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Pontiac Grand Am Service Engine Soon / ABS / Trac Off

catdugcatdug Posts: 2
edited July 2015 in Pontiac
Well, those three things pretty much sum up what im going through right now. All three lights are on and when you make a hard right or left turn and accelerate at low speed the car seems like the drivetrain is missing, almost like it's skipping. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.

See also: (Video- 6:31) Grand Am ABS/Trac light troubleshooting


  • kmajorskmajors Posts: 17
    Go to a parts store like O'Riely or AutoZone and use the code scanner. That should give you a good place to start. You can use the code scanner for free or very low cost. You do NOT need to buy one.

    This could be anything from a cracked vacuum line to a bad computer. The scanner will tell you what the computer thinks is wrong.
  • These lights are all on, I am more worried about the ABS and Brake lights. It won't let me shift out of park. I have to use the overide switch. The guys at tire pros said they replaced the ABS Brake relay.. that seemed to fix the problem... for a few weeks. Now I am having the same problem. First off does anyone know where the that relay is, and secondly does anyone know what the ATC is?
  • ac4ac4 Posts: 1
    I am going through the same thing but I am not experiencing the missing or skipping. One of the guys I work with has the same car and had the same problem. He had it serviced at the dealer and they replaced the hub assembly. This seems to have fixed it for the time being. I guess I will have to do the same thing. It sounds like it is a $700-$900cdn touch.
  • I have about 71k on my GA and I have already replaced both the left and right wheel bearing retaining hubs. Recently over the last 2 months these lights have been coming on intermittently, generally when driving in wet weather. Any ideas? Would it be one of the two hubs or is it likely one of the sensors elsewhere on the vehicle?
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,652
    Could be problem in wiring/harness 'somewhere'
  • could be, but the cost for me to take a look at the entire electrical system is going to be more than I can afford!
  • ATC stands for automatic traction control. If your car is a 2000 or newer you might find the anti lock brake relay underneath the battery tray along the left frame rail of the car.
  • If you go to auto zone they will plug the code scanner into your car for free. The code will probably come up as a vacuum problem, and or a 0300 code which is multiple misfires, but don't sweat the car is probably not misfiring it's all comeing from the faulty electrical system.
  • i"m new to this site so tell me what can i do besides take it in and be serviced, since late january 2007 abs trac comes on /serv engine /brake well brake goes off,but after 2-6 miles down the road brake comes on, and tires have a roaring soundwhen accelerating but other than that (i know its the wheel right hub) it drives great still when i first got it back in sept 06 checked for recalls and problems before on line excellent condition 98,000 actual miles :confuse:
  • carguy38carguy38 Posts: 4
    I replaced all four of my wheel hubs, and put new calipers on all four wheels. The car drives fine, but all the lights are still on, with the addition of the red brake light. I have been working on and driving GM vehicles for years, and I have never experienced this problem. I am getting ready to run a full diagnostic check on the entire system of the car. From the engine all the way to the exhaust and everything in between. I will post a message as soon as I find out exactly what the problem is, and how to fix it.
  • carguy38carguy38 Posts: 4
    I ran a check on the system of the car, and I've discovered that the EBCM (electronic brake control module) is what's causing the problem with the lights. The module costs around $600.00 but you might be able to go to a dealer and have the tech reprogram the module. Besides that the only other thing I can come up with is the wheel speed sensors, but that won't cause the red brake light to come on. So I hope this will help anyone out there with problems.
  • jenwjenw Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Grand Am SE and the service engine soon and trac off lights have been on for awhile now. I used a scanner on it and the only thing it told me was the engine was misfiring. I replaced the hubs because I thought the wheel sensors were bad. They weren't because the lights are still on. When the trac off light is on, the engine will rev up and down when I hit the brakes. I took it to a mechanic who did a full body scan and he told me the trac off light was from the body control module and I would have to replace it and have it reprogrammed. Everything I read stated the engine control module needed reprogrammed, nothing about the body control module? Does anyone know for sure which one really needs replaced and reprogrammed? Also, the service engine soon light was said to be a problem with the idle control motor and I needed to replace it. Can the problem with the ecm or bcm be the cause of the idle control motor? I hate to replace all the parts if only one is bad. Has anyone else experienced this? How hard is it to replace the modules? They are in the dash but I'm not sure how easy it will be get to them and replace them.

  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,652
    I wouldn't be at all sure the BCM would have anything to do with T/C light (other then perhaps haveing input to make it light). On other vehicles the T/C problem could be problem with connecter to speed sensor in wheel (either corrosion or broken wire)
  • kisbowlkisbowl Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen like you Jen, I changed the ignition module and it was fine after that.
  • roxp55roxp55 Posts: 3
    yes...actually my 2000 grand am (127,000 mi.) is in the shop now as I speak. Service engine soon, ABS, trac off, low trac, all came on the other day. They told me it usually is the ignition switch which I am having replaced, cost around $250 (part & labor). Besides that I have had no problems with my car. :)
  • stevew2stevew2 Posts: 3
    Roxp or Kisb,

    Did replacing the ignition switch work? I have replaced hubs and the abs computer. I would have never guessed the "ignition" switch. I'm wondering what the ignition switch would have to do with the traction control and abs.

