Mazda 626 Starting Issues



  • jbustos22jbustos22 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 mazda 626. car was working fine i went to clean the the acid on my battery, then when i went to leave it wouldnt start unless i pushed started it. thoiuight maybe i just drained the batt while cleaning the terminals but it didnt start later that night. took it to a autozone had them test my batt and starter said both were fine that it was a connection problem. said that sometimes terminals and cables go bad when acid sits too long on them. so i replaced the terminals and still no start. i get power to the car such as my radio and everything but when i go to start it it wont turn over or anything. wont make a sound. batt stays charged for about ten minutes then depleates but i still can turn the headlights on. any help would be great. thanks!
  • 86mazda62686mazda626 Member Posts: 1
    Had a similar problem with my 86 626. Check the relay switch near the battery...push all connectors close to battery together...sometimes that's the problem. Also had a part close to the distributor replaced by a mechanic. Hope that helps.
  • bamabeachbamabeach Member Posts: 2
    The ignition crancks, it just wont start. I can smell fuel... what's the problem. It's been sitting for 2 months, just replaced belts so it would run. Had to replace battery. Ran for a few days... now this! It's the same fuel that was in it 2 months ago... half a tank when it died. Any suggestions would be great!
  • gloving40gloving40 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 mazda 626 and got power to the inside of the car but nothing to the engine and the key will click but nothing else. i cleaned the terms and nothing but got everything to the radio and wipers and a/c but not to the enginre help me with this to figure out driving me crazy.
  • bamabeachbamabeach Member Posts: 2
  • ebuteraebutera Member Posts: 1
    Try using starter fluid to get it going, then test for fuel being delivered (fuel pump, injectors, etc) and spark. Might simply be there isn't enough fuel to get it going.

    And hope it doesn't trigger the "hold" light to flash...if it's an atx. Mine starts flashing if I look at the dash sideways!
  • lalulabellelalulabelle Member Posts: 1
    My boyfriend changed the alternator in my Mazda 626 not too long ago as we were experiencing some problems. We then had to get a new battery and everything seemed fine for a while. Then i noticed that the car would start fine in the mornings and then intermittently during the day (when the car was warm), i had to press the gas pedal in order to get the car to start. Whenever I do this i smell gas inside the car, then it dissappates.

    I dont knwo what the problem could be. About 6 months ago we got a replacement fuel tank as there was ac rack in our old one.

    I also just posted anotehr question asking why oil would be pooling on top of the engine near the spark plugs...any help on either problem would be much appreciated!
  • 2good2good Member Posts: 1

    have something to with it?

    I have a Mazda 99 ES and the car will not start. It will crank but not fire. My dad placed a working fuel pump and now it will not pump fuel, we have the green relay at the EGI. It was getting a spark the other day, but now nothing. There was an after market security alarm connected but that was removed. The picture I am showing is a ground wire that was connected to the wall and we are not sure what other part. Would this ground wire have something to do with the car not starting? Thank you for everyone for helping me.
  • caleighcaleigh Member Posts: 1
    When trying to start my 626 frequently the key turn doesn't seem to activate the starter. However if I push the key in very firmly the car starts just fine. The problem seems to be getting worse and I'm afraid we'll get stranded sometime. Any suggestions would be very welcome. All electrics appear to be normal and the battery never struggles.

