudden running fine again. Been to the dealer twice. 1st time they cleaned the throttle body and relearned the idle. This did no good. It's in the dealer for the 2nd time now, they are talking about replacing the throttle body. This sounds like a computer issue, not a throttle body issue. Anyone else having a similar problem? Any fixes or suggestions? Dealer did the first work at no charge, which is great, but not sure why as they said it is unrelated to the transmission recall work. I have 80k on the van, so no warranty. They didn't say anything about "good will" so assuming at least the first time they somehow got their money from Honda as I know they don't do anything for free.
I have a 2010 EX-L with 1500 miles on it. Noticed when weather is in the 90s, the engine makes a weird moaning noise at 1800 to 2100 RPMs. Noise pulses in a pattern as if something is going in and out of phase. 2 seconds of noise, 7 seconds no noise, 2 seconds of noise , 30 seconds no noise- repeat. Doesn't matter what gear it's in, or if ECO light is on or not. Even between moaning noises, engine seems much noisier. In the evening, when weather is cooler, noise goes away. Haven't called the dealer yet. Wanted to know if anybody knows what this is. Also, need a really hot day for dealer to experience it.
2003 Odyssey 160 K miles has begun to act up. After engine gets warm and when driving in city (lots of stops) the normally smooth idle 1100 rpm will progressively increase between each stop from an idle point of 1100 rpm to higher levels up ....to 1500 ...to... 2000...to...2500...to... 2800. This forces me to go to neutral at EACH stop when it happens. Two out of town trips were cut short.
I have observed the cruise control throttle cable not retracting 100% and have tightened up the cable as it was a bit loose.
Honda service looked at it twice. $550 in the hole later they say spend $650 and replace the throttle body. Sounds reasonable to me if the idle was rough or ramping up or down....
Please respond if you have heard of this happening. - Thanks
I have a similar problem with my 2002 Odyssey EX - very high idle in stop-and-go traffic, usually in hot weather. The idle progressively increases from 700 rpm to 1700+ rpm. The idle drops back to normal when the driving conditions return to normal. I have spent $100's over the past few years with mechanic diagnostics, but no solution yet. Latest failed fix was replacing the power steering pressure switch, which was solution recommended by another poster.
OHare Honda dealer service has not experienced this problem. HELP!
I'm having the same problem with the engine revving to very high idle on hot days. Have replaced the idle air control valve but the problem seems to have gotten worse in that the rpms now go to about 3000-4000 rpm. Debating replacing the throttle body (complete) as there is a sensor of some type on there and another electonic control that you can't buy seperate from the entire throttle body. I will look at the power steering sensor/wire but don't think that is the problem. This problem definetly is linked to heat. does anyone out there have any stories that actually report a permanent solution?
Hi - wondering if your case was ever solved.... Our 2005 Odyssey burned to the ground on the side of the interstate last week. We had just started out on our vacation and was just a few minutes from home. No word yet from fire inspector.
I had similar issues with the manifold exploding when I started the engine. The problem was attributed to a leaky fuel injector. I have since replaced all my fuel injectors and have not had any issues.
I have a beloved 1995 Honda Odyssey 4 cylinder 168k miles. Recently on 100 degree days when it idles for 15 minutes or so you start to smell fuel real strong outside which ends up inside if sitting still. I haven't noticed any leaking gas on ground, nor does it smell like gas when I make a short trip, or basically anytime it doesn't idle I don't smell fuel. I need to fix because I know it can't be good for my 3 babies 4 & under and their developing bodies. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated because my husband wants to get something else
Was running fine everything worked pulled into the driveway turned car of went inside for 5 mins came back to start it nothing... it cranks over good, battery is new figured out gas is running to injectors but seems they arnt working spark plugs are dry after cranking for a minute. could it be something with computer or what i need help
I have the same exact car. When it's hot like that @ 90 degrees the cooling fan on the Radiator comes on to cool the engin off in Idel when you have the A.C. on. I don't see this issue when I am driving for sure !
I have a 2010 Touring model with 12K. I drove 400 miles to Northern Virginia, my check engine light started to blink and the VSA warning light came on. I took it to Miller Honda in Winchester. I believe all they did was reset the computer. When I pulled out everything worked. The following morning I only had power on three cylinders. I shut off the engine, turned it back on and had full power. 10 miles later the check engine light started flashing again and the VSA came on. It was Sunday so I couldn't go to the dealer. I started for home on Monday. No flashing lights. At 88 miles into my trip the check engine light came on, but did not flash. In the next 312 miles I never went into economy mode. Took the van to Hendrick Honda in Charlotte. They worked on it, checked for foul plugs and did a computer update. The van ran fine for 16 miles. Same flashing engine light and VSA. It has been at the dealer for two days with no solution. Any ideas??
