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Infiniti G35 Engine Break In

dargib01dargib01 Posts: 1
edited April 2014 in INFINITI
I just purchased an 07 G35 Sedan. After I did, I asked my salesperson if there was any recommended engine break-in tips (not revving over X RPM, not driving for long periods of time at the same speed, etc.). I was told there was no break-in period, and drove it hard a couple of times (as well as on a relatively long trip).

Does anyone know if this will adversely affect my car's engine? I've heard conflicting things regarding the issue.

I appreciate any input you may have in advance.


  • esfoadesfoad Posts: 210
    Best would be to read the Owner's Manual. ;) My 05 required 1000 miles at no more than 4K RPM but to vary the engine speed as much as possible.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Same on the 2006. I thought it was 1200 miles but I could be wrong.

    I have found the story is the same regardless of where you go: Dealer says no break-in required; book says take it easy for a 1000 miles or so. Porsche was the same.

    That said, I don't think you did any damage, and wouldn't worry about it.

    I do like to drop the oil out at 1000 miles, (and change the filter); have done so for all my cars for several years now. If you examine the filter after 1000 miles I would bet you'll see some metal shavings. I always do. Then I go into a regular schedule of oil changes every 4000 to 6000 miles.

    On break-in..... I was a little disappointed with the performance on the 06 Coupe at first, (after the break-in period). Seemed a bit sluggish compared to the 05 Coupe I had. After 5000 to 6000 miles I started to notice a bit more oomph and now, at 8800 it is everything the 05 was and more. I am satisfied with the pull under acceleration (for a stock set up anyway; wonder what a supercharger would add to seat of the pants reckoning?)

    So a question to those who know or might have an opinion or idea, do cars in this day and age, need to wear in before you get close to performance potential?

  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    Not my first experience with a late model car that seems to get better after the first 10,000 miles or so.
    I don't believe they have to be babied. If you have an MT I would certainly avoid lugging the engine. Not easy to do with so much torque BTW.
    But I think warming up the entire drive-train while driving is essential new or old, before romping on it.
    I can understand long garage warm ups of a minute or two in the coldest climates, but normally, we should be on our way in 30 seconds.
    As far as break-in, build up rpms slowly over the first few
    Brakes should be bedded in too, but that's another subject.
    Tires should not be stressed for a couple of hundred miles either. Maybe I am just obsessive, but if you do some research there is a lot to support this.
    Avoid the cruise control, vary speeds at cruise. With the 5AT you can shift periodically between 4 and 5 while on a long trip.
    In summary, enjoy it, drive it 'normally' not like it's race day, except for occasional sprints (like 25 to 70) followed by engine braking/coasting and repeat several times, for helping the rings seat.
  • Most of these sale people are dumb as a box of rocks. Advice: Just break it in. It's logical to do so. ;)
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    The most basic thing is varying speeds, not holding it a constant RPM. The fact the sales person did not at least know that much says a lot about how little he does know.
    While I agree a good salesperson could sell anything, a smart one will get you the right answer if he does not have them.
  • keitha3keitha3 Posts: 124
    When I took auto shop at a community college quite a few years back, that's what the shop teacher recommended more than anything. He said he took every new vehicle he bought to an isolated stretch of road and repeated taking it from a stop to about 50 or 60 miles (in a gradual manner) and back down to a stop around 15-20 times to break it in properly.

    That's why, if and when I order the G35, I want one that hasn't even been test driven. At least in my neck of the woods, the Infiniti dealer isn't soft on the test drives whatsoever and tells us to let it show us what it can do during our test drives.

    I am obsessive about car care and maintenance and I want to baby my car through the break in, although the temptation to unbridle the thing will be extremely frustrating.
  • I broke mine in easy for the first 500 miles, varying speed, no full throttle, etc. Mine has over 42000 miles on it now and runs great, no oil consumption, etc. Mine has been run for 42K, almost exclusively on 87 octane. and does not ping, runs great, etc.

    I changed it over to Mobil 1 at approx 7000 miles Based on gasoline mileage, I would say the engine broke in at 10000 miles, where the gasoline mileage took a significant increase. Urban mileage is approx 19 - 20 now and normal highway mileage at 80 to 85 is 25.

