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Nissan Quest Brakes



  • swami2302swami2302 Posts: 1
    I am wanting to replace the rear brake shoes on my 2000 Quest. The problem I'm having is that I can't figure out how to remove the brake drums. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I haven't done mine on my '99 Quest. The manual doesn't make it look too difficult. It first says that the drum comes off when the parking brake lever is fully released. Then it goes on for 6 short paragraphs about what to do if the drum doesn't come off easily. :P

    There's an adjuster plug that you remove and then you shorten the adjuster to make more room (clearance) between the brake shoe and the drum. Then you install two bolts into the two holes in the drum. Tighten them gradually. The bolts are described as M8 x 1.25, whatever that means. That's all it says but my guess is that tightening the bolts will pop off the drum. Other people (on other cars) just pound on the drum with a rubber hammer to work it free.

    Let me know if you need pics and I'll try to get my scanner working.

    Steve, visiting host
  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    wanted to see what you guys think, I have posted here befor so you can get the background but the skinny is we have 16K miles on our '06 quest 3.5SL and the dealer is replacing the front rotors again. they were replaced at 8K miles for warping and the dealer at that time said he would put them through warrenty this 8K miles again he is doing it again why???He says there was a "kinda" recall and the new discs are of a better material then the old so they wont warp...may be dealer BS but I wanted to see if anyone had heard anything. I also asked him if the 07 had a different brake rotor...he said no...06 to 07 brakes were exactly the same...any thoughts? seems odd we can not get a cohesive story on this issue from nissan or the dealers.

    ' 06 in NY
  • My 04 Quest pulsated fiercely during braking. Mileage was only 11,000km. Dealer said they would replace the rotors but without telling me, just turned them instead. Now, at 60,000km the problem is back and Nissan Canada still refuses to give me new rotors, citing that they are still "within spec". It should be noted we've had over 21 warranty claims on this vehicle, including one that resulted in a vehicle recall. (my son almost lost a finger in the tilting mechanism of the second row seats)
    We are getting discouraged with what is our second Nissan new vehicle purchase. Don't think I'll be buying another one any time soon.
  • gakpgakp Posts: 1
    help my terrific van is acting up. 1999 with 97000 mi. left front brake continues to hold pressure. i've replaced pads, brake line,caliper and master cylinder. NO HELP. someone suggested abs modulator but not sure and can't seem to find one. Suggestions? thanks
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    Our 05 Quest needs an other set of rotors:

    Original: overheated under 4000 km (no charge)
    2nd set: overheated under 8000 km (50% discount of $340)
    3rd set: overheated under 3000 km (will see the update)

    I only put 17,000 km on this van. If Nissan need me to pay anymore $$, i will never buy any Nissan Vehicle. Also, I will order a set of Frozen rotors and see how long it could last.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results. If it were my vehicle and I had three sets of rotors warp, I would find a good independent mechanic and have them perform the brake job. What your Nissan dealership is doing is not working. He/she will install rotors and pads that they are comfortable with. Not sure I would necessarily go with Frozen Rotors. There are quality rotors for much less. Talk to your mechanic. I had goo d luck with Wagner rotors on my old Explorer.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    Hi, Cirruss

    can u give me some update on the frozen rotors? I am about to purchase a complete set of frozen rotors + Hawk pads!
  • Update - 10,000 miles and the Frozen rotor still good, no pulsing or warping. Haven't had to worry about any brake problems for many months.
  • Yes it is a design problem but it can be alleviated by smooth brakeing. My wife had an Altima and was constantly warping rotors. I have 40,000 on 04 Quest with original brakes. She brakes fairly hard then eases off until total stop. I always try to brake evenly from onset to total stop therefor heat is evenly distributed throughout the stop process. Try it, it works.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I was reading the other day about driving techniques when you first get in the car - if you are gentle with the brakes the first mile or so, you give them a chance to warm up and that also lessens the risk of warping. Hard braking with cold rotors isn't good for them.

