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Mazda B-Series Engine Problems

KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
If your B-truck engine won't git-r-done, ask about it here

kcram - Pickups Host
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Comments

  • quesoqueso Posts: 1
    Please help. Have a 1992 Mazda b2200 pick up w auto trans, dash lights up buzzer is on but when i turn key nothing, but a clicking sound from shifting lever possibly. Any clues?
  • I have a 1986 mazda b2000 with a blown engine and a 1991 b2200 that is wrecked but with a good engine, will i be able to swap the 1991 engine into the 1986 truck?
  • You may have already found this out, but yes, that engine should swap should be straight forward.
    Pull one out, throw the other in.
  • Ok, I'm thinking about dieselizing my 1989 B2200 series truck.
    The engine I plan on using is an Isuzu 4LE1.
    The problem here is that this engine weighs about 500 lbs.
    I'm guessing the 2.2L gas engine that's in my truck weighs about 350 lbs.
    I also know that my front suspension is a torsion bar style and that its appearance is very similar to that used by Chrysler / Plymouth / Dodge products of the 1960's and 1970s.

    I'm thinking my current front suspension may not be sprung enough to handle the extra weight under normal driving conditions (if at all) and I know that small block Chrysler V8's are about 500-550 lbs.

    So can I easily retrofit the torsion bars off, say, a 70's Dodge Dart, onto my truck?

    ...oh, and before you start making references to the diesel engine that powered Mazda trucks in the 80's, be informed that that engine has been out of production for many years now and parts are next to impossible to find.
    In fact almost all the small diesel engines that were either popular in the 70's, or those that the factories used in the trucks in the 80's are no longer made and parts are becoming increasingly harder to find.
    The Isuzu engine I listed above is the only one I've found that would fit my needs.

    Thanks for any help any of you can provide.
  • tray1tray1 Posts: 4
    Sometimes while I'm driving...My Mazda pickup door latches automatically lock and then my engine will shut down. I can always start it back up and again, it may shut down one or two more times or not at all. Why does this happen? :(
  • i just put 700 into it new head, gasket the works, now it wont idle and runns ruff as hell, didnt have this problem before is it possible that there is a vaccum leak on the carberator that im miss or that i cant see? had a friend that hes did the same thing and it was a vaccum line but doesnt remember where it was located!1990 mazda b2200
  • rioricoriorico Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Mazda B3000, ext cab, 120K miles, gutless in towing department. How can I improve the torque/hp, or what is required to drop a 4.0 Liter engine into truck? Please help
  • russ52russ52 Posts: 2
    F/C stands for Fuel Control
    I have a 2001 Mazda B 3000 P/U truck, I filled it up 2 day's ago. It's now at slightly below 3/4 of a tank, (By the way, what size is the "Tank", 19.5 ????)
    Today, 11 June 07 it started "Chugging Spitting Coughing every time the Engine gets up to & maybe slightly past "3000" RPM

    Is it "Water" in the Gas, or a Fuel Control (F/C) problem ?
    Remember, every time it gets up to (or slightly past) 3000 RPM, it starts "Chugging Spitting & Coughing....