    I think it could get better at slower speeds, but sorry I cannot accumulate this data.

  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    It never ceases to amaze me how folks follow their owner's manual but when it comes to fuel recommendations, if it says 'premium' they think it's a con.

    Of course it will not ping. The timing is retarded thanks to knock sensors and a smart ECU. And mileage will only be slightly affected.
    But wheel HP can be reduced as much as 10%.
  • I agree with you that the engine will not ping. The ECU will pull back the timing if it detects preignition. What I am telling you is that if this is occurring on my 2003 G35s, the effect is much, much smaller than a 10% loss in power, because 10% would be very noticeable to me. Is any loss occurring?? I am not sure. If it is, it is hard to find in a back-to-back run of 87 vs 93 octane fuel, at least up to 90 mph.

    Here are some quotes from the Infiniti Operating Manual that came with my car:

    "Use unleaded regular gasoline with an octane rating of at least 87 AKI." , "You may use unleaded gasoline with an octane rating as low as 85 AKI in high altitude areas", and most interesting"You get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load".

    The funny thing about octane requirements, is that once you have satisfied the basic need, that additional octane rating is of no use at all.

    The octane requirement may well be different on later G35s with their higher engine rated power, as Infiniti may have squeezed the tuning differently in order to advertise more HP . Funny thing is, the newer ones don't seem to be any faster than the 260 hp G35s. Go figure.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Funny thing is, the newer ones don't seem to be any faster than the 260 hp G35s. Go figure.

    Didn't they increase the curb weight along with the horsepower?

  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    The manual for the G35 Coupes is very specific, unleaded PREMIUM fuel only.
    I should have made that distinction earlier. The models are tuned for different fuel recommendations.
  • Our G35x is a late 2005. Took a long trip -- Yellowstone -- when it was nearly brand new. We DID vary speeds, stay off the Interstates some, and pull it down into a lower gear at times. In Montana, we stopped at a Nissan dealer (the V6 is plenty familiar to them) when we were near 2000 miles. The Service Mgr. was really convincing that it could go to 3 or 4000. "We NEVER see any "metal flake" in the oil on the first drain". Now the point. I had thought but he said it before I asked -- "DO NOT use synthetic till you have at least 10 - 12,000 miles on it!" he said. "It won't "Break in" properly if you use synthetic". And as to break in ... if anybody reads Car&Driver, pay attention to the "long term tests" that C&D does every few months!! Lots of times a car with 40 to 50,000 miles has BETTER performance and even braking than it did when new. "Back in the day" when I rebuilt a 283 Chevy, I checked the compression before starting it up. Something like 40 psi. Start it, run it a few times, check again -- then like 65 psi. The rings seat, of course. Drove it 2 - 3 weeks and check (a couple cylinders) ... its nearly 95 psi. A year later (putting headers on) I checked again, and it was like 105 to 115 on all!! Break in!
  • kring5kring5 Posts: 144
    The Synthetics question is frustrating.. I have my 07 G35S coming on 2/7 which I ordered in October and I've had a lot of time to google all about this subject and what I find is two things.

    The main point, is no one knows if Synthetics are good or bad, no one has done any testing of any sorts.

    There is considerable talk that conventional oil is better for the car for the first 10-20K miles, that it helps the car break in better then Synthetic. That Syntetic is TOO slick and actually can get past gaskets and such and leak on a new car. This camp has no evidence to support their statements.

    Then there's a smaller crowd which is made up of those that have/follow European Luxury/Performance vehicles and most racing teams. Why is it that ALL European auto makers start off from mile 1 with Synthetics and don't do first oil change until 15,000 miles? They must know something right? but again, they don't have any testing evidence to support their action. However they do have very detailed tests specifically on Synthetic oils vs Conventional Oil, where Synthetic outperforms conventional in every possible way when it comes to heat, viscosity, purity, breakdown, smoke point etc... any test you run, Synthetic is the Energizer so to say.

