Volkswagen Cabrio Warning Lights and Problem Codes
Claires
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1. Took it through its first car wash (VERY minor leaks...YEA!!!!) but the check engine light came on immediately afterward. I let it dry out for a few hours and the light is still on. It was just checked by a mechanic yesterday and everything was fine. I guess I need to go have the codes run, but has anyone else had this issue?
2. Where can I find an Owner's Manual? It didn't come with one...
3. Does anyone have a maintenance schedule posted online? I can't find one.
Thanks!
Jessica
I am wonder what you paid for your Cabrio. I have a 98 with 52K miles on it and I am thinking of selling.
I have had the check engine light go on several times since I bought my Cabrio new. The first time the fix was taking off and putting on the gas cap a couple of times. Apparently if the seal isn't tight it triggers the light. Have you tried that?
Thanks,
JD
Trying to decide whether this is likely to be a major expensive repair issue or not and whether to finally give up on this otherwise trusty runabout.
BUT, as I further studied it, the warning light would flicker when I was idled. And as soon as I tapped the gas, the light would stop blinking.
It just does it randomly now.
I was reading online about vanagons the other day, just for kicks, and I happened to come across an oil pressure related problem that someone else posted. I don't know if this is any revelation to MY problem, or the problem you have encountered. But it seems to make sense. It might just be sending a wrong signal out.
Here's what the other poster wrote:
Problem: Oil pressure light comes on under 2000 RPM
I recently experienced a problem with my Vanagon that seems fairly common. When the engine is hot and I stop at a light, the oil light begins to fade on. It doesn't go off again until the engine revs above 2000 RPM. (An explanation for this behavior is given below.)
EXPLANATION: While there is a "high" pressure switch and a "low" pressure switch, they both cause warnings when the oil pressure drops too LOW. Since "too low" is a bit of a subjective thing in an engine, VW decided to implement two standards. The higher the engine RPM, the higher the oil pressure should be. If you have just one oil pressure switch with a setpoint low enough (say 4.4PSI, 0.3 bar) to not engage at idle, that leaves way too much slack for when the engine is at high RPMs when the engine should have at least 13.2 PSI (0.9 bar) . The "low" pressure switch is used to alert the driver if the oils pressure dips too LOW while the engine is running at less than 2000 RPM and the "high" pressure switch is used to alert the driver if the oils pressure dips too LOW while the engine is running at more than 2000 RPM.
Mine seems to peculiar in that it comes on solid, not flashing. Nobody seems to be able to explain this.
There are 2 categories of causes:
Incorrect oil sensing system - Your low pressure switch may be bad. According to Ron Salmon of the Bus Depot, there are 2 specs of sending units from VW and one has a lower tolerance than the other. Your oil pressure may be hunky-dory, but the sender doesn't think so. It could also be a bad connection somewhere.
Also, check the connections on the oil pressure warning systems. Sometimes connections to the idiot light and from the sending unit can get weak and cause a false alarm.
Real oil pressure problem - don't panic yet, it may be simple. Some people have reported that Fram and other non-VW oil filters cause higher pressure drops because of restrictive flow. Try a VW "Autobahn" oil filter. Also, I was running SAE 30 oil; try 20W50. Another common problem is the oil pressure relief valve may be sticky.
Does this make sense to anyone else?
My car runs fine... it's just randomly the light blinks.
I was just wondering, what hose it was that had been replaced to get rid of the 'check engine'. ? .
actually my 'check engine' light went off now, and the 'air bag' light came on; but i just want to know for future, in case it comes on again . .seems that it's just playing games. ...
I have a 1998 cabrio that i bought used from the original owner. when i bought the car she told me that after it rains or if the car has been sitting for a while (a couple of days or more) the first few times that you press the brake, the car will make a screechy, grinding sound. And, yup, it's true. i've owned the car for 3 years, and it does make a scary sound after rain or sitting. i've been told that it's due to either a little bit of dust or rust on the brake pads. nothing to worry about. the brakes also squeak frequently, but that's b/c the rims get really dirty and the dust settles on the brake pad. if i am diligent about cleaning the rims, the sound disappears.
hope this helps.
