GMC Jimmy Squeaks, Rattles and Noises

rherna56

i have a 2000 gmc jimmy slt 4x4. i get a noise that vibrates the underneath the passenger side more but also feel on the driver side, noise that only happens at about 25-30 mph and get a bit louder when at higher speeds, doesnt happen when at a stop and reving the rms to 2-3000 rpm.
i guess that could rule out exhaust, but it sort of sounds like an exaust leak. i hear could be the transfer case, im not sure what that box is underneath, its flat and has a drain plug...
any ideas???

whiteink

Wondering if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction here. I have a 2000 Jimmy and it seems that every-once-in-a-while the front end begins to squeak terribly. I thought it might have been because the Jimmy tends to have problems with the manufacturers ball joints, but they have all been replaced and it is still squeaking???? It might just be my imagination, but I think it is happenning when the temperature gets around 76-85 degrees.

Sound description: Sounds like a wagon squeak. I can push down on the front end and it squeaks. It's more like a very loud "CREEEEEEEEEK". ??? Hope that helps. Anyway, I'm not to automotive savvy so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
whiteink.

blaze4x4

Grease the front end. Upper and lower ball joints, steering linkage, and A arms... about 10 locations total.

lskarvan

Could anyone please tell me what the noise in the front hub could be?

stever

Check out this thread here:

jhighland, "Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions" #2581, 31 Jul 2006 12:23 pm

repairdog

Hub is failing most probably - just did my 01 and both ball joints (lower was really trashed) and one hub had a slight give or several thousands wobble so I changed both - 85k on this Blazer. Blazer is now tighter than new in the front and the 65up shimmy gone.

mikesmith06

Hello,

Well not 10K goes by with something new, now my battery died on me, fine it was a 2000 GMC jimmy with about 98K on it, so I replace the battery, but there is this humming whirrling sounds coming from the front end, I open the hood, its impossible to pin point due to engine noise, but could it be the ALTERNATOR? When I start it up its running around 12V if i hit the accelerator it shoots up to 14V? as well my odometer digital readout is dims then goes bright when the vehicle is idling, but when im driving with the accelerator pressed its nice and bright, anyone please help, I hate having to pay those GM wrench monkies $80 an hour to tell me everything is fine....

mikesmith06

As well everytime I start my 2000 Jimmy the gas tank goes to full, then when I start driving it stablizes a bit but never less than 3/4's? could this fuel sending unit be messed up with the going of the alternator......

repairdog

If you just replaced the alternator check the 2 pulley up front - the fixed idler and the spring loaded tensioner - all go by 100k so remove the belt and spin them and that should tell you.

repairdog

If it did not do it before could be. Did you install it yourself and connect the main positive cable before the plug in connector so its polarized right. Is your battery good. 12.6 volts with engine off then 13.5 to 14 at idle from alternator.

jpearce21

I have some play in the passenger side front hub and a grinding noise. Needs replacing, that's obvious. Need cash and time, too. Noise began 2 days ago. Anyone know how long or how many miles I can wait before I've done irreparable harm? I need about 5 days or so.

guest

No way to tell - keep the speed down and no long trips and you may be OK - when it really stars screaming stop.

jguyer

Mine is a 2000 Jimmy, 2WD. There's no axle spindle nut. Are the three hub to knuckle nuts the only thing I need to worry about? Or do I need to have a pro remove the old and press the new hub in place?

jpearce21

Just finished my own 2000 Jimmy (2WD). No pressing needed. Just unbolt three bolts to knuckle and it about fell off the car.

repairdog

Yes, thats correct. Need an 18mm wrench. Unplug the ABS sensor line up about 2' on the frame rail at the connector and may have 1 or 2 other retainers to avoid the suspension cutting into the wire. Good time to check those brakes and grease the slide pins.

repairdog

Mileage? Have to narrow it down. At constant speed, accelearting, coasting/slowing? Going straignt or turning? When brakes applied? If unsure get up to noise speed and put in N and rev it, repaet, determine when - better/worse/same. Could be one of many things.