    Steve, visiting host
  • Just wondering if you have found a solution to your brake problem. We also have a 1999 model with 90K miles on it. Front driver side brake stuck about a month ago, and we replaced pads, rotor, and caliper. Started sticking again today. Auto parts store recommended replacing the brake line. However, based on your experience, this may not solve our problem. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. I don't want to keep spending money for repairs that may not be necessary.
  • I installed Raybestos QS pads all the way around on our '04 Quest, 87,000 miles, this past weekend. I got them installed just in the nick of time, the old pads were pretty thin. I believe that the rotors had been turned at least once before, and are holding flat, so I left them alone. They appear to be working well, and I'll keep the group posted on their performance and am hopefull for the stability of the rotors.
  • I just had my rotors turned on my 05 Quest at 22k miles. Noticed on the website that there is now a TSB for the "brake judder" problem. TSB states to resurface rotors, new pads and hardware kit and swap caliper pins. Hope my brakes will last, probally will get new rotors once I am out of warranty if problem arises again.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    I still have not replace the rotors on my :lemon: . I showed the Service Bulletin to my dealer. Nissan rejected my qualification of SB and said my rotors were replaced (i paid 1/2 the price). This is totally unacceptable. Should i call a lawyer about this or go arbitration?
  • Just an update on my 2004 Quest Brake problems. About 6 months ago I finally was able to get Nissan to fly an engineer down to my local dealer and work on my brakes which seem to need turning about every 6 or 7 thousand miles. He made some adjustments but clamed he didn't find anything wrong. However, since then it's worked much better, over 8,000 miles and no problems so far including a trip to the mountains... Usually the mountain trip would be all it took to have the brakes cause the vehicle to shake. I get a little vibration but nothing like it has been before. My guess is that the adjustment perhaps made the back brakes work more than the front ones so I didn't get the rotor warpage in the front where the steering wheel would shake but that's just a guess.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Congrats! Glad you to see Nissan stepped and took your claim seriously.
  • Well, it's been about 4000 miles and my front rotors have warped again. I could not get the dealer to perform the Brake Judder TSB my last visit, they just turned my rotors. This time I informed them of the TSB and based on the fact that the rotors have been turned, thay are going to perform the Brake Judder TSB. They have ordered new front rotors, pads and assoc. hardware. I only have 25,000 miles on my 2005 Quest SE.

    Does anyone know if the replacement rotors are of better material or should I expect more brake problems in the future? The dealership said that the rotors were the upgraded ones, I am hoping so. Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    The rotors were upgraded for the 2005 model year. My guess is this may last longer but they probably will warp again. The van weighs in excess of 4200#. Lot of weight to stop esp. if you are doing mostly city driving.
  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    I wholeheartedly dissagree!!!

    My dodge Ram 1500 must weight more then my Quest and so does my Burban... and both of those have drums in the back.

    I have had four service of the brakes on my 06, three new sets of rotors in 22K miles and I am due for another as the shake is back. All have been covered by the dealer (great dealer) and each time interestingly enough they have found the wheels out of balance as well. I am now starting to suspect it may be unbalanced hubs that make the tires go awry and then unbalence the rotors that then heat up ununiformly.. Its just a guess but anything is possible.

    But, lets not let Nissan off the hook by alowing them the excuse that its is too heavy a vehicle to stop, they are big enough tires (I have 15") to put big enough rotors if thats whats needed and there are heavier vehicles out there with much less sophisticated systems that do not have these problems.

    As a side note and to illustrate the dangers of such arguments, early on I complained about a noise in the passengers sliding door when going over ripples or rumble strips, the dealers body guy looked at it, we went for a test ride and he heard it. He felt it was more dangerous to pull the inner door skin off to see if there was a problem inside then to just live with it. he said "its a big box you know and its gonna have some rattles" In a moment of weakness I agreed with him and now that the noise has become more noticeable... he pulls that arguement out of his hat saying " You know , we talked about that..." Untill that door falls off or doesn't latch I have lost that battle...
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    get the frozen rotors if it is due for replacement (remember to replace the pads too). I have a 05, too. The rotors were replaced again and again. My :lemon: could warp those Nissan upgraded Rotors in unless than 3k miles. Now i am using Frozen rotors with hawk pads on all corners, there is not a sign of vibration after 7k miles.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You disagree but support my argument by stating your 2006 Quest has had 3 sets of new rotors in 22k miles. This board is littered with posts about people having issues with the brakes and rotors. Your theory about the hubs is not original. Good luck getting Nissan to replace the hubs. BTW, you can't not simply put on bigger rotors. You would have to change out the calipers and other hardware.

