General Questions about Leasing Vehicles
Ask 'em here - questions about specific models should still be placed in discussions about those vehicles.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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tidester, host
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Edmunds.com is the only Web site to identify the best lease deals using a numerical formula rather than subjective opinion. The calculation takes into account the average transaction price of the car and then determines the savings provided by the lease.
Currently, the top five lease deals available nationwide are:
2007 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro sedan
24 months, $379/month
30,000 total miles
$954 drive-off fees*
2006 Mazda Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
24 months, $269/month
24,000 total miles
$2544 drive-off fees
2007 Saab 9-7X 4.2i SUV AWD
27 months, $429/month
27,000 total miles
$2999 drive-off fees
2007 Mercedes-Benz CLK350 3.5-liter V6 coupe
27 months, $449/month
22,500 total miles
$3994 drive-off fees
2007 Subaru Outback 3.0 L.L. Bean Edition AWD
24 months, $299/month
20,000 total miles
$2923 drive-off fees
*”Drive-off fees” include lease acquisition fee, first month’s payment and any required capital cost reduction (down payment).
According to Edmunds, of course. Agree, or have you seen a better deal?
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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That is the only recent instance that I can think of.. The total cost for 12 months was around $6K, which isn't too bad of a deal on a lease that short..
Generally, you have to go out to 24 months to get a reasonable deal.. and that is only on select models... If they aren't running a special on the short-term leases, they are way too expensive...
regards,
kyfdx
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There are some lease assumption websites around where you can find a wide variety of short term opportunities.
I’ve been reading a lot of leasing tips but there’s so much involved that I’m becoming a bit overwhelmed and I’m not sure how to apply the information that I’m reading. :confuse:
I’ve been pricing several different cars to see what I can get that fits my criteria. My requisites are: $300-$320 pm, $2500-$3000 TOTAL out of pocket and 15k miles per year. I also need a 3rd row seat and AWD. I’ve considered Saturn’s Outlook, GMC’s Acadia, Buick’s (now discontinued) Rendevouz, Toyota’s 4Runner and Highlander, and Mercury Mountaineer.
I’ll use my experience at the Chrysler dealer as an example. The Touring version had an MSRP of $31,110, dealer said he’d give it to me at his price of $29,110 (now that’s 31,110 - $1500 Chrysler cash for $29,600) and he’s knocking another $500 off. (I didn’t ask for the money factor or residual because I felt the lease payment of $339 he quoted was still too high) Here starts the confusion Edmunds says invoice is $28,588, so did he give me a good price or was there more room to negotiate down??? If there’s more room, how much more? Do I offer $25k? That’s sounds like a good number to me but probably won’t get me a deal. Help!!
Also, is there a better time in the year to be leasing? Is September better than February?
One more question: Is it better to go thru an independent leasing company rather than to attempt a lease thru the dealers’ finance companies?
Thanks in advance!!
Mara :sick:
As was pointed out in another thread here today, generally speaking, this is a good time of the year to lease as residuals have yet to decline.
I assume that you're talking about a Pacifica Touring. If so, your pricing should start at invoice and go down down from there. Figure invoice less rebate less $500 to get your cap cost.
Since you're not in love with a particular vehicle, you really need to shop, shop, shop for a lease special offered by a manufacturer for a term of 36 or fewer months.
So, let me get this straight (using Pacifica example again); if I go in and they've got a vehicle with an MSRP of $31,110 and invoice of $28,588, I should offer something below that number (??). Then any incentives (and my down payment of $2k) are deducted from the agreed upon price (cap cost) to determine my monthly lease payment (in conjunction with the residual and money factor) Right?
So what if after all this figuring the monthly payment is still too high for my thrift pockets? I'm assuming that regardless of all the pencil grinding involved above, as long as I haven't signed anything I can't be held to any of those numbers.
I'm just worried that I'm gonna go back into the dealer, forget my steps and blow any chance I have of getting even a decent deal.
It sounds as though you got a great deal on your previous lease and are now spoiled. You're looking at 30K plus vehicles four years later and, IMHO, you'll likely have to pay more than you'd like.
Straight question... I have a leased vehicle, can I legally rent it out to a friend?
