Ford Expedition Towing Questions
norman_classen
Member Posts: 6
in Ford
Can anyone give me an idea as to what kind of truck I can use to tow my Expedition? None of the big moving companies will do it, they say it's too heavy.
0
Comments
tidester, host
Call your dealer, ask for the use car manager, and find out who he uses to delivery cars from auction.
Mark.
If it is not a factory hitch, then the wire plug-ins won't be right next to the hitch all neat and covered.
Also you can look under the hood for the aux trans oil cooler installed in front of the main radiator down low.
Mark
As far as the trans oil cooler goes, one is actually standard on the truck. A larger one comes with the towing package. However, not having one to compare it against, I'd much rather be able to use some other aspect to identify the tow package.
Thanks.
I have never owned an SUV. if I were to purchase one, I would want it to be able to do what the vehicles were created to do: tow campers, boats, stock trailers, etc. The SUVS I see tend to have bumpers like sedans and appear far more desgined ofr suburban soccer moms use than for camping or farm use.
Which SUVs come with tow packages? Which SUVS can tow as much as a Ford F150?
I don't have any cost information on the service receipt but if anyone is interested, I can go get it and post the part numbers here.
woody
Qty....Number..............Description
1........7L1Z-7A095-B....Oil Cooler Asy
1........7L1Z-8005-B......Radiator Asy
1........7L1Z-7C410-C....Tube - Oil Coo
2........VC-7-B..............Anti-Freeze
2........XT-6-QSP..........Fluid - Transm
1........XT-5-QM............Fluid - Transm
...
1........Not provided......7 Pin Conn
Longmont Ford in Longmont Colorado, by the way.
Woody
The HD tow package increases the capacity from 6000 to 9000 lbs but does not include any changes to the hitch. It includes the larger oil cooler, larger radiator, 7 pin connector and brake wiring kit.
Ford's "2008 Expedition & Expedition XL" color glossy marketing material generically references the "Heavy Duty Trailer Tow Package" (does not mention the exact package identifier) on page 27. Page 26 has the information on "Trailer Towing Applications" (the max tow capacity per Exp when properly equipped).
Ford's "2008 RV & Trailer Towing Guide" color glossy marketing material specifically references the 536 package and its details in a table of all the Tow packages for all Ford vehicles on page 14. Page 15 indicates the need for this package to get tow capacity above 6000 lbs.
I know this since I made copies of those pages to show to the dealer when I was having a debate with the dealer on if I already had the 536 package (no) and then what I expected them to add when they agreed I did not already have it!
The Exp glossy was readily avail at my local dealer. The sales rep brought out the Trailer Towing guide when I asked questions that he could not answer. Thinking I was about to buy a used Exp from them (I eventually went elsewhere), the sales rep gave me a copy of the RV & Trailer Towing Guide and admitted they don't leave them laying out and only have a couple in the dealership for reference.
Dan
I'm gathering everything now to head back to the dealer and show them, including the service and parts department the real facts.
I bought this as a "program" vehicle with 20000 miles specifically to two the 9000. I was assured that was the case. The sales person showed me the web site. The owners manual was missing and I didn't realize it was only a 6000# tow when they got me a new one. I understand the sales persons mistake. In 2007 the Ford info certainly did not point toward the limited version.
What I am really ticked about is their service and parts department couldn't get, didn't really try to get the right information when I went back last month.
Should be fun this afternoon.
Woody
More reference info here
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/717668-mod-expedition-for-heavy-duty-towing.ht- ml
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/655255-heavy-duty-tow-package-transmission-coo- ler-too-small.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/713613-heavy-duty-radiator-differences.html
As you know, the hitch receiver is rated for 9,200#, there are electric brake wires and receivers installed. The only addition was a larger radiator and cooler, your parts numbers.
It was labor extensive, so I would advise anyone that thought they got the heavy tow package and didn't try to get the labor done by the dealership. I thought replacing a radiator was simple, I"ve done older vehicles a lot. Ford Expedition requires removing the whole front clip and a bunch of surounding stuff. I put in my own 7 pin plug that was easy since the electric brake control wiring was already in place.
I think I was billed retail for the radiator and cooler, I'm working on that; but, my total parts only bill was 454.90. Brake controller and pin recepticle totalled around $160; but, I got a high end Brake controller to match one on my motorhome.
Thanks again.
Woodye
Longmont Ford, Longmont Colorado was my dealer that finally came around.