rherna56

only has 66,000 miles, no vibration on steering wheel, only happens when i getting up to speed, same when brakes applied just gettes quieter because im slowing down, hear its the wheel bearing can cause that. just had the balljoints replaced and arms but was happening before it was replaced....

repairdog

That could be but low miles for them but whoever did the ball joints had to put the hubs off so they should have tested them - if not jack under lower control/ a-arm so CV doesn't bind up and spin the tire/wheel and listen for grating and then you can pull the tire at several positions and watch inside on the backside of the hub where the CV axle shaft passes thru the hub for play.
Then this could be dragging brakes - rears will cause shake in the vehicle or out of round rear disc/parking brake drum or rear calipers sticking (common after a brake job - always replace rears as single plastic composite piston) - had them all before. Of course this assumes the tires are properly balanced and get a Force balance that the machine checks tire roundness and weight as well as the rim to rules that out. Then many other areas to look at and even the front end alignment can cause - should have been done after the ball joints! Then theres U-joints to check. Most good aligmnet shops can pinpoint the cause.

lincoln6echo

I have a Humming Noise that happens when I get up to speed on the roads. I checked to see if it was the wheel bearings(on all 4 wheels), by moving the wheels to see if there was any play. There was NONE. I am now trying to figure out what else could be making that noise. If the road curves to the right while I'm driving, the noise stops. It is a 02 2 door, 2wd Blazer, 4.3L V-6. THIS IS ANNOYING AS HELL! This is the best way I can describe it.

repairdog

Was there any grating/grinding feel in the front bearings - thats the clue. Mileage? Tires changed recently (tread noise or inflation pressure) or any strange wear (alignment). U-joints OK. Transmission full? Rear diff full? Rear pinion gear noise? Then any engine acc doing it like AC, PS, alternator, idler or tensoner pulleys?

lincoln6echo

"repairdog".....Thanks for replying. I have no grinding activity at all. The tires have not been changed recently, but there is still plenty of life left in them. I'm very ontop of the tire pressure(I keep all tires at 32psi). Alignment is fine, my truck doesn't pull to one side, even when braking.
I apologize for this one--> but I don't know how to see if my u-joints are bad, so I have not checked this out. Tranny fluid and rear diff fluid is what I'll check next. I'll have one of my friends help me check the rear pinion, and everything else mentioned, and I'll keep this posted and let you know where I stand. THANK YOU!

lincoln6echo

Okay, I've narrowed down the humming noise to the front left wheel. I jacked up the truck and spun the wheel freely. I could tell then that this is where the noise is happening from. Then, I took off the wheel, removed the caliper and then spun the rotor and it still made this strong noise. I am guessing that I will have to replace the wheel bearing. I can't think of anything else that would cause this. Nothing in the engine, it's not the tires, and I'm pretty sure this would be the problem. Unfortunately, they only sell the bearing with the hub assembly together at any parts store for like $200. But on "Rockauto.com" I can buy the wheel bearing by itself for like 13 bucks and have someone press the new bearing into my stock hub.

repairdog

One piece hub is NOT rebuildable - have to buy the assembly - older models used the separate bearing. Both Advance and AutoZ carry the hubs but do not get the cheapest bargin ones they fail.

lincoln6echo

Okay. I'm going see what I can do and keep ya posted on what's happening. Thanks!

lincoln6echo

SO.... I'm going to buy a wheel bearing/ hub assembly next week. One of my friends works at autozone, so he may be able to get me a 20% discount...which is good because after tax I'll only be paying $170, and it comes with a 1 yr' warrenty.