Details... I leased my vehicle, it's through a company and not a bank as far as I can tell, my payments goto the place I bought it from. I have a friend that will be coming up to where I am to work for a week or so every month for at least a year. He takes the train here and wants a car to drive around for work (it's so he can work, but it's not a business car technically). So, when he comes to town by train, and wants my car which he agreed to pay so much per day for, he gets it, pays me, etc...
Since money is involved, I assume it's considered renting or maybe even sub-leasing because I'm leasing it. Only question is, can I actually do it? Do I need to add anything to my insurance? Anything else I need to know?
I checked for my paperwork to find anything regarding sub-leasing, but wasn't able to find anything... but I may not have all the paperwork together. I would ask the place I'm leasing it from, but if it is not allowed I don't want them down my neck thinking I'm going to do it anyways.
Assuming you just let your friend "borrow" your car, there is a good chance that your insurance will have to pay, if he is involved in an accident. If he is at fault, your rates could go up, or you could be canceled.
Risky... riskier if the leasing company or bank finds out there is money involved.
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There are also some companies that handle this all for you but I don't have any first hand experience with them....
Yes, we're here! Generally, the discussions are conducted by the members with minimal input by the hosts.
Regarding financing, you are under no obligation to go with the dealer's financing. Many people who finance get loans from their own bank, credit union or other source.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
However, your dealer also has access to independent banks. Most F&I offices have a terminal that searches up to 50 independent lenders, and they can probably get a better rate than you can (though they may mark it up for more profit).
For popular models that sell at reasonable discounts, the captive financing arm of the manufacturer probably has the best rates, as they have interests other than just what they can make on financing. But, if it is a hot car that isn't being discounted, and there are no incentives, then an independent bank will sometimes have a better deal. But, if that is the case, the dealer will probably use that bank, anyway.
Hope this helps,
kyfdx
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Wow, I need to git me one of them. I still have a 3 ring binder with the rate sheets for the 4 or 5 banks I uses
Be careful leasing through a bank. Allot of times there disposal fees and lease end obligations are allot higher/stricter then a manufactures. We have never had much luck using a banks lease. When you look at all the pieces Ford is usually better 99% of the time
I agree.. The captive finance companies have a vested interest in keeping you happy at lease end. Independent banks will try to maximize their investment..
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When you lease a car, the bank buys the car from the dealer at the price you negotiate, then the bank rents it to you... Whether the dealer uses a captive finance company, an independent bank, or you go through a broker to find an independent bank, the process is the same.
The only differences would be the actual residual percentages and money factor numbers. Independents often charge higher amounts for acquisition fees, as well.
All leases have a depreciation expense and a finance expense (sometimes called a rent charge). No matter who does the lease, they all work the same way.
regards,
kyfdx
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Independent banks generally send all of their cars to the auction.
I think your confusion lies in what happens when you lease a vehicle from the dealer. You don't rent the car from the manufacturer.. The bank (even the captive finance company) buys the car from the dealer, and then rents it to you.. They make money off the finance charges and the acquisition fee. The risk they take (other than bad debt) is that the car will not sell for the residual amount at the end of the lease. Some banks even insure themselves against this risk.
The only difference between a captive finance company and an independent bank, is that a manufacturer may subsidize your lease through their captive finance company. That subsidy is generally not available if you use an independent bank. The process is exactly the same. The bank buys the car from the dealer, and rents it to the lessee.
Hope this helps,
kyfdx
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Now some further questions:
Given that the captive finance company is going to buy the vehicle from the dealer, are they the ones actually setting the residual value?
Also, wouldn't the captive finance company care what the negotiated cap. cost is since that affects how much interest they will make?
Finally, does the dealer only care about what the capitalized cost is since that is what I assume the finance company pays them? Of course the dealer could mark up the money factor too, which I heard they do, but besides that.
Yes.. and no.. If they set the value artificially high, then that money has to be made up somewhere.. usually in an incentive from the manufacturer.. So, it depends on where the manufacturer wants to put the incentives. An independent bank would use a company like ALG to estimate future residual values. Captive finance companies have additional agendas, which is why their rates are sometimes better.
Also, wouldn't the captive finance company care what the negotiated cap. cost is since that affects how much interest they will make?