I did much of the same investigation so glad I could help. Sounds like you are where (or very near where) you want to be.
I hate how Ford has done a two tiered tow package. I almost bought an 07 Expedition that I thought was rated for 9,000lbs but didn't have the h/d tow package. I was about to sign the papers when I did one last walk around and noticed it didn't have a 7pin adapter. The sales person and sales manager were clueless. I used the manual to determine that no 7 pin connector means now HD tow package. Many of the 07 Expeditions I looked at lacked the h/d tow package. I finally found a used 07 EB with the h/d tow package and 3.73 gears and bought it. Tows great, much better than the 5.3 powered Suburban I traded in.
Yes that's true. I believe it's in the Expedition manual.
I've found out something else that may be usefull. There is a spark plug removal problem in the 5.4 Liter engine. The plugs have a long shank below the threads in a tight hole in the head going down to and open to the combustion chamber.
I called a lot of Ford mechanics and finally may have found the solution. On a Warm Engine, (most Ford Service reps said Cold engine, wrong) losen the spark plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Then spray carb cleaner around the plug. It goes around the threads and breaks lose the carbon and crud build-up around the long shank of the plug.
I replaced my plugs using this procedure and everthing worked OK. You can hear the carb cleaner bubbling/sizzling, and the plugs came out fine. I used a magnet to pull them out and had to wiggle a couple of plugs. Still a pain and knuckle busting job; but, didn't break any plugs.
Champain makes a one piece plug, the stock plugs appear to be a bonded two piece shank. They are expensive and may not be necessary with the above procedure with a stock plug.
Woody
It may say that in a manual but in reality, that is not that simple. Most trailers weighing close to 9k lbs will require a w/d hitch because they will have tongue weight of 10-15% of total weight. 900-1350lbs of tongue weight is more than most pickups/SUVs can safely handle on the hitch ball. Boats are different because they usually have tongue weights of 5-10% of total weight which in most instances does not require a w/d hitch.
The key to towing with any vehicle is to make sure you don't overload the axles on the tow vehicle and having a trailer with proper weight distribution and the proper hitch and brake setup. I use my 07 Expedition to tow our 25' travel trailer that is around 6,000lbs loaded. I use a w/d hitch with a sway control device to safely tow the trailer. Used the same setup with my previous Suburban. Realistically, I would not tow 9,000lbs with any 1/2 ton truck. IMO, if your towing that much, you need a 3/4 ton. 80% of max tow rating is a more real world number.
I picked up a 2007 Expedition w/ standard cooling. I knew towing might be an issue, but the deal was too good to pass up. My trailer weighs 5,500 lbs empty, so I thought there would at least be a chance that I would be OK even w/ a 6,000 lb tow rating. First couple of times towing were no problem.
Pulling Rabbit Ears Pass (Colorado, near Steamboat Springs, 7.5% grade) proved too much, and we overheated about 300 yards from the top. Bummer.
Long story short, I ordered and received the HD radiator and TOC. (The TOC is obviously a different and larger-capacity part.) The radiator invoice and box list the correct part number, 7L1Z8005B, however I see no difference at all in the replacement radiator. I know from this thread that it is the 'fins per inch' that is supposed to be different, but the 'fins per inch' of the new and old radiators seems to be the same -- I measure about 16 fins per inch across the outside (curiously, neither the 13 of the standard nor the 19 of the HD part as listed in the 2008 F150 guide noted elsewhere in this thread). Is this where I should be measuring, or is the fins per inch measured depth-wise?
The PN on the sticker afixed to the radiator itself is 7L14-8005-BC, so I am concerned that I received a mis-packaged radiator. Does anybody have the PN for the standard-duty radiator?
Thanks for the help; I'd like to have a clue before I go back to the selling dealer (if I even need to.)
Dakota123
My part numbers from the invoice were:
1........7L1Z-7A095-B....Oil Cooler Asy
1........7L1Z-8005-B......Radiator Asy
>> The PN on the sticker afixed to the radiator itself is 7L14-8005-BC
Typo?
I don't think so. I haven't had any luck finding the standard-duty PN. All of the authorized resellers seem to use the same catalog system, and it hides the PN unless you happen to already know it and search for the part by number.
>>1........7L1Z-8005-B......Radiator Asy
That's what my invoice and the shipping box says also, but as I said, I see absolutely no difference between the installed radiator and the replacement, even after measuring what I presume to be 'fins per inch'.
Dakota123
The standard-duty radiator is 7L1Z-8005-A. I should have guessed...