    So what's to believe? My theory is this, and it's a little bit conspiracy, but makes sense and has evidence to support. Synthetic is better. hands down. Conventional oil in North America has a recommended oil change cycle of 3000 miles. Anywhere else in the world, that exact same quart of oil has a 7500-10000 mile change cycle. Synthetic in North America carries a recommended 5000-7500 mile change cycle, anywhere else in the world it's 15000-25000 miles. Why is this? Well I think it has to do with the service industry greed, 80 years ago we all started out with the same service intervals, but over time, the world has realized it's unnecessary, however in North America we stuck with the lower cycle for little to no reason, other then we were building cars of lower quality and lower tolerance. The dealers and auto mfg's are pushing the consumer to get unnecessary service, just like most of the bundled services they offer at your dealer, to drive up profits. at 30K you don't need a tranny flush!

    So I feel that Synthetic from the start is the BEST you can do for your car. and the service interval is around 15K miles or 12 months, which ever comes first. Now I still struggle with not making the first oil change a litle sooner, so I'll pay for a 3000mi change, then the next one is 15K miles. and go from there.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Synthetic oils do offer more mileage between changes.
    In fact, Mobil 1, 20 years ago, offered 80,000 between changes. (It was doc'd on the bottle)

    It is still recommended to change the oil filter and then top off the oil to replace that which was lost in the filter change.
    This should be done at a much more frequent interval, like 3,000 - 3,5000 miles.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Maybe I'm stuck in the 60's but I can't let an engine go for 15K or even 10K miles without changing the oil; and I use synthetic.

    I change at 1000 miles and always find metal in the filter. I change then every 3 to 4K as long as I have the car. I agree synthetic does not break down like petroleum based oil but I believe the problem is contamination and whether you use synthetic or petroleum, they are both subject to contamination.

    Am I wrong?

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I have an 06 Acura MDX

    When I had 2,500 miles on it, I went to the dealer and asked for an oil change.
    This was early, as they suggest the first change at 7,500.

    The service manager sent me home, without my oil change.
    It was explained to me that the oil comes from the factory containing special additives to assist with correct engine break-in and should not be changed out early.

    Dunno... :confuse:
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Not sure about the break-in but the best way to answer your question is to send a sample in for oil analysis the next time you drop the oil at 3,000 miles. I think you'll find it's way early at 3,000 miles and contamination will be almost nonexistant. I recommend Blackstone Labs. They will help you narrow down a good interval for your engine with the oil you're using. And how long a filter lasts is just a function of capacity. There are filters with much greater capacity than 3,000 miles... some designed for as long as 1 year, 25,000 miles.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Thanks. Technology changes I know.

    As for break-in oil. The dealer dropped my oil at 1000 miles. They did not offer any comment regarding break-in and keeping the original oil in the car longer. Of course, that's not to say they would were it true of the Infiniti, but one can hope.

    Noted regarding send a sample out. Good idea.

  • I personally have used synthetic in my 01' TL for the last 4 years. The engine runs much smoother and the mileage is better by about 1 mpg. Recently on a 1600 mile highway trip I got 33-34 mpg at 75-80 mph. Since I live in Florida and synthetic does not break down in the heat it is a big help. I change it once a year, about 8-9 thousand miles. You can feel the difference in the performance. I can only imagine that in the colder weather it will perform even better. It doesn't get thick in colder weather and holds it's viscosity much longer. You have to believe that if some premium auto makers are using it expensive brands that it does have it's advantages. They would not risk engine failures due to oil. I think overall the advantages are great, dealers do not want to do it because of the cost.
  • Not sure if this helps . . or if its even rational, but a buddy of mine is a Lexus Tech out east. He told me one day, well before I bought my g35x, "Dude, would you buy a chainsaw and cut twigs with it for 2 weeks before you finally cut down the tree? Drive what you buy like you're going to drive it from now on." It may not be good advice, but I like the simplicity :).
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Very true.
    I had a friend who had his Dodge Challenger engine rebuilt by a very reputable local company.
    He asked about engine break-in and they said to just drive it, no worries.

    I still break my new cars in in the recommended way.
    No hard braking or acceleration, vary speed and rpm, that sort of stuff...

    But look at Ferrari.
    They hand build their engines, even forging their own blocks.
    They don't break the engines in.
    As soon as a car leaves the assembly area, it goes right to the race track in the back yard, where every model is driven right to it's limits and tested before it ever leaves the factory.