My only question now is, is replacing the entire hub assemlbly managable or is this gonna be a pain? The bolts are not rusted so I hope this goes well....THANKS!

rherna56

good luck i tried to replace mine my self and got everything apart bought brand new part on ebay for $95 shipped, so i was excited, well problem is the bearing is machine pressed in so u will have to take everything off totally off the car and bring to a shop to take off and pressed back in, i confirmed with pep boys and even online, dont bother. im bringing it to pep boys they will put my part in and just pay labor and they just wont warranty the part... no other choice i guess.... didn't feel like taking the hub and all off the truck would have to remove the arm and other stuff, to much... was easy enough oh yea if u r going to do yourself make sure u buy a deep socket 35 mm ususally impact socket they sell at parts america 20 bucks to take off the center nut... then use a puller to pull away from the axle after that if it wasnt machine pressed in it would be easy.

repairdog

Not too hard. The axle hub nut on 4wd is 36mm and the bolts on the rear holding hub on are 18mm (same for the caliper). So loosen the axle 36mm and then jack it up and safety put jack stands under. Remove wheel and then brake caliper and tie off to the side. Remove caliper bracket, then the rotor comes off (if not hit it with a mallet to break rust free). Then unbolt the small bolts holding the ABS sensor wire to front and unclip at frame connector. Unbolt the three 18mm bolts on rear of hub, and use a large 6" 2 jaw puller to pull hub off CV shaft or a block of wood and large hammer (don't destroy the threads on the shaft). That's it - pull new one one and put other parts back on. The new style one piece hubs have nothing you have to press on - must be older hub with separte bearings (pre 98).

rherna56

mine is a 2000 gmc jimmy and it needed to be machne pressed out. i dont know what u had but if its that year u can call a garage or the dealer to confirm

lincoln6echo

Mine is 2wd, 2002 model. Not sure what challenges I will face in the near future, but I hope it's as easy as taking the old one out and putting the new one in

repairdog

2wd is simple no CV shaft and I still have no clue what was pressed out unless he did CV shaft rebuilds (???)

lincoln6echo

I'm relieved to know that this is simple, if you say so. If your question is for me about cv shaft rebuild, I did not rebuild them....only working with wheel bearing.
-Thanks again Repairdog!

repairdog

That CV shaft was for the post above and 4wd.
2wd removal is same as the posts above except no CV shaft to pull out.

lincoln6echo

For Repairdog: I was just curious if I am going to need "a large 6" 2 jaw puller" for my 02 2wd blazer, in order to replace my wheel bearing/hub assembly; or is this strictly for 4wd only?
- Thanks

repairdog

No, 2wd need an 18mm box end wrench that is not a standard one in most sets (socket also not standard) for the 3 bolts and the caliper bracket. Plus the jack and jack stands.

lincoln6echo

Repairdog, first let me say thanks for all your advice. Secondly, I successfully replaced my driver side hub assembly/wheel bearing. All bolts came off with ease(luckily). Once I replaced it, I went for a test drive, and it's so damn smooth and quiet- it's like driving a different car.
-Furthermore, I've discovered through research that this wheel bearing is the worst design ever made on this vehicle. One of the most common things to go on Blazers, unfortunately. I am so happy it's finally fixed! THANKS AGAIN....
-Lincolnsixecho

repairdog

Good to hear - but all vehicles are going to the 1 piece hubs for fast assembly and no service required till they fail.

lincoln6echo

I heard about that....When I was doing a little research about blazer wheel bearings on different forums, all anyone had to say about it was, "they're only good for about 50,000 miles and they're soo damn expensive to fix, I'm going to sell my blazer because of this." Very dissapointing to hear in my opinion, because I dig my blazer....I sure hope other parts of the blazer aren't lacking the quality that the bearing is.$$$$$$$$$$

repairdog

Of the 4 Blazers I have the most went at close to 120,000 but after that many buy the cheapo Chinese ones that do fail. Timken and BCA seem to last well.

lincoln6echo

Yeah, Timken is what I bought to replace my bearing.
One other question for you. Is there anything else I should be ready for to go next that is common?
-2002, 2dr. 2wd. blazer 4.3L 51,900 miles