    I'm not giving Nissan a free pass. WE all know the brakes stink on these vans. They are only obligated to replace the brakes up to 12k miles. And despite what you think, minivans are especially hard on because of the weight and the typical stop and go driving. The 4200# I put in my last post does not account for the driver, passenger and cargo. My sister in law has a Grand Caravan that needed new rotors at 15k miles. They drive about 7k miles a year. Your Ram brakes are designed with towing in mind. My guess is the calipers and rotors are just a tad bit larger then the Quest.

    Personally, I go to a private mechanic for brakes. it's cheaper and I get to pick quality aftermarket rotors.

    Good luck with your brakes. I would continue to complain about the rattle in the door. The door won't fly open but it is annoying.
  • xroadxroad Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    New here at the forum. Found this old thread. I hope some of the key people are still around.

    I have a similar problem with my 1999 Nissan Quest. The front left wheel is locking up. I have replaced the pads, caliper, rubber hose, and in the process of replacing the master cylinder now.

    If I release the hydraulic pressure by cracking the line, the caliper will free up the rotor. I did it at the caliper bleeder, then up the line to the ABS distributing block, then at the line between the master cylinder and the ABS block. Releaseing hydraulic pressure at all those points, the locked wheel will free up. So, my conclusion is the master cylinder have a clog preventing the back flow, (right?). If I use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston back, it is very difficult but can be done, after struggling to remove the caliper off the rotor! If I just leave it overnight, the hydraulic pressure releases a bit and the next morning, I can feel the grip is not as tight.

    This happens with and without the engine on. The ABS warning light never came on at any time. You would think the ABS would have a fail mode that would not put a hold on the brakes. When the ABS fails, I thought it would be "removed" from the brake system.

    HELP !!!

  • xroadxroad Posts: 2
    So, the direct evidence of hydraulic pressure release on the line at the master cylinder would release the caliper. The nagging question is why only ONE wheel is locked. If it is the master cylinder, The one clog line would lock up two wheels. So, is it the ABS modulator/distribution block that is downstream of the master cylinder?

    Decided to go for the master cylinder, for a few reasons.

    1/ It is cheaper than a new ABS unit.
    2/ Less work than replacing the ABS, which I'll have to remove the air box and maybe the master cylinder to clear the way.
    3/ Suspicion of the ABS is just a nagging question, not a direct observation of release wheel by releasing the hydraulic.

    $200 master cylinder from the dealer later, it is fixed!

    BTW, AutoZone gave me a wrong master cylinder. I installed it and one of the line will not seal. Turns out their part is different from the original. Got my $40 back and bit the bullet on a $200 Nissan part.
  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    OK guys, need some help and direction here , quickly please.

    Here is the story, we have a 2006 quest with 24K miles. We have constantly battled a vibration problem, mostly brakes. We have been through 3 sets of new rotors and two turn downs, as well as countless (5-6?) 4 wheel balances. most recently we brought the car in for brake vibration and steering vibration again last month, the dealer rebalenced again and found no vibration in the brakes, take the car, on the way home I find the vibrations back...keep in mind this is only at highway speed and comes and goes, slight but feelable. OK, bring car back, go for ride with tecky and sure enough he feels it, OK two days later they replace another set of rotors and rebalence...go back to pickup car and as soon as I turn on the highway I feel it...this time not in the wheel or brakes, but a whole car vibration, turn around and bring it was by then 6pm and no techs around but they will get to it...OK here is where I need the help

    the dealer calls today (Fri) and says they rebalenced the wheels and went for another ride and do not find a steering or brake vibration (as expected) the service maneger says he took it out himnself and does not feel an appreciable vibration, but attributes what little one there is to the back wheels being "chopped" on the inside tread. He insist there is no reason to replace the tires, the chopping he says will not get any worse as long as we keep the tires inflated and balenced properly. By the way, the tires have been rotated according to the recommended schedule. here is my question, why did they chop, there is plenty of tread, i would estimate 30-40K miles left on the original tires. Why do i see so many on this list replacing their tires at 20 or 30K miles?

