I had a 1971 Ford F-250 with automatic transmission that the drive train clunked in when stopping and when pulling off. I was concerned, as I bought it used, but drove it 100,000 miles and never had a problem with it. I finally came to think it was just the driveshaft sliding backward some when accelerating until enough pressure was put on it to hold it in place, and forward slowing when the pressure was removed. There is some play in the driveshaft to allow it to move some, and I think that was all it was. As I said, never gave a minute's trouble, but surely surprised and had me uneasy for a while thinking it was the transmission or rear end.
I had a 1971 Ford F-250 with automatic transmission that the drive train clunked in when stopping and when pulling off. I was concerned, as I bought it used, but drove it 100,000 miles and never had a problem with it. I finally came to think it was just the driveshaft sliding backward some when accelerating until enough pressure was put on it to hold it in place, and forward slowing when the pressure was removed. There is some play in the driveshaft to allow it to move some, and I think that was all it was. As I said, never gave a minute's trouble, but surely surprised and had me uneasy for a while thinking it was the transmission or rear end.
A while back someone had a post about spring hanger related squeaks. I just found out that Ford has had some premature wear on the bushings that are inside the spring ends/hanger assemblies. Apparently there is a nylon bushing at each spring hanger and some of the original equipment parts wear through and fail.
I'm having mine replaced tomorrow. The squeaks started at about 18,000 miles and got worse with cold weather.
Lilelmo, I developed really bad squeaks with the onset of cold weather too. Had my truck in to get the "new" cup holder last week and had them order the parts from TSB99-16-3. There was a broadcast message that changed the original TSB part number since the first fix didn't work. The right part number for the spring isolators is YC3Z-5586-AA. I've also developed loud thumps in my floor when making right hand turns into raised driveways, so I'm calling the dealer to look into the fix for the crewcab bolts. It too came out in a broadcast message, and related to crewcabs built before Feb 25.
Pistolero...thanks for the detail on the TSB. I had the bolts "tightened" on my cab about a month ago. Some posts have mentioned new cab mounts as well. I'm keeping a careful ear out for the thumping. It was as you described.
Thanks for all the good info on the squeeks, bumps, klunks, thumps, springs, nocks, etc. Our friend OTURNER went thru a mess getting his Crew Cab tightened down a while back. I have noticed more klunks, squeeks, etc. since the cold weather set in. Still haven't taken it to the dealer to check it out. Will have it looked at when I take it in to change out steering wheel ... the leather is loose on the two spokes. Glad to see some of the old timers still here!
Well, I had the beast (250 SD CC) at the doctor's today. Apparently, the clunks, pops, etc. are numerous in origin. They showed me several summaries of bulletins.
One showed a problem with the cab bolts & mounts (tighten and/or replace some parts). Another covered clunks in units that have the front sway bar which comes with the camper package, like mine. That's a torque/tighten solution. Still another dealt with squeaking spring sleeves front and/or rears (requires new sleeves at the spring ends).
They had the front in stock and "discovered" the beginnings in the back of a squeak type problem with the rear springs. Parts were ordered for next week. I'm not sure if it's a problem, but when I load, I load. If they want to replace the rear springs under warranty, it's fine by me. I do have to wonder if they just discovered it's a slow time right here before Christmas.
They got the fronts fixed (no squeaks). They tightened the cab again and made note of my specific suggestion (from here) that it might include mounts.
Well I guess Ford just left a few "hanging chads" left to be addressed in this truck. But they're working on it. Good dealer response. Since the last service on the bolt issue, I've had two dealer service surveys come from Ford on the same visit. They're trying.
Us old timers don't go away, we just go driving. Happy holidays to everybody, new and old.
If you're having problems with your F-Series Super Duty, or have advise for those with problems, please visit Pickups Topic 2504, Ford F-Series Super Duty problems. Thanks for your participation. ;-)
2k 250 5.4L auto ESF4X4 4:10LS Supercab 11k. My motor was built in 10/99. I developed a "Tick" when cold, at around 9k miles.Thought it was a lifter or worse(piston slap) Was informed that piston slap problem is non-issue on motors built after 4/99. Changed oil and filter twice to eliminate the possibility of faulty anti-drainback valve in the motorcraft filter. Tick tick... tick! Went to dealer last week for front spring squeek TSB and the "Tick". Dealer says, "we removed your serpentine belt and tick stopped, but we're not sure if it's the belt,alternator or something else. We'll fix it when you come back to have the new spring isolators installed." So I drive home only to find that when they removed and replaced the belt, they made the "tick" 10 times worse!(I guess that's good news cause now I'm convinced it really isn't the motor) For the next three days it was so noisy it would wake up the neighbors when I leave for work! Today it has quieted back down to the intermitent "tick" I had before the shop visit. Shouldn't it have been easier for them to diagnose, and why would they wait until next visit before taking action? Anybody else run into anything similar?