    So, I'll continue to break my cars in, but who knows what it's actually getting me.
    The investment makes it worth the effort and hopefully, it adds to the longevity. :)
  • During the first 12K Follow these recs to obtain max engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle.

    Avoid driving for long periods of time at constant speed, either fast or slow. Do not run engine over 4k RPM.

    Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear

    Avoid quick starts

    Avoid hard braking as much as possible
  • kring5kring5 Posts: 144
    It's actually only for the first 1200mi not 12,000
  • Sorry.....

    No good deed goes unedited
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Yup... those are typical break-in rules.
  • I worked for Infiniti and know first-hand:

    DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL UNTIL AT LEAST 12,000 miles are on your odometer!!

    Synthetic oil is great, but for the VQ (as well as other engines), it's best to put some miles on it before converting to synthetics. This is to allow the valves to seat properly as well as other mechanical reasons. I would actually wait about 15,000 miles myself.

    You're better off changing the tranny oil to a higher quality oil....especially knowing how hard some G drivers are on their rides!

    Good luck!
  • I picked up my 2007 G35X about 12 days ago. In order to get black on black with all the toys I took a car driven on test drives which had about 600 miles on it.

    I was concerned about how the first 600 were layed on the engine, but not concerned enough to wait for another Black on Black to arrive.

    Here's hoping "being gentile" for the first 500 or so isn't too big a deal as I have no idea how the first 600 went on. Though observing the folks test driving lead me to believe they weren't "going for the gusto" with the salesman in the car.

    My test rider was a 2007 Sport, I didn't get on it until we were on route 95, and even then it seems that 3800 RPM takes you to about 80 MPH, fast enough for a test ride.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I visited a dealership in Warwick, RI and drove an 07 G35x, Black on Black, as my tester.
    We didn't just drive that thing. We beat on it. I was actually surprised at what the salesman had me doing. He really wanted to show the seemingly limitless abilities of this vehicle, and did just that.
    It was an awesome 45 mintue test drive.
    I honestly hope your car witnessed calmer test drives than mine.

    I called my salesman 2 weeks later and said let's do it, I want one.
    Blue Slate on Black with the Tech and wood trim packages are next to impossible to find. I was asked if I wanted to wait or take a car with 300-400 miles on it.
    I chose to wait.

    2 days later, he found an unsold one on the boat coming in, and my 6 week wait turned into a 2 week wait.

    One week to go.... :)
  • Did the Black on Black you drove in Warwick have NAV and wood trim?
  • I'd like to know when you had your test drive (date) I getting a little nervous that I bought that tester.

    As I asked earlier, did the terster you drove have wood trim and NAV?
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501

    No, it had Aluminum Trim and didn't even have the Premium package.

    Are you buying from Warwick?
    Did you take a trip to the satellite lot?
    That driveway (road) is narrow and incredibly curvy.
    The salesguy put me in the passenger seat and drove us up that road at 70 MPH.... the car handled it incredibly well.

    Once out there, I saw the Slate Blue and another car which had the Graphite Interior with Wood Trim.
    I was set on color from then on.

    I do not like the after-market OEM wood trim though... very plastic looking and missing buttons show the aluminum trim underneath... YUCK!
    It does not compare to the factory installed African Redwood. :shades:
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    What did you do when you worked for Infiniti? Also, the 2007 G35 calls for the specific Nissan transmission fluid only. Not the usual "or similar"... "or approved."
  • My first post to Edmunds, so forgive me for not reading through prior discussions on this subject.

    The "break in" of a new vehicle was thoroughly explored in a magazine several years back...I think it was "Corvette Fever". Chevrolet (like virtually all manufacturers) recommends taking it easy for the first 1K miles or so....but the message was for all cars. Here's the bottom line, which I think explains a lot of the mis-information on this subject:

    The engine itself is mostly broken in when the car is delivered...certainly broken in enough that it won't hurt anything to run it fairly hard. However, the "system" of engine, transmission, U-joints, drive shaft, differential, half-shafts, bearings, axels, etc., have not been broken in as a "system" where all the parts that were built independently are forced to work together. there are some small alignment variables during assembly, so the independent parts need "break in" with each other. So, the reason for being gentle on the car has to do with this "system" getting aligned, worn in, meshed, or whatever you want to call it. You don't want to put a lot of force on the "system" until everthing seats in and works together.