Just wondering if you had any solution to the engines odd RPM while driving speeds? I have that problem with my 2000 odyssey and its typically slower speeds while in overdrive usually no more then 45 mph. It stops when I move to D3. Thanks Trevor
My daughter has a 2006 Honda Odessey. It all of sudden started rough and idling at 3000 rpm. We took it in and they work on it for weeks trying to find the problem. First they changed the oil pump as it was showing an 80 psi. The 2nd go round they changed the ECM thinking that may be the problem. Nope, still run rough and idled high. Then they found a problem. The spill valve was staying open. They changed the spill valve filter and she now runs better than before. The cost of all this was just over 900. Thank You Honda! Job well done.
Just thought this might help some who are having problems with rpm problems. My daughters 2006 honda Odessey was running rough and idiling at 3000 rpm. The Tech found the Spill or Spool Valve filter was clogged. Once they changed the filter, it is running better than before.
VTEC, the original Honda variable valve control system, originated from REV (Revolution-modulated valve control) introduced on the CBR400 in 1983 known as HYPER VTEC. In the regular four-stroke automobile engine, the intake and exhaust valves are actuated by lobes on a camshaft. The shape of the lobes determines the timing, lift and duration of each valve. Timing refers to an angle measurement of when a valve is opened or closed with respect to the piston position (BTDC or ATDC). Lift refers to how much the valve is opened. Duration refers to how long the valve is kept open. Due to the behavior of the working fluid (air and fuel mixture) before and after combustion, which have physical limitations on their flow, as well as their interaction with the ignition spark, the optimal valve timing, lift and duration settings under low RPM engine operations are very different from those under high RPM. Optimal low RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in insufficient filling of the cylinder with fuel and air at high RPM, thus greatly limiting engine power output. Conversely, optimal high RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in very rough low RPM operation and difficult idling. The ideal engine would have fully variable valve timing, lift and duration, in which the valves would always open at exactly the right point, lift high enough and stay open just the right amount of time for the engine speed in use.
VTEC was initially designed to increase the power output of an engine to 100 PS/liter or more while maintaining practicality for use in mass production vehicles. Some later variations of the system were designed solely to provide improvements in fuel efficiency, or increased power output as well as improved fuel efficiency. In practice, a fully variable valve timing engine is difficult to design and implement.
The opposite approach to variable timing is to produce a camshaft which is better suited to high RPM operation. This approach means that the vehicle will run very poorly at low RPM (where most automobiles spend much of their time) and much better at high RPM. VTEC is the result of an effort to marry high RPM performance with low RPM stability.
Good Read. My daughters 2006 honda Odessey was running rough and idiling at 3000 rpm. The Tech found the Spill or Spool Valve filter was clogged. They had changed out the Oil Pump and the ECM only to find it was a filter problem with the Spill or Spool Valve.Once they changed the filter, it is running better than before.
you dont need the throttle body [non-permissible content removed].... all you need is the idle control valve and make sure that you radiator is full since this valve is control by the temperature of the coolant
I have an 03 Acura cl type s M/T, with Identical problems as you do. The worst events I had is @ 6000 rpms. changed EGR, Idle sensor, O2's. no effect. did you resolve yours?
I have a 2011 Odyssey with 16K miles with a similar incident. I was traveling for the first time in the Blue Ridge Mountain area. The engine light came on, would not accelerate... The dealership says it's a failed spool valve. I picked it up today. Honestly, I don't want to keep the van now. When you spend 30K+ for a vehicle, the last thing you want is to be stranded and having it towed...especially when it's less than a year old.
About three years ago when the engine would get warm it would start knocking or tapping when it got warm. Now it does it all the time. When you rev the engine it gets louder until about 2000 rpms when it blend in with the engine noise. When you are waiting at a stop light you can hear it. It is on the passenger side and I do not know it is is the power steering or the valves need aqdjusting. Any help to figure it our would be helpful.
While driving along smoothly, why did my 2007 Honda Odyssey spit out the middle front spark plug and coil? It has 70000 miles on it and no one has ever removed or replaced the plugs.
Mechanic checked other plugs - all were in tight. Put coil in head (in place) and replaced plug.
Hi, I've got an 06 Odyssey with excessive valve racket on one or two valves, but the noise stops @ 2500-2600 rpm on the way up and starts @ the same rpm on the way down. Does the spool valve activate the VTEC @ a set rpm or does it vary according to engine load. Once VTEC engages is it possible that it would eliminate the noise?