Good to hear from you again shotgun. I've not heard of the tick you describe, but like you said, it sounds like its been isolated to one of the components driven by the belt..
My truck has been just fine. 00 F250 SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS. In the summer I had the cab popping sounds, but the weather turned a bit cooler before I could get it to the shop.. (doesn't happen now).
In the past, alot of folks would inquire about the mpg's. My overall mpg is 15.5. This is mixed city/highway.. I've had 2 tanks average at 18mpg, but this is doing all highway, empty, at 65mph or less. I usually run Texaco or Amoco.
I took a long trip home for thanksgiving where the speed limit was 70mph for quite a while.. The old MPG's dropped quite a bit doing this..
Then I spent a week or so with family in PA. While there, I was again doing alot of mixed city/highway driving only in an area where there are a few more hills. Also I had to fill up at an 'off brand' gas station.. My mpg's for this tank was in the 13's. After my trip back to NC, all returned back to normal.
Prior to this trip, I saw were lots of folks had somewhat different claims of what their mpg's are. My latest experience might confirms to me alot of what we already know. - Speed greatly affects mpg. 60mph vs 70mph - Where you live matters. - Quality of the fuel. (high quality name brand vs local stores 'happy gas'). The the EPA were to put a sticker on my truck, it would say 13/17.
I would be happy to see 13/17 mpg.Now that it is cold in NJ my 99 4x4 ec, v10,373ls is getting locally around 9.5 mpg.Even the trip computer has a case of wishful thinking with a reading of 11.7. I would even be happy with that.Oh well, I did not buy it for fuel economy.Even at a ton lighter, my 93 v8 4x4 Dakota only got around 13 mpg.Of course , it was a hell of a lot quicker until it started to fall apart at 50000 well maintained miles.I'll take the Ford.
I had an Astro van a couple of years back that developed a "tick" in the serpentine belt area. Turned out that it needed a new belt and a tensioner pulley. That's the gizmo that maintains the appropriate tension pull on the belt as it wears and stretches.
My V10,4x4 w/3.73,CC is getting about 11/13-14 in the colder weather. I think part of it is the additional warmup/defrost time fuel burn (I park outside) as well as running the defroster/A-C combo setting. My mileage is best in fall or spring (12/14) with the windows up and the a/c off. These things really suck gas at 70+ mph & having the window(s) down makes it worse. They really have a drag factor. The mpg/speed sensitivity is a function of the size of the hole you're punching throught air and how fast you're doing it.
The new town hall software is completly screwed up.. - If I can find my forum, it claims I need to login before posting, but when I go to login it says I am already. - If I come in and never use the search, I can sometimes get to this window where I can type in post information - Often when I hit the 'post my message' it throws me back to the main window, (and my text isn't posted. ARG) - The text isn't formatting to fit my netscape browser window (version 4.5). Makes it hard to read what others have posted and what I am typing because I have to keep scrolling left/right.) - Forum moderators interested in opening up new threads (like super duty problems) rather than just keeping the current threads working.. I now have to monitor a bunch of threads.. Whereas before I could find anything Super Duty related here (Super Duty IX). - They are going through a time consuming task to re-post folks old questions, (when I think more time should be spent fixing bugs on the new software).
I think its requiring us to 'subscribe' before it actually takes our post.. (At least thats the only change I made between 4 failed attempts to post my gripes above, and one the actually worked)..
Oh, to keep to the SuperDuty topic. Mine is white..
I'll be getting the F250 CC 4x4 Lariat with the standard tires because I knew I would replace them immediately. Does anyone know what the largest BF Goodrich Mud or All Terain tire will fit on the Lariat (16 inch?) wheel? Or, to make it look good, should I switch wheels as well. I'm thinking that I can improve it's looks with just tires, but thought maybe someone out there might have some ideas.
