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Dodge Ram Warning Lights and Trouble Codes

1246711

Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Chrysler makes code retrieval very easy and end-user friendly.

    Beginning with the ignition key in the OFF position, move the key to the RUN position and back to OFF in the following cycle:

    OFF, RUN, OFF, RUN, OFF, RUN

    This must be performed in a smooth, fairly quick action.

    Observe the transmission range indicator on the instrument cluster and wait a few seconds. Any codes stored in the computer will be sequentially displayed. The test is completed when the word "done" is visible.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • Thanks a million Dusty. I found the trouble code. (P0573) Any idea what it is?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Yep.

    P0573 = Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit High

    Just for grins, check and see if you have stop lights, or check to see if stepping on the brake pedal disengages the cruise control. Also, I'd recommend checking all of the fuses.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • On my 2003 Dodge Ram the rear brake lights are going out all the time and then warning indicator comes on. Has anyone else had this problem? I replace them about every four months and they always go out in about in a about a week of each other.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    When you remove the bulb does it have the appearance of it being burned out, or is the glass clear and bright?

    If the glass is bright (no signs of being burned inside) and the filament appears to have broken on one of the end supports, with the center of the filament still intact, the failure is more likely to be from vibration. This is not uncommon with poor quality bulbs.

    If the filament has disintegrated in the center and the bulb shows signs of filament burning, you either have a poor quality bulb, experiencing a high voltage condition, or the bulbs are being subjected to a high duty cycle, meaning they are being illuminated for more hours than you think.

    Last year I noticed that my neighbor's Chevy Venture would have the brake lights on while the vehicle was just sitting in their driveway. At first I thought someone was in the vehicle, but after observing this for a half-dozen times I noticed there wasn't anyone in the van. It turned out they had a bad stoplight switch.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • goaliegoalie Posts: 16
    Dustys long-winded bulb quality check seems redundant. Given that these bulbs ltterally never get changed in some cars from the assembly line to the crusher...its not the bulbs...you will find your wiring harness has a minor fault somewhere...rubbed thru and grounding out occasionally..which will cause the bulbs to burn out/fail much like the fuse would...and should..if the wire were pinched ...has the vehicle been hit? trailer hitch installed? Check the main plug up by the spare..Check the plug at the brake pedal switch......bulbs are bulbs. You have a minor intermittent electrical problem.
  • goaliegoalie Posts: 16
    Its one of 3 sensors that affect the timing....get the code and check the code chart...
  • goaliegoalie Posts: 16
    Chilton manuals are cheap; Dodge Truck Owners web-site is also pretty helpful. That code is for a minor/small leak in the evap system....likely a cracked hoses or failed clamp.
  • Thanks Dusty for the reply. When I replace the bulbs they are completely clear, and they still look brand new. When I replace them, I go to Dodge and they have the ones that they put in at the factory. Even though the bulb looks new, it looks a little burnt at the ends. This is really the only issue I have with the truck so it's not that big of a deal. In fact I have replaced them so many times, I have gotten it down to about 5 minutes from start to finish.
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    light came on and i found code po551 ----wonder what that might be???anyone have problem before???
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Are there any other bulbs or lamps in the vehicle that have failed since you've had the vehicle?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    P0551.....Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

    Does or has the engine ever stalled when making an extreme left or right turn of the wheel with the engine at idle speed?

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    that is correct once in blue moon with wheel turned sharp to the right or left----6-10 times a year.i have had the truck 5 years and have been impressed---mostly with the smoothly shifting 4wheel drive.thanks for name of problem,do you not know how hard that is to locate and replace?if any more info about this i am very thankful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • No, I bought the truck new and I have had it 5 1/2 years, and the brake lights are the only lights I have ever had to replace. I just noticed that one of the liscence plate bulbs was out, but that's it.

    Thanks,

    Josh
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    On RAMs that are equiped with the 4.7 motor, or some versions that had 20 inch tires installed at the factory, there is a switch (sensor) in the high pressure side of the power steering line. The switch is mounted to the hose assembly and utilizes a two-wire connector. This switch is normally closed (no-low pressure) and opens when line pressure exceeds approximately 500 psi. This switch is used to trigger the PCM to increase engine idle speed to prevent stalling. The PCM is recording the P0551 code because it has sensed an open circuit for too long a duration.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Well, my very forensic discourse on observing the filament failure was for a reason. Trying to assist people with diagnosing problems over the network, one should be careful to avoid making too many assumptions. The bulb failure mode will tell you something.

    As one poster has already commented, most bulbs nowadays will last for a long time. My Dakota is almost seven years old, and 114,000 miles later I've only replaced one taillight bulb.

    A short in the circuit to the rear lamps will not cause a bulb to fail. If the short is on the supply side (before the lamp), a fuse will fail. If the short is on the return side of the bulb (short to frame), nothing will happen because the return path is frame.

    If the bulbs display signs of a burned filament, it indicates excessive voltage spikes or extremely long illumination duration. If the filament shows signs of being broken, not burned, it is very likely from impact forces.

