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I'm not giving Nissan a free pass. WE all know the brakes stink on these vans. They are only obligated to replace the brakes up to 12k miles. And despite what you think, minivans are especially hard on because of the weight and the typical stop and go driving. The 4200# I put in my last post does not account for the driver, passenger and cargo. My sister in law has a Grand Caravan that needed new rotors at 15k miles. They drive about 7k miles a year. Your Ram brakes are designed with towing in mind. My guess is the calipers and rotors are just a tad bit larger then the Quest.
Personally, I go to a private mechanic for brakes. it's cheaper and I get to pick quality aftermarket rotors.
Good luck with your brakes. I would continue to complain about the rattle in the door. The door won't fly open but it is annoying.
New here at the forum. Found this old thread. I hope some of the key people are still around.
I have a similar problem with my 1999 Nissan Quest. The front left wheel is locking up. I have replaced the pads, caliper, rubber hose, and in the process of replacing the master cylinder now.
If I release the hydraulic pressure by cracking the line, the caliper will free up the rotor. I did it at the caliper bleeder, then up the line to the ABS distributing block, then at the line between the master cylinder and the ABS block. Releaseing hydraulic pressure at all those points, the locked wheel will free up. So, my conclusion is the master cylinder have a clog preventing the back flow, (right?). If I use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston back, it is very difficult but can be done, after struggling to remove the caliper off the rotor! If I just leave it overnight, the hydraulic pressure releases a bit and the next morning, I can feel the grip is not as tight.
This happens with and without the engine on. The ABS warning light never came on at any time. You would think the ABS would have a fail mode that would not put a hold on the brakes. When the ABS fails, I thought it would be "removed" from the brake system.
Decided to go for the master cylinder, for a few reasons.
1/ It is cheaper than a new ABS unit.
2/ Less work than replacing the ABS, which I'll have to remove the air box and maybe the master cylinder to clear the way.
3/ Suspicion of the ABS is just a nagging question, not a direct observation of release wheel by releasing the hydraulic.
$200 master cylinder from the dealer later, it is fixed!
BTW, AutoZone gave me a wrong master cylinder. I installed it and one of the line will not seal. Turns out their part is different from the original. Got my $40 back and bit the bullet on a $200 Nissan part.
Here is the story, we have a 2006 quest with 24K miles. We have constantly battled a vibration problem, mostly brakes. We have been through 3 sets of new rotors and two turn downs, as well as countless (5-6?) 4 wheel balances. most recently we brought the car in for brake vibration and steering vibration again last month, the dealer rebalenced again and found no vibration in the brakes, take the car, on the way home I find the vibrations back...keep in mind this is only at highway speed and comes and goes, slight but feelable. OK, bring car back, go for ride with tecky and sure enough he feels it, OK two days later they replace another set of rotors and rebalence...go back to pickup car and as soon as I turn on the highway I feel it...this time not in the wheel or brakes, but a whole car vibration, turn around and bring it back...it was by then 6pm and no techs around but they will get to it...OK here is where I need the help
the dealer calls today (Fri) and says they rebalenced the wheels and went for another ride and do not find a steering or brake vibration (as expected) the service maneger says he took it out himnself and does not feel an appreciable vibration, but attributes what little one there is to the back wheels being "chopped" on the inside tread. He insist there is no reason to replace the tires, the chopping he says will not get any worse as long as we keep the tires inflated and balenced properly. By the way, the tires have been rotated according to the recommended schedule. here is my question, why did they chop, there is plenty of tread, i would estimate 30-40K miles left on the original tires. Why do i see so many on this list replacing their tires at 20 or 30K miles?
The manager is not in Sat so i am going to wait untill Monday to pick it up, even though he says there is nothing more they can do!? It means holding on to the loaner for another day but If they balk I will pay the extra days rental if need be...