-sambhavi
thank you again ...
I bought this car over a month ago now.. (it's a 2001).. and it began making noises (as you have mentioned after rainy days usually).. the brakes were squeaky, the car engine light came on, and the airbag light came on.. then after reading some of the comments made by different people, i became worried that i might have got ripped off.. your feedback really helped me though. ..i feel better..
Headlight blew out one bulb
The reading lights don't work
The radio needs to be activated (new battery de-activated it)
I hope it's gone on for one of these reasons nothing mechanical.
Thank you!!
If the radio is in safe mode than you need to go to a Volkswagon dealer so they can give you the code for it.. .
It's a safety option, so thieves can't steal it..I had to do it for mine. ..
My engine light and airbag light is also on.. the car has been running very well though..
hope this helps
The coolest thing happened yesterday, the check engine light WENT OFF! WooooHoooo!!
My check engine light has been off for a while, but sometimes it comes back on again :mad: .. fortunately right now it's been off for a while...:)
the airbag light doesn't seem to wanna go off though. .
These lights just play games sometimes you know . .
The engine light goes off and on 7 or 8 times a day on mine sometimes. ..
umm... i've been having more of a problem with the airbag light.. it's been on forever..that's definitely gotta be a defect... I don't think it's an electrical problem..
I just traded my 98 Wrangler straight across for a 98 cabrio. The car had 89,000 miles on it some surface rust, but overall very good shape. The dealer had the car listed for 4200.00. In the trade, I know I got the worse end of the deal but the gas in the wrangler was killing me.
Kelly
I hope I can shed some light for a few of you about the check engine light issue.
I have a 99 GLS and I kept getting a P1582 code when my check engine light came on. It was also hesitating when pulling up hills etc. It is a manual transmission, so I could control the "lugging-down" of the engine to minimize the hesitation, but I could not eliminate it. The P1582 issue has to do with Emissions. We tricked it many times to get it to go off, but eventually could no longer pass the DMV inspection. Over the course of a year or so, we did everything -- changed all hoses, spark plugs, spark plug wiring harness, updated the muffler etc. Here's what we eventually found:
In the air intake and throttle assembly, we sprayed throttle cleaner and used a brass bristle brush to clean the crud that had collected there. The crud didn't let the throttle reach a fully closed or fully open position...hence the emissions problem. I also have a perpetually quirky position # 3 spark plug. It sparks "dirty" and usually requires the plug and plug wire to be replaced. Between keeping an eye on that plug and keeping the throttle and air intake area clean, I've not had further trouble. Good Luck. My Cabrio now has over 127K miles on it.
Hallkane
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It involves the flap in your air intake.
It does not have its usual full range of motion.
P1582 ** Idle Adaptation at Limit
P0171 ** Fuel Trim,Bank1 System too Lean
P0442 ** EVAP Emission Contr.Sys.(Small Leak) Leak Detected
& now P0506 (new) ** Idle Control System RPM Lower than Expected
Note I found this link which lists all the code details for the 99 Cabrio at:
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/vw/vw.dtc.table.htm
My machanic said I need to have a new mass air flow sensor replace to take care of at least one of the codes. I need to do a smoke test to find the leak in the emission control system before he could give me an estimate for repair. But he not even addresed the idle issue yet as this code did not show he ran the engin check read out.
PS: He also said that the crankshaft forward seal is leaking & should be replaced some time soon. Is this a difficult area to access & are the parts rather expensive as the current estimate is about $550. I am going to seek a few other estimates before I comite to the repairs.
Also another good link I found....
https://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/62/99622977.html
Again feedback & suggestions welcome.
Char O.