    Please Help Me .....
  • russ52russ52 Posts: 2
    Please Stop Messages in replying to; 2001 Mazda B3000 Series P/U, F/C trouble. :shades:
  • buggrabuggra Posts: 1
    What a piece of s**t!! I bought this thing on 20 Jun and traded it for a GMC Canyon the NEXT day. I am kicking myself for not test driving but was relying on the advice of my used to be best friend. Talk about underpowered, I traded in a 2000 Ford Ranger 4cyl, 16valves and it was sick. I had no idiot light on the dash so I didn't want to take it to the dealer for a "trial and pay" experience. This sick Ranger had more power. The Mazda had 12 valves, the minimum it takes to make a 6 cyl motor. This Mazda truck was special ordered by a dealer in Danville, Va from a dealer in Virginia Beach. Reason, the Danville dealer had not one truck on the lot. Not having enough sense to grasp why (the sales manager later told me that the reason they had none was they were too hard to sell!) Rather that babble on I close with "do not buy this truck. :lemon: "
  • frabanfraban Posts: 3
    The engine in my truck automatically starts to race and then dies down to a standard idle. Can anyone tell me why this is happening?
  • We are also having the same problem with the same year make/model. We've had it fixed 3x and can't get it to stop revving. Truck has 51k on it. Sounds like the dumb thing is going to blow up. Suggestion was made that maybe it is a carbon buildup on the throttle body. Any other suggestions.. :confuse:
  • frabanfraban Posts: 3
  • frabanfraban Posts: 3
    Found the problem. I purchased a Throttle Position Sensor located on the back side of the carberator. It cost me $36.99 at an automotive parts supply store. After replacing the old unit a friend used the truck for a week and logged nearly a thousand miles. No more problems!
  • While washing the passenger side wheel well found some florescent yellow fluid. Any idea where it could be coming from? No puddle found in driveway.
  • I have a 1987 Mazda B2000 pickup with a bad engine. A rebuilt 1990 Mazda 2.2 engine was advertised locally out of a Ford Probe. How difficult or is it even possible to put the Probe engine in my Mazda pickup. They are both manual transmissions.
  • I have the same problem with my pickup my 2001 Mazda B3000, and i can't figure out whats wrong. If you could tell me i would be greatful.
  • I need some assistance but first time here and not sure where to post. I recently purchased the 89 Mazda B-2200 and having some issues with it. Is seems to really idle roughly and acts as if it has a lot of trouble accelerating. It won't even go over 62 mph and takes forever for it to even reach that speed. I have replaced the distributor, rotor button, spark plugs and wires and hasn't helped. It also gets terrible gas mileage which isn't good since that is the whole reason that I purchased the vehicle to start with. It will hardly crank if it sits for a little while and when it cranks it tends to cut off frequently especially at red light..LOL! Any help of this situation would be greatly appreciated
  • I'm not a mechanic but my B2000 had similar symptoms to what your describing.What I eventually found was the key and keyway in the crankshaft that the lower timing belt sprocket is drive by were woren. This caused the timing of the engine to be offf. I'd start by checking the engine timing . If that's correct you can loosen the belts for the fan A.C. ,etc. and check to see if fan pulley can be turned back showing wear in this keyway area .
  • try installing a new nikki carb. i did and it runs great now. try ebay.
  • I currently have a 88 B2200 truck that i want to install a B2600i engine out of a 92. How much swapping needs to be done? i believe the fuel tank along with the computer and wiring needs to be swapped. I just removed the 2200 engine and would like some advice prior to yanking out the 2600i. I also know the engine mounts are different but should mount up fine. Any advice would be welcome.
  • you can swap any engine! it may just take a little work. with most swaps you normally will have to change the mounts. there are so many issues to look at but the esiest way to do it is to do a complete swap. (engine tranny computer and harness) there are less things you have to build
  • if your engine is causing you too much grief i have an 86 b2000 engine that i'm wanting to sell. its got 0 miles on everthing but the block, oil pan and 5speed manual tranny. the engine was build with all new parts by car quest 2 years ago and i've even bought a header and new intake manifold, clutch and flywheel for it. every thing has been cleaned and the engine, header, intake and a few more visible parts have been primed and high-temp painted. it has no carb though but if you'd lie it just make an offer and we can discuss it. i can even have it shipped if needed.
  • dog493dog493 Posts: 2
    :) I was thinking about getting one,are they any good? year 90s Thanks
  • dog493dog493 Posts: 2
    Iwas thinking a about getting a used mazda 4000 4/4 4.0 v6 in the late 90;s are they ok ???
  • bifftbifft Posts: 1
    2007 B-3000, history: She smacked her driver rear bumper into a very mature Ash tree while backing out of a parking slip. She only traveled about 18" but they went by real fast! The driver side bumper crumpled properly, the only visual damage. Since, at least twice a month, she's shut-off in mid-flight. Heavy traffic, open road city hiways or country lanes; she has no real preference. She had a look over in approximately december 2007 and was pronounced a hypochondriac, nothing was wrong! Yet...! She's been in the shop for three weeks now and the latest cure is to replace "the computer", fortunately on Mazda's dime.
    Otherwise, best darn truck I've ever owned!
    Any ideas?
  • rds5rds5 Posts: 2
    My 1989 Mazda B2200 pickup dies after warm-up. It restarts but runs extremely rough with no power. Any ideas out there on what the problem might be
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    I'd start by checking the fuel and air filters. but you may also have too much back pressure from a clogged exhaust. another thing could be the carb. the truck is almost 20 years old and could just need a simple tune up
  • bigsandybigsandy Posts: 3
    I have a 1987 B2200 and I am having a lot of problem with vacume lines. Is there a diagram of lines for a california truck and a diagram of a non-california truck so I can figure out which is totally needed and which are not? :sick:
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    oh yeah. just pick up a chiltons manuel for your truck. it'll be no more than $20 and will have everything you need (complete wiring and vacume line diagrams) :)
  • bigsandybigsandy Posts: 3
    Hmmmmmm the person thats fixing my truck has a copy but claims there is no diagram. Maybe he has a different book.