I have a 2000 SD with 2WD,V-10, 3.73 rear end with limited slip. It snowed here in Tulsa and my driveway which is on an incline is partially iced up. I notice the other day that the passenger side rear wheel was spinning and the drive side rear wheel never locked-up. The passenger side tire was spinning fairly fast and in fact, I even gunned it to see if it would lock up but it never did. So, is my rear end defective, or is there something I'm not doing. My previous Suburban had a limited slip and I didn't have to do anything to make it lock up (it's the one thing that did work on it).
to post I had to log out first, now that's progress
It is common on Ford limited slip axles that if each wheel has a huge difference in traction (ie, one on ice the other on solid ground), that the wheel on ice will spin.. A common trick in this case is to lightly apply the brakes (or e-brake), while applying the gas.. It seems to help x-fer more torque to the wheel on solid ground.. I've heard theories of why this works, I don't remember the exact details.. But, it does work..
In cases where both tires are on more equal footing, (like one on gravel and one on solid, or both on dirt or snow), then it works great with no tricks.
The good news, the ticking has stopped. The bad news..... After two more visits to the dealer, a new alternator and a new belt (on two separate visits no less!) no more ticking whining or "turbo" sounds. Now get this, on the last visit to change the belt I mentioned that since the alternator had been replaced yesterday, I've been hearing what sounds like a "turbo" whistle. Answer was that it was the normal sound of the 130amp alt. that they put in at no charge to me because they didn't have a 95amp replacement on hand. But wait I say, when I bought my truck it had option 531 trailer tow package with 130amp. They say, no sir that's not what we took out yesterday but it's gone today so we can't show it to you. So they would have me believe that truck came with all other parts in the trailer tow package, but the wrong alt. and that this one is supposed to whistle! Come on I'm a working guy who knows a little more about his vehicle than the average Lexus owner! Anyway after belt replacement whistle is gone, bad taste isn't!! It gets better. I go to pick up the truck in the dark. Get my flashlight and do a walk around. Find marks and missing paint on the driver's side bed! I bring the service writer out to document this and he already knows and seems disappointed that I found it! Guess they were hoping I'd leave the premises without noticing and they could deny any knowledge by morning. Turns out an overhead light fixture in the shop blew out and came down on my truck! Now they'll have to send it to the paint shop. As soon as they make good I'm looking for a new service dept. Did I mention it took them 1 year to deliver my tube of woodland green touch-up paint. Wow, it felt good to get that all out! P.S. I'm in total agreement about this new format on Edmunds. Very difficult so far. Happy Holidays to everyone.
I'm looking to purchase a F250, PSD, 4x4, SuperCab - either Long or Short Bed
Approx 80% of the time, no towing
The rest off the time will primarily be towing a 3 horse slant load 5th wheel trailer. 10k lbs max. (Occasionally a 2 horse bumper pull (maybe in the future a camper with the bumper pull?)
Any thoughts/recommendations? Probably don't need the 8ft box for hauling payload, and I can spring for a Reese quickslide 5th wheel hitch.
I think you'd be ok with either SB or LB. Although the LB would give you just a little extra wheelbase for towing.
However, I think you might need to spend the extra $500 and go to the F350. With a 5th wheel at 10k lbs, I think its possible that the pin weight + people + gear in the bed, you might go over the GVWR for the truck itself..
I might be wrong on this, so check the figures for your particular application. You can also check www.ford-diesel.com as they have discussed towing at length..
Definitely spent some time thinking on the 350- problem is I'd "pay" for the capacity with ride quality on 80% of the time I'm driving (Probably 75% of that will be empty or nearly)
GVWR is 8800 for both vehicles.
Max trailer weight with the 250 (4x4, SRW) is 13,200 and the 350 (4x4SRW) is 13,300.
The GCWR is 20,000 for both.
So much for specs. I guess I'd agree the 350 will feel/drive better close to the max than the 250.
Thanks for the input, I'll probably go for the SB and make life easier when not pulling.
(Plus the white, 250 4x4,SC,SB,3.73LS,Lariat,etc,etc is in stock and I can pick it up next week!! 8-)
Actually the GVWR is higher on the F350, otherwise there would be NO difference between the F250 and F350. GVWR F250: 8800 F350 SRW: 9900 F350 DRW: 11200
*source:Ford 2000 Commercial Vehicle guide.
