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Mazda 626 Starting Issues

lexie4lexie4 Posts: 3
hope someone can help me, i have a mazda 626 1992 model never had a prob with it, this morning i went to start it and nothing, i know 100 percent it isnt the battery, can anyone help me? the dash lights up lights work ty ty ty
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Comments

  • bs24bs24 Posts: 2
    I have a Mazda 626 4 cyl. 1995. It was run off in a ditch and then drove home. After it was shut off it would not start back, the lights inside or outside wont do anything. There is no fire from the fuse box. Anybody know if there is a reset switch or anything that could need pushed?
  • for starters my car overheated. i then replaced the thermostat, and the radiator. i have purchased a new water pump but haven't had it put on yet. i've tried to start my car and it wouldn't. i bought a new battery and still nothing. only the headlights come on. nothing else electrical works. what could possibly be the problem. :sick:
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi - welcome. You might want to check our No Start Problems discussion as well. Hope we can help.
  • lexie4lexie4 Posts: 3
    i had all the same probs are you, i was going nuts turned out my petrol pump had to be replaced my fuel was going through
  • mazda alternator belt fell offi have mazda 1991 626 regular ,manual
    Iwas driving and alternator belt fell off and i replaced it and car doesnt start. Battery is new and alternator just replaced,what could be?.power is ok (sparks are fine , gas is ok)Any ideas Thanks in advance
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Welcome! Hope someone can help you here. If you don't hear from anyone shortly, try the link I posted in msg 4.
  • just got the car ran great.turned it off for work 8 hours later wouldnt fire up.cleaned the cap n rotor still nothing.tryed repetedly and finnally fired up any advice? :sick:
  • 9961699616 Posts: 1
    I've a 99 Mazda 626, 4 cyl. I've taken it to dealorship 3 consecutive times for same problem, 1st time new battery, 2nd time new alternator, 3rd time base line idle was too low, they also checked spark plugs & air intake for leaks. What next, Starter Motor? This morning it started fine, drove 60 miles, stopped for 15 mins and it wouldn't start again! Thanks for your help.
  • working on a 95 4cyl auto mazda 626. Car was given to me and found it was a no start. Used starting fluid and it would started. Performed test and could not hear the fuel pump in the tank. Removed the fuel pump unit and found the pump had seized up and the gas in the tank was really bad ( very bad smell and a red/brown color ) Changed the pump and removed the bad gas from the tank and cleaned out the tank. replaced the fuel filter. Still the car would not start. Could not hear the pump in the tank run til the motor was cranking, but not when the key is first turned on. Checked the fuel pump relay circuit and found no " low side power" to the relay to activate the high side power to the fuel pump. Cant find a wiring diagram to the car, so be having trouble tracking down the problem!! Was hoping someone can give me some ideals on this.... Thanks....Jay
  • tszabadostszabados Posts: 3
    Have a 91 626 gt that stalled on my daughter and hasn't started since. I have checked for spark, there was none. So I CHANGED THE COIL AND IGNITER BOX
    checked for spark there is none.checked all the wiring connections , looked for a fuel cut off switch couldn't find one, checked to see if the distributer reading ok and it seems to be. what else should i be doing?
  • mdatemdate Posts: 1
    I have 1999 Mazda 626, i4, 2L engine. It is stick shift. When I try to start the car, engine makes cranking sound on turning key but does not fire up. After doing the same thing, cranking for 8-10 times it fires up and then car rolls just normal. After the engine is fired up it do not have any problem. But it gives problems in fireing up. What could be the problem with the car?
  • Car will turn-over but won't start, will push start every time on the 1st try. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor and rotor. The guy that had it before me said it overheated and would turn over after that (I found the water pump is bad and am replacing it). I also checked the following with good results; spark and compression form all 4 cylinders. Changed oil and didn't see any coolant/water present so am confident the block is OK. The card has been sitting in this guys garage for about a year until I bought it last weekend and started working on it.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.
  • I just fixed my 96 mazda 626. It was the Crank Positioning Sensor Wires. They were loose and almost broken. I found the broken wires, went to the junk yard and got a $2.00 part and now it starts fine. (when those wires are loose/broken the computer doesn't know where the crank shft is) This part sits on top of the harmonic balance. Good luck :)
  • The Crank Positioning Sensor wires were loose/broken. The computor didn't know where the crank shaft was. It sits on the harmonic balance. I fixed my mazda for $2.00 instead of $400. Yeah :)
  • Mazdas have a problem with the check valve which is part of the electric gasoline pump. The trick to solve is simple: A:change the pump $600.00 or B: simply be patient. Turn the switch on, count to 10 then start. the pump will have filled the line that emptied because of the failure of the check valve. This usually needed only in cases when the car has been off for 8 or more hours.
  • It is the check valve inside the fuel pump. Just turn on and do not crank it for a few (6-8) seconds, then crank it, by that time the pump will have filled the line and it will start like magic!
  • Justfixit, you may want totry what pscantlin did in response no. 14. I'm having the same problem with my 2001 626. Sometimes it will start and sometimes not. When it won't start after 3 or 4 trys, I use starting fluid and it starts; just like you're doing. After it starts, it runs fine. I will probably replace my sensor also before I buy a distributer. I've heard that has been the cause of the same problem on other Mazdas but I guess they are pricy. Good luck.....to both of us.
  • I have a 1999mazda 626 I cant find the fuel pump relay.I checked the one next to the fan relays but the wire color does not match the ones on the fuel pump
  • My daughter has as 626 V6 that has been running great until a month ago when out of nowhere it would not start some times. No matter how much cranking it wouldn't start and then all of a sudden it would start. This would go away for a while and then come back with the same problem.
    Anyone have any ideas?
    Thanks
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,934
    How old is the battery? Does the starting problem have any relationship to temperature, e.g. colder outside, more problems starting?
  • The battery is about 2 years old, but is not the problem. It cranks the car fine for about 10 minutes before wearing down. It charges fine.
    Yes, it has started this issue since it was cold here in MN. I put the car in the my heated garage last night and charged the battery. It fired right up this morning. I'm now wondering if it is due to gas line freeze? I put some Isopropyl achohol into the tank to hopefully take care of that.
  • Have you checked the fuel filter? Dump a can of SEAFOAM in the tank too.
  • Thanks,
    Were is the fuel filter for this car? I know there is one on the fuel pump in the tank, but is there one under the hood?