  • sparky2012sparky2012 Member Posts: 1
    I am working on a 93 v6 mazda 626 that will not start, took out a spark plug, it fires nice bright blue, took off fuel line at fuel rail has fuel when cranking, checked throttle position sensor, checked crankshaft position sensor down by pulley,Haynes manual shows wiring for 4 and 6 wire mass air flow sensor but this one has 5 wires, it has symptoms of cold start not working if you crank it long enough it tries to start but battery dies first. when it was running if you opened throttle slowly it would pick up but if you tried to drive it when you put foot down to pull away it would have no power and would throw out lots of black smoke from exhaust , this problem occurred in an instant one second running perfect next second problems galore. I have checked everything I can think of, it has two things that i should mention that might throw light on subject.
    1. according to haynes to test cam position sensor remove distributor and backprobe wires to check for an a/c voltage, every time I rotated rotor arm engine cooling fan came on.
    2.The 2 actuators mounted on manifold are supposed to move as throttle is operated,but 1 of them(1 furthest from throttle body was actuating as soon as engine starts.
  • capttheo1capttheo1 Member Posts: 4
    check engine light on-according to owners manual this indicates an electrical problem, ROOM fuse problem or that gas cap is not on tight.. We've ruled out fuse and gas cap. Checked plugs, fuel pump -both fine.
    Bought car privately-used; first problem we noticed with car was interior light seemed to not work-replaced bulb, worked about 3 days then went off again-bulb did not blow-a few days later light started working just fine and have had no problems with it since (in checking the ROOM fuse I noticed that this fuse controls that light also). A week ago temps at night got into the 20's, next morning car had a hard time starting but it did start and had no problems for a few days. The last couple of days it's been a bit hard to start and yesterday my wife was leaving work, it did not want to start-she pushed gas to make sure it was getting fuel-could smell it too. It finely started for her, very roughly but after a couple of minutes it evened out and gas smell went away.
    the belt has squealed when starting since almost the beginning of having it, but belt seems to be fine. Did have a mechanic check out the car before buying it--mechanics only, not electrical and everything checked out at the time.
    Does this sound like a timing chain problem, ignition or what?? don't have the cash to have it tested on the computer or to have it towed to a shop to begin with.. Hoping to be able to fix it at home. :( :confuse:
  • texasmazdafantexasmazdafan Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Mazda 626 V6. This is my second Mazda and I got 200K with my first. I'm now at 106K miles and recently had the timing belt replaced (but not the water pump). Right after that the harmonic balancer actually broke so that was replaced. Had a high pitch squealing right after that and the check engine light began blinking- solid - blinking. Took into my mechanic and they replaced the alternator belt (which they should have done the first time - they only charged me for the belt this time) They reset the light but the light never went out. Car is running fine misfires at all even though the code said spark plugs and catalytic converter. Had problems with gas cap previously and replaced with a cheap Murray gas cap. I'm also smelling gas now (although it could be my imagination at this point since I'm paranoid) Shop said to drive car for a week and see if the light "cycles through". It has not and is still blinking and solid. AT this point I've spent $800 on my car and I have no more money. IS it spark plugs? Room Fuse? crankshaft position? Reset engine computer? If it's catalytic converter I am screwed....please help.
    Texas Chick
  • capttheo1capttheo1 Member Posts: 4
    update, we had the car towed to the dealer. They tried to get us to buy a used engine-said the head gasket was blown. That was fixed, timing belt replaced (which is what was squealing), oil pump was replaced. Driving fine and then last week the check engine light came on again, still driving fine though-have $176, 000 miles on this car. Took it to a car shop had it checked by hand held computer-says it's the emissions control causing the light to come on, turned light off-that lasted about 3 days, light is on again-still driving just fine. Will have it checked again on Tuesday and maybe take to the dealer or another mechanic to see what the exact problem is and how much it will cost. Already spent $1404 and really don't have the cash to repair any more right now..
  • starr101starr101 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 mazda 626 v6 nd it will not start it turns over nd evrything but wont start any help :sick:
  • celticclubcelticclub Member Posts: 5
    My 626 started the same problem last night will be taking it to shop this week will let you know results. have a feeling it is a ground problem.
  • celticclubcelticclub Member Posts: 5
    try ingtion relay under hood drivers side relay located in black blx by firewall.
  • celticclubcelticclub Member Posts: 5
    think i found your problem under the hood drivers side on the wheelwell by the firewall is a black box in that box is a 100 amp fuse will look normal even when bad put a lite probe to both ends of it if lites up on one side only that is your prolberm it controls all power to whole car.
    good luck.
  • texasmazdafantexasmazdafan Member Posts: 3 problem was that the relatively expensive after market harmonic balancer did not work for my car. The only thing that fixed the problem was buying the actual Mazda part for big $$$. At least my service guys only charged me a fraction of the original labor price and allowed me to pay over several months. Apparently the "teeth" on the other part did not line up perfectly and we tried two different brand of aftermarket parts - only the Mazda part worked. Have since replaced my third Radiator overflow tank. These things are pieces of crap.
  • franko4irefranko4ire Member Posts: 2
    car wont run at all was starting it with starting fluid ,had a slow charger on it and have been cranking it ,thought maybe i damaged something for it will not turn over no more any suggestons what to try .in a real bind and all with figuring it out without a test
  • franko4irefranko4ire Member Posts: 2
    not blinking
  • celticclubcelticclub Member Posts: 5
    Well none of this is going to be good news.
    First never use starting fluid under any circumstances it drys out the heads and cylinders, after awhile the engine becomes dependent on it to start.
    Cheapest option now check how much amps starter is pulling.
    If starter does not even click need to see if it is getting power to it.
    Other then that I hate to say this but using so much starting fluid you more than likley locked the engine up.
  • capttheo1capttheo1 Member Posts: 4
    after fixing the original problem we almost got through 2012 without any major problems. Now the check engine light is on or blinks; the car started cutting off when stopped at lights, waiting to turn, etc. Adjusted the idle but that hasn't really helped a lot. Have tried changing the air flow control sensor and the air flow control valve-so far that; cleaned the throttle, checked plugs .. any suggestions?? :confuse:
  • celticclubcelticclub Member Posts: 5
    I haven't had this problem but check the top oxygen sensor and the fuel injectors.
  • stronggum1stronggum1 Member Posts: 1
    Crank no start problem with 98 Mazda 626 4 cylinder. Will not start with starting fluid. I've changed coil pack, fuel pump, crankshaft and camshaft sensors, plugs and wires and still.... no start. I just recently got into the timing and found that it was not correct so I changed it. Finally, it started and sounded better than ever as it stayed running for about a 30 seconds then sounded as if it ran out of gas. I put gas in and it still will not start so I took the plugs off and they were wet. It seems to be flooding excessively more than anything I've ever seen. Can anyone tell me.... what would cause that to flood so easily and quick. I should mention that this flooding has been happening the whole time I was changing parts and trying to fire it up. Can anyone give me some direction here as I am at my wits end
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