    PLease write back and let me know if it was the ignition switch. thanks
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Make sure your gas tank cap is sealing properly. You'd be surprised to know how many service engine soon problems are caused by gas tank caps either not being tight, on crooked, or having a broken seal.
  • christihchristih Posts: 5
    Hi - Did you ever find a solution to this? After reading other posts, sounds like a common problem for these cars. I have a 2000 doing the same things. I am starting to get a lurching motion when the "trac off" light pops on. My main question is, I'm going out of town tomorrow - 230 miles out and back. Do you think it would be safe to drive?
  • christihchristih Posts: 5
    Hi - Did you ever find a solution to this? After reading other posts, sounds like a common problem for these cars. I have a 2000 doing the same things. I am starting to get a lurching motion when the "trac off" light pops on. My main question is, I'm going out of town tomorrow - 230 miles out and back. How long did yours last before you (hopefully) got it fixed? Do you think it would be safe to drive?
  • christihchristih Posts: 5
    I'm having the same problems. Does the ignition module have anything to do with the car starting? I've noticed that it starts a little rough sometimes - did you experience that along with the lights popping on?

  • joe318948joe318948 Posts: 3
    It seems that it is the SLRS fuse underneath the hood. It is a 15 amp fuse. i had to buy a 25 pack and replace them about every week or so. Luckly GM is buying this POS from me for an incident that happened with it.
  • stevew2stevew2 Posts: 3
    Rox, the ignition switch or the ignition module?
  • ginny13ginny13 Posts: 6
    i have the same problem and just like everyone else dont want to replace parts not needed.. id love to know if this fixes yours.. please reply..virginia ;)
  • ginny13ginny13 Posts: 6
    i got the Hazard module and the plugs and hubs replaced and havnet had anymore problems .. i do have to get a new gas cap cause the vapors are causing caos with the check engine light it makes it come on when it is not a securly fitting cap.. :)
  • ginny13ginny13 Posts: 6
    first module i replaced was only $69.oo that was the Hazard module,the hubs and plugs were just $40.00 and now i have to do the gas cap approx $6.00 I did mine one thing at a time and that way i could afford the fixes.. you dont have to do it all at once.. wish we could but have tight budget also so i definitly understand.. :)
  • As our Alero is very similar to the Grand-Am, I hoping someone on this site, may br able to help:-

    Our 3.4 2002 Alero (65,000 miles), has a problem with acceleration. It is very sluggish when accelerating, although after about a 5 mile run on the freeway, it improves, but is not perfect.It's now virtually impossible to drive safely, and on an incline, we are in trouble!

    About 10 days ago, we filled it up with gas from our usual gas station, and inserted a well known make of fuel-injector cleaner, which we use about every 3 months. Therefore, we thought it may be some dodgy gasoline. So, when it dropped to about 1/4 full, we filled up again, but it has made no difference. Now the 'Service Engine Soon' light is on, but is not flashing. I've checked the fuel cap, and that seems to be fine.
    Can anyone advise before I take it to my shop for yet more remedial work!

  • Turns out the repair shop guys ran a scan, and the catalytic converter was shot! Apparently, the average life for the 3.1, 3.4 & 3.8 liter engines is 71,000 miles. Total cost to repair was around $450! HOWEVER, the good news is, GM waranty these converters for 8 years or 80,000 miles; at least for our model (2002). So, if you have this problem, check with GM, to see if it is covered by their warranty.
  • I have a 96 grand am, In the past month my ABS and ETS off light is constantly on. Once in awhile when I go to pull out my low trac light will come on and be kinda sluggish when it is on and I am pulling out. I was told it was my ABS sensor, Does anyone know if this is the problem and if so what it looks like? And is it something you can replace yourself? My check engine light doesn't come on at all. I would appreciate any help ! Thanks
  • ok i am having pretty much the same problems that yall are experiencing but with a few variations -- my security light is constantly on since i had to do the 'reset' thing with my key is the on position for 10 min. (that went on for about 2 months) now my "trac off" "security" & "service engine soon" lights are all on and it shifts so hard out of 1st into 2nd and then gets a little bit beter with the more speed i pick up or not pressing the gas pedal when it shifts. The whole engine shifts and it feels like maybe a transmission mount is broke. i have had several mechanics look at it and they all claim in 1 form or another that its the security override protection system.... PLEASE HELP!!! (i saw where somebody mentioned a switch under the battery?
  • Here are my problems! Hopefully someone knows whats going on or has the same problem.

    My Trac Off light has been coming on quite frequently over the past couple of weeks. Usually if i would turn off my car and turn it back on again the light would go off. I noticed that when I am driving with the Trac Off light on my car kicks back when ever i accelerate.
    Yesterday my Service Engine Soon light and my Trac Off light came on at the same time. Again, whenever i accelerated my car would kick back. I pulled over and turned off my car and turned it back on a couple of seconds later and my car did a powerful kick back when i put it in Drive. That scared the crap out of me! After I left my car off for a about 10 minutes and turned my car back on, both lights turned off.
    Now the day after, both my lights are now on and they do not turn off. I still get that horrible kick back when i accelerate. BUT if my car has been turned off for a couple of hours it does not do the kick back when i put it in Drive.
    Another is the shaking my car does when I drive, it might mean that my tires need to be rebalanced. Does that sound right?
    My last problem is this rattling noise that sounds very very loud when i am braking or the first time i accelerate. The noise eventually fades away once i am driving (or so i think). I notice that when i have my car on and i put it in park, the noise quiets down. And it quiets down when I turn off my air.
    Ok that is the jist of it! Hopefully someone else can help me :)

    Any information would be greatly appreciated.

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