Also, the ride quality isn't much different as the beefier springs don't come into play until you have a load on it. But, if your careful with not exceeding the GVWR on the F250 it will tow just as nicely as the F350. The dealer having the truck on the lot already is another benefit..
I saw I had read the wrong line in the "200i RV/Trailer Towing Guide"
It was just simply too excrutiating to log back into this %$#%@^ board to post a correction...
From ZERO experience, but other's opinions, I thought the stiffer springs on a 350 would give a harsher ride when UNladen. When laden, they started to behave equally in ride quality, then at the very top end the 350 was superior.
Anyhoo, a bird in the bush and all that...I'll pick up the 250 next week. (Relative is the GM at a dealership-sure helps...)
Took delivery of our 250 4x4 SB 2-weeks ago. Will use it to tow a 5th wheel and love the short bed. It fits in the garage! I have the Reese 15K tilt slide hitch and can get about an 85 degree bend when backing and manuevering in the "slide" position. Can't jacknife a short bed -- 5th wheel will hit the cab, but 85 degres is pretty close to the 90. Have never had a problem in any campground with the last SB we had so don't expect to with this one. Good luck.
I have a 2001 F-250,SD,CC,V-10. Need someone to tell me how many and where the lube fittings are. As I continue to read and learn thanks to all and have a merry Christmas.
Got some snow today and decided to lock the hubs and test out the 4wd FINALLY. Had the truck since May 00 but havent had it in 4wd . Under the drivers side floor board, Im listening to a definite slight hum and what seems to be a slight vibration on back roads and highway speed with the 4x4 both engaged and disengaged. Noise is not there with hubs unlocked. Has anyone experienced any of these symptoms?
by the way..... Im experiencing the clunk noise on steep turns and the spring squeeks as well that you all are speaking about.
Ardvark-Bess-Skihoser & others. I'll just pass along my experiences pulling with a V10 I Ordered a F250 Super Duty last of June & got it last of Sep. Got V10 super cab, 3.73 short box Island Blue I/auto Trans. It handles my 28 Ft Dutchman 5th Wheel real well. I put 1500 Mi on PU then took of for Nashville, Biloxi to So. Padre Txs. Left the 5r there & dead headed to Denver for Thanksgiving. Averaged 8.0 mpg pulling @ 60-65 for 2500 hi & just driving 1200 Mi @ 13.1 but at 65 to 70 most of the way. Was somewhat disappointed in mileage while pulling and that I could pull in OD but really had my foot in it so just locked it out most of time. Mileage didn't change any. Ended up about 5000 miles. About the only problem with the truck is it has a tendency to pull to the left. Had front align. & said was good & was tires. They replaced 1 and helped some (Generals). Has any one experienced this. I must have the flutter as when step down on it, sometimes sounds like a diesel. I would sure like to hear any pulling experiences with the V10 and if you can pull in OD. thanks for all the help & info when I was buying. It sure helped. Love the truck. Had a F150 with 5.4 and this is head & shoulders above it for driving, riding & comfort not to mention the power. --Happy Trails to All
I haven't read the board in some months now and I need some help. I have a 2000 F-250 SD 4x4 SC Auto super cab. I've had this truck almost a year now and I still can't seem to make it go straight down the road. It has been to the dealer a few times, has been aligned, and they say there is nothing that they can find wrong with it. Has anyone else had any steering problems? I really don't think it is just my imagination, because when I drive my other cars and trucks I do not seem to have any problems steering straight down the road. Can anyone help please?
A few suggestions or things to check. a. tire pressure seems to make a difference.. Its not necessary to run the rears at the max pressure (75psi or something) if your not loaded.. This can have an affect..
b. Steering box sensitivity. I've heard of a very small number of cases where the steering box was either too tight (so its overly sensitive to the tiniest steering wheel movements), or too loose. Maybe the shop can check for the proper torque on this..
c. check out www.ford-diesel.com, as I've heard of this issue discussed there as well, a few months back.
d. How's your tire wear? any indications there that something is wrong?
e. road crown.. (I know, I hate it when a service tech tells me that too). But in my case on a 2 lane road, if im on the right side and let go of the wheel, it will tend to drift slightly right.. A few times to convince myself, I went to the left lane (no other cars comming), straightened out, and the truck tended to drift left if I let go of the wheel.. This convinced me that at least my particular truck isn't pulling 'abnormally'..
f. headwinds!! man, one windy day I could hardly keep the truck on the road.. These things can really catch the wind.. Although that day everyone else was also all over the road..
