I feel like I am being gaslighted. Can Somebody Help? 2022 Wilderness Purchase vs. Lease

DiscodoggoDiscodoggo Member Posts: 4
edited July 13 in Subaru
Now, I decided to buy after VIP discount with Tint/PPF (about $43,910 Out-The-Door) with 16K down at 1.9% APR @ 48 months, bringing my total finance charge to $1008 if I pay the full term.

HOWEVER, the dealer has made it clear I am a nuisance, because I did the rough math on the lease deal they wanted to give me at $554/month, being that I believe the payment is stupid high: Almost as much as my $50k Audi's lease payment was for 42 months 52% residual. Here are the roughs of it:

Looking at leasing numbers, with the vehicle sitting at 64% residual for 36 months with $0 down:

Roughly:
$1780 TT&L (with a tax break for leasing)
+$2139 ppf/tint
+$38216 (Price after VIP)
=$42135 rough OTD total (with the break in tax)*

Original MSRP of $42583 x .64 = 27253.12 Residual

*$42135 total - 27253.12 residual = 14881.88 difference in residual vs total

Total payments of $554 x 36 months = $19994

$19994 Total Payments - $14881.88 (Difference of Residual/Total) = $5112.12 Cost to lease

Ergo leasing will cost me $5112.12 in lease charges (or a roughly $4100 PREMIUM over traditional financing) to lease for 36 months. Or almost $6.5k in lease charges to lease for 39 months at the same residual.

Now, the dealer seems to think that a lease at $554/month is a good deal, and tells me I have no idea what I am talking about. I absolutely feel gaslighted, to the point where the sales person is texting me, "Don't make a mistake, bro," and, "Save your money."

That would the equivalent of me taking out a $15k loan for 36 months at 20% APR if I lease this vehicle.

Is the dealer gaslighting me? Am I missing something? Does the dealer really think I'm stupid for doing basic math and noticing that those payments on the lease would carry a tremendous premium, or am I stupid? They will also NOT tell me the money factor and tells me it doesn't matter. I suspect with the lack of transparency in the deal they are trying to re-coup money through a bad lease, or the lease is bad in general.

They also keep telling me that I am making a bad choice by trying to sell a windshield warranty, saying my insurance doesn't cover it, but my policy specifically says, "...this policy covers the cost of the replacement windshield including the recalibration of your front facing camera through Safelite." I'm beyond confused here.

I've begun questioning my own sanity.

Sound-off below. I'm genuinely curious if I am missing something here.

Comments

  • MichaellMichaell ColoradoModerator Posts: 192,936

    Now, I decided to buy after VIP discount with Tint/PPF (about $43,910 Out-The-Door) with 16K down at 1.9% APR @ 48 months, bringing my total finance charge to $1008 if I pay the full term.

    HOWEVER, the dealer has made it clear I am a nuisance, because I did the rough math on the lease deal they wanted to give me at $554/month, being that I believe the payment is stupid high: Almost as much as my $50k Audi's lease payment was for 42 months 52% residual. Here are the roughs of it:

    Looking at leasing numbers, with the vehicle sitting at 64% residual for 36 months with $0 down:

    Roughly:
    $1780 TT&L (with a tax break for leasing)
    +$2139 ppf/tint
    +$38216 (Price after VIP)
    =$42135 rough OTD total (with the break in tax)*

    Original MSRP of $42583 x .64 = 27253.12 Residual

    *$42135 total - 27253.12 residual = 14881.88 difference in residual vs total

    Total payments of $554 x 36 months = $19994

    $19994 Total Payments - $14881.88 (Difference of Residual/Total) = $5112.12 Cost to lease

    Ergo leasing will cost me $5112.12 in lease charges (or a roughly $4100 PREMIUM over traditional financing) to lease for 36 months. Or almost $6.5k in lease charges to lease for 39 months at the same residual.

    Now, the dealer seems to think that a lease at $554/month is a good deal, and tells me I have no idea what I am talking about. I absolutely feel gaslighted, to the point where the sales person is texting me, "Don't make a mistake, bro," and, "Save your money."

    That would the equivalent of me taking out a $15k loan for 36 months at 20% APR if I lease this vehicle.