I have a 2003 Odyssey with 116k miles. It's the 6 cylinder model. While driving suddenly the Malfunction Indicator Lamp started flashing and the engine started running bad. The check engine lamp and on as well as the TCS. We scanned the codes and came up with seven. P0300, 301, 303, 304, 305, 306 and P1399. Cleared the codes, started the engine and it still was misfiring, no light immediately. We erased the codes, drove it 10 feet and the lights came back on, except the TCS. Read the codes, got 5 this time - P0300, 303, 305, 306 and P1399.
When we opened it up, there was evidence of a mouse nest under the cover, but can't find any evidence of them chewing on anything. We are guessing it's something they did or maybe it's just bad plugs. (Due to be replaced anyway.) We don't think it's likely it's the ignition control module.
Comments
I took my 04 odyssey to my mechanist and he replaced Air Idle Control Valve. I've never had this problem again. Hope this helps you.
Any Help Out There???
Also, i see the vibration at between 40-60MPH in top gear with RPM of about 1500, it's like groaning noise.
I am curious to know, what you did to fix this problems..??? Did you ever got that fixed. Can you please reply. Any help would appreciated.
If you find a solution please let me know.
My van has not had any accident and any repair history, so we are not happy with the engine dead without any warning. We asked the American Honda to send the District Manager to take a look and at least we can get the second opinion, it is very dangerous that the van was dead suddenly on the road without any warning. The case manager refused this and he said he only stand behind the Warranty and the dealer's decision (but not the customer). I am so disappointed to hear this. I said I did not ask for any refund, just the responsible way for the entire Honda’s customer, he refused this from the beginning to the end!!!
Please let me know if you guys have some good suggestion!
!
I do know other people from earlier posts that had the same work done but did not help. Hope your dealer looks at closer it definitely looks like a transmission issue which is covered by the power train warranty.
We have an 07 and I have not been thrilled with it. (ever)
that will buff right out.
Thanks.
I have observed the cruise control throttle cable not retracting 100% and have tightened up the cable as it was a bit loose.
Honda service looked at it twice. $550 in the hole later they say spend $650 and replace the throttle body. Sounds reasonable to me if the idle was rough or ramping up or down....
Please respond if you have heard of this happening. - Thanks
OHare Honda dealer service has not experienced this problem. HELP!
Sorry to hear yours caught fire. Do you know where it started?
Trevor
VTEC, the original Honda variable valve control system, originated from REV (Revolution-modulated valve control) introduced on the CBR400 in 1983 known as HYPER VTEC. In the regular four-stroke automobile engine, the intake and exhaust valves are actuated by lobes on a camshaft. The shape of the lobes determines the timing, lift and duration of each valve. Timing refers to an angle measurement of when a valve is opened or closed with respect to the piston position (BTDC or ATDC). Lift refers to how much the valve is opened. Duration refers to how long the valve is kept open. Due to the behavior of the working fluid (air and fuel mixture) before and after combustion, which have physical limitations on their flow, as well as their interaction with the ignition spark, the optimal valve timing, lift and duration settings under low RPM engine operations are very different from those under high RPM. Optimal low RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in insufficient filling of the cylinder with fuel and air at high RPM, thus greatly limiting engine power output. Conversely, optimal high RPM valve timing, lift and duration settings would result in very rough low RPM operation and difficult idling. The ideal engine would have fully variable valve timing, lift and duration, in which the valves would always open at exactly the right point, lift high enough and stay open just the right amount of time for the engine speed in use.
VTEC was initially designed to increase the power output of an engine to 100 PS/liter or more while maintaining practicality for use in mass production vehicles. Some later variations of the system were designed solely to provide improvements in fuel efficiency, or increased power output as well as improved fuel efficiency. In practice, a fully variable valve timing engine is difficult to design and implement.
The opposite approach to variable timing is to produce a camshaft which is better suited to high RPM operation. This approach means that the vehicle will run very poorly at low RPM (where most automobiles spend much of their time) and much better at high RPM. VTEC is the result of an effort to marry high RPM performance with low RPM stability.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC
did you resolve yours?
I hope you have better luck.
Mechanic checked other plugs - all were in tight. Put coil in head (in place) and replaced plug.
When we opened it up, there was evidence of a mouse nest under the cover, but can't find any evidence of them chewing on anything. We are guessing it's something they did or maybe it's just bad plugs. (Due to be replaced anyway.) We don't think it's likely it's the ignition control module.
Any guesses, theories or ideas?