Happy New Year Received SD 12/29/99 .... got blanket about 3 months later. Put it behind the back seat in the crew cab for emergency. It is a nice blanket. Seems like you should have gotten it a long time ago tho ...
We're getting snow again in Oky land so get to use the 4x4 again, yea. During last snow storm and following icy roads for a couple weeks, used 4x4 a lot and got 10.5 MPG in mixed driving. (2K, 250, V-10, auto, CC, 3.73 LS) ... Normally get 12.5 MPG for all other driving ... doesn't seem to matter if I'm stop & going or driving 75 on the Interstate. Have a Happy ...
So far I have gotten a Ford Duffle Bag, the Blanket, and for filling out a Ford survey, I received a Hot/Cold plug in cooler and a $300.00 gift cert. to Barnes and Noble Book Store. I wasn't expecting the blanket it just showed up. Talk at ya all later, Have a good weekend.......
Do you get the feeling bowhuntwi2 is really rubbing our noses in it ... I would feel like I hit the lottery if I got all that stuff!! Next thing he'll be looking for donations from us for a new shed to store all his SD stuff. Only agrinnin' ay bowhuntwi2! Have a Happy ...
My 1999 F250 V10 would not hold idle the other night when I went to start it at a friends house.
Had to give it gas and put brake on with other foot and shift to drive so as not to stall too much.
Got the truck home and stalled in the driveway. Called my local dealer the next day, monday, and was immediately asked if I had the V10. Found out the idle air control valve was bad. Another symptom they said for the IACV failure is a high reving idle.
They had the part in stock and had the truck repaired when by the time I was off work.
To the few that haven't dished out $500 to equip your trucks with new tires and replaced your Firestones. Firestone offers a Road Hazard Warranty to those that originally buy a set of tires from them or have a new vehicle that originally came with Firestones. Last week I damaged a front tire that was covered under the road hazard warranty. I went to Firestone to have them check the tire. (Mind you at time I didn't have the Warranty). The Firestone man told me I had 3 options, he could of told me I only had the first two. 1. I could buy a new tire for approx. $140.00, 2. I could swap it out with my spare and always wonder if the spare will be good if I need to use it. 3. Buy a Road Hazard Warranty for my tires at $12.90 a tire (can buy anytime within 1st yr of ownership of new vehicle). I bought the warranty, he prorated my tire for wear at 4%, the tire cost me $5.16, with the warranty, the tire mounting and taxes, I got out of there for $73.00 , plus I have full road hazard warranty on my tires for the life of the tires. So you might want to check firestone out if your truck is new or less then a year old.
I disconnected the battery in my 99 F250 V10 to clean coorrosion from the positive terminal. during the cleaning some corrsion got on the engine. I hosed off the area with low water pressure and then re-connected the battery. I started the engine and after about 30 seconds, I started hearing a noise like metal expanding, I heard a similar noise when the truck was new after shutting the engine down. I thought it would stop after the engine warmed up but it continues while driving( it turns heads in traffic and at stop lights). Could I have screwed up a sensor or the computer when I disconnected the battery or the hosing off the engine? The truck runs great but the noise has me concerned that a problem could be developing.
I have a 2001 crew cab powerstroke I have put a four inch lift with 35 inch tires on it. I'm looking for some more power with either a chip or exhaust system without breaking the bank. If anyone has personal experience with these kind of up grades I would love to hear about them. I also have heard that some chips can create too much power or change the shift points in the cranny that results in cranny problems.
TRADED MY OLD 6.9 FOR A F-250 POWERSTROKE SUPER CAB W/ 6 SPEED. I NOTICE ABOUT ONCE A WEEK, ABOUT 10 SECONDS AFTER START UP, I HEAR A CLUNK FROM THE ENGINE SIDE OF THE FIREWALL. SOUNDS SIMILAR TO RELEASING THE PARKING BRAKE SOUND. SOMETIMES FAIRLY QUITE. A FEW TIMES VERY LOUD. TRUCK HAS 5,000 MILES ON IT. ALSO, A FRIEND BOUGHT AN F-250 CREW CAB W/ AUTO TRANS. HE TELLS ME HE HEARS THE SAME NOISE AT EACH START UP. ANY IDEAS WHAT THIS MIGHT BE? FORD DIDN'T SEEM TO.