    That's not say you would do any damage to the car by romping on it immediately. My personal opinion is that some small amount of hot rodding doesn't hurt, and any damage would not show up for many thousands of miles, if ever. But I can't see that it hurts to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, either.

    As for oil, I've posted widely on this subject in other vehicle forums. The whole subject of waiting for 10K miles or so before converting to synthetics is total BS. I would simply point to the long, and ever increasing list of cars that come from the factory with synthetics and recommend using only synthetics: Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, Viper, and on and on.

    I'm not going to get into it in this post, but you can think of "synthetics" as very pure oil. You can also think of "conventional oil" as very dirty synthetic. It's all oil; there's no harm in using synthetics in your car from the start, and you will get the benefits of using synthetics, which is mainly thermal stability...the oil doesn't break down under heat as readily as conventional oil.

    And in closing, I'll add a couple of other comments: 1) There's no industry agreement as to exactly what "synthetic" means, and in fact, there was a lawsuit over this subject some years back, where Mobil lost out. Group III, IV, and V (and soon-to-be VI GTL) base oils are all considered "synthetic"; and 2) The cars with very long change intervals (Porsche @ 20K miles; Mercedes out to 30K miles, etc.) all use synthetics. However, those oils for European autos are certified to ACEA (European) standards, rather than SAE, IPCEA, or Jaso standards (SL, SM, GF-4, GF-5). You can go to your local Walmart and check it out....the Mobil1 "Extended Performance" oils all meet the ACEA standards (as well as SAE/IPCEA standards), while the regular Mobil1 does not. What you are getting in these "Extended Performance" oils is some extra additives to protect during long change intervals. The Europeans are way ahead of the Americans/Japanese on this subject of extended drain intervals.

    Any of you can check it out on Google with the various buzz words above, but I'll try to write more later.

    The Lurkin Merkin
  • sportsfansportsfan Posts: 27
    Here is another question for you:

    Is it true that the only difference between premium and regular gas is that premium burns slower? My friend says he is a ASC mechanic and that I am wasting my money, if i put premium in my 06 g35x; because it runs on regular.

    Is this true? I've tried both regular and premium. The mileage is pretty much the same. I only get about 200 miles per tank. I have 3627 miles on it so far (bought the car in late november)

    thanks in advance for your help ;)
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,631
    Thanks for joining in. It's pleasant to read posts from people who actually know what they're talking about & cite sources.

    There are several other threads that would benefit from your post, some devoted entirely to oil, so if you're that way inclined, you could comment in those as well.

    The BMW folks are especially anal about this sort of thing, as am I.

    Thanks again & welcome aboard.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    It doesn't burn slower, but is harder to ignite from compression. The engine in the G is a high compression engine, meaning the pistons compress the mixture of fuel and air more than some before the mixture is ignited by the spark plug. By compressing the mixture more, it makes a bigger "boom" when it does fire, giving more power. Now sometimes with regular fuel the mixture will explode just from compressing it before the spark plug ignites it. This is called pinging, or knocking and this is how a diesel engine works without spark plugs. The octane of a fuel is just a measure of its' resistance to doing this. Higher number octane on the AKI (Anti-Knock Index), the more it can be compressed without knocking. Now the reason you can use regular fuel in the G also is because it has a knock sensor. When it detects knocking it retards the ignition timing, but this gives you less power, and according to some, less MPG. Personally I've never understood why someone would spend $30,000-$40,000 for a SPORTS sedan and then reduce the power to save $.20 per gallon. But that's just my opinion.
  • yogiowneryogiowner Posts: 117
    i agree with you that it is not to bright to spend money on a sports sedan, then chince on the gas. I've been putting premium in for the past few months for that very reason.

    the manual says it takes regular, but i put the premium in. i have a friend who says that premium is a waste of money. however, i think the manufacturer recommends it for a reason.

    thanks so much for the thorough explanation. Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.

    i just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).

    i just love this car.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).