Whats the treadwear warrenty on the oem tires (goodyear 16" not sure of size cause I dont have the car) is it viable to expect goodyear to step in here? It seems rediculiouse that tires would go bad at 24K miles, even though there is plenty of tread.
Please help here, I know there have been brake issues with the quest, but can they be attributed to the tires?
06 quest SE
The vibration which you get WHILE BRAKING is due to some design problem with the brakes that no one can figure out. Everyone who has had there rotors machined, or replaced still gets the vibration. I myself have replaced them with the Frozen rotors and it still get some vibration here and there. The strange thing is if the rotors were truly warped, then you should feel the vibration each and every time. With my vehicle, I sometimes feel it and sometimes don't, so this leads me to believe it's not the rotors and maybe something else.I have pretty much given up on getting the dealer to fix anything and just live with the fact that there are some magical design flaw with the suspension/brake system. It's not because the dealer is not willing to help, but it's just that there is no fix for it.
Thanks for the input, and I agree with the brake situation...on mine it seems consistent, when the rotors warp i can usually feel it. Funny because i nor my wife drive hard, and we have even become a bit gunshy while braking to insure we leave ourselves more then enough room to stop...but they seem to keep warping. If I have to replace a set my self I will definately go with high tech aftermarket like the frozens.
I do not understand what the deal is with the tires though..Mine have almost no treadwear, are surely not worn at 24K miles but now have a inside tread chop? I also find it odd some folks have had such terrible wear and others not...driving habits can't be that much different.
Anyway...I guess I will see what nissen says, i am going to ask the service manager for a way to get in touch with nissan...does anyone here have any insite how to go about doing that?
Dealer replaced fuel pump & immobilizer amplifier antenna (receives signal from coded keys) but still not fixed. So far I can get van started if turn key on (not cranking) for 2 seconds, off for 5 seconds & repeat three times - then the van will usually start. Any ideas? Nissan has no clue.
Also, I think I remember something about the SE having the system that directs the braking load to the rear if it detects weight in the back (?). Having three kids in the back most always might explain why my rear pads wore out first and the fronts are just now needing replacing.
We did, at around 10k miles have the TSB performed for the front brake pads. Seems there is some issue with the calipers not fully releasing and the pads/roter scrubbing. Automotive oddities like this is exactly why I always return to the dealer for maintenance issues.
I don't remember the TSB number, but, I'm sure you can find it via Google or somewhere.
It's called electronic brake distribution. it's standard on the Quest.
Where did you hear that Nissan extended the powertrain warranty to 100k miles for the 2004 Quest?
It's one of those hidden warranties...ha. They didn't really advertise it, but, if you push the issue with customer service, they'll honor it. It was a customer service initiative. I tried to get them to send me something in writing, but, only could get an email, which I saved.
They screwed with this forum a few years ago, so, not sure where the messages from all 04 owners ended up, but, if you do a search you should be able to find the info regarding it.
04 Quest SE
This article covers the bases pretty well.
There is a caliper bracket that holds the rotor in. You will definitely need an impact wrench to take the bolts off this bracket. If you don't have one, go borrow one. The brake job itself is same as any other disc brake job - not any harder.
I have an 04 Quest with OEM rotors and when it`s time to change,I want to use better ones rather than the crappy OEM`s.How are the raysbestos rotors and pads?Might give them a try if they are half the price of Frozen.
Really,the Quest rotors are crappy.
Did u have any similar shimmy problems?If yes,what was the solution?
I think I found the source of my steering wheel shimmy.....lower control arm bushings.
I spoke with my mechanic today because I was having issues. he mentioned that during my inspection (end of June), there was some play in the bushings. he shared with me that he couldn't get the bushings through his normal local supply and tried calling the local Nissan dealership. They only sell the entire control arm which costs $$$$. he balked at this and told me if I can find just the bushings on the internet, he would install it for me. I saw that Rockauto.com sells them for $18: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php
This will definitely cure the "thuds" I feel when going over bumps and hopefully the shimmys as well. i tried balancing the tires and while one did need an additional weight, it didn't change much. i would also check the alignment as well. This minivan has a long wheelbase.
The brakes are the hardest thing to have a dealer fix and I don't know why. This was my first mini-van that I leased brand new and I hoped that it would last alot longer than it has with out issues. i have already spent easily over $1200 in supposed repairs to the brakes only to have the problem of shaking and rattling come right back within days of picking the van up. The only answer i have been getting from the dealer is that I need to replace more that just the brake rotors and pads but now it could be the tires or the rims themselves. ultimately after doing all that was recommended, the van still has the original problem of shaking and rattling when you apply the brakes after being being used once or twice.
So I started doing my own research and i am a little bit of a shade tree mechanic, so what i found out was that if i went out and purchased a performance rotors that are slotted for both the front and back. That would stop the problem of the shakes that comes from the small size of the original rotors and not being able to the heat that is created from the use. quoted price of after market performance rotor front and back $180 with tax.. amount already spent $1200. I think the choice is obvious. I'll will update when i'm done with the upgrade and the overall results.
Since you have so much already invested in this vehicle, I would find a good independent mechanic to look at the entire braking and suspension system. I think you have more going on than just the rotors.
My 2004 Quest has 78k miles on it. I stopped taking it to the dealer for brakes about 4 years ago. My indy mechanic does a great job and is much cheaper. He used Napa brakes this past spring for the rear brakes. They work great. Plus he doesn't nickel and dime me.
Good luck and keep us up to date.
Thanks so much.
Also do a google search on "Partsgeek discount codes". I found a 5% discount code for my order.
What's interesting is the bushings for the REAR control arms can be replaced.
Our '04 Quest now has 136,000 miles. After 49,000 miles of regular combined highway / city driving on Raybestos QS pads, the front pads are worn very thin, and the rear pads are worn about 75%. There is a slight shimmy in the steering wheel when the brakes are applied, so early spring I plan to replace the pads all the way around and replace the front rotors. What's the latest on rotors, is frozen still the way to go?
I also had the steering shimmy after the rotor job. The dealer balanced and aligned them and could not fix the shimmy. I took it to a different Nissan dealer-he balanced them and now the vibration is fixed. So if one dealer can`t fix it take it to a different dealer. :shades:
Also what tires did you use? I still have the Goodyear eagle LS2 OEM tires. I got the 04 Quest preowned,so the previous owner must have put those. But from what I have read,these are pathetic. The Yokohoma Avid TRZ are supposed to be good. CR rates the Michellin Primacy MX4 which are available for the -04 Quest as the best tires in that class- for comfort,ride,tread life--basically the topmost ranking. So what were your issues with the tires and what did you use??
And did you have any other problems after 65k miles?? Thanks for the help. But as far as rotors--from all Quest discussions forums I have read here and elsewhere the Frozen rotors are supposed to be the best choice. Hope this helps.
We got our '04 at 49K about 4 years ago. At that time it had the LS2 tires which absolutley sucked, and there was no other replacement available in that odd size. So, being in snow country I found a second set of rims and bought a set of 235-70-16 Blizzaks for winter (sized per someone's suggestion here) and those are fabulous in snow. After a couple of years Tire Rack had some other brand tires available (in tandem with the volume needed for new Chrysler minivan) so I went cheap and bought General brand. I'm not entirely happy with them, they don't seem to balance out very well, so would suggest spending extra on some better tires than General.
Other than that, for what it is the van has been good. We had a transmission module replaced under warranty almost right after we bought it (traced the symptoms down right here on the forum). A new battery. The brakes. New belts (the alternator belt tensioner is a weak design, if yours breaks ask for the Altima replacement parts, otherwise they'll try to sell you an entire tensioner assembly for Quest). At about 120K, a cam sensor for the rear cylinder bank went out, symptoms are not serious (hard starting, runs a bit rough) and the check engine light code traces it down easily. Part is about 80 bucks at Nissan, and very easy to replace yourself. It's had all of the recalls for rattles and stuff. It still has rattles but for the use it gets we don't care. This tank will get us 29mpg on a good day doing about 60mph. Come to think of it, it's appearing that some rust is starting to pop thru down low on the right rear wheel well. Rust holes on something that new would really suck.