I've had a droning noise between 2300-2500 rpm in my '99 SD V10 auto in all gears since it was new. It does not matter what the load or driving condition is. It now has 30,500 miles and I'm beginning to detect a slight buzzing vibration in addition to the noise. By applying the brake while stopped and running the engine up to 2300 rpm, the problem has been isolated to the engine or torque converter because nothing else is moving. The dealer said Ford is aware of the problem, but doesn't have an answer. I think it must be the engine because the tranny has only 4,000 miles on it. I'm getting quite concerned because it seems to be getting worse and the warranty is running out. Has anyone experienced any such problem or have any ideas? Thanks.
Comments
I'm having mine replaced tomorrow. The squeaks started at about 18,000 miles and got worse with cold weather.
One showed a problem with the cab bolts & mounts (tighten and/or replace some parts). Another covered clunks in units that have the front sway bar which comes with the camper package, like mine. That's a torque/tighten solution. Still another dealt with squeaking spring sleeves front and/or rears (requires new sleeves at the spring ends).
They had the front in stock and "discovered" the beginnings in the back of a squeak type problem with the rear springs. Parts were ordered for next week. I'm not sure if it's a problem, but when I load, I load. If they want to replace the rear springs under warranty, it's fine by me. I do have to wonder if they just discovered it's a slow time right here before Christmas.
They got the fronts fixed (no squeaks). They tightened the cab again and made note of my specific suggestion (from here) that it might include mounts.
Well I guess Ford just left a few "hanging chads" left to be addressed in this truck. But they're working on it. Good dealer response. Since the last service on the bolt issue, I've had two dealer service surveys come from Ford on the same visit. They're trying.
Us old timers don't go away, we just go driving. Happy holidays to everybody, new and old.
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Host
tick... tick! Went to dealer last week for front
spring squeek TSB and the "Tick". Dealer says, "we
removed your serpentine belt and tick stopped, but
we're not sure if it's the belt,alternator or
something else. We'll fix it when you come back to
have the new spring isolators installed." So I
drive home only to find that when they removed and
replaced the belt, they made the "tick" 10 times
worse!(I guess that's good news cause now I'm
convinced it really isn't the motor) For the next
three days it was so noisy it would wake up the
neighbors when I leave for work! Today it has
quieted back down to the intermitent "tick" I had
before the shop visit. Shouldn't it have been
easier for them to diagnose, and why would they
wait until next visit before taking action? Anybody else run into anything similar?
My truck has been just fine. 00 F250 SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS. In the summer I had the cab popping sounds, but the weather turned a bit cooler before I could get it to the shop.. (doesn't happen now).
In the past, alot of folks would inquire about the mpg's. My overall mpg is 15.5. This is mixed city/highway..
I've had 2 tanks average at 18mpg, but this is doing all highway, empty, at 65mph or less. I usually run Texaco or Amoco.
I took a long trip home for thanksgiving where the speed limit was 70mph for quite a while.. The old MPG's dropped quite a bit doing this..
Then I spent a week or so with family in PA. While there, I was again doing alot of mixed city/highway driving only in an area where there are a few more hills. Also I had to fill up at an 'off brand' gas station.. My mpg's for this tank was in the 13's.
After my trip back to NC, all returned back to normal.
Prior to this trip, I saw were lots of folks had somewhat different claims of what their mpg's are.
My latest experience might confirms to me alot of what we already know.
- Speed greatly affects mpg. 60mph vs 70mph
- Where you live matters.
- Quality of the fuel. (high quality name brand vs local stores 'happy gas').
The the EPA were to put a sticker on my truck, it would say 13/17.
My V10,4x4 w/3.73,CC is getting about 11/13-14 in the colder weather. I think part of it is the additional warmup/defrost time fuel burn (I park outside) as well as running the defroster/A-C combo setting. My mileage is best in fall or spring (12/14) with the windows up and the a/c off. These things really suck gas at 70+ mph & having the window(s) down makes it worse. They really have a drag factor. The mpg/speed sensitivity is a function of the size of the hole you're punching throught air and how fast you're doing it.
