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Infiniti G35 Engine Break In



  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501

    No, it had Aluminum Trim and didn't even have the Premium package.

    Are you buying from Warwick?
    Did you take a trip to the satellite lot?
    That driveway (road) is narrow and incredibly curvy.
    The salesguy put me in the passenger seat and drove us up that road at 70 MPH.... the car handled it incredibly well.

    Once out there, I saw the Slate Blue and another car which had the Graphite Interior with Wood Trim.
    I was set on color from then on.

    I do not like the after-market OEM wood trim though... very plastic looking and missing buttons show the aluminum trim underneath... YUCK!
    It does not compare to the factory installed African Redwood. :shades:
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    What did you do when you worked for Infiniti? Also, the 2007 G35 calls for the specific Nissan transmission fluid only. Not the usual "or similar"... "or approved."
  • My first post to Edmunds, so forgive me for not reading through prior discussions on this subject.

    The "break in" of a new vehicle was thoroughly explored in a magazine several years back...I think it was "Corvette Fever". Chevrolet (like virtually all manufacturers) recommends taking it easy for the first 1K miles or so....but the message was for all cars. Here's the bottom line, which I think explains a lot of the mis-information on this subject:

    The engine itself is mostly broken in when the car is delivered...certainly broken in enough that it won't hurt anything to run it fairly hard. However, the "system" of engine, transmission, U-joints, drive shaft, differential, half-shafts, bearings, axels, etc., have not been broken in as a "system" where all the parts that were built independently are forced to work together. there are some small alignment variables during assembly, so the independent parts need "break in" with each other. So, the reason for being gentle on the car has to do with this "system" getting aligned, worn in, meshed, or whatever you want to call it. You don't want to put a lot of force on the "system" until everthing seats in and works together.

    That's not say you would do any damage to the car by romping on it immediately. My personal opinion is that some small amount of hot rodding doesn't hurt, and any damage would not show up for many thousands of miles, if ever. But I can't see that it hurts to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, either.

    As for oil, I've posted widely on this subject in other vehicle forums. The whole subject of waiting for 10K miles or so before converting to synthetics is total BS. I would simply point to the long, and ever increasing list of cars that come from the factory with synthetics and recommend using only synthetics: Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, Viper, and on and on.

    I'm not going to get into it in this post, but you can think of "synthetics" as very pure oil. You can also think of "conventional oil" as very dirty synthetic. It's all oil; there's no harm in using synthetics in your car from the start, and you will get the benefits of using synthetics, which is mainly thermal stability...the oil doesn't break down under heat as readily as conventional oil.

    And in closing, I'll add a couple of other comments: 1) There's no industry agreement as to exactly what "synthetic" means, and in fact, there was a lawsuit over this subject some years back, where Mobil lost out. Group III, IV, and V (and soon-to-be VI GTL) base oils are all considered "synthetic"; and 2) The cars with very long change intervals (Porsche @ 20K miles; Mercedes out to 30K miles, etc.) all use synthetics. However, those oils for European autos are certified to ACEA (European) standards, rather than SAE, IPCEA, or Jaso standards (SL, SM, GF-4, GF-5). You can go to your local Walmart and check it out....the Mobil1 "Extended Performance" oils all meet the ACEA standards (as well as SAE/IPCEA standards), while the regular Mobil1 does not. What you are getting in these "Extended Performance" oils is some extra additives to protect during long change intervals. The Europeans are way ahead of the Americans/Japanese on this subject of extended drain intervals.

    Any of you can check it out on Google with the various buzz words above, but I'll try to write more later.

    The Lurkin Merkin
  • sportsfansportsfan Posts: 27
    Here is another question for you:

    Is it true that the only difference between premium and regular gas is that premium burns slower? My friend says he is a ASC mechanic and that I am wasting my money, if i put premium in my 06 g35x; because it runs on regular.

    Is this true? I've tried both regular and premium. The mileage is pretty much the same. I only get about 200 miles per tank. I have 3627 miles on it so far (bought the car in late november)

    thanks in advance for your help ;)
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,142
    Thanks for joining in. It's pleasant to read posts from people who actually know what they're talking about & cite sources.

    There are several other threads that would benefit from your post, some devoted entirely to oil, so if you're that way inclined, you could comment in those as well.

    The BMW folks are especially anal about this sort of thing, as am I.