    The manager is not in Sat so i am going to wait untill Monday to pick it up, even though he says there is nothing more they can do!? It means holding on to the loaner for another day but If they balk I will pay the extra days rental if need be...

    Whats the treadwear warrenty on the oem tires (goodyear 16" not sure of size cause I dont have the car) is it viable to expect goodyear to step in here? It seems rediculiouse that tires would go bad at 24K miles, even though there is plenty of tread.

    Please help here, I know there have been brake issues with the quest, but can they be attributed to the tires?

    06 quest SE
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Well with my experience, there are 2 issues on vibration. First is the vibration you get in the steering wheel WHILE DRIVING. The Goodyear tires were just garbage to begin with and didn't help the situation, and also wore out quickly. Mine was bald at about 29k. I have since replace them with Toyo Proxes tires and it seemed to have helped with reducing some of the vibration. If your tires are truly faulty according to the service manager, you can go to an authorized tire shop that sells that brand and have them replace it but you will have to pay for the pro rated price of the tire (depending how much tread you used).

    The vibration which you get WHILE BRAKING is due to some design problem with the brakes that no one can figure out. Everyone who has had there rotors machined, or replaced still gets the vibration. I myself have replaced them with the Frozen rotors and it still get some vibration here and there. The strange thing is if the rotors were truly warped, then you should feel the vibration each and every time. With my vehicle, I sometimes feel it and sometimes don't, so this leads me to believe it's not the rotors and maybe something else.I have pretty much given up on getting the dealer to fix anything and just live with the fact that there are some magical design flaw with the suspension/brake system. It's not because the dealer is not willing to help, but it's just that there is no fix for it.
  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28

    Thanks for the input, and I agree with the brake situation...on mine it seems consistent, when the rotors warp i can usually feel it. Funny because i nor my wife drive hard, and we have even become a bit gunshy while braking to insure we leave ourselves more then enough room to stop...but they seem to keep warping. If I have to replace a set my self I will definately go with high tech aftermarket like the frozens.

    I do not understand what the deal is with the tires though..Mine have almost no treadwear, are surely not worn at 24K miles but now have a inside tread chop? I also find it odd some folks have had such terrible wear and others not...driving habits can't be that much different.

    Anyway...I guess I will see what nissen says, i am going to ask the service manager for a way to get in touch with nissan...does anyone here have any insite how to go about doing that?
  • mbquestmbquest Posts: 1
    My 2004 Quest SE will crank but not start. This will not happen every time, but is getting to be most of time. Happens in both hot, cold, wet, dry weather.
    Dealer replaced fuel pump & immobilizer amplifier antenna (receives signal from coded keys) but still not fixed. So far I can get van started if turn key on (not cranking) for 2 seconds, off for 5 seconds & repeat three times - then the van will usually start. Any ideas? Nissan has no clue.
  • tgdillardtgdillard Posts: 1
    HELP!!! I hope you still check this forum! We are having the Exact same problem-the OTHER message board I sw you one did not make mention of the AutoZone issue, SO we went and bought the part from AUTOZONE today-at our wit's end really-exactly what was wrong with the AZ part-my husband is losing faith in me at this point b/c EVERYTHING i have found online that he has done-has just not worked....and he is driving me batty! Was the brake still locking up with the AZ part? Is that why you returned it or was it visibly not fitting properly? THANKS!
  • famof3kidsfamof3kids Posts: 160
    I've got 61k on my 04 Quest SE. Changed the rear pads at 45k and the front pads now need changing. At 45k miles, we did have some minor warping/surging from the rear rotors, but, once they turned them and put on the new rear pads, all has been ok.

    Also, I think I remember something about the SE having the system that directs the braking load to the rear if it detects weight in the back (?). Having three kids in the back most always might explain why my rear pads wore out first and the fronts are just now needing replacing.

    We did, at around 10k miles have the TSB performed for the front brake pads. Seems there is some issue with the calipers not fully releasing and the pads/roter scrubbing. Automotive oddities like this is exactly why I always return to the dealer for maintenance issues.

    I don't remember the TSB number, but, I'm sure you can find it via Google or somewhere.

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