    Thank's,

    Sandy!
  • bigsandybigsandy Posts: 3
    I have a problem with a 1987 B2200 pickup that idles very high. Someone said it could be the carb. Is there a different carb that will work? I saw where someone mentioned a Nikki carb? Could you please give me some info on that? The person fixing the truck also thinks it might be the float and is just trying to fix that. Any comments or suggestions are very welcome. (help)

    Sandy! :cry:
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    i have an 86 b2000 and a chitons book for my truck and it has all the wiring diagrams for the truck in it. the problem might be that they diagrams are very hard to read and understand. the best thing you could do is call your local mazda or domestic (us mazda trucks are built by ford) repair shop and see if they could fax you a copy of the diagram.

    no worries,
    the_bean
  • I recently changed my oil pump, water pump, and timing belt. Plugs as well. Before I took it apart it ran well and did not smoke at all. I completed it and it runs strong but smokes out the tailpipe quite a bit.
    Put the # 1 at top dead center. Took timing cover off and saw the mark on crankshaft pulley was in line. As well as the A mark on the cam pulley.
    I also took the valve cover off and saw that the #1 springs were uncompressed, but I believe were closed. Cause I put my finger in the spark plug hole and felt compression.
    I am at a loss, I don't know what I'm missing. Can anybody help me?
  • Plus I also put a timing gun on it and it looks correct.
  • hey i am dealing with the same mess on the same series of truck i was wondering did you ever find a good diagram for vacuum lines
    [email protected]
  • I was just wondering if you still had your B-2000 engine for sale. If you do, I was wondering how much you wanted for it and what part of the U.S. you live in.