MI, FL
You can't speak for the care of your car before you bought it, but I'm the single owner of mine. We have kept a log of all repairs, oil changes etc on our 127K miles. We have never had a seal leak or mass air flow issue etc. If you have the engine hesitation we had, with the check engine light, using the brass bristle brush with spray carbeurator cleaner on the flapper in your air throttle seems worth a try before all the other expenses. The little rod that holds the flapper, had crud on the rod..and wouldn't let the flapper swing open and closed to its max. We were flabbergasted by the simplicity of the repair for all our headaches. To be sure, we've had other repairs (a starter, water pump, shocks, wheel bearings) but nothing as troublesome as the P1582 issue! I have no complaints about the repair needs of my VW -- except for that one.
Hallkanea
Can you help out?
mte2
Any suggestions?
Thank you Kurt
p1296 - fuel air control
don't remenber code number but is was coolant temp incorrect
i cleared the codes as the car seems to be running fine and they have not returned
any help?
2.0L with 69500 miles. recently purchased.
Anybody have this problem before?
To top it off, the check engine light isn't even coming on. Did a bulb burn out?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dino
I gassed up the car yesterday, and it is a 99 cabrio.
I just bought a used 2001 Cabrio and yesterday a warning symbol appeared on the dash. It looks like an engine with a lightening bolt through it. The car still runs but I don't want to damage anything by continuing.
What do I need to do?
Thx. Celeste
The latest fixes I can remember:
The stalling out problem in the rain was resolved by simply replacing the coil. I have had some similar issues in the past after filling up like some previous posts and one time I think replacing the fuel filter helped but we never really figured out what exactly the problem was there.
Wheel bearings have always been a problem on this car and have had to repair/replace several times.
In addition, the car's underneath always seems to get rusted out around the muffler, etc. and eventually leads to having to weld the pipes together or replace the entire exhaust sysytem..
My little temperature light had been coming on, which ended up being a leak in the coolant tank.
My check engine light is now on, which my repair guy says is because the car needs a new cadalytic converter (an emissions thing so will not pass inspection unless fixed) and also needs a new radiator (which is something that has to be done asap).
My E-break light is now on as well which is something related to one of the e-break cables. The e-break still works however. I've always had problems relating to the e-break.
So with several sensor lights on, and several problems on this car in the past, I feel your pain. I have had a lot of fun in this car, but for a 2002 and having been the sole owner of this car, seems like more problems than normal, especially compared with a Honda as mentioned previously. My repair guy agrees.
This is why, despite my love for the car, I have finally decided to move on (after several years of my repair guy telling me to do so) to a Honda or Toyota.
Again, if anyone has particular problems they want to discuss with me, I'm sure I've had them and can make a few recommendations, but my best recommendation would be to trade it in and get a more reliable car, unless you don't do much driving and just want a little convertible to chug around your town in. And NEVER go to the dealer unless your car is still covered under warranty. Go to some one you trust!
I've decided to trade my 02 Cabrio with 138k miles in for a Prius 2010. I am only getting 2300 for my trade-in, which they say is the 'auction value' but you could probably get more if you trade-in at a car retailer that also sells VWs because the KBB trade-in value is more like 4-5k, and it helps to not have a bunch of miles and warning sensors on. I would not trade-in for another VW though. Too many problems and most private repair shops dont have the computers to read the german cars.
Good luck!
I just had the Catalytic Converter and exhaust to the rear of the car replaced and the place that did the exhaust said his two devices couldn't link to the computer either.
If anyone has a clue, please help.
Kelly in CT
Today I had yet another disturbing interlude: after very heavy Florida cloudbursts, it suddenly stalled and died on me at a stop sign. I was able to start it again easily but a few miles later after going through a big puddle, it stalled and died again, and this time it took me a little longer to restart it. My husband sprayed WD-40 on all sorts of parts, and it didn't die on us anymore after that. Of course, he was driving because I wouldn't anymore.
I could go on with more interesting anecdotes, but I don't want to bore you. :mad:
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