    Thanks again & welcome aboard.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    It doesn't burn slower, but is harder to ignite from compression. The engine in the G is a high compression engine, meaning the pistons compress the mixture of fuel and air more than some before the mixture is ignited by the spark plug. By compressing the mixture more, it makes a bigger "boom" when it does fire, giving more power. Now sometimes with regular fuel the mixture will explode just from compressing it before the spark plug ignites it. This is called pinging, or knocking and this is how a diesel engine works without spark plugs. The octane of a fuel is just a measure of its' resistance to doing this. Higher number octane on the AKI (Anti-Knock Index), the more it can be compressed without knocking. Now the reason you can use regular fuel in the G also is because it has a knock sensor. When it detects knocking it retards the ignition timing, but this gives you less power, and according to some, less MPG. Personally I've never understood why someone would spend $30,000-$40,000 for a SPORTS sedan and then reduce the power to save $.20 per gallon. But that's just my opinion.
  • yogiowneryogiowner Posts: 117
    i agree with you that it is not to bright to spend money on a sports sedan, then chince on the gas. I've been putting premium in for the past few months for that very reason.

    the manual says it takes regular, but i put the premium in. i have a friend who says that premium is a waste of money. however, i think the manufacturer recommends it for a reason.

    thanks so much for the thorough explanation. Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.

    i just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).

    i just love this car.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).

    I've also heard a lot of owners say that their gas mileage has gone up since hitting approx 3,500 miles.
    You had any luck in that dept?
  • yogiowneryogiowner Posts: 117
    I am looking for that seems as though i am getting an extra couple of miles. I've been measuring/monitoring per half tank. This week, it seems to be a bit better. I am about fifteen to twenty miles better on this half tank than the previous. I was getting roughly 200 per 15 gallons. This week I am at 174 miles (on the trip odometer) with a little less than 1/4 of a tank more than I typically had at the same point.

    I primarily use, Mobile, BP/Amoco or Lukoil gasoline (premium). I tried Hess - didn't feel right and burned very very quickly. I had the same issue with Shell gas.

    Any suggestions on gas would be greatly appreciated...
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I find it hard to go by just the gauge.
    I go to the pump and fill it until the handle clicks (full tank)
    I also set my trip meter back to 0.
    I then drive and when I go to get gas again, I fill until it clicks again.
    I then divide the miles by the exact amount of gas (gallons) it took to fill, which gives me mileage per gallon.

    I'm currently at 19.34 miles per gallon, with 1,800 miles on the car, at approx 50/50 city/highway travel.
    Some people are reporting as high as 25 50/50 driving.

    I'd love to see that, but I knew what I was buying when I got this car and I'm happy with borderline 20 MPG with the amount of performance this thing offers.
    I know my mileage would go up some if I could just calm my right foot down. :P
  • newcarmannewcarman Posts: 55
    Good Day

    I have the G35X 07 and my car was getting about 13MPG when i first got the car. After about 2500 miles now im getting about 14.3-15MPG a little better but not too much.

    I have a question regarding oil. The manual says for both the filter and oil it takes 51/8 quarts of oil.

    Its strange because it seems to be short when the dealer put whatever amount they put in and also my auto mechanice put 5 quarts and it was short 1/2 a quart.

    So whats the real amount of oil does the car take including the filter???
    In addition it seems somewhat different trying to read that dipstick can see where the oil is on the stick how far up.

    I hope someone can tell me whether the manual is wrong and should be more oil for an oil change.

    Even if the dealer put in the 5/1/8 quarts it stillw was hort 1/4 of a quart.

    Thank you
  • 99rams99rams Posts: 19
    Hey guys just wanted everyones input on this Im gonna be heading down the shore this weekend its about 100 miles and all of it is highway and i'm hoping to take the G only thing is I have only 200 miles total on the car. and with the Break in on the motor I dont want to mess anything up or have prombles later on down the road. If you were me and had a second car would you take the G35 down or the second car?
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Enjoy the weekend in your G.

    With low miles, just be sure to vary RPMs on the highway.
    This can be easily done by changing from 5th to 4th and then after a few minutes, back to 5th .... every once in a while. (Assuming 5AT)

    I just don't recommend Cruise Control during the break-in.
  • 99rams99rams Posts: 19
    Yea, its a 5AT. Thanks for your input Scott
  • rmcneicermcneice Posts: 20
    Got about 450 miles on the car now. With a couple of fill up's and a variety of driving (some highway and much street) I seem to be getting about 18 MPG. Not as bad as some others have reported, and hopefully room for improvement as more miles get added onto the odometer.

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Just wait Bob... I was told that once I hit 3500 miles, it would improve.