Dave84
- If I can find my forum, it claims I need to login before posting, but when I go to login it says I am already.
- If I come in and never use the search, I can sometimes get to this window where I can type in post information
- Often when I hit the 'post my message' it throws me back to the main window, (and my text isn't posted. ARG)
- The text isn't formatting to fit my netscape browser window (version 4.5). Makes it hard to read what others have posted and what I am typing because I have to keep scrolling left/right.)
- Forum moderators interested in opening up new threads (like super duty problems) rather than just keeping the current threads working.. I now have to monitor a bunch of threads.. Whereas before I could find anything Super Duty related here (Super Duty IX).
- They are going through a time consuming task to re-post folks old questions, (when I think more time should be spent fixing bugs on the new software).
Oh, to keep to the SuperDuty topic. Mine is white..
Thanks
Thanks!
Jim
to post I had to log out first, now that's progress
A common trick in this case is to lightly apply the brakes (or e-brake), while applying the gas.. It seems to help x-fer more torque to the wheel on solid ground..
I've heard theories of why this works, I don't remember the exact details.. But, it does work..
In cases where both tires are on more equal footing, (like one on gravel and one on solid, or both on dirt or snow), then it works great with no tricks.
I'm looking to purchase a F250, PSD, 4x4, SuperCab - either Long or Short Bed
Approx 80% of the time, no towing
The rest off the time will primarily be towing a 3 horse slant load 5th wheel trailer. 10k lbs max. (Occasionally a 2 horse bumper pull (maybe in the future a camper with the bumper pull?)
Any thoughts/recommendations? Probably don't need the 8ft box for hauling payload, and I can spring for a Reese quickslide 5th wheel hitch.
Will the SB do it, or should I get the LB?
Thanks
Ard
However, I think you might need to spend the extra $500 and go to the F350. With a 5th wheel at 10k lbs, I think its possible that the pin weight + people + gear in the bed, you might go over the GVWR for the truck itself..
I might be wrong on this, so check the figures for your particular application. You can also check www.ford-diesel.com as they have discussed towing at length..
GVWR is 8800 for both vehicles.
Max trailer weight with the 250 (4x4, SRW) is 13,200 and the 350 (4x4SRW) is 13,300.
The GCWR is 20,000 for both.
So much for specs. I guess I'd agree the 350 will feel/drive better close to the max than the 250.
Thanks for the input, I'll probably go for the SB and make life easier when not pulling.
(Plus the white, 250 4x4,SC,SB,3.73LS,Lariat,etc,etc is in stock and I can pick it up next week!! 8-)
Ard
GVWR
F250: 8800
F350 SRW: 9900
F350 DRW: 11200
*source:Ford 2000 Commercial Vehicle guide.
Also, the ride quality isn't much different as the beefier springs don't come into play until you have a load on it.
But, if your careful with not exceeding the GVWR on the F250 it will tow just as nicely as the F350. The dealer having the truck on the lot already is another benefit..
I like your color choice as well..
Roger
00' F250 XLT SC 4x2 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS white
It was just simply too excrutiating to log back into this %$#%@^ board to post a correction...
From ZERO experience, but other's opinions, I thought the stiffer springs on a 350 would give a harsher ride when UNladen. When laden, they started to behave equally in ride quality, then at the very top end the 350 was superior.
Anyhoo, a bird in the bush and all that...I'll pick up the 250 next week. (Relative is the GM at a dealership-sure helps...)
Ard
Hope you all have a Happy New Year
by the way..... Im experiencing the clunk noise on steep turns and the spring squeeks as well that you all are speaking about.
Wow. What a great vehicle.
Averaged 16.5 MPG.
Last week averaged 18.3 on only freeway miles at 60-65mpg. Mixed city/highway it was down to 15.5. Very happy with the Diesel.
F250 4x4 7.3L PSD, SuperCab, SB, Leather, CD, Heat Seats, Dang, why get out?