The 7L148005BC number on the radiator itself is Ford's engineering number. The dealer says that it cross-references to 7L1Z-8005-B, which is the super-cooling part. So it seems to be the correct part after all.
I just wish it were more obvious!
Dakota123
I replaced the original standard-cooling radiator and trans. oil cooler w/ the super-cooling parts over the weekend. The standard-cooling radiator carries a 7L148005AC engineering no., which corresponds to a 7L1Z-8005-A part no. The super cooling engineering no. is 7L148005BC and the part no. is 7L1Z-8005-B.
There is actually a visible difference once you put both radiators side-by-side. The fins extend farther on one side on the super-cooling part -- flush with the side tank on one side and within 1/4" or so of flush on the other, whereas on the standard-cooling part the fins are flush on one side but only within 1/2" or so of flush on the other. Also, the fins are much thinner, aiding heat transfer (and making the fins more fragile, easier to flatten if you brush against them).
The job was maybe a 2 1/2 out of five on the pain-in-the-a** meter, and took me about 6 hours including replacement of the transmission oil cooler. Some of that was head scratching, figuring how to gain enough clearance between the A/C condenser and the radiator to allow the radiator to come out-- I didn't want to have to dump the A/C charge.
The good news is that it can be done without overstressing anything, either on removal or re-installation, although you have to break the condenser support tabs off of the radiator to be removed. (Well, that's what I eventually did; there may be a way to do it without breaking the tabs, but I finally had had enough...)
Happy to help if anyone wants more detail.
Dakota123
I have had my share of experiences with ordering trucks and sale people that think they know what they are selling you. I own 7 Ford truck for my business and doing very simple add ons have become a battle of wits with the Service department.
With that being said.....I recently purchased a 2005 Expedition E/B 4X4, Must say I got a great deal. My intention is to trailer the boat I have not yet purchased which will weight about 5000-6000lbs.
From reading here I can tell you that I have the 4 plug only on the hitch. I have seen the dual 7/4 plug on other Expeditions and now realize what I was told was the TOW PACKAGE (6,000lbs) is just that and there is a HD version (8,900).
Without knowing which rear end I have if i DO NOT have the 3:73 rear would is still be worth doing the balance of the HD upgrade as listed here by others?
OR just leave things as is add a brake controller and a 7 pin plug?
As a side note I would never even think about towing anything close to 9000lbs with an Expedition.
TIA
Ron G.
You will tow a boat which will weigh 5000-6000 pounds (that I assume you mean fully loaded for a total of 5000-6000 pounds with boat, trailer, motor, gas, stuff) with the base towing capabilities. If true, you are on the upper end of the capacity vs intended load.
>> Without knowing which rear end I have if i DO NOT have the 3:73 rear would is still be worth doing the balance of the HD upgrade as listed here by others?
I say yes to get the larger oil cooler and radiator to keep the engine from overheating especially depending on the terrain of your towing. Its a form of insurance and peace of mind.
While my '07 is better in some respects, the stiffer suspension of the '05 I had was a bit more secure for towing in heavy crosswinds.
I do not intend to tow with it, but I would like to have it be able to pull a horse trailer to the vet or some such in a pinch.
If your hitch is lighter, see if it's bolted or welded in. If bolted it would be simple to add an aftermarket Class IV.
My current boat weighs about 4800lbs full of gear and fuel and my 07 Expedition doesn't break a sweat towing it, does a much better job than my previous '00 Suburban. I do have the 3.73 gears and h/d towing package.
An external trans cooler is a must and you should be fine.
From what I am learning about the boat I am interested in (20' jet boat) only weight about 3,000bs. This should be nothing for the Expy.
I do have the H6 rearend code and from all I can find that is the 3:73.
When I get the trailer I now two things for sure reguardless of the actual weight of the boat: 1) I will pay for a twin axle trailer. (I know a single axle trailer would handle the weight BUT I have towed those on a long trip and I just would rather have the twin axles for improved stability and I have also see what single axle ttrailers for at the end of less than great boat ramps) 2) it will have electric brakes. ( I know surge brakes get teh job done but again, anyone that has done some stop and go traffic trailering with sruge brakes will know waht I am talking about)
New Question... How does the AIR SUSPENSION effect trailering?
TIA, Ron G.