And yes - now there are much more options on the tires. Michelin Primacy is supposed to be the best but most expensive followed by the Yoko Avid TRZ. Michelin is supposed to be the quietest and the longest tread life. I still have about 25k tread left on the Goodyears..And as you said,it is good for it is. It is not my main commute- I just needed a spare minivan and it fits the bill perfectly. Got a great deal used as these depreciate horribly due to the quality problems.
Minor rattles present--acceptable,not too disturbing... But if I had gotten the van brand new I would be extremely mad and disappointed as these problems should not occur in a 30k van. :shades:
And right now I am getting 17mpg as I mostly do city stop and go driving and very rarely drive on the highways.
But these forums have been so informative and useful--You pretty much read every problem that happens with the Quest and it`s solution. :P
Other than that, no other problems to speak of. I did a radiator drain and refill, and at 139K the original antifreeze was still like new. There is a nickel sized rust bubble forming on the wheel well just to the front of the right rear wheel. Pretty disappointing,
The price difference between genuine Nissan brake shoe pads and generic 3rd party pads is more than 100%.
I hope my brakes dont start squealing if I use brake pads bought from Auto Zone.
Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
We don't have inspections here otherwise mine would be in the shop. My ebrake died last month, so I'm due for a complete brake job back there I'm sure.
I'd go with aftermarket pads too. You know Nissan is just sourcing them from some outfit anyway, and just putting their brand on them. Who knows if the OEM ones are really any better.
33626 miles (11/19/2006):
original front rotors warped
installed front Frozen rotors
installed front Raybestos QS ceramic pad
installed rear Raybestos QS ceramic pad
kept the factory rear rotors and did not machine them
54000 miles (11/02/2008):
rear rotors started warping and causing the back end to rumble when braking
57400 miles (3/8/2009):
front Frozen rotors warped causing shimmy when braking
installed front Raybestos Advance Technology rotors
installed front Raybestos Professional Grade Ceramic pads (Raybestos replaced the QS model with PG)
64250 miles (4/24/2010):
the rear rotors are really warped at this point but they were the original factory ones that never got machined - ever
installed rear Raybestos Advance Technology rotors
installed rear Raybestos Professional Grade Ceramic pads
At this point, I have Raybestos Advance Technology rotors, and Raybestos PG Ceramic pads on all 4 corners, front rotors are still silky smooth, and good braking with very little wear on the pads. With the new brakes on the rear, the entire van stops like the first day I got it. For those of you who is not familiar with Raybestos, they have been around for a very long time in the brake business. I have been using their products for 20 years now. I find their stuff to meet or exceed the performance factory brakes, and very affordable. As for the ceramic pads, the main benefit is less brake dust. I purchased them from Rockauto.com.
My thoughts on the Frozen rotors are way overpriced and more hype then anything else. For the price of a set of Frozen, you can get 3 sets of Raybestos. My other concern is where they are sourcing these rotors. I don't think they manufacture the rotors themselves. They just dunk them in a frozen bath and then charge you 3X the price.
For those of you who are DIYs, the rear caliper bracket bolts are a lot easier to remove than the fronts when removing the rotors. You will however need to jack the van up, then jack the rear suspension to get access to the lower caliper bolt.
I am feeling pretty good with the setup I have right now. I will keep you guys posted with any future findings.
Any issue with the parking brake setup back there?
Here are some pics showing the removal of the rotor and exposing the e-brake.
E-BRAKE CLOSE UP
PICTURE SHOWING JACK USED TO PUSH SUSPENSION UP