Thanks, Lincolnsixecho

repairdog

Possible alternator and ac compressor around 75k but varies. Flush the cooling system 3/36 or 3/50k min (not 5/100 GM BS) or the Dex cool will clog things up and get a Stant cap and new 195 thermostat at the same time. Keep the overflow to Hot line when cold so no air gets in the system and you should be good. Do not forget the trans filter soon also (every 50k). Spray the door pins/bushings with white lithium lube to save those too. Finally when you do the brakes for those rears buy "loaded" brakes so you get rebuilt calipers/bracket/slides/pads cause the rears like to stick after just pads - good news fronts are tougher so just pads OK. Good news is the ball joints on 2wds are much bigger than the failing 4wd ones!
They have a few problems but handle well, take a crash pretty well with the frame under them, and ABS works well.

jlflemmons

repairdog, you are a wealth of information. I deal with a lot of questions over on the Hyundai board, but since we bought the kid a '99 2wd 4dr Blazer, I have been reading through your posts.

We bought one with 77K miles, but looks to have been well maintained. Swapped out the shocks (original) idler pulley and belt, and, of course, the stupid door hinge pins. I have never owned a car or truck where the pins have worn out. I guess oiling them a couple of times a year helps, but every Blazer/Jimmy we looked at had the bushings worn out. Strange. Next will be tranny service and coolant, then probably a muffler/tailpipe. Sounds like a baffle has let go in this one (also original). Engine is smooth, and tranny shifts as it should, so we will see where we go from there.

Once again, thanks for all your posts!

Jim

lincoln6echo

This is great info! This will be on my "to do list". Can you tell me what this means tho--> Flush the cooling system 3/36 or 3/50k min (not 5/100 GM BS).
-Thanks.

firstshirt1sg

When I start my 2000 Chevy Blazer in the morning there is a loud ratting noise underneath as if something is loose but after the the vehicle idles for a minute or so the sound stops and is not heard during subsequent starts unless the vehicle sits for an extended period of time, it sounds as if it is coming from the exhaust but my investigations have revealed no leaks or loose part. Can anyone help?

lincoln6echo

maybe check to see if there is a heat shield on the cat. convertor. that maybe loose...and when you first start it up, the heat shieled may be rattling off of the catalytic convertor. It's happened to me like that. Try checking that maybe.

repairdog

3 years/36,000 miles etc.

repairdog

Could be exhaust or you are lucky you have one of the 99-01 Blazers with secondary air injection that has a pump under the radiator that blows air into the exhaust each start for about 1 minute. Also has check valves on the exh manifolds that always internally fall apart and the L hoses (dealer only) burn thru. Look there. Then if a rattle/humming sound open the hood and look at the PCV on drivers side behind the air intake on the valve cover and feel the hose and see if its vibrating - due to throttle cable mount broken, clogged PCV, or vac leak. Next if lifter tap then after oil pressure comes up it stops - change filter and oil and see if that stops it and check the coolant levels cause this often is the first signal that the lower intake gasket is leaking Dex cool into the top of the engine. Hope that helps.

97jimmy3

Hello, I am new to this forum. I just purchased a 97 GMC JImmy SLT and when I back out of my driveway and turn the wheel to cut my back end in the direction I wanna go, or if I am just making a random turn on a street, I get a bang or thump under the truck?? Any Ideas??

jlflemmons

Mileage would help here, but I will start the list with an idler arm in the steering.

2wd or 4wd?

97jimmy3

Sorry about that. The truck is 4WD and has 71,000 miles on it.

jlflemmons

There are others here with more 4WD experience than myself, but if it is a constant sound while turning, check the CV joints. If a single clunk or bang type sound, go with idler arm, steering links, or possibly even ball joints. All of the above are pretty obvious when bad. I like to tell folks that if you can grab one wheel and move it without moving the other, something is hinky in the steering!

repairdog

Normal thing is lower ball joints are bad. Then sometimes its the hubs going if more noise on a turn (jack up to determine). Then the hood hinge bolts can move and pop - gm has a little washer to add that fixes. Could be front stablizer bar mounts also.