    Do you use the tail gate a lot, or does this vehicle see a higher than average amount of rough roads at higher speeds? The RAM tail gate is very heavy and a lot of them get slammed shut with quite a bit of force. Believe it or not this is a significant source of impact forces that can cause filament failures. Most of us civilians won't be replacing a lot of lamps, but you will see this more often on vehicles that are used in a commercial environment.

    This may or may not explain the situation in your case, but at the moment I'm suspicious that the bulbs are failing due to vibration.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • goaliegoalie Posts: 16
    As Dusty has indicated, if the short is on the feed side, then the fuse SHOULD blow, but that isn't always the case. I've been a Dodge mechanic for 41 years.....my simplistic diagnosis is based more so on experience than the new-found ability to read a code chart. Further to that, I've seen simple 4-flat trailer plugs/harnesses with taped connections, that corrode over time, and burn out the bulbs with out ever sending enought grounded current back to the fuseblock to cause a failure. I am glad to see this forum is helpful, not only to those who solicit answers to their spoecific problems, but also to those of us who have crawled around under a truck or car, since the days of point ignition......
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    are you suspecting it might be the switch---i am very open for your sugestions--where i might buy the switch???how in dept??sounds pretty easy.....name of switch???again i am thankful for comments..
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Chrysler, I believe, calls this item the Power Steering Pressure Sensor. You may be able to find this at a auto parts store, but I myself generally prefer to use genuine Chrysler parts.

    If this component is actually defective the code should clear almost immediately, but you may have to go through a number restarts and complete operating cycles before the trouble code clears and the instrument indicator goes out.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    just talked to friend he put code in computer di..............,and he said the same as dustyk--he also told me that it sounds like it is just doing the job--maybe wheel turned to much---and hung up...also told me just to make sure everything is hooked properly and in place!!!!!!!his machine did not say anything about replacing anything..
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    are you saying that if the component is not bad the my mils light will turn off after num......... restarts..only time i pull codes when mils pops up.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Anytime the MIL is illuminated, something is wrong. Turning the steering wheel to a full left or right position at idle and thus triggering the PCM to increase idle speed is normal operation and will not initiate a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) by itself.

    In this case the PCM has detected a hard fault. My suspicion is the switch in question is in the incorrect state all of the time or a good portion of the time and the PCM is sensing high pressure past a certain duration. It is also possible that there is either a short or an open in the circuit going to the switch, or the input to the PCM is bad.

    The switch can be tested using a multimeter or continuity checker. The switch is normally closed, so at idle with the wheels straight head the switch should show continuity. If its open in that state, then I think you've found your problem.

    Now, some DTCs will reset after so many restarts and/or complete driving cycles. Others must be manually reset with a DRB3 tool. I cannot tell you at the moment if this is one of those cases.

    By the way, have you retrieved a fault code from the PCM and do you know what it is?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    i do not know!!!all i know is i got a code couple weeks ---i invest... and found --i could pull codes- so i did ,and found the code listing---it was my gas cap not screwed on at all.1 day went --mil light still on---so diss........... pos..... side battery to try to reset---it did not work..later i went to put gas in ,and the next day it went off----after num......... starts!!!the other day i got the code we are currently talking about----po551 poped up and then it said done...sorry i do not know to much about vehicles and app......... your help.
  • joshuagjoshuag Posts: 92
    Thanks for the reply. I don't use the tailgate a whole lot, but I do go over a quite a lot of bumps so that might cause the lights to go out I guess. I do a lot of stop and go driving so that might be the reason they go out so quickly also.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    ...and stiff optional suspension packages probably exacerbate the problem, too, especially if this is a 4x4.

    Dusty
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    so it finally got warm today ,and i diss............ the switch and put my ohm meter to it--with wheels straight ahead----it was closed--i am not sure about this,but when i pulled apart the switch there was some type of moisture inside it.i dryed out best possible ---connected back together--- then cranked truck and my mils light is gone...i guess it be fine now!!!my main concern is when my mils light comes on -find out how to fix it so i can pass old emissions inspection here in n.c. i would like to thank dustyk for all your replys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!- !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • trav6trav6 Posts: 18
    so my mils light came back on today ,and i pulled apart the switch and it had moisture in it again.i think the moisture is power steering fluid,and i was wondering if any body on this site happened to know if there is a seal or o ring behind the switch???????????????????i think i need a hole new switch,but i am guessing the seal comes on the switch????????any help would be greatfully appreciated!!!!!!!
  • joshuagjoshuag Posts: 92
    It is not a 4x4, but it does have the 3.92 rear diff, which makes it a little more stiff.
  • I got stuck on the snow big time this morning. in the process of getting pulled out, the mil light came on. thanks for the help. btw i have a 05 dodge ram 1500 with a 5.7 . i looked up the code.Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit High. I s this something that will fix its self? or coould it just be ice o rsnow?
  • my 01 1500 sometimes cuts out while driving. Its like it shuts off then goes again, the dash lights come on the radio resets. Also last weekend I was driving and the battery gauge whent all the way up. Plus the alarm some times goes off when I shut the truck off Does anyone have any sugestions I'm lost on this one Battery? Alternator I Don't know HELP
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