Nissan Quest Heating / Cooling Problems
I have a 99 Nissan Quest that I have replaced the blower resistor in order to get the low speeds to work on the fan. The new $34 resistor burns out after 3 days. I suspect there is a short somewhere or something is causing the resistor to overheat. Has anyone found faults related to this? The dealership said there is a second resistor for the rear air, where is that? They said by the other one, but I did not see it. Leaves blocking air flow over the resistor? Bad Bearings on the motor causing excessive resistannce? The ac does not work and I noticed that no hot air blows out of the rear air vents. Any ideas?
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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager: Electrical Issues
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it takes a longtime to warm up. No warm air comes out of the vents until I start driving for a prolonged period. As soon as I stop, vents start blowing cold air. Same issue with the rear heater. Also the car has Water Coolant smell once van is driven with the heater on for a longtime.
Otherwise the car is normal and does not over heat.
Took it to a mechanic. The car was very low on
Coolant water and he found a Coolant Leak from the rubbber Radiator Hose. He said this is a big job, since to replace the upper radiatr hose, will require removing lots of stuff and replacing the manifold gasket.
Does this make sense? Do I need to do all this
to replace the rubber hose?
Your opinion please.
Thank You
Adam
Thank-you,
Front A/C has stopped working twice. Dealer has told him
it may be a bad resistor. Dealer advised him to let them
know if it happens again. Is this a known problem? Any
information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Mark
2004 Quest SE
42,000 miles
please help
thank you
marty
The front control has no problem. Hot air is blowing.
But, there is no heat coming out of the rear control; only cold air.
(Temperature control is already set to HIGH)
After driving a while, the air at the rear starts to warm up a little bit.
But, it is still nowhere close to the hot air blowing at front.
Does anyone know what the possible problem may be?
Thanks in advance,
Terry
Thanks,
Phuc
05 Quest SE
Steve, visiting host
It happened again.....It was in the low 90's here and all of the sudden our front AC just cut out while on a local freeway. Would not start back until I turned the ignition off and on again. Took it to the dealer and of course they could not replicate the problem. They re-charged our cooling system and all seemed well except the other day it did it again for about 2 seconds and came back again......Additionally the other day my auto up drivers window would not stay up.....would go all the way up and then roll down about 4 inches.....of course the next day all seemed well.....apparently our Quest is posessed and wants to make a fool out of me everytime I take it into the dealership.
Our '97 Quest started doing this last year (a/c on, warm/hot air up front, cold in back). It was very intermittent, and often a little "love tap" on the dash got it working again, and when it did blow cold again, it was almost instant from hot to cold, leading me to believe it was electrical - not mechanical - in nature. It didn't happen very often, so we made it through the rest of 2007 with only occasional problems.
Fast forward to Feb 2008. Problem exists all the time - nothing but full heat out of the front unit, back works fine. A/C has no effect - heat all the time.
Still thinking I was dealing with an electrical issue, I grabbed my father-in-laws HVAC controller from his '97 Villager and installed it in our Quest. It worked great - temperature could be controlled, and I had cool air UP FRONT. To prove my point, I installed our Quest unit in his Villager and went for a drive. HOT AIR ONLY UP FRONT!! AHA! Its the controller - NOT a vacuum line, valve, etc.
Back into the garage, I disassembled the HVAC controller and could not find anything wrong - no burned areas, etc. Bummer. But I got to looking closer at the wiring coming off the back of the temperature selector knob - the connector was attached, but it was loose and could be moved around very easily. There was no real way to tighten it any more, so I unplugged it, applied some dielectric grease ($.99 at the auto parts store) to the connector, plugged it back in, and crossed my fingers.
A few minutes later I had the controller back in our still hot-engined Quest. The engine hadn't been running five seconds and I knew the problem was fixed - cool air immediately, and as I turned the temp control knob, I could instantly hear the system cycle from one setting to the other. Problem fixed!