    I've also heard a lot of owners say that their gas mileage has gone up since hitting approx 3,500 miles.
    You had any luck in that dept?
  • yogiowneryogiowner Posts: 117
    I am looking for that seems as though i am getting an extra couple of miles. I've been measuring/monitoring per half tank. This week, it seems to be a bit better. I am about fifteen to twenty miles better on this half tank than the previous. I was getting roughly 200 per 15 gallons. This week I am at 174 miles (on the trip odometer) with a little less than 1/4 of a tank more than I typically had at the same point.

    I primarily use, Mobile, BP/Amoco or Lukoil gasoline (premium). I tried Hess - didn't feel right and burned very very quickly. I had the same issue with Shell gas.

    Any suggestions on gas would be greatly appreciated...
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I find it hard to go by just the gauge.
    I go to the pump and fill it until the handle clicks (full tank)
    I also set my trip meter back to 0.
    I then drive and when I go to get gas again, I fill until it clicks again.
    I then divide the miles by the exact amount of gas (gallons) it took to fill, which gives me mileage per gallon.

    I'm currently at 19.34 miles per gallon, with 1,800 miles on the car, at approx 50/50 city/highway travel.
    Some people are reporting as high as 25 50/50 driving.

    I'd love to see that, but I knew what I was buying when I got this car and I'm happy with borderline 20 MPG with the amount of performance this thing offers.
    I know my mileage would go up some if I could just calm my right foot down. :P
  • newcarmannewcarman Posts: 55
    Good Day

    I have the G35X 07 and my car was getting about 13MPG when i first got the car. After about 2500 miles now im getting about 14.3-15MPG a little better but not too much.

    I have a question regarding oil. The manual says for both the filter and oil it takes 51/8 quarts of oil.

    Its strange because it seems to be short when the dealer put whatever amount they put in and also my auto mechanice put 5 quarts and it was short 1/2 a quart.

    So whats the real amount of oil does the car take including the filter???
    In addition it seems somewhat different trying to read that dipstick can see where the oil is on the stick how far up.

    I hope someone can tell me whether the manual is wrong and should be more oil for an oil change.

    Even if the dealer put in the 5/1/8 quarts it stillw was hort 1/4 of a quart.

    Thank you
  • 99rams99rams Posts: 19
    Hey guys just wanted everyones input on this Im gonna be heading down the shore this weekend its about 100 miles and all of it is highway and i'm hoping to take the G only thing is I have only 200 miles total on the car. and with the Break in on the motor I dont want to mess anything up or have prombles later on down the road. If you were me and had a second car would you take the G35 down or the second car?
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Enjoy the weekend in your G.

    With low miles, just be sure to vary RPMs on the highway.
    This can be easily done by changing from 5th to 4th and then after a few minutes, back to 5th .... every once in a while. (Assuming 5AT)

    I just don't recommend Cruise Control during the break-in.
  • 99rams99rams Posts: 19
    Yea, its a 5AT. Thanks for your input Scott
  • rmcneicermcneice Posts: 20
    Got about 450 miles on the car now. With a couple of fill up's and a variety of driving (some highway and much street) I seem to be getting about 18 MPG. Not as bad as some others have reported, and hopefully room for improvement as more miles get added onto the odometer.

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Just wait Bob... I was told that once I hit 3500 miles, it would improve.

    With my 50/50 city/highway commute, I now have 3100 miles.
    If I keep it in drive (D) and relax, I am getting 22.1 with my mixed driving, and 27.7 on the highway.
    If I put it in Manual mode and drive a little more on the exciting side, I'm in the 18's.

    Not too bad at all!
  • Hi Guy's,

    Just drove to Montreal and back from Providence,RI for Grand Prix. Kept (what is for me) a reasonable speed as my, nervous, lady friend was with me. styed at about 80 MPH the entire way using my trusty valentine detector. Never made 20 MPG.

    Even watching the fuel economy indicator, more like 18 on the high way for me. 5500 miles on my G35X.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Alan, just out of curiosity, what type of fuel are you using?
  • I only run premium. Usually Shell or Mobile, but only and always premium.

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Very strange.
    I'm easily in the mid-20's when I'm on the highway... but I'm a little under the 80 mph mark that you're cruising at.
    I wonder if the extra 10 mph had something to do with it :confuse:
This discussion has been closed.