    Is the dealer gaslighting me? Am I missing something? Does the dealer really think I'm stupid for doing basic math and noticing that those payments on the lease would carry a tremendous premium, or am I stupid? They will also NOT tell me the money factor and tells me it doesn't matter. I suspect with the lack of transparency in the deal they are trying to re-coup money through a bad lease, or the lease is bad in general.

    They also keep telling me that I am making a bad choice by trying to sell a windshield warranty, saying my insurance doesn't cover it, but my policy specifically says, "...this policy covers the cost of the replacement windshield including the recalibration of your front facing camera through Safelite." I'm beyond confused here.

    I've begun questioning my own sanity.

    Sound-off below. I'm genuinely curious if I am missing something here.

    Leasing is an alternative to a traditional loan. If you plan to keep the car longer than 3 years, buy it, don't lease it.

    I'm pretty sure the money factor (lease equivalent to APR) is marked to get that payment.

    And, as the owner of an Outback, I can tell you that Safelite replaced my windshield and calibrated it with the Eyesight system with no problems. Save your money on the extra insurance.

    Let the dealer wear themselves out with all their talking. At the end of the day, it's your money, and your decision.

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    2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2014 MINI Countryman S ALL4

  • DiscodoggoDiscodoggo Member Posts: 4
    Michaell said:

    Now, I decided to buy after VIP discount with Tint/PPF (about $43,910 Out-The-Door) with 16K down at 1.9% APR @ 48 months, bringing my total finance charge to $1008 if I pay the full term.

    HOWEVER, the dealer has made it clear I am a nuisance, because I did the rough math on the lease deal they wanted to give me at $554/month, being that I believe the payment is stupid high: Almost as much as my $50k Audi's lease payment was for 42 months 52% residual. Here are the roughs of it:

    Looking at leasing numbers, with the vehicle sitting at 64% residual for 36 months with $0 down:

    Roughly:
    $1780 TT&L (with a tax break for leasing)
    +$2139 ppf/tint
    +$38216 (Price after VIP)
    =$42135 rough OTD total (with the break in tax)*

    Original MSRP of $42583 x .64 = 27253.12 Residual

    *$42135 total - 27253.12 residual = 14881.88 difference in residual vs total

    Total payments of $554 x 36 months = $19994

    $19994 Total Payments - $14881.88 (Difference of Residual/Total) = $5112.12 Cost to lease

    Ergo leasing will cost me $5112.12 in lease charges (or a roughly $4100 PREMIUM over traditional financing) to lease for 36 months. Or almost $6.5k in lease charges to lease for 39 months at the same residual.

    Now, the dealer seems to think that a lease at $554/month is a good deal, and tells me I have no idea what I am talking about. I absolutely feel gaslighted, to the point where the sales person is texting me, "Don't make a mistake, bro," and, "Save your money."

    That would the equivalent of me taking out a $15k loan for 36 months at 20% APR if I lease this vehicle.

    Is the dealer gaslighting me? Am I missing something? Does the dealer really think I'm stupid for doing basic math and noticing that those payments on the lease would carry a tremendous premium, or am I stupid? They will also NOT tell me the money factor and tells me it doesn't matter. I suspect with the lack of transparency in the deal they are trying to re-coup money through a bad lease, or the lease is bad in general.

    They also keep telling me that I am making a bad choice by trying to sell a windshield warranty, saying my insurance doesn't cover it, but my policy specifically says, "...this policy covers the cost of the replacement windshield including the recalibration of your front facing camera through Safelite." I'm beyond confused here.

    I've begun questioning my own sanity.

    Sound-off below. I'm genuinely curious if I am missing something here.

    Leasing is an alternative to a traditional loan. If you plan to keep the car longer than 3 years, buy it, don't lease it.

    I'm pretty sure the money factor (lease equivalent to APR) is marked to get that payment.

    And, as the owner of an Outback, I can tell you that Safelite replaced my windshield and calibrated it with the Eyesight system with no problems. Save your money on the extra insurance.

    Let the dealer wear themselves out with all their talking. At the end of the day, it's your money, and your decision.
    Thank you for the input. My attitude towards this is that the monthly payment does not matter: it is the total interest I'm paying.

    I did some calculations, and my MF on this deal comes out to .00205. That's pretty awful. The good news is that I learned how to calculate a money factor.

    Thank you for the answer.
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