  • sdlee24sdlee24 Posts: 1
    I pulled into Walmart and parked my car. Car sat there idle for approx. 1 minute and the A/C and radio started to go out. I hit the gas and it all came back on. Soon as I let off the gas the problem continued. I put the vehicle in reverse and drove off. Decided to drive it around for awhile to give it power, but even when I got stuck at the red light, I had to put it in Neutral and hold the brake while giving it gas the whole time. When I finally did park the vehicle and turned it off, it never came back on. We tried to jump start it but nothing would happen. At first the fan would still come on and the windows would still roll down, BUT, when one guy tried to jump start it some smoke came from his cables. Then, when the next person tried to jump it, it did nothing. Wouldn't even click! The keys were still in and all the sudden it beeped like it does if your door is open and your keys are just sitting there. But, it was a fast rapid beep unlike normal and then nothing. My car never would start again. Replaced the battery, nothing. It doesn't click, window is stuck down, fan wont come on, and gauges do not move at all. Someone please help me understand the problem!!! I'm a single mom of 2 and can't afford to take it to a dealership, I have to do it myself. Please, please, PLEASE help me!!!!
  • 1990 mazda 626 2liter 4cylender 180000 miles automatic trany. car will not starte has spark and fuel fuel injecter positive and negative are both hot at the same time with injectors installed in head ground wires do not lite test light up with all injectors out of head and ground wires do not pulse on and off while turning over engine could this be the computer? what year computers are compatible?
  • Have a 97 Mazda, there was no sign of trouble. Ran into the store for 10 minutes then it would not start. Tried a jump and nothing. Get a click from the solenoid and thats it. Been told to try hitting the starter with a hammer and thats my next effort. Any ideas?: Hope someone can help!
  • Hi guys I am also new here and hopefully I can get sum good answeres on my car problems. So it is a 93 mazda 626 4cyl 5spd with 113,000. So a little history on my car. Last year I was having problems with it with the idle air control valve code which ended up being a ghost code, as there was nothing wrong with it. But anyways I bought a used one from ebay and didnt fix the problem, bought a new one from autozone and still didnt work. Bought a good working computer from a junk yard...no go. Then I finally replaced the distributor after much reading and found that the ign system was interanl. Then the car ran great till 2 weeks ago.
    So now to the new problem as this didnt happen when I had ign system problems. I was headed home one day and I noticed my wipers were going slow in the rain then I noticed my tach drop to 0 then back to normal, them my speedometer kept dropping to 0 them back up. Then I noticed all my gauges were dropping and I was loosing power. then the car died and I got to the side of the road. About 20 min later it started back up again and drove 25 miles back home. But while I was sitting there I had no power what so ever as if the alt took a crap and drained my battery. But like I said 20 min later I had all my power again as if nothing was wrong. I am getting a code 34 again for the idle air control valve. I ended up putting in my old computer and drove it 5 miles away and it all happened again lost all power as if my battery went dead. Car wouldnt turn over and no lights or anything again. I just went back out there to try to start it and it acts like my battery is low. So could this just be a simple alt problem, funny tho that waiting 20 min it started back up and had full power when it first happened. I would have thought that it like my other vehicals when the battery is drained from the alt going bad that your not going anywhere. So hopefuly I didnt make this to lengthy or complicated.
  • bt100bt100 Posts: 3
    I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda ( which of course they would say get a new tranny, but I had to know) and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open " ..was causing the engine light to stay on and then they only did a drive test and said that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission right now and was wondering if maybe just the filter is clogged or something simple. I am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone ????
  • Well I installed a new alternator and that fixed the problem. It was just weird that the battery wasnt completly drained and I was able to start it after 20 min with no problems. But I drove it a few more times after this and broke down of coarse. And well the battery did eventually get drained at the end before I fixed it. Yup I know I sound dumb, just never had a battery hold juice after an alternator failure like this thing did.
  • I am having the exact same problem with my Mazda. Sometimes it starts, others it doesn't. It fires up, the starter, battery and belts have all checked out ok. Once, a mechanic sparyed starter fluid into the intake valve and it fired right up, only to not start again 2 days later. Once it is running, it runs perfectly. Did you resolve you issue. Help. I can't go to work without my car and I am broke.
  • I did resolve my issue. It was the alternator that went bad, as it took a few days to finally quit working all together. But prev I had other issues the idle air control valve can go bad which can cause a no start issue. Which I hope youdont have cuz they are expensive, cheapest one I found was Autozone. Also the ignition system is located in the Distributor which cant be taken out and replaced you ahve to replace the entire thing which I bought a new one on ebay. Funny thing is is that I kept getting a idle air control valve code so I replaced that and it wasnt even the problem. It was the distributor whcih threw out a ghost code and the ghost code happen to be the idle air control valve so that was $250 wasted. The distributor I bought on ebay for $125 and it fixed the problem that I first had with the car. And by the way with that problem it would start sum days and others it wouldnt. It would act up when sitting at a stop sign and I would have to give it extra gas to keep it running. I wish I could help you with your problem, as it does sound like a fuel pump problem.
  • cp651cp651 Posts: 1
    Hi, did you troubleshoot your problem? I'm having a similar issue. Something in there keeps clicking , the cd-player seems to be looking for a cd, and this is it. No engine noise, other than the clicks that repeat as long as the key is on. Thanks.
  • I had a diagnostic test run on the car. The problem was the fuel injector processor. No fuel getting to the engine to start the car. The test and repairs were done at Firestone to my dismay. After repairs done and $417 later, I still have the problem. However, now it starts at random. Before it wasn't starting at all. I'm afraid I am going to be forced to take my car to the dealer to find out the REAL problem. Sorry, hope you are more successful than me.
  • Yes I did. In my case, I found the starter, silver soup can looking thing that can be seen if you stand on the passenger side at the rear of the engine compartmnent and look toward the bottom of the engine on the driver side. Had a metal stick, tapped the starter and it started. This worked intermittently for a few months until I finally had to replace the starter.