    With my 50/50 city/highway commute, I now have 3100 miles.
    If I keep it in drive (D) and relax, I am getting 22.1 with my mixed driving, and 27.7 on the highway.
    If I put it in Manual mode and drive a little more on the exciting side, I'm in the 18's.

    Not too bad at all!
  • Hi Guy's,

    Just drove to Montreal and back from Providence,RI for Grand Prix. Kept (what is for me) a reasonable speed as my, nervous, lady friend was with me. styed at about 80 MPH the entire way using my trusty valentine detector. Never made 20 MPG.

    Even watching the fuel economy indicator, more like 18 on the high way for me. 5500 miles on my G35X.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Alan, just out of curiosity, what type of fuel are you using?
  • I only run premium. Usually Shell or Mobile, but only and always premium.

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Very strange.
    I'm easily in the mid-20's when I'm on the highway... but I'm a little under the 80 mph mark that you're cruising at.
    I wonder if the extra 10 mph had something to do with it :confuse:
  • Mind you. I'm not complaining. I didn't buy the G35 with fuel economy in mind. I boughtg it for performance, safety and stellar good looks.....

    I'm okay with a 306 HP rocket delivering 18 mpg on the highway at around 80 mph.
  • wes_888wes_888 Posts: 38
    Hey guys -- what should be the "allowable" top speed during the break in period? I read the manual, it only says not to go over 4000 rpm... nothing about top speed.

    Say I was driving 140-150km/h during gradual acceleration and not going over 4000 rpm.. is that okay?
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I think 130 should be fine. :P
  • miamishapsmiamishaps Posts: 15
    Not sure if this was already posted but these highway mpg estimates are at 55mph. From what I understand all these values will now be recorded at true speeds, ie. 65mph which will cut down on the mileage but give you more legit estimates. My car has a 1000 miles and im getting 20 on the nose.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I haven't done any calculation off the gallons in/miles out for about a week and a half now, but I'm back to my 'spirited' yet reasonable driving habits and I'm in the same range.
    Estimate according to the car is 19.9. :)
  • Hi again guys. I'm really not sure I ever make it to an average of 19 MPG. I have about 5K on my 2007 35X.

    However, I can't say I bought a G35 for the economy of it. It's a beast right out of the box. we also have a new Accord, V-6, 240 HP. Gets better mileage than the infinity, 22 - 23 Highway, but, you're driving in an Accord!

    I'll take the few MPG less for the sheer fun of the G35.

    My still and only issue are rattles in the dash......drives me nuts every time.

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I don't have any rattles, but if there is a temp change occurring after just turning on the heat, I hear a slight sound behind the center stack... sounds a little like sand pouring through a rain stick.
    It doesn't happen very often and it's only when the car is cool and the heater is heating it up inside.

    My other rattle is not the car's fault.
    At night or on cloudy days, my sun glasses are in the overhead holder... and they rattle. Drives me nuts.

    I agree... I bought this car for all it offered.
    I wouldn't have bought it if it was only getting 7 mph, but I'm super happy with the car, and the balance it offers on MPG vs Performance.

    Oh, and now that you're an owner... it's Infiniti, not infinity.
  • kb124kb124 Posts: 60
    My salesman indicated to go ahead and drive as normal. But he stated if during the break-in, if there were to be a lot of highways miles, then avoid the Cruise Control. He said the engine will break in best if there is variety to the driving speed. Whereas the Cruise Control would tend to keep things too steady.
  • nycg35xnycg35x Posts: 1
    Just picked up a 2007 black/charcoal G35X. Had 32 miles leaving the lot, around 450 right now. Most are highway, some in Manhattan. Used cruise a little on the highway, but that lasts literally a minute or two until I can't help myself downshift into fourth and just fly. I have gotten it up to 5000 RPM, so hopefully I haven't done damage...but I'm varying highway speeds and RPM's, so I'm not too worried.

    Getting right at 20 MPG, only fill up was mid-grade, left the lot with a full tank. Salesman said use 87, but after reading all this, I'm putting in premium from here on in.

    If you're still reading...are those inputs in the center console really video for the main screen??

    Man, I love this car.
  • kb124kb124 Posts: 60
    > are those inputs in the center console really video for the main screen?

    Yes. You can connect a portable DVD-Player or a Video iPod, and go into the Aux mode.

    The cable must have a video line. I got my iPod cable for around $10.00 including shipping on either Amazon or Ebay (can't remember offhand). But to view anything, you car must be in Park and the EMERGENCY BRAKE must be on, otherwise you will only hear audio. Took me to search this forum to find out about the brake part.
This discussion has been closed.