    Thanks!
    7801brian
  • I have a 2002 B2300 P/U. Went to change the thermostat and found the engine cooling system eroding internally. Seems like the wrong coolant was put in the engine. Funny thing, the coolant has not been replaced. It was topped off twice. 1 by the dealer and 1 by the oil change place. 78k Miles and no one ever recommended the coolant be replaced during all of the service visits. Because the warranty expired, MAZDA disavowed any responsibility but offered a couple hundred dollars in service credits. BEWARE the coolant you use. DO NOT USE MAZDA EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT. See owners manual page 275. I believe this is what was in my engine because when it was drained, it was orange/brown in color NOT GREEN.
    WORD to the wise.
  • TimSCTimSC Posts: 1
    I have an engine miss under load or heavy acceleration. It seems to be much worse in cold weather. I have changed the plugs and plug wires with no help. I have the ECM code checked, it indicated a temperature modual fault. I changed the electronic thermostat, but no help, trucks runs in normal temperature range. I have visually inspected the coil and see no issues like cracks or moisture. The truck has 118K miles and has been well maintained. Any one have a similar problem?
  • yeah actually i do! but not with my b2000. its actually with my F2T mx-6. my mazda cuts out at 4psi and between 3 and 4 thousand RPM. :sick: i've had it checked and was told it was the ignitor. i replaced the whole distributor. this helped a bit but the problem still remains. after calling around and talking to a few car gods i have 3 possible answers (all sensors) 1) the cam/speed sensor 2) the temp sensor or 3) the TPS (throttle position sensor) i was told the problem is definately electrical! i'm yet to atttemp the replace these sensors but if/when you fix your truck please let me know and i'll do the same for you when i fix my engine issues. :)
  • check mazdatruckin.com
  • I got a used engine out of a salvage yard in Colorado recently to replace my other engine that suddenly had a knock and bad compression on one cylinder and turned the antifreeze black and oily. Anyway, the new engine has a mild vibration to it starting around 2000rpm and keeps it up through the RPM range. Pickup really doesn't want to go past 70 mph and makes the steering wheel feel like you are hanging onto a vibrator. It has 140 compression on all the cylinders. Vacuum gauge holds 20 inches steady. The pan looks like it has been taken off before as it has orange form a gasket on it. I am wondering if someone had this thing apart and turned a rod around backwards or something. If it is could I unbolt the rod and turn it without messing up the rings? Not really excited about having to pull this engine back out. I had called the salvage yard I got if from and they told me to change out the harmonic balencer. That didn't work either and don't think they are going to stand behind this engine. Any ideas for a out there?
  • where is the timing mark for crankshaft (?) I see the diamond (oil pump) and triangle (camshaft) how do i find tdc to set the timing? mazda b 2500 truck
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    there will be a small notch on the pulley. it may have lost its color. the best way to find it is to put the car in gear (engine off) unplug the coil and roll the car forward until you see it. then mark it with a bright colored paint pen. when the notch aligns with the "TDC" mark your golden. OR you can remove the #1 spark plug, place your finger over the whole and turn the crankshaft. when its on the compression cycle you'll feel air being forced past your finger once the air stops blowing or you start to feel suction your very close to TDC
  • I Have a 1986 mazda b2000. Timing problem? Will not start. The belts and fan turns. Sounds like you are trying to start a electric motor.
    There are no signs of life. The guy i got it from told me he got in it one day and it was running sluggish and the next day he got to the end of his street and it died and that was that.

    I Tried starting fluid and that will not work at all.

    Got it for $300.00 nice truck if i can get it running.
  • Have you got spark? Pull a plug wire to see if you got a good spark. If not it may be as simple as a distributor cap gone bad. There is a little carbon piece in under the cap that can go bad and do that as happened to me once. Also might be the electronic control module in the distributor. they go bad too.
  • jfcaverjfcaver Posts: 1
    We have a '97 mazda b4000 we have had problems with the butterfly valve getting dirty and needs cleaning periodically. Recently the engine stalls and sputters when changing gears similar to a dirty butterfly valve, but the valve is clean and the air filter is new. There was one vaccum hose that needed replacing, done.
    This seems like an air intake problem??? Is there some sensor that may need replacing? Or could the problem be in the catalytic converter??? How would one go about testing these?
  • the_beanthe_bean Posts: 14
    300 was a great buy for the truck! they have some real potential. (a F2T from a 1st gen mx6, 626 or ford probe will bolt up to our tranny and engine mounts easily doubling your power and torque. or if you want to stick with a 2L you can pull the DOHC top end off of a 95 kia sportage) nuff of that though... back to the problem :cry: check to make sure the #1 piston is at TDC and the marks on the timing belt align. next take the valve cover off and look at the valves for #1. they should both be down (compression stroke) or the exhaust should be up (exhaust stroke) [try to get it to the compression stroke to make the final step easy] finally check the distributor and make sure the rotor is at or near the electrode for the #1 plug wire. (#1 should be marked on the cap if your couldn't tell from the wires which one is #1)

    if all of this lines up and it still wont start then you make have problems in the fuel lines. (filter pump and lines can get clogged over time from a decaying gas tank.)

    if you need any more help you can e-mail me directly at [email protected] i'd be happy to help you with what i can.
  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Posts: 21
    I have '90 Mazda B2200 LE-5, was having the same problems, bought a Weber carb on Ebay, problems solved.
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