Ard
I'll just pass along my experiences pulling with a V10
I Ordered a F250 Super Duty last of June & got it last of
Sep. Got V10 super cab, 3.73 short box Island Blue I/auto Trans. It
handles my 28 Ft Dutchman 5th Wheel real well. I put 1500 Mi on PU then took of
for Nashville, Biloxi to So. Padre Txs. Left the 5r there & dead
headed to Denver for Thanksgiving. Averaged 8.0 mpg pulling @ 60-65 for 2500
hi & just driving 1200 Mi @ 13.1 but at 65 to 70 most of the way. Was somewhat disappointed in mileage while pulling and that I could pull in OD but really had my foot in it so just
locked it out most of time. Mileage didn't change any. Ended up about 5000 miles.
About the only problem with the truck is it has a tendency to pull to the left. Had front align. & said was good & was tires. They replaced 1 and helped some (Generals). Has any one experienced this. I must have the flutter as when step down on it, sometimes sounds like a diesel. I would sure like to hear any pulling experiences with the V10 and if you can pull in OD. thanks for all the help & info when I was buying. It sure helped. Love the truck. Had a F150 with 5.4 and this is head & shoulders above it for driving, riding & comfort not to mention the power. --Happy Trails to All
F-250 SD 4x4 SC Auto super cab. I've had this truck almost a year now and I still
can't seem to make it go straight down the road. It has been to the dealer a few
times, has been aligned, and they say there is nothing that they can find wrong with
it. Has anyone else had any steering problems? I really don't think it is just my
imagination, because when I drive my other cars and trucks I do not seem to have
any problems steering straight down the road. Can anyone help please?
a. tire pressure seems to make a difference.. Its not necessary to run the rears at the max pressure (75psi or something) if your not loaded.. This can have an affect..
b. Steering box sensitivity. I've heard of a very small number of cases where the steering box was either too tight (so its overly sensitive to the tiniest steering wheel movements), or too loose. Maybe the shop can check for the proper torque on this..
c. check out www.ford-diesel.com, as I've heard of this issue discussed there as well, a few months back.
d. How's your tire wear? any indications there that something is wrong?
e. road crown.. (I know, I hate it when a service tech tells me that too). But in my case on a 2 lane road, if im on the right side and let go of the wheel, it will tend to drift slightly right..
A few times to convince myself, I went to the left lane (no other cars comming), straightened out, and the truck tended to drift left if I let go of the wheel.. This convinced me that at least my particular truck isn't pulling 'abnormally'..
f. headwinds!! man, one windy day I could hardly keep the truck on the road.. These things can really catch the wind.. Although that day everyone else was also all over the road..
Received SD 12/29/99 .... got blanket about 3 months later. Put it behind the back seat in the crew cab for emergency. It is a nice blanket. Seems like you should have gotten it a long time ago tho ...
We're getting snow again in Oky land so get to use the 4x4 again, yea. During last snow storm and following icy roads for a couple weeks, used 4x4 a lot and got 10.5 MPG in mixed driving. (2K, 250, V-10, auto, CC, 3.73 LS) ... Normally get 12.5 MPG for all other driving ... doesn't seem to matter if I'm stop & going or driving 75 on the Interstate. Have a Happy ...
Only agrinnin' ay bowhuntwi2!
Have a Happy ...
Had to give it gas and put brake on with other foot and shift to drive so as not to stall too much.
Got the truck home and stalled in the driveway. Called my local dealer the next day, monday, and was immediately asked if I had the V10. Found out the idle air control valve was bad. Another symptom they said for the IACV failure is a high reving idle.
They had the part in stock and had the truck repaired when by the time I was off work.
2. I could swap it out with my spare and always wonder if the spare will be good if I need to use it. 3. Buy a Road Hazard Warranty for my tires at $12.90 a tire (can buy anytime within 1st yr of ownership of new vehicle). I bought the warranty, he prorated my tire for wear at 4%, the tire cost me $5.16, with the warranty, the tire mounting and taxes, I got out of there for $73.00 , plus I have full road hazard warranty on my tires for the life of the tires. So you might want to check firestone out if your truck is new or less then a year old.
I started hearing a noise like metal expanding,
I heard a similar noise when the truck was new
after shutting the engine down. I thought it
would stop after the engine warmed up but it
continues while driving( it turns heads in traffic
and at stop lights). Could I have screwed up a
sensor or the computer when I disconnected the
battery or the hosing off the engine? The truck runs great but the noise has me concerned that
a problem could be developing.
check out www.dieselperformance.com.
Ard