    Now have a new problem though, battery good, turn the key to on and all the dash indicator lights light up. If I turn to try to start, those lights go to black and not a sound of trying to start. Same thing happens if I press the brake pedal or try to turn on the headlights.
  • have you check the fuel pump relay and the distributor and the injectors use a multi meter and make sure they are all getting signal
  • have you check the relay box in the front relay fuse box in the engine
  • renemrenem Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem (98 Mazda 626 automatic) where I would drive my car to a destination and when I'd get back into it there was no juice from the battery. No lights, not even a click when the key was turned. It was frustrating since the car was running for at least 20 minutes before I stopped and the battery was fully charged. The first time it happenned it was a loose positive terminal connection on my battery (I also scrapped it clean). The next time it was the negative connection - which I also scrapped clean and wrapped the wire with electrical tape. I haven't had any problems since. Neither terminal appeared to be loose at either time and I couldn't move them by hand.
  • my 95 626 2.0 died 3 days after i replaced the alt and battery it was after i got home 4 work 30 miles was home 4 15 min then went 4 dinner made it 1 mile and died i have fuel pressure spark aand my timing belt is ok i called the parts store and they dont list a crank sensor for this car it has been at the shop 4 a month now and we are baffeled
  • My 626 2002 has a similar starting problem. Car turns over but randomly will not start. Found it is important to turn the key into the off position before trying again. Cranking and cranking yields nothing when this happens. We don't drive the car much and the battery tested a little weak in the cold. Charging the car battery at night would always result in a good start. Car battery would accept a charge for about 30 minutes at night. I upgraded the battery to a non standard size I got a Diehard Platinum with 100 extra amps. This new battery charges so fast, it won't ever accept a charge at night. Car worked great for 3 weeks then just happened again. Started ok on a very cold morning, but later going home for lunch another story. The key off and on trick worked. Battery would still not accept a charge when I got home, so not the battery. Thoughts, Distributor or fuel check valve?
  • I am still experiencing the starting problems. I took the car to Firestone and they replaced a fuel processor regulator, which did not resolve the issue. I am leaning toward the fuel pump at this time. I called Mazda service dept and was told it could be the fuel pump going out which accounts for it starting occassionally. If that works, I keep you posted.
  • New battery, New Fuel filter, New Ignition coil, New plugs , New wires, While traveling on the highway engine jerked and than stopped. Had friend bring ignition coil, replaced ignition coil, Mazda fired right up. Drove about 10 miles car stop again, had friend go and get another ignition because first one was loose. Unable to start car, first time car sat fro about 2 hours, second time car sat about an hour. Not able to start.....any ideas?
  • Checked timing no problems, checked fuel pump, still unable to start. Economy light stas on and the hold light blinks on and off
  • scoyotescoyote Posts: 1
    It's either a problem with spark or fuel----are you getting spark at the plugs? Chances are that you have spark to but not thru your ignition distributor--and i believe you can just replace the igniter component. This goes out easily in an overheat condition ? If you are sparking at the plugs--start looking at the fuel delivery end
  • renee14renee14 Posts: 1
    I bought a 1990 mazda 626 lx from a friend that had it and the fuel pump went out and they sold it to me. It had set for over a year. I have put a new fuel pump, new battery, spark plugs and wires, and a new value cover on it. It still will not start. You can poor gas into the hose that goes to the injector and it will start and run for about 3 or 4 minutes just enough time to pull that gas and then that is it.