For the bank, it is just like a car loan.. They make money off how much is being borrowed, but they don't want you borrowing more than you can afford, and they don't want to loan more money on the car than it is worth. Other than those two items, they let you and the dealer worry about negotiations. The bank really has no stake in the price paid. The difference in finance charges is minimal in relation to the big numbers.
Finally, does the dealer only care about what the capitalized cost is since that is what I assume the finance company pays them? Of course the dealer could mark up the money factor too, which I heard they do, but besides that.
Yes... to the dealer, a lease is just like any other sale. They are concerned with the price. And, just like if you bought the car, they can make money by marking up the financing and associated fees. A lot of dealers like leases because many people don't understand them, and a lot of costs can be hidden from those that can't do the calculations. That isn't a lot different from getting a loan in the finance office, though..
regards,
kyfdx
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regards,
kyfdx
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Here's my experience.
I was looking to take over a short term lease, so I went to the websites swapalease.com and leasetrader.com. This is what I learned:
Swapalease is cheap but unreliable - most of the cars on swapalease are already sold, often several months out of date.
Leasetrader however is pricier, it charges fees for membership and creditchecks everyone so giving the impression of running a tight ship, in which every buyer and seller is properly vetted. BUT, it will happily take a transfer fee from you for cars that are simply ineligible.
This is what happened - I paid Leasetrader $150 to organise the transfer of a Ford Escape, but the financing company, US Bank, refused - they didn't permit transfers on cars that had less than 13 months left on the lease. The Ford should never have been advertised on the site, Leasetrader should never have taken my money to push through the transfer, but instead, now I have no car, Leasetrader has my $150 and they're refusing to pay it back on account of "it's not our fault, it's the seller".
AVOID LEASETRADER.COM!
Otherwise, you just have to turn it in - you can't sell a vehicle that's not yours.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Total number of miles in contract
/
Total number of months leased
x
Number of months into the contract
Is that what you mean?
e.g., 48,000 total miles / 36 month lease = 1333 miles per month x 17 months into the lease = 22,666 miles (the number of miles you should be close to at this point in the lease to avoid over-mileage charge)
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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However, a 16,000 mile per year lease would be somewhat hard to come by. Most are 12,000 which is on the low side for a typical passenger or commuter. The mileage penalty adds up fast at 20 cents per mile or so.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thats just what most are advertised as. But you can do any mileage you want. The payment will just fluctuate. It makes it higher but it is still cheaper then paying the overage
I'll bet it's pretty close!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-mike
Depends on how far you go over. For instance on a Fusion the difference between a 12K py and 15 K py lease is about $14 per month. So basic math tells me that over 36 months I will pay a total of $504 more for the benefit of 15K py. If I stuck with the 12K but drove 15K my mileage charge would be $1350. A difference of $846. I believe I would pay the extra $14 a month if it was me.
I shoulda picked a better lease term!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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Yes, it makes perfect sense and the answer is, apparently, that none of us know of such a tool. But then the calculation is simple enough, as Kirstie clearly demonstrated, that there is really little need for such a tool. To find out where you should be, simply multiply the miles you're allowed by the fraction of time you have used up.
However, if you need help in calculating the number of days from one date to another, you can use an online date calculator such as this one.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My main question is this, given that I am making the deal for a lease on 2 vehicles will my bargaining position be better or worse.
Does it help me to do 2, or should I try to get the best deal on 2 different transactions?
Thanks,
Jerry
Second, do you consider yourself easy to finance? That is, do you have good credit?
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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I'm still doing some homework, but I'm looking at possibly
2 Toyota's - highlander and camry
2 Honda's - pilot and accord
2 Mazda's - mazda3 and mazda5
I like the Mitsuibishi Outlander also, but not sold on it yet.
The mazda portion could become a mazda3 and cx9 -
One car needs to be 15k miles the other 12k, the 15k is basically a commuter vehicle.
The SUV is a little more flexible.
Just remember to make your offer(s) reasonable and you can wrap the deal up quickly.
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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No
I would like to know how you set depreciation percentage and whether you use the original MSRP and the new purchase price for the payments or the suggested purchase price and the new agreed upon price.
This is an becoming a more popular way to lease especially expensive vehicles and SUVs and I think its worth shedding some light on.
Thanks
Greg in CO