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I tried contacting Raybestos and spoke to a somewhat unfriendly customer rep and was told there is NO warranty on the pads unless it was installed at an authorized shop. My own conclusion after doing some internet research is my rotors and/or pads are glazed. This happens when they pads overheat and puts a glazed coating on both the pads and rotors. This could have happened when my rear rotors were badly warped for the past year and making the front brakes do all the work and causing them to overheat.
Today I went and picked up a set of Nissan OEM brake pads at the dealer. I know factory pads are usually good but overpriced. I was surprised that these pads were stamped with Akebono on them and Made in Japan. The dealer list price was $81 but I had a $25 off coupon from that dealer. After comparing the Raybestos PG Ceramic and the Nissan pads, I noticed the Raybestos was smaller and a bit more loose fitting. The Nissan pads had a much better fitment. The only thing is Nissan pads don't come with shims, so make sure you install them. I had kept the shims from the original set of pads that came with the car when I bought it. I reused the Raybestos front rotors and ended up sanding down the entire surface to remove any transferred material from the old pads. The short drive I had today seem pretty good. Will keep you guys updated.
I love our van and I wouldnt trade it for any other. It's pushing 90k and it still drives great!
What are your thoughts please?
If the mount is broken/torn, that would be unusual for 35K but if a bolt is loose, that could have come like that from the factory for all we know.
A "twisted brake hose" would disable your brakes entirely, so I kinda doubt that's for real.
A worn belt, 50% brakes, possibly warped rotors, those could all be the result of either normal wear or bad driving habits from the previous owner.
All in all, I'd say your only really legit gripe here is with the mount and the warping of the rotors, if they are "out of true". Warped rotors should be part of a safety check.
2. How serious should I treat the control arm issue? It's $700+ replacement job due to 4+ hour labour the dealer says.
3. (Not exactly brake question) The dealer recommended and replaced spark plugs at around 105K miles. How can I tell if they really changed the plugs? Engine was running fine before and after the change, so I have no way of telling. Any simple way to verify?
Here's the discussion
You can probably go a little bit with bad bushings (few months). You'll here some noise when you go over a bump but the control arm itself is fine. It took me several months before replacing mine.
The only way to check the spark plugs is get under the hood and pull one to see if it's new.
If you feel/see the steering wheel vibrate and shake, it's likely the front rotors. If you simply feel the van vibrating and it appears to be coming from back, it's the rear brakes warping. I don't remember the control arms causing vibration.
Anyway.....how did you know the rear wheel bearing needed replacing? I have this deep rumbling sound coming from the rear of the vehicle after 20 mph. It gets louder with speed and levels off at 55-60 mph. I think it's a wheel bearing; mechanic can't find anything wrong but admits it could be in the early stages.
No issues for years with our Quest, we still love it, but, it's getting old, 9 years old now.
I'm replacing the rotors and pads on all four wheels.
I purchased Centric rotors and pads.
They sent me pads that are 1mm too thick, with the net result being a fit that is too tight.
But, I'm amazed at how easy this brake job has been.
Anyone else had problems with the pads being too thick?
2004 Quest SE, 115,000 miles
CD player works 'sometimes'
LCD mileage indicator doesn't always display clearly
No other issues (knock on wood)