Well I've probably towed my boat with surge brakes 20k miles w/o an issue. Yeah, it will clunk a little but not a big deal, I just ease on the gas to let the actuator gradually pull back. Braking performance is excellent. I've also got a 25' travel trailer with electric brakes with a Prodigy inertia brake controller. It is not a whole lot better in stop and go traffic in terms of smooth brake performance.
I don't think you really want to deal with electric brakes on a boat trailer. It's hard enough to keep the trailer lights working with constantly being dumped in a lake. If you do go this route you'll want electric over hydraulic, that way, the hydraulic part gets wet and you'll have a lot less trouble. I'm just not convinced it's worth the money on a trailer under 5,000lbs.
A 3k-4k boat will be a piece of cake behind an Expedition, h/d tow package or not. If that's all your towing I wouldn't worry about a h/d radiator, still wouldn't be a bad idea to add a trans cooler.
Can't disagree about a tandem axle trailer. My current boat has a tandem and it rides and tows much better than my previous boat with a single axle. The only issue is it's almost impossible to move the trailer tongue more than 6" in either direction. That is sometimes an issue when positioning in our garage. If your ordering a trailer, you might want to consider a swing-able tongue. It allows me to get a 21' boat in a 23' garage.
Too start, let me admit I'm a dumbass when it comes to mechanics & wiring...
Here is my problem...I have a 2005 expedition that has the factory tow hitch. I tow a boat trailer & a little utility trailer. The left turn signal & brake light are not working.
I took it in to U-haul last year & the kid there said he thought it would be an easy fix, either a fuse or a relay. I bought the vehicle used & didn't have the owners manual at the time. U-haul guys messed around w/ it for a while & couldn't figure out which fuse it was. Finally the guy told me to take it to the dealership.
I was leaving for a camping trip w/ the boat & couldn't get it in to the dealership in time, so I just drove it w/ no left turn signal. That was at the end of last summer, I put the boat up & didn't worry about it until now.
I was back at u-haul for something else & was chatting w/ the kid about the taillight last week. He again said he was sure it was a fuse & he tore into it again. Of course, I still didn't have the manual...& after some frustrated effort on his part, he called the dealership & asked which fuse it was. They tried to tell him that it must be a broken wire in the line...& not the fuse. All three uhaul employees (w/ and average of 8 yrs on the job) said that every time this sort of thing has been brought in before it has been a fuse or relay, NEVER a broken wire.
Dealership wants $95 just to look at it....
I downloaded the owners manual w/ the fuse/relay diagram. According to the diagram, fuse #42 is the "trailer tow left/stoplamps"...I checked this fuse & guess what?...it was blown. I changed the fuse, super happy that I figured this out w/ out paying the dealerships outrageous prices....I hooked the trailer up & guess what?...still no left turn signal or brake light. Rechecked the fuse & it's still good. (I'm sure this question is coming up, so...I actually own three trailers, I tried all 3 & same problem, so the problem is NOT the trailer)
ANY ADVISE OR GUESSES OUT THERE?....please help, thanks.
Understadably, I believe that Ford would have cushion in their numbers knowing that persons will be over from time to time.
Not a good choice for the Expy.
Thanks again.
http://keystone-outback.com/index.php?page=floorplans&coast=&model=312BH
Has electric brakes. It looks like GVWR is 9K. That would be reached with 1700lbs of cargo/water. Dry+full fresh water = 7660.
No on the test, dealer doesn't have it. It would be ordered. Not really anywhere close to pull uphill. I'm sure it would handle flat ground just fine.
I'd get a prodigy brake controller, they are pretty much the top of the line.
I pulled my 2010 Coachemen 32bhds which is just under 36' and 7600lbs empty with my 07 Expedition to our seasonal campsite from the dealer. It handled the weight fairly well considering it has roughly 1,200lbs of tongue weight (including full propane tanks and battery). I was using 1000lb weight distribution bars and dual friction sway bars. It was marginal at best. Anytime I got much over 50mph, it would start to sway. An excellent in-line sway/ weight distribution hitch is a must. Something like a Reese Dual Cam etc, would be absolute minimum if you plan on towing more than a few miles safely.
My trip from the dealer to the campground was 120 miles. I avoided the interstates and it was still a bear of a tow. Like I said, the weight of the trailer wasn't a problem. The Expe accelerated well and held speed up over passes etc, but the length is an issue. If you plan on towing far, I'd recommend keeping overall length under 30' and invest in a good hitch. Skip the friction sway control.
Goodluck. Outbacks are great trailers. We had a 25RSS that we simply outgrew and we wanted something bigger with dual slides for our seasonal campsite.