    Can anyone help me please?
  • The ignition system for a lot of mazdas like my 1993 626 is located in the distributor. When it heats up it will lose its connection and your car will not start. Some times it will reconnect again, most times it doesnt. And I do know on mine and most Mazdas you cant just replace that part of the ignition system. You have to replace the entire distributor. I got a new one on ebay for $125 compared to $200+ at your auto parts store or $400+ and a mazda dealership. Rockauto.com is also cheaper than your auto parts store. So if you guys are in doubt about starting issues check that first or have your mechanic check it. (Mine also thru out a ghost code for a idle air control valve. Which I replaced and didnt need to since it was my ignition system was bad, so that was a waste of $300) Hope that helps folks
  • m__m__ Posts: 2
    change the coil, and the Crank position sensor.
    likley it is the position sensor, but best to do both at the same time.

    M.
  • m__m__ Posts: 2
    get an after market transmission cooler added, should fix you issue quickly.

    about $450.00-500.00 at a reputable shop.

    M.
  • pbhfpbhf Posts: 1
    I have the same thing happening on a '94 626 including turning key off and back on trick. I suspect either fuel pump, relay, or computer. Did you ever find out what was causing your problem?
  • The relay was replaced 1st, then the fuel pump, then the ignition and another part relating to the ignition. The problem is solved. The ignition was the last repair and it works great now.
  • Just enrolled into this website. I have same model year, and similar situations. Wonder, you have got your problem resolved since May. What I have, was intermittently unable to re-start. It usually starts up after a couple hours rest. If I stopped at a store for a short errands. It'll act up when I returned. The engine would cut-off after a roughly 50 yards from the parking. I won't start unless sitting for a couple of hours. I swapped the fuel pump relay and main relay, also replaced ignition coil. It seems not getting any improvement. Wish, some fresh idea can be exchanged.
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