After driving our van for a few thousand miles since that day, I can say with 100% certainty that the loose connector (all wires not making contact) is what fixed our problem. Although this may not be everyone's fix, it is easy enough to try - just 30 minutes of your time, and a dollar bill for the grease.
Here's some pictures of this, let me know if anyone wants hi-res versions or more info.
Quest HVAC
Oh, and let me add one more thing. This did not happen on our original HVAC controller, but rather a new unit that I purchased and installed 2 years ago because our original unit (200k on it at the time) literally fried itself. We had smoke inside the van when it failed electrically. The new unit worked fine for about a year before the hot air only problem started, so it wasn't old age, but rather a poor design or poor assembly of the new unit - which seems to be common on these "old" vans.
Best,
MotoNation
So I put it all back together and made sure all connections were snug.
Next I filled up the freon, and I noticed that the compressor kicked on and the back was cold, but the front was cooler, but not cold.
So we headed up to AutoZone and I purchased more freon with a clear tube so I could see what was going in. This one was called sub zero with hose 15oz. I figured that I would go old school and have my wife sit inside the van while I filled it up and let me know if the cold air was coming out the front vents.
Note: the other freon refill bottle I used came with guage, but I think that guage was faulty as it said my system was full.
After filling up with the sub zero with hose (hose is clear) 15oz, the front ac is ice cold now.
....
In your case it had to be the connection to the hvac controller since you swapped the unit and came up with the same problem in the other van with that unit.
In my case..... it was a simple matter of filling it up.
The important and good news is ... it works now.
Thanks for the above information, hopefully it is the same issue I have with my 2000 Quest.
Do you happen to have detailed instructions to remove the HVAC controller ?
Thanks
AJ
Be back later.
I did manage to get the HVAC controller out - I had a Haynes Repair Manual and the instructions to remove it were slightly out of place.
The connectors on the HVAC controller look fine, I made sure that all the connectors are snug and not loose. I am waiting for the weather to give me some high temps in the 90s to really confirm if things have changed..
I will keep u posted.
Rgds,
AJ
(Our van is at the tire shop right now, having tires put on at 245K miles; I think this might be our 6th set of tires) :P
Be back later tonight sometime.
thanks
I have had my A/C system leak out refrigerant (likely shrinking seals) over a winter to the point where it was blowing warm when we used it the following summer. I took it to a mechanic to get belts and seals and water pump replaced and have him look at the A/C system. He asked if it was working fine the previous summer (which it was) and suspected seals that were leaking. He asked if I wanted it charged and because the wife HAD to have A/C before a trip we were taking in a couple of days, I said yes. It is a 134a system but he filled it with Red Tek (I did not know). The system worked fine for a while but now the rear A/C only blows warm while the front continues to blow cold so I know there is no leak in the refrigerant lines.
I am suspecting that the rear expansion valve has become plugged and needs to be replaced.
Has anyone else experienced this or gone through this repair? The expansion valve is under $10.
If you have No Rear AC Blower Motor on your Villager/Quest (look under SubTopics)
Glenn
And my Fixing a Stuck Tach in a Nissan Quest guide has some dash photos too.
Good luck!
Steve, visiting host
Thanks for the great info. Once I got the heater control out and opened up the black box it was very obvious that the problem was the relay solder. Took about 35 minutes start to finish to fix including removing and replacing the bezel and the directional louvers in the panel. Thanks again for your help. I look forward to mining your site for other little fixes to my 220,000 miles van.
Sincerely, Glenn
My minivan now has 116,000 miles. Two years ago I replaced the timing belt. At that time, I did replace the thermostat along with all the seals + water pump etc.
Any ideas what I should check or repair? Is this a common problem?
Thanks!
I noticed another thing which may be an important symptom:
When I shut the ignition, I hear a sound which can be best described as "water flowing down the pipe". This sound only lasts 6 to 9 seconds but I always hear it after shutting the engine.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks!